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K 



THE 



KEDGE-ANCHOR 



YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OF MODERN SEAMANSHIP, 
RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING, BLOCKS, PURCHASES, RUNNING- 
RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS, APPLI- 
CABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS. 



JlhtstraUir tmtl) Sromtg <£ngratriwj0. 



TABLES OP RIGGING, SPARS, SAILS, BLOCKS, CANVASS, CORDAGE, CHAIN AND HEMP 
CABLES, HAWSERS, &c, &a, RELATIVE TO EVERY CLASS OF VESSELS. 



BY WILLIAM BRADY, SAILING MASTER, U. S. N. 

n — 

SIXTH EDITION. 

IMPROVED AND ENLARGED, WITH ADDITIONAL MATTER, PLATES, AND TABLES. 



•N/>^%, ^VWW- 



NEW YORK : 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 

BOLD AT R. L. SHAW's NAUTICAL STORE, NO. 222 WATER ST., AND THE PRINCIPAL 
NAUTICAL AND STATIONERS' STORES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES. 

1852. 




Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847, 

By WILLIAM BRADY, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New Yoru 



DEDICATED 



TO THE 



UNITED STATES' NAVY 



AND 



MERCHANT SERVICE. 



PREFACE. 



In offering the following work to the public, the author deems no 
apology necessary, as it was written for the use of the Naval and Mer- 
chant Service of the United States, as a ready means of introducing 
Young Sailors to the theory of that art by which they must expect to 
advance in the profession they have chosen. He natters himself, how- 
ever, that it will be found useful to many old and experienced seamen, 
as well as to those who have just entered the sailors' life, and particu- 
larly to those destined for the Navy. Should it fall into the hands of 
the learned, they will bear in mind that he is better versed with the 
marlinespike than the pen, and that it was composed in the hours of 
relaxation from official duties. He therefore hopes that it may be 
received for that which it is intended to be, A Kedge- Anchor, for the 
youthful sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspection of a 
number of experienced officers, both in the Navy and Merchant Ser- 
vice, who have given it their decided approbation ; — some of whose 
names are appended to the work. With these few remarks, he submits 
it to a discerning public, to stand or fall on its own merits. 




RECOMMENDATIONS. 



1 have examined the manuscript of Mr. Brady and approve of it, as 
a very useful Book for young officers and others, in the Naval and 
Merchant service. 

JOHN GALLAGHER, Captain U. S. Navy. 

1 fully concur in the above. 

E. PECK, Commander U. S. Navy. 

I have examined the within treatise on Seamanship, and other mis- 
cellaneous matter appertaining to ships and vessels of war (written by 
William Brady, Master U. S. Navy). It affords me much pleasure to 
recommend the same to the junior officers of the Navy, and others who 
may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship. 

TV. C. WETMORE, Commander U. S. Navy. 

Examined and approved as a work that will be useful to the Service. 
J. D. L. SAUNDERS, Commander U. S. Navy. 
J. MATTISON, Commander U. S. Navy. 

This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well calculated to be use- 
ful to the Service. 

JOSHUA R. SANDS, Commander U. S. Navy. 

I have closely examined the within work, and think it well calcu- 
lated for the instruction of young officers and others in the Navy. 

JAMES RENSHAW, Captain U. S. Navy. 

I fully concur in the above. 

FRANCIS 0. ELLISON, Master U. S. Navy. 



8 RECOMMENDATIONS. 

I have carefully examined the within work on Seamanship, and 
think it one well calculated for the instruction of young officers, and 
others. C. G-. HUNTER, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. 



We cheerfully recommend this work of William Brady, S. Master 
U. S. Navy, to the maritime community, and think it well calculated 
for the instruction of all who may be disposed to learn the profession 
of Seamanship. 

ISAAC McKEEVER, Captain U. S. Navy. 

JAMES McINTOSH, Commander U. S. Navy. 

WILLIAM L. HUDSON, " " 

HENRY EAGLE, 

A. G. GORDON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. 

CADWALDER RINGGOLD, " " 

WILLIAM F. LYNCH, 

HENRY W. MORRIS, 

FRANCIS B. ELLISON, 

JAMES H. ROWAN, 

JOHN COLHOUN, 

T. TURNER, 

T. A. HUNT, 

HENRY MOORE, 

JOHN J. GLASSON, 

CHARLES HEYWOOD, 

CHARLES S. BOGGS, 

ALEXANDER GIBSON, 

ALEXANDER M. PENNOCK, 

MONTGOMERY HUNT, 

FRANCIS HAGGERTY, 

J. R. McMULLANY, 

Capt. HENRY D. HUNTER, Commanding U. S. Rev. Steamer Polk. 

JOHN McGOWAN, 1st Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 

WILLIAM H. BROWN, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 

JOSEPH C. NOYES, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. 
Capt. E. RICHARDSON, President American Seamen Friend Society. 
" AUGUSTUS PROAL, Reviewer of the Work. 

Capt. SAMUEL YEATON, Commanding Packet ship Oxford. 

" D. G. BAILEY, " " Yorkshire. 

" GEORGE B. CORNISH, " " Sheridan. 

" E. G. FURBER, « '< Europe. 

" A. B. LOWBER, " " Montezuma. 

" J. A. WOTTEN, " " Admiral. 

" JOSEPH HAMILTON, Commanding Packet ship So. Carolina. 

' CHARLES R. GRIFFITH, Commanding Ship Southport. 

" JAMES RENNE, " " Gondola. 

" IRA BURSLEY, " « Hottenger. 

" GEORGE W. HOWE, Commanding Packet ship Bavaria. 



CONTENTS. 



PART L 



Number. Page. 

1. To knot a Rope-Yarn, - - 21 

2. To make a Fox, 21 

3. To make a Spanish Fox, --------21 

4. To make a Knittle, 22 

5. Overhanded Knot, ---------22 

6. Figure of Eight-Knot, 22 

7. Two Half-Hitches, - 22 

8. Reef or Square Knot, 22 

9. A Bowline Knot, -.. 22 

10. Bowline on the Bight, ----23 

11. A Running Bowline, ---------23 

12. A Timber-Hitch, 23 

13. A Fisherman's Bend, 23 

14. A Rolling Bend, 23 

15. A Carrick Bend, ---------23 

16. A Cat's-Paw, 24 

17. A Sheet or Becket Bend, 24 

18. A Black- Wall Hitch, 24 

19. A Rolling Hitch, 25 

20. A Salvagee Strap, 25 

21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard, 25 

22. A Short Splice, 25 

23. A Long Splice, 26 

24. An Eye Splice, 26 

25. A Cut Splice, 27 

26. A Flemish Eye, 27 

27. An Artificial Eye, 27 

28. To worm and serve a Rope, -------27 

29. To clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing, - - - - 28 

30. To make a Turk's Head, 28 

31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay, ------ 29 

32. To put a Strand in a Rope, -------29 

33. To Wall and Crown, 29 

34. To make a Mathew Walker, - - - - - - -29 

35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot, 30 

36. A Shroud-Knot, 30 

37. A French Shroud Knot, - -30 

38. A single Diamond Knot, - - - - - - - -30 

39. A double Diamond Knot, - - -- - - - -31 

40. A Stopper Knot 31 



10 CONTENTS. 

Number. Page. 

41. A Buoy-rope Knot, --------- 31 

42. A Common Sennit, ---------31 

43. A Sea Gasket, 31 

44. A Panch or Wrought Mat, ------- 32 

45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit, ----- 32 

46. Pointing a Rope, ---------32 

47. To make a Grommet, --------- -33 

48. To pass a Rose-Lashing, - - - -- - - -33 

49. To weave a Sword Mat, 33 

50. A Lashing Cleat, ---------34 

51. A Shell, Pin and Sheave, ---34 

52. A Single, Double and Treble Block, ------ 34 

53. A Shoulder Block, - - -34 

54. A Fiddle Block, - 35 

55. A Shoe Block, -35 

56. A Sister Block, ---- 35 

57. A Dead-Eye, 35 

58. A Heart, ----36 

59. A Belaying-pin Rack, - - - - - - - -36 

60. A Euphroe, -36 

61. A Horn Cleat, - - - - 36 

62. A B-Cleat, - - - - - - - ' - - - -36 

63. A Strap for a Block, - - 36 

64. A Tail Block, - - - - - - - - - -37 

65. A Purchase Block, _ _ _ _ 37 

66. A Top Block, - - 37 

67. A Cat Block, - - - - - 38 

68. A Snatch Block, -38 

69. A Nun Buoy, -- 38 

70. To bend a Buoy-Rope, , - - -38 

71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor, 39 

72. A Jacob's Ladder, - - - - - - - --39 

73. Can-Hooks, - 40 

74. Hogshead Slings, - - - - - - - - -40 

75. Barrel Slings. - - 40 

76. A Single Whip, ---_ 40 

77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase, 41 

78. A Luff-Tackle Purchase, 41 

79. A Top Burton, - ----41 

80. Whip and Runner, --- -----41 

81. Runner and Tackle, ---------41 

82. A Twofold Purchase, 41 

83. A Threefold Purchase, --------42 

84. Names of Ropes, ---------42 



PART II. 



85. Launching a Ship, - - - - - - - - -13 

86. Cutting out Standing Rigging, -------44 

87. " " Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging, - - - - 45 

88. " ' : Breast and Standing Back-stays, - - - - 45 

89. " " Catharpen Legs and Futtock Shrouds, - 46 

90. " " Fore and Aft Stays, 46 

91. " " Lower Mast Head Pendants, 46 

92. « " Bobstays, - - 46 



CONTENTS. 11 

Number. Page. 

93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds, -------47 

94. " " Jib and Flying Jib Guys, 47 

95. " " Running Rigging, -------47 

96. Rigging Shears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit, - 47 

97. To take in the Mizen Mast, 50 

98. " " Main and Foremast, - - - - - -51 

99. " « Bowsprit, 51 

100. Gammoning the Bowsprit, - - - . - - - - -52 

101. Fitting Rigging, ----53 

102. " Mast-head Pendants, -------54 

103. " Lower and Topmast Stays, 54 

104. To Rig the Foremast, 55 

105. Futtock Shrouds, - 57 

106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast, 58 

107. " « " Bowsprit, 58 

108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops,) - - - . - - - 59 

109. " Half-tops over, 60 

110. " up Top-blocks, 61 

111. « " Top-masts, - - 61 

112. " the Cap into the Top, 62 

113. Turning in Dead-eyes, --------63 

114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over, ------ 64 

115. Placing Topmast Rigging, ------- 65 

116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks, ------- 65 

117. Backstays (Breast), ---------66 

118. Standing After Backstays, --------67 

119. Main Topmast Stay, -' 67 

120. Mizen ".., « - .- - 67 

121. Getting the Topmast Caps on, - - - - - - - 68 

122.. Mast-head Man-ropes. &c, &c, -------68 

123. Top-Tackle Pendants^ - - 69 

124. Preparing to Fid the Topmasts, - - - -.- - -69 

125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging, - - - - 70 

126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging, ------ 71 

127. To Rig the Jib-Boom, - - 71 

128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay, 72 

129. Jib-Boom Guys, - - - - - 72 

130. Martingale Back-ropes, -- 73 

131. Placing the Ringing on a Dolphin Striker, - - - - 73 

132. Getting the Jib-Boom out, 73 

133. Sending up Topgallant Masts, - - - - - - - 74 

134. Royal Rigging, ----------75 

135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes, ----- 76 

136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom, - 76 

137. Spritsail Lifts, - - - 77 

138. Spritsail Braces, ----------77 

139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard, - - - 77 

140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard, -------- 78 

141. Two Half-spritsail Yards, - 78 

142. Whiskers, - - - 79 

143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards, ----- 79 

144. Truss Straps, 80 

145. Truss Pendants, 80 

146. Quarter Blocks — Lower Yards, -------80 

147. Clew Garnet Blocks, --------- 81 

148. Lift Blocks— Lower Yards, 81 

149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups, --------81 

150. Jack Stays— Bending and Reefing, 82 



12 CONTENTS. 

Number. Page. 

151. Brace Blocks— Lower Yards, 82 

152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards, ----- 83 

153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers, 84 

154. Lower Lift Blocks. --84 

155. Reeving Lower Lifts, --------85 

156. Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c, -------85 

157. Fore Braces, ----------85 

158. Crossing the Lower Yards, -------86 

159. To get on board the Topsail Yards, 86 

160. Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main, ----- 86 

161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard, - - - - - - - 88 

162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards, - - - - 88 

163. Crossing the Topsail Yards, -------88 

164. Fitting Fly-Blocks for Topsail-Halliards, - - - - - 89 

165. Rigging Topgallant Yards, -------90 

166. Topgallant Braces, - - 91 

167. Crossing Topgallant Yards, 92 

168. « Royal Yards, - - - 93 

169. Royal and Topgallant Gear, 94 

170. Spanker-Boom, Trysail-Masts and Gaff, ----- 94 

171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one, ----- 95 

172. Spanker-Boom Topping Lifts, 95 

173. A Brig or Schooner's Main-Boom, 96 

174. Reeving Peak-Halliards, 96 

175. « Throat-Halliards, - - ■ 96 

176. To Fit Single Vangs, 96 

177. " « Double « 97 

178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks, 97 

179. Getting up a Gaff, - - - 97 

180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms, - - 98 

181. « « « Outhaul-Blocks, &c, &c, - 99 

182. Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c, - - 100 

183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms, ------ 101 

184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up, - 101 

185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear, ------ 102 

186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks), - - 103 

187. « Casks, --------- 104 

188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores, - 104 

189. Stowing Chain Cables. - - - 105 

190. To get on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables, - - - 105 

191. Cat-head Stoppers, - - - 106 

192. Shank Painter, ----- 106 

193. Fish Davit Gear, 106 

194. Getting on Board and Stowing Anchors, ----- 10S 

195. Bending the Cables, - 109 

196. To Range and Stopper the Cables, 109 

197. Stoppers, &c, - - - - 110 

198.. Compressors, or Combing Stoppers, ----- 110 

199. Putting on Nippers, - Ill 

200. Iron Claw Stoppers, &c, - Ill 

201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger, ------ 112 

202. Splicing Rope Cables, 112 

203. To Ship and Unship a Rudder, 113 

204. Getting the Guns on Board, - 114 

205. Fitting Shackle Breechings, - - - - - - -116 

206. Triatic Stay, ----- 116 

207. Hoisting in Spars, - - 117 

208. Stowing Booms. - - 117 



CONTENTS. 13 
PART III. 

Number. Page, 

209. Fore Bowlines, 119 

210. Fore Topsail Cle lines, - 119 

211. Topsail Buntlines, 120 

212. Fore-Top Bowlines, - - - - 120 

213. Main Buntlines, - 120 

214. Fore Buntlines, - 12] 

215. Main Bowline. ----------121 

216. Top-Gallant Sheets, 121 

217. Top-Gallant Clewlines, 122 

218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines, 122 

219. Main Topgallant Bowlines, 122 

220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines, 122 

221. Topgallant Buntlines, - - - 123 

222. Royal Bowlines, - 123 

223. Reef-Tackles, 123 

224. Leech-lines, 124 

225. Slab-lines, - 124 

226. Royal Clew-lines, 124 

227. Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c, - - - - 125 

228. Yard-Tackle Tricing-lines, - 125 

229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards, 125 

230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear, 126 

231. Main-Staysail Gear, - - ' - 127 

232. Mizen-Staysail Gear, 127 

233. Topmast Staysails, &c. &c, 128 

234. Setting up Rigging for a full due, ------ 129 

235. Staying Masts, 130 

236. Blacking Rigging, 130 

237. Stationing the Crew, 131 

238. Stationing the Crew at Quarters, - 132 

239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring, - - - 133 

240. Loosing and Furling, - - - - - - - -133 

241. Stationing the Crew for Tacking and Veering, - - - 134 

242. Getting ready to Bend Sails, - 134 

243. Bending Sails, 135 

244. Bending Small-sails, 136 

245. Bending a Spanker, &c, -------- 137 

246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets, 138 

247. Fitting Harbor-Gaskets, 138 

248. Bunt-Gaskets, 139 

249. Hammock Girtlines, 139 

250. Stopping on Hammocks, -------- 140 

251. Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail, 140 

252. Furling Courses, 140 

253. Making up Sails, ---------- 141 

254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail, ----- 142 

255. Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers, - - 142 

256. Reefing Courses, &c, — Jackstays, ------ 143 

257. Reef Earings, - 143 

258. Bending Studding-sails, -------- 144 

259. Preparations for leaving the Wharf, and hauling out in the Stream, 145 

260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat, ----- 146 

261. Marking the Lead-line, 146 

262. Heaving the Lead, 147 

263. Marking a Log-line, -------- 148 

264. Getting ready for Sea, 148 

265. Clear Hawse, 149 



14 CONTENTS. 

Number. Page. 

266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch, ----- 150 

267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope, - - - - -151 

268. Boating an Anchor, --------- 152 

269. Taking in a Launch, -------- 152 

270. Taking in Boats both sides at once, - - - - -153 



PART IV. 



271. Getting under-weigh, -- - - - - - - - - 154 

272. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part, - - - 155 

273. To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind, - 156 

274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger, - - 157 

275. Getting under-weigh — a Shoal on each Beam, - - - - 157 

276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel, - 158 

277. Head to Wind— cast on Larboard Tack, 159 

278. Windward Tide — get under-weigh and stand before the wind, 159 

279. To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind, - 160 

280. Riding head to Tide — wind on the Starboard Quarter, get 

under-weigh on the Starboard Tack, - - - - - 161 

281. Getting under-weigh — wind across the Tide, - - - - 161 

282. To back and fill in a Tideway, 162 

283. Driving before the Wind, 162 

284. Driving broadside-to, _------- 163 

285. Securing the Ship for Sea, 163 

286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea, 163 

287. Setting Topgallant sails — blowing fresh, ----- 164 

288. Setting Courses, '- - -164 

289. Setting the Spanker. 165 

290. Setting the Jib, - - 165 

291. Setting Lower Studding-sails, ------- 166 

292. Shifting a Course at Sea, 166 

293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind, 167 

294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind, - - - - - 167 

295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail, ------- 168 

296. Taking in a Spanker, 168 

297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail, - 168 

298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits, 168 

299. A Jib Splits, 169 

300. Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and 

Storm-staysail, --------- 169 

301. Wearing under a Main-sail, - - - - * - - - 170 

302. Wearing under Bare Poles, __.---- 170 

303. Cutting away the Masts, - - 170 

304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails— Wear Ship, - - - 170 



PART V. 



305. Precautions for Scudding, -------- 171 

306. Scudding — a Ship Broaches-to, ------ 172 

307. Scudding — brought by the Lee, ------ 172 

308. Heaving-to, - - 17 j2 

309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail— blowing fresh, - - - 173 

310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind, 174 

311. Securing in a Gale, - ™ 

312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea, - - - - 175 



CONTENTS. . 15 

Number. Page. 

313. Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on 

Barometer, ---------- 175 

314. The Foremast is carried away, ___--- 178 

315. To Rig a Jury Mast, -------- 178 

316. Accidents to Tiller in the event of losing a Mast, - 178 

317. The Mainmast is carried away, ------ 179 

318. The Bowsprit is carried away, ------- 179 

319. A Topmast is carried away, ------- 179 

320. The Jib-Boom is carried away, ------ 179 

321. The Foremast is sprang near the Hounds, or Bibbs, - - 180 

322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away, - 180 

323. The Bowsprit is Sprang, --------180 

324. A Topmast is Sprang near the Lower Cap, - - - - 181 

325. To send aloft a Topmast, and a heavy Sea on, - - - 181 

326. The Gammoning carried away, ------ 181 

327. A Lower Cap splits, - - - - - 181 

328. The Trestle-trees are Sprang, - 182 

329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings, - - - - 182 

330. A Topsail Yard is carried away, ------ 182 

331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her, - - - 183 

332. The Pumps are choked, - - 183 

333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale, - 183 

334. To throw a Lower-deck Gim overboard, ----- 184 



PART VI. 

335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses, - 185 

336. The Rudder is carried away — to fit another, - - - - 185 

337. A Ship on fire at Sea, - - - 186 

338. A Ship on her beam ends, ------- 187 

339. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall, - - - - 187 

340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, ----- 187 

341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses, - - 188 

342. On a wind under whole Topsails — part the weather Main Top- 

sail brace, _____ 188 

343. The Jib Downhaul parts, ------- 188 

344. To Chase, -- 188 

345. To Chase to Windward, 189 

346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased, - - 189 

347. To Chase to Leeward, ------ - 190 

348. To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot — the weather main 

rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to 

the mast, -----____ 190 

349. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set — bring by under double-reefed 

Topsails, ------_--_ 191 

350. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set — bring to on the other Tack, 

under double-reefed Topsails, ------ 191 

351. How to get the Anchor off the Bows, - - - - - 191 

352. Anchor head to wind, wind free, ------ 192 

353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore, ------- 192 

354. Scudding under a Foresail — to come to an Anchor, - - - 193 

355. To make a Flying moor, -------- 193 

356. To Moor with a long scope of chain, ----- 194 

357. Blowing Fresh — in Port, -------- 194 

358. Send down Lower Yards, ------- 194 

359. To House Topmasts, -------- 195 



16 . CONTENTS. 



Number. 



Page. 

360. To back a Bower by a Stream, ---_-_ 195 

361. To Sweep for an Anchor, ----_-_ 195 

362. Preparations for leaving Harbor, ----__ 195 

363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea, ------ 196 

364. Casting or Cutting the Cable, ------- 195 

365. Clinching Cables, --------- 197 

366. Fitting Buoy-Ropes, - -------- 197 

367. Jib-Halliards, with a Whip, ------- 197 

368. Jib-Sheets, double, --------- 195 

369. Wrecked in a Gale, --------- 198 

370. Setting up Rigging at Sea, - - - - - - - 199 

371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather, ----- 200 

372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes, ----- 200 

373. Preventer Braces, --------- 200 

374. Keeping a Clear Anchor, -------- 201 

375. Anchor turning in the ground, ---___ 201 

376. To tend to a weather Tide, - 201 

377. A Man overboard (at sea), - 202 

378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head, - 203 

379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored, - - - - - 203 

380. To tend to Windward — single Anchor, ----- 203 

381. To tend to Leeward, ------- 203 

382. To Back Ship at Anchor, 204 

383. To break the Shear, -204 

384. On Getting to Sea, - 204 

385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service, - 205 

386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service, - - - - 207 

387. Taking to the Boats, - - - - - __— - -208 

388. Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c, - - - - 209 

389. Steamers getting aground, ------- 209 

390. The duty of remaining by a damaged Vessel, - 210 



PART VII. 



391. On Squaring Yards, - - - 213 

392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards — the Mast being on deck, - 214 

393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards, ------ 215 

394. Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails, - 216 

395. Top-Mast carried away, - - - - - - - -217 

396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast, - 218 

397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom, ------- 218 

398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time, - - - - 218 

399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast, - - - - - 219 

400. Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts, - - - - 219 

401. Spars to convert in case of need, ------ 219 

402. Getting aground, - - - - - - - - - 2f.O 

403. The Ballast shifting at Sea, 221 

404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks. - - - 7 - 221 

405. Meeting at Sea, - - - - 222 

406. A Hint on Running too Long, ------- 222 

407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale, ------ 223 

408. On Making your Port, --------223 

409. Laying off and on to enter a port, ------ 223 

410. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable, - - - - 224 

411. Preparations — Going into Harbor. ------ 224 

412. Cautions at Night, (Lookouts), - 224 



CONTENTS. 17 

Number. Page. 

413. Two Vessels in Collision, 225 

414. Squalls, (Caution), - 225 

415. Water Spouts, (Caution,) - - 225 

416. Pressure of Water at different depths, ----- 226 

417. On Stopping Leaks, - - 226 

418. Examination of Chain Cables, - 227 

419. Minute Guns, ---------- 227 

420. Hoisting on Board Money or Plate, ------ 228 



PART VIII. 



421. Stowing Hammocks, - -------- 229 

422. Cockbilling Yards, - 230 

423. Dressing Ship with Flags, 230 

424. Keeping the Copper clean, - - - - - - -231 

425. Furling from a Bowline, -------- 232 

426. High and Low Bunts. - 233 

427. To Clear Mast-heads,' 233 

428. Placing belaying-cleats in Tops, ------ 234 

429. Making Swabs, 234 

430. Stowage of Swabs, - - - - - - - - - 235 

431. Junk, ----------- 235 

432. Making Mats, and Chafing Gear, ------ 235 

433. Gaskets, ----------- 236 

434. Scraping and Greasing Mats, ------- 237 

435. Manning Yards, 237 

436. Man Ropes— (side) 238 

437. Spare Dead-eyes, 238 

438. Hide Rope, 239 

439. Hawse-hole Windsail, 239 

440. Fighting Ladders, __--239 

441. Hawse Bucklers, --__ 239 

442. Making-fast a Warp to a Vessel, ------ 240 

443. Fitting Quarter Boats' Gripes, - - 240 

444. Fitting Gigs' Slings, - 240 

445. Scrubbing a Boat's bottom on leaving Harbor, - - - - 241 

446. Carrying Light Boats on Shore, ------ 241 

447. Miscellaneous Notes on Working Boats, ----- 242 

448. Duties of Boats' Crews, - - - 243 

449. Boats going on Distant Service, -_._-- 243 

450. Boats under Sail. - 244 

451. Giving a rope to a Boat, -------- 244 

452. Crossing a Bar with Surf— in Boats, ----- 245 

453. Hauling up Boats, --------- 246 

454. Lowering Boats, ---____-_ 246 

455. Turning up the Hands, - -- - - - - - 246 

456. Inspection of Rigging, Morning and Evening, - - - - 247 

457. Inspection of Stowed Anchors, at Sea, ----- 247 

458. Inspection of Boats at Sea, _--_._- 248 

459. Gammoning the Bowsprit, -___„-- 248 

460. Precaution in Reeving Running-rigging, - 249 

461. Topsail Tyes, - - 249 

462. Precaution in Blacking Rigging, -____- 250 

463. Fore and Main BuntlTnes, - 250 

464. Topgallant Mast Ropes, -------- 250 

465. Futtock Shrouds, - ' 251 

2 



18 CONTENTS. 

Number. Page. 

466. Tops and Half-Tops, - 251 

467. Striking or Housing Topmasts, - - - - - -251 

468. Swaying up Topmasts, -------- 252 

469. Unmooring, --- 252 

470. Reef-lines to the Topsails, ------- 253 

471. Reefing Courses, -- 253 

472. Topgallant-Masts struck, --_ 254 

473. Hailing aloft, - - 254 

474. Proportions for Cables (Hemp), ------ 254 

475. " . for Anchors, -------- 254 

476. What length is necessary to form a Clinch, - - - - 255 

477. References to Sketch of Temporary Rudder, - - - - 255 

478. To Splice an Old Cable to a new one, 255 

479. Strip Ship, ---------- 256 

480. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, Length of Spars, &c. 256 

481. Thickness of Spars (Masts), ------- 257 

482. Yards, - - 257 

483. Distance for Placing Lower Masts, ------ 257 

484. Rule for Placing Masts in a Ship, ------ 257 

485. Raising Shears on a Wharf, ------- 258 

486. To find the Tonnage of a Vessel by U. S. Measurement, - - 259 

487. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts, ----- 259 

488. Mooring, - 260 



PART IX. 



489. Preparations for Heaving-down, ------ 261 

490. A Derrick, 269 

General Cautions, --------- 270 



PART X. 
491. Explanation of Sea Terms, 273 



PART XI. 

492. A table showing the weight of Cables and Anchors, used in 

ships and vessels of war, in the U. S. Navy, - 290 

493. A table showing the weight of Guns and Carriages, - - 291 

494. « " " Chain Cables, - - - - 292 

495. " " how many fathoms make 112 pounds of four- 

strand shroud-laid rope, ------- 292 

496. Weight of one foot of Bar Iron, ------ 293 

497. A Table showing the weight of one hundred fathoms cable- 

laid rope, from two to twenty-six inches, - 293 
468. A Table showing the strength of hemp-cables, their weight, 

size, and number of yarns in each, ----- 294 

499. A Table showing the strength of plain-laid rope, three strand, 295 

500. " " " chain cable, as tested in 
fifteen fathom lengths, ------- 296 



CONTENTS. 19 

Number. Page. 

501. A Table showing the strength of short round-linked Bobstay, 

Bowsprit shroud, or crane-chain without studs, such as is 

used for rigging, &c. -------- 297 

502. Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned state, - 298 

503. A Table of measures and weights of different substances, - 298 

504. A Table of weight of tarred Cordage, ----- 299 

505. A Table showing the comparative strength between Iron 

Chains and Hemp Cables, and the size required agree- 
ably to the Tonnage, ------- 299 

506. A Table showing the test required of flax and cotton Canvass, 

as to quality and strength, before being received for use, in 

the U. S. Naval service, ------- 300 

507. Cordage Table, showing the weight of one fathom of rope, 

from one to twenty-four inches, plain-laid three strands, &c. 301 

508. A Table showing the length of 1st warp of Standing Rigging, 302 

509. A Table of Foreign Ordnance, - - - - - - 303 

510. A Table showing the quantity of provisions, slop-clothing, 

and small stores, for two hundred men for four months, 

U. S. Navy, --------- 304 

511. A Table showing the component parts of the Navy ration, - 305 

512. A Table for finding the distance of an object by two bearings, 

and the distance between them, ------ 308 

513. Dimensions of masts and spars, of the U. S. ship Princeton, - 309 

514. A Table of the size of short-linked chain, when used as rigging, 310 

515. A Table showing the dimensions of the masts and yards, of 

American, English, and French ships, - 312 

516. A Table showing the compliment of Officers and Crew, allow- 

ed to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, - - - - 314 

517. A Table of spars, &c, for all classes of vessels, - 318 

518. A Table showing the dimensions and quality of materials, 

used in constructing tops, trestle-trees, cross-trees, and 
caps, in U. S. Navy, -------- 324 

519. A Table showing the complement and quality of Boats to each 

class vessel in U. S. Navy, -_-___ 326 

520. A Table showing the weight, size, length and quality, of an- 

chors, cables, &c, allowed to the different class vessels in 

U. S. Navy, --------- 328 

521. A Table showing the size, quantity, quality, and number of 

sails, allowed to each class vessel U. S. Navy, - - - 332 

522. A Table showing the quantity of canvass, rope, &c, allowed 

for one suit of sails, for each class of vessel U. S. Navy, - 336 

523. A Table showing the length and size of standing and running- 

rigging, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, with mis- 
cellaneous articles, -------- 340 

524. A Table showing the size, and description, of the different 

named Blocks, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, - 364 

525. A Table showing the projective distances from the spar-deck 

of U. S. Ship North Carolina, ------ 384 

526. A Table showing the weight of armament, stores, outfits and 

provisions, of U. S. sloop of war Albany - 386 

527. Recipe for blacking Ships' standing-rigging, - 389 

528. do for blacking guns, -------- 339 

529. do for blacking hammock-cloths, yards, and bends, - - 389 

530. " for making Liquod Blacking, ------ 390 

531. " for blacking guns, 2nd., - • 390 

532. " Composition for blacking guns, ----- 390 

533. " for making Black Varnish, No. 1, - - - - - 390 

534. for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths, No. 1, 390 



20 CONTENTS. 

Number. Page 

535. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock 

cloths No. 2, - - - - , 391 

536. « " « « « No. 3. 391 

537. « « « " « No. 4, 391 

538. " for making Black Varnish, No. 2, - - - - - 391 

539. " for making Solder for Copper, ----- 391 

540. « « " for Lead, - - - - - - - 392 

541. " To make the best drying Oil, ----- 392 

542. « for Black Stain, - 392 

543. " for blacking Guns and Shot, - - - - - 392 

544. French Recipe for blacking Guns, - - - - - - 393 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR. 



We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn . 

1.— TO KNOT ROPE-YARNS. 

Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about 
two inches from the end ; and if to make a smooth knot, you 
may scrape down a little with a knife, so as to make the ends 
lay smooth ; you then crutch them together as you see in Plate 
No. 1. Take two opposite ends (leaving the other two dormant), 
pass one of the ends under, and the other over the standing part 
of the yarn, connecting them together at the same side you took 
them from at first ; then jam your knot taut, and see if it will 
stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and hauling 
on it ; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and 
go on. 



2.— TO MAKE A FOX. 

Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belay- 
ing-pin ; stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your 
knee ; then rub it down smooth with a piece of old tarred par- 
celling. This is called a Fox, and is used for many purposes, 
such as making gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bend- 
ing studding-sails, &c. 



3.— TO MAKE A SPANISH FOX. 

Take a single rope-yam and make one end fast as before to a 
belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, 
and rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c. 



22 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



4.— TO MAKE A KNITTLE. 

A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up together 
by hand, twisting them between the thumb and finger, and lay- 
ing them up against the twist of the yarn. They are used for 
many purposes on board a ship, particularly for hammock clews. 



5.— OVERHANDED KNOT. 

To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope 
over the standing part and through the bight. 



6.— FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOTS. 

Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its 
own part and through the lower bight, and your knot is made. 



7._TW0 HALF-HITCHES. 

Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring 
it up through the bight — this is one half-hitch ; two of these, 
one above the other, completes it fc 



8.— REEF, OR SQUARE KNOT. 

First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or any- 
thing you please ; then bring the end being next to you over the 
left hand and through the bight ; haul both ends taut, and it is 
made. 



9.— A BOWLINE KNOT. 

Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing 
part in the left — lay the end over the standing part, then with 
your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end 
part, so as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part ; then 
lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down 
through the cuckold's neck, and it will appear as in the Plate. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 23 



lO.— BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT. 

Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the stand- 
ing part in the other ; throw a cuckold's neck over the bight with 
the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the 
cuckold's neck to go under and over all parts ; jam all taut, and 
it will appear as in the Plate. 



11.— A RUNNING BOWLINE. 

Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through 
the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part, 
and the knot is made. 



12— A TIMBER HITCH. 

Take the end of a rope round a spar ; pass it under and over 
the standing part then pass several turns round its own part 
and it is done. 



13.— A FISHERMAN'S BEND. 

With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or 
through the ring of a kedge-anchor ; take one half hitch around 
the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns ; then one 
half hitch around the standing part above all, and stop the end 
to the standing part ; or you can dispense with the last half 
hitch, and tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it be- 
comes a studding-sail bend. 



14.— A ROLLING BEND. 

A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman's bend. It 
is two round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half 
hitches around the standing part, and the end stopped back. — 
{See Plate.) 



15.— A CARRICK BEND. 

This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for 
*ny other purpose. In forming this bend you will take the end 



24 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

of the hawser, and form a bight, by laying the end part on the 
top of the standing part, so as to form a cross ; take the end of 
the other hawser, and reeve it down through this bight, up and 
over this cross ; then pass the end down through the bight again 
on the opposite side, from the other end, for one end must be on 
the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the plate. 

If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny's 
knot. {Remember this.) 



16.— A CAT'S PAW. 

This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the 
tackle to, in setting up rigging ; to form it, you first lay the end 
part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a 
bight ; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side ot 
it, breaking it down, and turning it ovevfrom you two or three 
times ; clap both bights together, and hook on to both parts. — 
{See Plate.) 



17.— A SHEET OR BECKET BEND. 

Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or 
through the becket of a block ; then round both parts of the bight, 
or becket, and take the end under its own part, as you see in 
the plate. It is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped 
back to the standing part. 



18.— A BLACK-WALL HITCH. 

This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a 
luff tackle to, instead of a cat's paw, where the end of the lan- 
yard is not long enough to form a paw ; but a strap and toggle is 
preferable to both. 

To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather 
a kink with the end of the lanyard, having the end part under- 
neath, and the standing part on the top ; stick the hook through 
the bight, keeping the bight well up on the back of the hook (as 
you see in the plate), until you set taut the tackle. 

Note. — You can learn it much better by practice than expla- 
nation. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 25 

19.— A ROLLING HITCH. 

With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the stand- 
ing part ; then take another through the same bight, jaming it 
in above the first hitch and the upper part of the bight, then haul 
it taut, and dog your end above the hitch, around the stand- 
ing part, or you may take a half-hitch around the standing part 
and stop the end back with a yarn. 



20.— A SALVAGEE STRAP. 

To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike 
nails, and drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever 
you can find convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, 
lash them to any convenient place, as far apart as the length 
you intend to make the strap ; take the end of the ball of rope- 
yarns, and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take 
it round the other one, and keep passing the rope-yarn round and 
round in this manner, hauling every turn taut as you pass it, 
until it is as stout as you wish it to be. 

If it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun- 
yarn ; if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns ; if a 
small strap, a single rope-yarn. 



21.— A PUDDING FOR A MAST OR YARD. 

Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye 
in each end ; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it accord- 
ing to the shape you want it. They are generally made as you 
see in the Plate, large in the middle, tapering gradually toward 
the ends, and made flat on the side that goes next the yard or 
mast. When you have got it the size required, mail it down, 
commencing in the middle and marling both ways until you 
come to the eye ; if it is intended for a yard it is generally covered 
with thick leather or green hide ; if for a mast, it is pointed over 
for neatness. 



22.— A SHORT SPLICE. 

•To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the 
rope to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see 
in the plate ; you must then lay hold of the three strands next 
to you in your left hand, holding them solid around the other 
part until you stick the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope. 



26 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

you may stop the ends with a yarn ; then take the upper or mid- 
dle end, pass it over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath 
the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope ; turn 
the rope a little towards you, and stick the second end as you 
did the first ; the third in the same manner, hauling them taut 
along the lay of the rope ; — turn the rope round, stick the other 
three ends in the same manner, and it will appear as in the 
plate. 

Note. — If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick 
them but once ; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross- 
whip them across the strands so as to make them more secure. 
If the ends are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, 
enough to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or 
trim the outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving. 



23.— A LONG SPLICE. 

To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a suffi- 
cient length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short 
splice ; unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up 
the space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it ; then 
turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that 
will come opposite their respective lays, unlay one and fill up 
with the other as before ; then cut off the long strands, and it will 
appear as in the Plate. 

To complete this splice, you will split the strands equally in 
two, then take the two opposite half strands and knot them 
together, so as to fill up the vacant lay ; then you stick the ends 
twice under two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving 
the other six neutral ; then stretch the splice well before you cut 
the ends off, and it is finished. 



24.— EYE-SPLICE. 

An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying 
the strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, 
according to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make ; you 
then divide your strands by putting one strand on the top and 
one underneath the standing part, then take the middle strand, 
(having previously opened the lay with a marlinespike,) and 
stick it under its respective strand, as you see in the Plate. Your 
next end is taken over the first strand and under the second ; the 
third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other 
side. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 27 



25.— A CUT SPLICE. 

Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you intend to make 
the splice or collar — lay the end of one rope on the standing part 
of the other, and stick the end through between the strands, in 
the same manner as an eye-spike, and it will appear as in the 
plate. This forms a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for 
pendants, jib-guys, breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c. 



20.— A FLEMISH EYE. 

Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every 
yarn, divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood 
the size you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half 
of the inside yarns over the piece of wood ; scrape the remainder 
down over the others ; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, 
hitch it with hambro-line. . This makes a snug eye for the collars 
of stays. (See Plate.) 



27.— AN ARTIFICIAL EYE. 

Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain dis- 
tance, and form the eye by placing the two strands along the 
standing part of the rope and stopping them fast to it ; then take 
the odd strand and cross it over the standing part, and lay it into 
the vacant place you took it from at first; work around the eye, 
filling up the vacant strand until it comes out at the crutch again, 
and lies under the other two strands; the ends are tapered, 
scraped down, marled, and served over with spun-yarn. 



28.— TO WORM AND SERVE A ROPE. 

Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the 
strands of the rope with spun-yarn ; this is done in order to 
strengthen it, and to render the surface smooth and round for 
parceling. 

Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips 
from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope ; 
the strips of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before 
you commence to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun- 
yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, 
called a serving mallet; it has a large score cut in the under part 
of it, so as to fay on the rope, and a handle about a foot long, or 



28 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

according- to the size of the mallet. The service is always laid 
on against the lay of the rope ; a boy passes the ball of spun-yarn 
at some distance from the man that is serving the rope, and 
passes it round as he turns the mallet ; when the required length 
of service is put on, the end is put under the three or four last 

turns of the service and hauled taut. 

■ 

Note. — It has always been customary to put on parceling with 
the lay of the rope in all cases ; but rigging that you do not intend 
to serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way. 



29.— TO CLAP ON A THROAT AND QUARTER SEIZING. 

Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end 
round both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on ; then 
reeve it through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them 
hand-taut ; then make a marlinespike-hitch on the seizing, by 
taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike, and laying 
the end over the standing part ; push the marlinespike down 
through, then under the standing part and up through the bight 
again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing with the spike ; 
pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner, making 
six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope ; then pass 
the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns, five, 
seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the 
first turns ; these should not be hove too taut — the end is now 
passed up through the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between 
the two parts of the rope, and round the seizing ; take the end 
under the last turn and heave it taut ; make an overhanded knot 
on the end of the seizing, and cut off close to the knot. 

Note. — When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the 
standing part, it is called an end-seizing ; if on the two parts 
below the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is 
passed the same way, but is not crossed with the end of the 
seizing. 



30.— TO MAKE A TURK'S HEAD. 

Turk's heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the 
foot-ropes of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the 
Turk's head is much neater than the knot, and considered by 
some an ornament. It is generally made of small white line. 
Take a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk's 
head on, — cross the bights on each side of the . round turn, and 
stick one end under one cross, and the other under the other 
cross j it will then be formed like the middle figure in the plate, 



Sheepshank. 




Worming a Rope. ; iiO\. 

Serving a Rope. 



A Strand 





Buoy Rope Knot. 



"^S 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 29 

after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all round, 
and it is completed. 



31.— TO SHEEPSHANK A ROPE OR BACKSTAY. 

This is intended for shortening a backstay ; the rope is doubled 
in three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over 
each bight with the standing part of the backstay and jamed 
taut. 



32.— TO PUT A STRAND IN A ROPE. 

This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or 
magged, and the other two remaining good. To perform this, 
you take your knife and cut the strand at the place where it is 
chafed, and unlay it about, a couple of feet each way ; then take 
a strand of a rope as near the size as possible, and lay it in the 
vacancy of the rope, (as you see in the Plate,) and stick the ends 
the same as a long splice. 



33.— TO WALL AND CROWN. 

Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a 
wall knot, by taking the first strand and forming a bight ; take 
the next strand, and bring it round the end of the first, the third 
strand round the second, and up through the bight of the first — 
this is a wall. (See Plate.) 

To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, which 
call the first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, 
and through the bight of the first. It will then appear as you 
see in Plate No. 3. 



34.— TO MAKE A MATHEW WALKER. 

A Mathew Walker is made by opening the end of a rope, and 
taking the first strand round the rope and through its own bight ; 
then take the second end round the rope underneath, through the 
bight of the first, and through its own bight ; the third end take 
round the same way, underneath and through the bights of all 
three. Haul the ends well taut, and it will appear as in the 
Plate. This is a good lanyard knot, if well made. 



30 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

35.— A SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT. 

Unlay two ends of a rope, and place the two parts which are 
unlaid together ; form a bight with one strand, and wall the six 
together against the lay of the rope, (which is hawser-laid,) the 
same as you would a single wall with three ends ; after you have 
walled with the six ends, haul them taut ; you must then crown 
with the six ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. To com- 
plete it, you must follow the lead of the parts, and double wall 
and crown it. 

This knot is frequently used in old-fashioned ships as a stop- 
per knot. 



36.— A SHROUD KNOT. 

Unlay the ends of two ropes and place them one within the 
other, the same as you commence to make a short splice ; then 
single wall the ends of one rope round the standing part of the 
other, and then wall the other three ends in the same manner ; 
the ends are opened out, tapered down, and served over with 
spun-yarn. This knot is used when a shroud is either shot or 
carried away. 



37.— A FRENCH SHROUD KNOT. 

Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing them close 
together ; then lay the first three ends back upon their own part, 
and single wall the other three ends round the bights of the other 
three and the standing part ; it will then appear like the figure in 
the Plate. The ends are tapered as the other. This knot is much 
neater than the common shroud knot. 



38.— SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT. 

Unlay the end of a rope a sufficient length to make the knot, 
and with the three strands form three bights, holding the ends 
fast down the side of the rope in your left hand, with the stand- 
ing part of the rope ; then take the first strand over the bight of 
the second strand and through the bight of the third ; then take 
the second over the third and through the bight of the first ; then 
the third, over the first and through the second. Haul these taut 
and lay the ends of the strands up again, and it will appear as in 
the Plate. This knot is used for jib-boom foot-ropes, man-ropes, 
&c. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 31 



39.— DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT. 

To make this, you make a single one as before ; then take a 
marlinespike and open the strands, and follow the lead through 
two single bights, the ends coming out at the top of the knot ; 
lay the ends of the strands up as before, and it will appear as in 
the Plate. 



40.— A STOPPER KNOT 

Is made by double-walling and crowning, which has been 
described before on another page. The ends, if very short, are 
whipped without being laid up ; but if long they are laid up and 
stopped. 



41.— A BUOY-ROPE KNOT. 

Unlay the strands of a cable-laid rope, take one strand out of 
the large ones, and then lay the three large ones up again as 
before ; take the three small ones which were left out, single and 
double them round the standing part of the rope ; then take your 
spare ends, worm them along the lay and stop them. 



42.— COMMON SENNIT. 

Sennit is made by plaiting rope-yarns together. (/See Plate 
No. 4.) 



43.— A SEA GASKET. 

A sea gasket is made by taking three or four foxes, according 
to the size you intend to make the gasket. Middle them over 
a belaying-pin, and plait three or four together, long enough to 
make the eye ; then clasp both parts together to form the eye : 
then plait it by bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately 
over to the middle ; the outside one is laid witb the right hand, 
and the remainder held steadily — work the whole together, add- 
ing a fox when necessary. When you have got it a sufficient 
length, diminish by dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish 
it, you must lay one end up, leaving its bight down ; then plait the 
others through this bight about one inch ; haul the bight taut 
to secure all parts — cut the ends off, whip it, and it is completed. 



32 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

44.— A PANCH, OR WROUGHT MAT. 



A piece of six or nine-thread stuff is stretched in a horizontal 
direction, and the foxes (according to the breadth you intend to 
make the mat) are middled and hung over it ; then take the fox 
nearest the left hand and twist a turn in the two parts, and one 
part give to the man opposite (two men being employed to work 
the mat) ; the next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts, and 
one part given back to your partner ; the remainder are twisted 
round the first which are given back, and then again round its 
own part, and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you 
get it the breadth you wish. At the bottom of the mat selvedge 
it by taking a piece of nine-thread stuff, the same as you used 
for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted to- 
gether at the bottom are divided, and the nine-thread put between 
them ; the foxes are hitched round it, and the end put through its 
own lay with a marlinespike ; trim the ends off, and thrum it 
with pieces of old strands of rope, cut in pieces about three or 
four inches long ; open the lays of the foxes with a marlinespike, 
push the thrums through the lays, and open the ends out. 



45.— HARBOR GASKET, OR FRENCH SENNIT. 

A harbor gasket is made with foxes, something similar to the 
common sea gasket, — but instead of taking the outside fox over 
all the rest, and bringing it into the middle, you interweave it 
between them by taking the outside fox of both sides, and taking 
it over one and under the other, working it towards the middle, 
the same as common sennit. 



46.— POINTING A ROPE. 

Unlay the end of the rope a sufficient length for pointing, and 
stop it ; open the strands out into yarns, and take out as mani- 
as you think it will require to make the knittles, by splitting the 
yarns and making one knittle out of every outside yarn ; when 
they are made, stop them back on the standing part of the rope : 
then form the point with the rest of the yarns, by trimming and 
scraping them down to a proper size, and marl it down with 
twine — divide the knittles, taking every other one up and every 
other one down ; then take a piece of twine, called the warp, and 
with it pass these turns very taut, taking a hitch with the last 
turn every time you pass the warp, or filling. Then take the 
knittles which are up and bring them down, and the ones which 
are down, up ; hauling them taut, and passing the warp every 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 33 

time over the lower knittles ; proceed in this manner until you 
get almost to the end, reserving enough of the knittles to finish it 
with ; leave out every other bight of the knittles of the last lay. 
and pass the warp through the bight, haul them taut and cut 
them off. A becket is sometimes worked in the end. 

Note. — Knittles are made by laying rope-yarns together, with 
your finger and thumb, against the twist of the yarn. 

Snaking is for the better securing of a seizing, which is passed 
round the single part of the rope and therefore cannot be crossed. 
It is done by tucking the end part of the seizing under and over 
the lower and upper turns of the seizing. 



47.— TO MAKE A GROMMET. 

A grommet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope and placing 
one part over the other ; with the long end follow the lay, until it 
forms a ring, with three parts of the strand all round ; finish it by 
knotting and sticking the ends the same as a long splice. {See 
plate No. 4.) 



48.— TO PASS A ROSE LASHING. 

It is used in lashing a strap or pudding round a mast or yard 
or the parral lashing of a top-gallant yard ; this lashing is passed 
crossways over and under one eye, then under and over the 
other ; the end part is afterwards taken in a circular form round 
the crossing, and the end tucked under the last part. 

Note. — This circular part is done to expend the end, instead 
of cutting it off, so that it will answer again for the same purpose. 



49.— TO WEAVE A SWORD MAT. 

A piece of wood called a sword is used ; this is put alternately 
between the parts of the spun-yarn or sennit, stretched over two 
round iron bolts (as you see in the figure) ; the warp of marline 
is placed through the parts which the sword has opened, and 
jamed by it close to the head ; a piece of spun-yarn is put slack 
through the same division at the opposite end and left there ; the 
sword is taken out, passed under and over the parts as before, 
and each end of the warp passed and jamed taut. The piece 
of spun-yarn which was left at the opposite end, is now lifted up, 
and brings the parts as they were first divided by the sword ; the 
warp is passed as before, and so on until the mat is completed. 



34 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

SO.— A LASHING CLEAT 

Is shaped like the figure in the Plate, having scores for the 
seizings which are marked, and a groove cut in the part that fits 
next to the shroud. 

BLOCKS. 

51.— A SHELL, PIN, AND SHEAVE. 

Blocks are of different kinds, shapes, and sizes, according to 
the several purposes for which they are intended. 

A block consists of a shell, sheave, and pin ; and from the num- 
ber of these sheaves it derives its name, viz. : a block with one 
sheave is called single ; with two sheaves, double ; with three, 
treble ; and with four sheaves it is called a four-fold block. The 
shell of a block is made of ash, and has one or two scores cut at 
each end, according to its size ; these scores are for the purpose 
of admitting a strap, which goes round the block, in the centre 
of which is a hole for the pin ; the shell is hollow inside to ad- 
mit the sheave. The sheave is a solid wheel, made of lignum 
vitee, iron, or brass ; in the centre is a hole for the pin, on which 
it turns. The lignum vitee sheave is bushed with brass or iron ; 
round the circumference a groove is cut, that the rope which goes 
over it may play with ease. The sheave is placed, in the shell, 
and the pin is put through both shell and sheave, which consti- 
tute a block. 



52.— SINGLE, DOUBLE, AND TREBLE BLOCKS. 

What is termed a single block has but one sheave, and if in- 
tended for a double strap there are two scores on the outside of 
the shell. Single blocks are more used than any other kind on 
board of a ship. 

A double block has an additional sheave ; it is otherwise the 
same as a single block. 

A treble block is made in the same manner as a double, with 
one more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as purchase 
blocks, and strapped in the manner you see in the Plate. 



53.— A SHOULDER BLOCK. 

A shoulder block is the same as a single block, with the ex- 
ception that it has a projection at the bottom of the shell, called 




a a ft a 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 35 

a shoulder, to prevent the rope that reeves through it from jam- 
ing between the block and the yard. These blocks are mostly 
used for bumkin or lift blocks on lower vards. 



54.— A FIDDLE BLOCK 

Is made like two single blocks one above the other, the upper 
one being the largest so as to allow the rope which is rove in the 
upper sheave, to play clear of the rope in the under one. These 
blocks are used in places where there is not space enough for a 
double one, or where it (the double block) would be liable to split 
by not canting fair, or having room to play. These blocks are 
used for top burtons, <fcc. (fee. 



55.— A SHOE BLOCK 

Is also made like two single blocks, but the sheave of the up- 
per one lies in a contrary direction to that of the lower one. 
They are generally used as buntline blocks to courses ; the bunt- 
line reeving in the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one. 



56.— A SISTER BLOCK 

Has two sheave-holes one above the other, — three scores for 
seizings, one at each end, and one between both sheaves ; they 
are hollowed out on each side of the shell, to take the shroud. 
These blocks are used as topsail-lift and reef-tackle blocks, and 
are seized-in between the two forward shrouds of the topmast 
rigging, above the futtock stave. The lift reeves through the 
lower sheave, and the topsail reef-tackle through the upper one. 



57.— A DEAD-EYE 

Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in it, (as you 
see in the Plate,) and a groove cut round it for the shroud to lie 
in. It is used to turn in the ends of shrouds and backstays ; — 
the three holes are used to reeve the lanyard through, when set- 
ting up the shroud or backstay. 

A bull's-eye is a kind of thick wooden thimble, with a hole 
in the centre, and a groove cut round the outside for the rope o 
seizing to lay in. 



36 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

58.— A HEART 

Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, at the bot- 
tom of which are four or five scores, and round the outside is a 
groove cut to admit a rope called a stay ; there are other hearts 
called collar-hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to 
which the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double score cut 
round the outside, and two grooves cut on each side for the seiz- 
ings to lay in, which keeps the collar in the scores of the heart. 
Hearts intended for bobstays should be made of lignum vitae ; 
those made of ash being liable to split. 



59.— A. BELAYING-PIN RACK 

Is a piece of wood with a number of holes through it, in which 
belaying-pins are stuck ; on the back part are several scores for 
the shrouds to lie in to which it is seized. 



60.— A EUPHROE 

Is a long piece of wood, having a number of holes, through 
which the legs of the crowfoot is rove, — a score is cut round it to 
admit of a strap. This is used for the ridge of an awning. 



61.— A HORN CLEAT. 

Horn cleats are used for different purposes ; some are made to 
seize on to the shrouds ; they are called lashing cleats ; others 
are made to nail on to different parts of the bulwarks. They are 
of different shape and size, and used to belay various ropes to, in 
all parts of the ship. 



62.— A B-CLEAT 

Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something like the letter 
B, and rounded off outside ; they are used for leading a rope 
through, or for keeping it in its place on the masts, bowsprit, <fcc. 



63.— A STRAP FOR A BLOCK. 

Straps are fitted in various ways, according to the use they are 
intended for, and according to the size of the block. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 37 

A common strap is fitted in the following manner : — 
First, cut the rope once-and-a-half the round of the block, then 
get it on a stretch, — worm, parcel, and serve as near the end as 
possible, not to interfere with splicing ; then splice the ends 
together with a short splice, and finish serving snug up to the 
splice. Stretch it and cut the ends off, or you may serve over 
the ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. If there is a num- 
ber of those straps required, it would be best to get the rope on a 
stretch, and serve off the required number before cutting. 



64.— A TAIL BLOCK 

Is strapped with an eye-splice, snug round the block ; the ends 
are stuck but once ; then scraped down, and served over with 
spun-yarn. Clap on a stout whipping about six inches from the 
splice ; open the ends out, twist them into foxes, and plait them 
together, as mentioned for gaskets ; or, the strands may be 
opened out and marled down salvagee fashion ; tapering it a 
little towards the end of the tail. 

Note. — Blocks used for jiggers, have a double tail made in the 
same manner. 



65.— A PURCHASE BLOCK 

Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell for that pur- 
pose ; the strap is wormed, parceled, and served, (sometimes only 
wormed and parceled,) and spliced together. It is then doubled 
so as to bring the splice at the bottom of the block. The seizing 
is put on the same as any other ; the only difference is, that it is 
crossed both ways, through the double parts of the strap. 

These block-straps are so large and stiff, that it requires a pur- 
chase to set them securely in the scores of the block, and bring 
them into their proper place. 



66.— A TOP BLOCK 

Is a single iron-bound hook-block, with (generally) a brass 
sheave ; it hooks to an eye-bolt in the cap. The top-pendants 
are rove through the top-blocks when swaying up topmasts. 



38 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR. 



67.— A CAT BLOCK. 

The cat block is three-fold, iron-bound, with a large iron hook 
attached to it, for the purpose of hooking the ring of the anchor 
when catting it. 

On the forward side of the shell of this block are two small 
eye-bolts, for the purpose of fitting a small rope, called the back- 
rope bridle, used in hooking the cat. 



68.— A SNATCH BLOCK 

Is generally iron-bound, with a swivel hook ; an iron clasp is 
fitted on the iron band, or strap, with a hinge to go over the 
snatch, and toggles on the opposite side, as you see in the Plate. 
The bight of a hawser or large rope is placed in this block, when 
warping the ship, &c. 

Note. — There has been of late years several different improve- 
ments made on these blocks. 

Blocks of this description, and of a large size, are generally 
termed " viol, or rouse-about blocks." 



69.— A NUN BUOY. 

Buoys are used when a ship is riding at anchor, to denote the 
position of the anchor. They are a kind of a cask, large in the 
middle, and small at both ends ; hooped close with iron hoops, 
and strapped with rope well served. A buoy-strap is cut nine 
times the length of the buoy ; this is sufficient to make the slings 
and hoops ; the slings have an eye spliced in each end, the hoops 
are rove through these eyes, spliced together, and fitted on the 
buoy, as you see in the Plate. 



70.— TO BEND A BUOY-KOPE. 

The buoy rope is made fast with a clove-hitch round the arms 
of the anchor, close up to the crown, and the end part stopped 
along the shank, with one or two stops. 

Some are fitted with a running eye, and when used this way 
the running eye is rove round one arm, a hitch taken over the 
other, and seized in the cross. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 39 

In large ships they are fitted with pendants and slip buoy- 
ropes ; the pendants have a large thimble spliced in one end, 
large enough to receive a stout hawser, in case you should want 
to purchase the anchor by the buoy-rope. The size for the slip 
buoy-rope is one-third the size of the proper buoy-rope. 



71.— TO PUDDING THE RING OF AN ANCHOR. 

The ring of the anchor is well tarred, and parceled with tarred 
canvass ; then a number of lengths of old rope are cut three times 
the diameter of the ring ; these are laid on the ring, and stopped 
by a temporary seizing in the middle ; they are then placed fair 
by hand round the rings, as you see in the Plate. 

When one or two turns of rattling-stuff is taken round all 
parts, and a heaver put through it, it is hove well round, which 
stretches all parts snug round the ring. After it is all hove on 
neatly, put on the seizings, four in number. (See Plate.) 



72.— A JACOB'S LADDER. 

These ladders are used in many different parts of a ship of 
war ; they are used for stern ladders, rigging ladders, and on the 
swinging booms in harbor, &c. There are several different 
ways of making them ; some are made salvagee fashion, and 
covered ; others are made of four-stranded rope, and have the 
rounds put through between the strands of the rope. But the 
most general way of making these ladders, is to take some small 
rope, (about two-inch stuff,) and make two straps the length you 
intend to make the ladder, and splice them together with a short- 
long-splice. The straps being made, get them on a stretch both 
together, and see if they bear an equal strain ; if not, shorten one 
strap, so as to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark 
off where you intend the rounds to go, about fifteen inches apart. 

The rounds are pieces of round wood, about two inches in 
diameter, of the length required, with a score on each end, for the 
rope to lay in. Put the rounds in between both parts of the rope, 
exactly at the chalk mark ; having got them all placed, com- 
mence and seize them in, by putting on a snug seizing of mar- 
line on each side of the round ; you may parcel, leather, or serve 
in the nips, just as may be preferred. 



40 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

73.— CAN HOOKS 

Are broad flat iron hooks, in the eyes of which thimbles are 
inserted. What is termed a pair of can hooks, is a piece of rope 
four or five feet long, or long enough to span a cask from chime 
to chime. When fitted, one of these hooks are spliced into the 
end of this rope ; it is then got on a stretch, wormed, parceled 
and served, and a thimble is sometimes seized in the bight, to 
hook on to, when lifting a cask. 

Note. — Some are fitted with chain, with a large iron ring in 
the middle. 



74.— HOGSHEAD SLINGS 

Is a piece of rope about five fathoms long, and from five to six 
inches in circumference, with a large thimble spliced in one end, 
and the other end well whipped. They are used to sling large 
casks, being more secure than can hooks. They are put on in 
this manner : — pass the bight over one end of the cask, reeve the 
end through the thimble, and haul it well taut ; then take the 
end round the other end of the cask, and take two half-hitches 
round the standing part, and it is done. {See Plate.) 



75.— BAKREL SLINGS 

Are generally made of three inch rope, and of sufficient length 
to go round the barrel. They are similar to a long strap, spliced 
together with a short splice ; it is passed round the barrel and 
one bight rove through the other. 

They are sometimes made long enough to sling two or three 
barrels at a time. 



76.— A SINGLE WHIP. 

A single whip is the smallest and most simple purchase in use. 
It is made by reeving a rope through a single block, as you see 
in the Plate. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 41 

77.— A GUN-TACKLE PURCHASE 

Is made by reeving a rope through a single block, then through 
another single block, and make the end fast to the one it was 
first rove through, or splice it into the bottom of the block for 
neatness. (See Plate.) 



7 8.— A LUFF-TACKLE PURCHASE 

Consists of a double and single block ; the rope is rove through 
one of the sheave holes of the double block, then through the 
single one, through the double one again, and the end made fast 
to the single block, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom 
of the block. (See Plate.) 



79.— A TOP BURTON 

Is rove in the same manner as a luff- tackle purchase ; the only 
difference is, that the upper block of the burton is a fiddle block, 
while that of the luff is a double one. (See Plate.) 



8 O.— WHIP AND RUNNER. 

If a rope is rove through a single block, it is called a whip, as 
before mentioned ; and if the fall of this whip be spliced round 
the block of another whip, it becomes whip on whip, or whip and 
runner. (See Plate.) 



81.— A RUNNER AND TACKLE 

Is the same purchase as a luff-tackle applied to a runner. A 
runner is a large rope rove through a single block, with a hook 
spliced in one end. (See Plate.) 



82.— A TWO-FOLD PURCHASE 

Consists of two double blocks ; the fall is first rove through one 
sheave of the upper block, then through one of the lower ones ; 
through the upper one again, then through the lower one, and 
make the end fast to the upper block. 



42 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



83.— A THREE-FOLD PURCHASE. 

A three-fold purchase is rove in this way, the blocks having 
one more sheave, only that you commence to reeve the fall in 
the middle sheave first, — instead of one of the side ones, which 
brings a cross in the fall. The reason of its being rove in this 
manner, is, that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, 
and if it was rove in the side sheave, it would have a tendency 
to cant the block in the strap, split the shell of the block, and 
cut the fall ; but when it is in the middle sheave it draws all 
down square alike. 



84.— NAMES OF ROPES. 

The different kinds of ropes are designated as follows : — 

Hawser-laid and cable-laid rope is all the same ; it is composed 
of nine strands, each strand having an equal number of yarns. 
These nine strands are laid into three, by twisting three small 
ones' into one large one ; then the three large ones are laid up, 
or twisted together left-handed, which makes the nine strands ; 
this is a hawser-laid, or cabled, rope. 

A common or plain rope is composed of three strands, of an 
equal number of yarns twisted together. 

Shroud-laid rope is made in the same manner, only that it con- 
sists of four strands instead of three, and a small strand which 
runs through the middle, termed the heart of the rope. When 
plain-laid rope is laid up left-handed, it is called back-laid rope. 
There is also four stranded hawser-laid rope, which is used for 
stays, &c. &c. 





;ipr 



PART II. 



85.— LAUNCHING A SHIP. 

After the carpenters have completed the hull of the vessel, the 
necessary preparations for launching are commenced as follows : — 

Get an anchor on each bow ; get the cables on board and bend 
them to the anchors ; range and bitt the cables ; bend the buoy- 
ropes, and see everything clear for letting go the anchors. 

It will then be necessary to get four stout hawsers on the spar 
deck, two on each side ; bend one to the other, and have them 
coiled down clear for running. This being done, pass the ends 
of two hawsers out forward, through the warping chocks on each 
bow ; pass the ends aft, one on each side, and make them fast to 
some secure place, on their respective sides of the launching slip, 
as clear of the ways as possible. Stop the bights of the hawsers 
with a single rope-yarn up along the ship's sides, so as not to in- 
terfere with the ways, or interrupt the progress of the carpenters 
while knocking away the shores previous to launching. 

Have men stationed to attend to veering the hawsers and 
cables when the ship is off the ways, and also to letting go the 
anchors, if necessary. Have a few buckets of water ready to 
throw on the bitts, to prevent any danger that might occur from 
fire while veering the hawsers and cables. 

The ways being well greased, and the necessary preparations 
for launching completed, all the blocks and wedges by which the 
ship was formerly supported, are driven out from under her keel, 
until the whole weight gradually subsides upon the sliding ways, 
or cradle ; a few shores, or stanchions, remain, by which she is 
retained on the stocks until the period for launching arrives, 
which is generally at high water ; they are then cut away, and 
all obstructions removed, with the exception of the dogshore (a 
representation of which is given in the Plate). The word is 
given " to launch" — the dogshore is then knocked away, which 
causes her to advance down the inclined plane into the water. 

If the ship should hang after the dogshore is removed, it will 
be necessary to apply screws under the fore-foot, which will cause 



44 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

her to move immediately along the ways. The ways generally 
extend a sufficient depth under the surface of the water to float 
the vessel when she arrives at the extreme ends. 

When the ship is off the stocks " veer away roundly," and do 
not attempt to check her until she begins to deaden her way, 
then check her " handsomely " with the hawsers so as not to part 
them ; if, however, they should part, let go an anchor immedi- 
ately ; if that should not bring her up, let go the other anchor, 
and veer gradually on both cables until she is brought up. 

Note. — When a ship is to be launched it is always customary 
to hoist the ensign, jack, and pennant ; the jack forward, ensign 
aft, and the pennant amidships. Flagstaffs are erected for that 
purpose previous to launching, as represented in the Plate, where 
you see a ship of war ready to be launched from the stocks. 



86.— GUTTING OUT STANDING RIGGING. 

Lower Rigging. — Measure the distance from the larboard side 
of the mast-head to the foremost dead-eye in the starboard chan- 
nels, Avhich distance set off on the floor of the figging loft and 
stick in a marlinespike at each extremity. The shroud stuff 
being stretched, stop one end to one of the marlinespikes ; take 
the bight round the other and back again : this is the first pair of 
shrouds ; pass it round again, outside at each end, for the second 
pair, and continue in this manner until one gang of rigging is 
completed. Mark the length of the eyes straight across at the 
opposite end, to the one stopped to the marlinespike ; cut at the 
latter in an angular direction (so that the after-legs will be a 
little longer than the forward ones), and the inside pair will be 
the first pair of shrouds. Hitch a piece of spun-yarn round each 
shroud, in the centre of the eye, making knots on it according to 
the number of the shroud, commencing the inside pair with one 
knot. The mark for the length of the eye gives the place for the 
eye-seizing ; the round of the rope giving their place on the 
mast-head. {Old fashion.) 

The proportion for the eye is the round of the mast-head above 
the bolsters ; I have also seen the breadth of the seizing added 
(some allow five squares of the mast-head, which is the best rule), 
supposing it would lay fairer on the side of the bolsters than too 
close to the mast-head. This precaution is hardly necessary, as 
the rigging will stretch sufficiently in pulling up to bring the 
seizing down, no matter how much it may have been stretched 
before being warped round for cutting. 

Rigging cut on the above old plan, causes great waste in 
squaring off the ends, after fitting the eyes, previous to turning- 
in the dead-eyes. I would therefore recommend (if not in a great 




Sketch of a draft for cutting rigging. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 45 

hurry) a more economical plan. Get the shroud- warp on a 
stretch, or rather one end of it, long enough for one pair of 
shrouds ; mark off the distance for the required service, and when 
completed — being wormed, parceled, and served, while on a taut 
stretch — measure the length with a tape-line, from draft of first 
pair of shrouds, No. 1 starboard; when measured and chalked 
the required length, " come up the stretch," and cut at the chalk- 
mark ; middle the shroud at the centre of the service, and lay it 
on the loft floor. Continue fitting, and cutting, in this way until 
you get the number of shrouds required for the gang, allowing 
each pair of shrouds to lap over the diameter of the rope at the 
eye, as they are laid on the loft floor ; alternately making due 
allowance at the ends, before cutting, for the carry aft, or the 
jump of a port, if required. {See Plate.) 

Note. — In measuring the length of the shrouds, some prefer 
the distance from the opposite side of the mast-head to the part- 
ners, added to half the breadth of the deck, from the mast to the 
side. 

In parceling, begin at each end where the service is to leave 
off, and parcel upwards to the middle of the eye, where com- 
mence serving downwards on each leg. The eye seizings are 
round ones, and when put on, the whole eye is neatly covered 
with parceling. A half-sister block is sometimes put between 
the two forward shrouds, for the lower boom topping lift to lead 
through. 



87.— TOPMAST AND TOP-GALLANT RIGGING 

Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the topmast rigging, 
always seize-in a sister-block between the two forward shrouds, 
for the topsail lift and reef tackles. The swifter* are generally 
served the whole length. 

The eyes of the top-gallant rigging are made to fit exactly 
around the cylinder ; if there is an odd topmast, or top-gallant 
shroud, on each side, they are either fitted with a horse-shoe 
eye, or go together with a cut splice. 



88.— BREAST AND STANDING BACKSTAYS. 

These may be cut by the same rule ; the eyes of the breast 
backstays are fitted in different ways. They are sometimes 
spanned together, making a square, the size of the mast-head ; 
sometimes they have an eye like the shrouds, made to fit close ; 
and others have a small eye seized in the bight, and lashed 



46 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

round the mast-head. The eyes of the standing backstays are 
fitted like those of the shrouds. 



89.— CAT HARPEN LEGS, AND FUTTOCK SHROUDS. 

Take one-third the breadth of the top, and lay of that distance 
from the eye-seizing, down upon the shrouds, each side ; draw a 
line across which will represent the cat harpens, and measured 
on the scale, will give their length ; splice in eyes at each end ; 
worm, parcel, serve, and leather them. The distance from the 
extremity of the top and this line upon the shroud, will give the 
length of the futtock shrouds, which must have a hook and thim- 
ble in their upper ends, and a thimble in their lower ends. 



90.— FORE-AND-AFT STAYS. 

Measure from the after parts of the mast-head to where the 
stays set up, and to this distance add the length of the mast- 
head, for collars. 

Collars for stays are the length of their respective mast-heads. 
The mou sings are raised once-and-a-half the size of the stays, 
and at a distance equal to twice the length of the mast-head from 
the mousing. A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay 
rove through it ; or they may be fitted with lashing eyes, in which 
case each leg is the length of the mast-head ; the service is con- 
tinued the length of the eye below the mousing, the collars 
leathered, and the hearts turned in with the lay of the rope. 
Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and leathered in the wake 
of all nipps, such as the bees, bullock-blocks, and sheave-holes. 



91.— CUTTING LOWER MAST HEAD-PENDANTS. 

The forward pair should be twice the length of the mast-head 
— the after pair twice-and-a-half; thimbles are spliced in the 
ends, and they are wormed or spanned together, so as to form a 
span to fit the mast-head. 



92.— BOBSTAYS. 

The bobstays are cut twice the length from the collars, on the 
bowsprit, to their respective holes on the "cutwater. They are 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 47 

wormed, parceled, and served the whole length, and leathered in 
the nipp 2 after which they are rove through the holes, spliced to- 
gether, and the dead eyes turned in, in the wake of a splice. 



93.— BOWSPRIT SHROUDS. 

The length from the bowsprit to the eye-bolts in the bows ; a' 
dead-eye or heart is spliced into one end, and a hook and thimble 
in the other. 



94.— JIB AND FLYING JIB GUYS. 

Take the distance from the boom-end to the bows, making a 
tmall allowance for reeving through the straps on the spritsail 
yard. They are generally fitted with a cuckold's neck over the 
boom end, and set up with dead-eyes to the bows. The cuck- 
old's neck is served or covered with canvass. The guys in the 
wake of the spritsail yard are leathered. The martingales must 
be cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are rove. 



95.— CUTTING RUNNING RIGGING. 

The greater part of the running rigging may be cut as it is 
rove, making due allowance for the hands to clap on. The 
length and size may also be got from the rigging table for all 
classes in the navy (see rigging tables). The most proper way 
to ascertain the length of a rope is from the draft, or rigging 
plan of the vessel you are employed upon, making the proper 
allowance for leading out, &c, &c. 



96.— RIGGING SHEERS, AND TAKING IN MASTS AND 
BOWSPRIT. 

In cases where there is neither sheers nor wharf to have re- 
course to, in order to get the lower masts on board, it becomes 
necessary to get such spars as can be procured, and erect a pair 
of sheers on board for that purpose. 

In doing this proceed as follows : — Take in a sufficiency of 
ballast to steady the ship, and shore the decks from the skin up, 



48 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

particularly abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down 
the sides ; reeve the parbuckles, and bring the sheer legs along- 
side, with their small ends aft ; parbuckle them on board, raise 
one leg over the capstan, and their heads or after ends resting 
either on the taffrail, the break of the poop, or a spar placed in 
the most convenient spot, the more elevated the better. Square 
the heels exactly one with the other, so that when they come to 
be raised the legs may be found of equal height. 
• As near the after ends of the spars as may be considered 
necessary, when crossed, put on the head-lashing of new, 
well-stretched rope (Jigure-of-8 fashion), similar to a racking 
seizing, and cross with the ends. Open out the heels, carrying 
one over to each gangway, and placing it on a solid piece of oak 
or shoe, previously prepared for the purpose. Clap stout tackles 
on the heels, two on each, one leading forward, the other aft ; 
set taut the after ones, and belay them. Lash a three or four-fold 
block, as the upper one of the main purchase, over the main 
lashing (so that it will hang plumb under the cross), with can- 
vass underneath to prevent chafing ; and in such a manner that 
one-half the turns of the lashing may go over each horn of the 
sheers, and divide the strain equally .; also sufficiently long to 
secure the free action of the block. Lash the small purchase 
block on the after horn of the sheers, sufficiently high for the 
falls to play clear of each other, and a girtline block above all. 

Middle a couple of hawsers, and clove-hitch them over the 
sheer heads — having two ends leading forward, and two abaft, 
led through viol blocks, and stout luffs clapped on them. These 
should be sufficiently strong to secure the sheers while lifting the 
masts. 

The lower purchase block is lashed forward (perhaps round 
the cut-water), and the fall being rove, the sheers are raised by 
heaving upon it, and preventing the heels from slipping forward, 
by means of the heel tackles previously mentioned. 

Sometimes a small pair of sheers are erected for the purpose 
of raising the heads of the large ones ; in which case care must 
be taken to place them so as to allow the heads or horns of the 
other pair to pass through. 

When the sheers are up, or nearly perpendicular, cleat the 
shoes, so as to confine the heels to their places upon them. They 
can then be transported along the deck by means of the heel- 
tackles and guys to the situation required, taking care to make 
them rest upon a beam, and to have the deck properly shored up 
below. 

Finally, give the sheers the necessary rake by means of the 
guys, and set taut all the guys and heel-tackles. Also, five or 
six feet above the deck, on each leg, put two cleats, for the pur- 
pose of applying two stout lashings from them above, to the dead- 
eyes in the channels below, in order to give greater security; this 
being done, the sheers may be considered ready. (See Plate). 



FIG. 1 




Masting and Dismasting. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 49 

Note. — The skids which are slung up and down the sides, are 
for the purpose of keeping the sheer-legs clear of the channels, 
and from thence to the plank shear. Mats should also be placed 
over the quarter galleys to prevent injury. 

Parbuckles are hawsers which are middled ; the ends of which 
are taken through two ports which are about five or six ports 
apart, from outside, in ; down over the rail, under the sheer legs ; 
up again through snatch blocks, in the opposite water-ways, and 
luffs clapped on them. The counter parbuckles are used to ease 
the sheer legs down on deck, and are rove through the gun-deck 
ports. Mats should be placed in the wake of the chafe, where 
the parbuckle leads over the rail, or up through the gun-deck 
ports. 

The parbuckling on board of heavy spars for sheers may be 
much facilitated at times, and injury to the ship avoided, by at- 
tending to circumstances, and getting them in at slack water, or 
over the bows or stern. 

When a ship is confined to her own resources, the lower yards 
are the best spars for sheers ; the heels (or yard-arms resting on 
the deck) being strengthened where they taper by a temporary 
fish, woolded on, and the woolding set up by wedges. 

In a brig, the main yard and main boom are the best spars 
for sheers (if other spars are not available). 

The shoes are made of either stout oak plank or beam timbers 
of pine, and long enough to extend over at least three beams, 
with a saucer in them for the heels to rest in ; likewise, mortices 
or bolts in each end for lashing. The spare caps will be found 
very handy for placing the heels of the spars in, and the eye- 
bolts in them convenient for hooking the heel-tackles, and trans- 
porting along the decks. 




50 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 




97.— TO TAKE IN THE MIZEN-MAST. 

Tow the mizen-mast alongside, with the head aft, and the gar- 
land* lashed on to the forward part of the mast, at the distance 
from the tennon to just above the spar deck partners ; lash a pair 
of girtline blocks on the mast-head, and reeve the girtlines ; bend 
the sheer-head girtline to the mast below the bibbs to cant it. 
Overhaul the main purchase down abaft, thrust the strap through 
the eyes of the garland, toggle it, and secure the toggle by a back- 
lashing. Take the fall to the capstan and " heave round ;" when 
the heel rises near the rail, hook on a heel-tackle to ease it in- 
board. Get the mast fair for lowering by means of the girtlines, 
have carpenters attending below, wipe the tennon dry, and white 
lead both it and the step, "lower away,*' and step the mast. 

Pass a couple of straps around the mast ; to each of these 
hook the double blocks of the pendant tackles — the single ones 



* Garlands are made of new rope, well stretched (salvagee fashion), marled 
together and parceled. They are laid on the forward part of the mast, a stout 
lashing put on over all, and crossed between the garland and the mast; — a good 
dogging also, if necessary, passed downward. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 51 

to the sides, and hauled taut ; wedge the mast temporarily, 
" come up " the purchases, man the guy and heel tackles, wet 
the decks, and transport the sheers forward for taking in the 
main-mast. 

The object of taking in the mizen-mast first is, because the 
breadth of beam is less aft than forward ; and the heels of the 
sheers being spread more as they go forward, the head lashing 
consequently becomes tauter ; moreover, if the mizen-mast was 
taken in last, the bowsprit must be got in first, and thus the ad- 
vantage of securing the sheers to the foremast-head, when get- 
ting in the bowsprit, would be lost. 



98.— TO TAKE IN THE MAIN AND FOREMAST. 

Proceed in the same manner as in getting in the mizen mast. 
The garland for the small purchase should be lashed about the 
diameter of the mast, above the main purchase. 

In taking in either of the masts, if the sheers should be found 
to be a. few inches short, the difficulty ma} T be remedied by man- 
ning the forward guy-falls, and bringing the sheers perpendicu- 
lar to the deck. Some distance may also be saved by using no 
garlands and having the purchase blocks lashed to the mast. 
If in lowering there should still be a difficult}", chocks might be 
placed on the kelson until the tennon rested on them ; then steady 
the mast by means of the small purchase and sheer-head girt- 
lines, while the main purchase is unlashed, and lashed again on 
the mast sufficiently high to step it. 

If the ship has a top-gallant forecastle, it would be well to step 
the mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the forecas- 
tle comes abreast of the partners ; and, in a case of this kind, it 
would be well to take in the foremast first. 



99.— TO TAKE IN THE BOWSPRIT. 

Transport the sheers as far forward as possible, or as the bows 
will permit ; send a hand to the sheer-head, bend on the girtlines 
to the small purchase block to light it up, unlash it, and lash it 
again to the forward fork or horns of the sheers, pass a strap 
round the foremast-head, to which hook a large tackle, carry it 
well aft, and haul it taut, for the purpose of staying the mast. 
Lash a couple of large single blocks to the foremast-head, middle 
a hawser, and clove-hitch it over the sheer-head ; reeve the ends 
through the blocks at the mast-head, down on deck, carry them 
well aft, and take a turn. Hook the after heel-tackles forward, 



52 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR , 

and take the after-guys aft ; pass a bulwark lashing round eacn 
heel, rake the sheers over the bows sufficiently for the main pur- 
chase to hang directly over the gammoning scuttle, and make 
all fast. 

The bowsprit being brought under the bows, with the head 
forward, and the garlands lashed on, the main one a little more 
than one-third from the heel, the smaller one between the cap 
and bees, having guys leading from the bowsprit to the cat-heads, 
and a couple of straps round the heel for hooking the bedding 
tackles. Overhaul down the purchases and toggle them ; " sway 
away," attending it by the guys, until nearly perpendicular ; hook 
on the bedding tackles, which are taken from the bitts on the 
main deck, and led up through the partners ; wipe the tennon 
dry, and white-lead both it and the mortice ; " lower away," bouse 
upon the bedding tackles, and bring it into its place ; come up 
purchases, guys, unlash garlands, and proceed to dismantle the 
sheers. 

If the ship has a topgallant forecastle, you will be unable to 
take in the bowsprit w T ith the sheers without the assistance of a 
derrick* on account of the brake of the forecastle, it not being 
prudent to step sheers on the top of it. 

When the ship is masted, and alongside the yard, commence 
getting on board and stowing ballast and tanks ; fit the rudder, 
gammon the bowsprit, fit and set up the bob stays and bowsprit 
shrouds ; fit fore stay collars ; get on board tops, caps, cross-trees, 
topmasts and topgallant masts, placing lower yards athwart ships, 
topsail and topgallant yards amidships ; also, have ready tackles 
and luffs for setting up the rigging and staying the masts, top- 
blocks with lashings for top-ropes, and all the rigging at hand 
and in order. 



lOO.— GAMMONING THE BOWSPRIT. 

In rigging a stage under the bowsprit for this purpose, make 
use of two small spars, such as topgallant studding-sail booms, 
with their heels lashed to the head-rail, their heads flapped toge- 
ther, and slung from the bowsprit end, and boards laid across 
from one to the other. 

The gammoning is of new, well-stretched rope, generally 
water-laid. One end of the gammoning being whipt, is passed 
through the hole in the cutwater, and over the bowsprit with a 
round turn, then clenched round the bowsprit close against the 
stop or cleats ; the other end passes through the forepart of the 
hole in the cutwater, again round the bowsprit (but before the 



* See Derrick, in Miscellaneous Articles. 



OR YOUNG BAILORS' ASSISTANT. 53 

clinch), and again through the hole in the cutwater, abaft the 
first turn. All the succeeding turns go in the same way, laying 
forward on the bowsprit and aft in the cutwater, and all are 
passed inside of the first turns ; by which means the outer turns 
on the bowsprit which bear the most strain are more preserved 
from chafing than the inner ones. 

The turns are then hove taut as follows : — A leading block is 
made fast to the holes for the bobstays by a strap long enough 
to admit of the pendant, which is then rove through it, leading 
straight through the hawse-hole to the capstan. In one end of 
this pendant an eye is spliced, through which a bight of the 
gammoning is passed, and retained by means of a toggle, while 
to the other end is hooked a long tackle, and the fall led to the 
capstan. As each turn is hove taut, it is, by some, nailed to the 
bowsprit, and by others, racked in several places, which is pre- 
ferable to nailing.* 

When all the turns are passed and hove taut, they are flapped 
together by as many crossturns as are passed on the bowsprit. 
The end is then whipped and seized to one of the turns. 

In ships with two gammonings, the outer one is hove taut first, 
as it would otherwise slack the inner one. 

Note. — Iron gammoning is now allowed for vessels of all 
classes in the service. {See Rigging Table.) 



101.— FITTING RIGGING. 

The shroud is hove well taut, with a tackle clapped on one 
end, and the other secured to a sampson post. It is wormed, 
parceled, and served a third down from the seizing ; the swifter 
or foremost shroud all the way, except where the dead-eye is 
turned in. A sword mat is sometimes laced on the foremost 
shroud, which, I think, answers much better, as it can be taken 
off and the rope dried ; and, from the different ropes I have seen 
rotted under the service, I feel convinced, the less on rigging, 
unless where absolutely necessary, the better. 

In parceling the eyes, commence from each end of the service 
and finish in the centre, and pass several riding parts, as in 
breaking the shroud to form the eye, the service gets opened, 
which allows the wet to get in ; and if the service is begun in 
the centre, doubled, and then passed toward each end, it will 
prevent the wet getting to the rope. 

In forming the eye, take a good strand, knot both ends toge- 
ther, and lay it across both parts of the shroud ; having brought 
them as close together as possible, pass both bights of the strand 



See Gammoning the Bowsprit, in Miscellaneous Articles. 



54 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

under the shroud clear of each other ; then place a long- bolt 
across, close to the strand on the upper side ; take a round 
turn round the bolt with each bight of the strand on each side 
of the shroud, put a smaller bolt through each eye in the strand, 
and heave it round the long bolt, and as the turns accumulate 
on the bolt, both parts of the shroud come together ; when quite 
close pass the eye seizing, the shroud being previously parceled 
in the way of it. 

When there is an odd on each side, it is fitted horse-shoe fash- 
ion to fit the mast-head ; parceled, and served over a third down 
the same as the other shrouds. I have seen the odd shroud put 
on the mast-head first (after the pendants), instead of last ; and 
then the others put on in rotation : No. 1 starboard, No. 2 lar- 
board, No. 3 starboard, &c. &c. 



102.— FITTING MAST-HEAD PENDANTS. 

The long leg, when two, should be a third of the shroud. 
The eye is formed the same as the shroud : wormed, parceled, &c. 
A thimble is spliced in each end, the ends put in once and a- 
half, marled down, and served over. The formost leg is once 
and a-half the round of the rope shorter than the after one. The 
thimbles are well parceled before being spliced m. 

Small ships have only one pendant on each side : when this 
is the case, the rope is cut to the proper length, the starboard pen- 
dant is spliced into the larboard, and the larboard into the star- 
board, with a cut splice forming an eye, or span, to fit the square 
of the mast-head ; a thimble is spliced into each end, and they 
are wormed, parceled and served ; — they are the same length as 
a long leg, when a pair on each side. 



103.— LOWER AND TOPMAST STAYS. 

Stays are four stranded, and are now both the same size, and 
lashed abaft the mast-heads. The legs are made for the collar in 
laying up. When sufficient length is laid up for the stay, from 
whence the collar commences to the end for setting up, two 
strands, one for each, are left sufficiently long to double back, 
and are then laid up as four strands, forming the lashing eyes 
and legs. The ends of the strands are then unlaid, the inside 
ones wormed into the lay of the rope ; the other strands are divi- 
ded, laid up, and worked in alongside the first strands ; then some 
more yarns are twisted smaller and used as backing; some in- 
side yarns from each strand should be wormed into the stay then* 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 55 

whole length, below the crotch ; the legs are then wormed, so as 
to completely nil the rope, commencing from the centre of the 
eyes for lashing, which should be well opened with a large set- 
ing fid, and worming carried into the stay as far down as the 
worming of the legs. The outside yarns of the legs are then 
marled down, over all, round the stay, tapering the ends. The 
legs are well parceled and served, and likewise the stay, sufficiently 
far down to take the lower yards, and covered ^ith tanned hide. 

The stays should be hove well out with purchases, and allowed 
to hang, pulling up occasionally. I have known a line-of-battle 
ship's stays (cable laid rope) to stretch out twelve feet, and after 
a two month's cruise were long enough to allow nearly two feet 
to be taken off the fore-stays. 

Stays fitted with lashing eyes are decidedly preferable, as they 
are easier shifted ; the collars not being so long the yards can be 
slung higher up, and consequently braced further forward. 

In the merchant service the stays are also fitted on the bight, 
or two in one, as follows : the bight is put over the mast-head 
and both ends taken forward and set up in their respective places. 
Others again put the bight under the bowsprit and set them up 
abaft the mast head, with lashing eyes, putting on a seizing at 
the proper place to form the collar. This last plan would not 
answer for a ship of war. 



104.— TO RIG THE FOREMAST. 

White-lead the mast-head in the wake of the trestle-trees, over 
haul down the girtlines, bend on the trestle-trees and sway them 
on board; take out the after chock, wipe them dry, bend the 
girtlines to the forward part and stop the girtlines to the after 
part ; bend the main girtline to the after part also ; " sway away," 
having a steadying-line forward to keep the trestle-trees from 
catching under the bibbs, for if they should be heavy, one man 
aloft will not be able to bear them off; when above the' bibbs, 
send a hand aloft to slip the stops, one at a time, so as to let 
them come down gradually. " Lower away," bouse on the after 
girtlines, and get the trestle-trees in their places ; send aloft the 
after chock, ship and bolt it. Tar the mast-head in the way of 
the rigging ; overhaul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which 
are tarred and parceled ; sway them aloft and stop them ; lash 
the girtline blocks to the after part of trestle-trees. 

The rigging is then sent up by the girtlines in the following 
manner : — 

Mast head pendants. — Foremost pair of shrouds, starboard 
side ; foremost pair of shrouds, larboard side ; second pair of 
shrouds, starboard side ; second pair of shrouds, larboard side, 



56 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

and so on until all the shrouds are over, after which send up the 
stay, and last of all the preventer or spring-stay. 

Placing the rigging. — The girtlines being overhauled down 
send aloft the lower pendants, which have got a long and 
short leg, fitted together with a span, or square, the size of the 
mast-head ; the long leg is placed abaft, so that in case of the 
forestay being shot away, the pendant tackles can be hooked in 
them without being in the way of the fore-yard in bracing ; while 
the leg being abaft, the mast affords them good security. As soon 
as the mast-head pendants are placed they ought to be lashed 
abaft, the tackles hooked, and the mast stayed by them. 
Overhaul down the girtlines, bend the mast-head one on the 
shroud, with a timber-hitch, or toggle, four or five feet below the 
seizing, and stop it to the centre of the eye ; take the girtline 
from the after trestle-tree, and bend it half way down the shroud : 
" sway away," on the lower girtline, and lift the weight of the 
shroud. When high enough, the stop in the eye is cut, and it 
will fall over the mast-head ; the men on the trestle-tress placing 
it fair on the bolsters, beating it well down, with commanders, 
and observing to have the eye-seizing come as near the centre 
of the mast-head as possible. The larboard pair is got up in the 
same manner, and so on until all are placed. Reeve the lan- 
yards, if prepared with a knot on the end ; a double-wall and 
crowned is preferable, a mathew-walker being liable to capsize ; 
the lanyard should be rove through the hole under the end of 
the shroud, because in setting it up, the strain comes on the 
shroud first, and keeps the dead-eye in its place ; if put under 
the standing part, the strain coming on the end first, the dead- 
eye would slue round. 

Setting up the lower rigging. — The rigging is often placea 
and then set up, but I would prefer (if time would permit) having 
it pulled up as placed. When the first pair on each side are 
over and placed, and the lanyards rove through both dead-eyes, 
clap a selvagee strap on each shroud well up ; to this hook the 
single block of a luff tackle ; the double, to a blackwall hitch in 
the lanyard ; then take the lower blocks of the pendant tackles 
and hook them to both the falls of the luffs on each side ; reeve 
the tackle falls through the leading blocks, and pull up, setting 
up both pair of shrouds at the same time, the men on the trestle-trees 
beating the shroud down as pulled up ; when well up, place two 
pair more, and proceed in this manner until the mast is rigged.* 

The advantage of pulling up a pair at each side, instead of 
singly, is evident from tlje fact that pulling up singly injures the 
seizing ; as it is first dragged forward and then aft by the after 



* See note on lower rigging. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 57 

ieg, it is liable to slack the seizing, and perhaps snap the inside 
turns. 

In rigging the lower masts, I have seen the after swifter go 
over first ; a plan that is now adopted in small vessels. In stay- 
ing the mast these swifters should be set taut, the mast being 
previously wedged, and the stays set steadily up. I have heard 
some old sailors dispute thi3 plan, it being new, but for my own 
part I think well of it. 

Note. — The trestle-trees might be got over without knocking 
out the after-chocks, by running up a derrick abaft the mast, 
well lashed abaft below the bibbs, having chocks placed between 
it and the mast, sufficient to admit of the free passage of the after 
chock of the trestle-trees. They are sometimes got on before 
getting in the mast, but they then bring in an additional and 
unnecessary weight upon the mast-head, and moreover, in low- 
ering, catch over the shear-head. 

N. B. The blocks for topmast stays should be put on after the 
second pair of shrouds (on foremast). 



105.— FUTTOCK SHROUDS 

Are now fitted, and hooked to the futtock plates in the top, and 
set up to an iron band round the mast. In small vessels these 
are iron, and set up with turnbuckles, or screws. Cat-harpens 
are seldom used, being considered unnecessary lumber aloft. 

Note. — The futtock shrouds are hooked to their respective 
plates, with the points of the hooks in: 



58 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



106.— TO RIG THE MAIN AND MIZEN-MAST. 

Proceed in the same manner as directed for the foremast. 
The mainmast of a frigate has one more pair of shouds than the 
foremast, and the mizen-mast three less. The mizen-mast 
has only one pendant on each side, fitted with a cut-splice, and 

thimble spliced in each end. The rigging is placed the same 
as the fore or main ; the mast is steadied into its place with a 
couple of long burtons, one to each pendant, and hooked to straps 
round the bitts, or to ring-bolts in the fore part of the quarter- 
deck bulwarks. If the stays are not ready for going up, the 
tackles can be hooked to a lashing round the mast, the pendants 
being wanted to pull up the rigging (for placing) ; the rigging is 
the same as the fore. 

In setting up the main-stays, pass one under, the other over, 
around the cross-piece in the four bitts, for the purpose ; clap the 
selvagee straps well up the stay, and two more near the ends ; 
to these hook two luffs ; to the falls of the luffs hook the lower 
blocks of main tackles ; reeve their falls through leading blocks, 
in as direct a line with the stay as possible, and grease the bitts 
in the way of the stay. 

In placing the main stays, in the manner mentioned above, 
there is sufficient space between tbe stays for a shot to pass 
through, which often prevents their being both cut away at the 
same time. 

When the rigging is to be set up for a full due, the stays in the. 
way of the bitts are well wormed, parceled, served, and covered 
with hide ; and the ends of the stays, and all the lower rigging 
whipped, and covered with canvass caps (neatly fitted). 



107.— TO RIG THE BOWSPRIT. 

Bobstays. — The rope should be well stretched, wormed, par- 
celed, and served, and in the way of the cutwater covered with 
leather ; when none is to be had, pass two parts of parceling, the 
first against, the second with the lay of the rope ; and serve with 
good stout spun-yarn, or four-yarn plait ; then reeve them through 
the cutwater, splice both ends together, put the strands in once 
each way, marl down, and serve over. The hearts are then se- 
cured in their place (keeping the splice on the upper side) with a 
round seizing, with parceling under it. They are sometimes fit- 
ted to shackle to the cutwater, with iron plates let in flush with 
the wood, a bolt going through both plates, which is very snug 
and strong. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 59 

Bowsprit Shrouds are single pieces of rope. 
When cut the required length (a hook and thim- 
ble), the latter parceled, is spliced into one end, 
put in once-and-a-half, marled down and served 
over ; a heart is spliced into the other. After 
being hooked to eye-bolts in the bows for the 
purpose, they are set up to their collars on the 
bowsprit. 

A celebrated master (now a commander) in 
the navy, and a first rate seaman, never served 
the bowsprit rigging all over ; it is, certainly, 
in my opinion, better not to do so, as the water can never lodge, 
which it may do, by getting in from broken service, which can- 
not be repaired at sea. They are now fitted one-third chain, on 
account of the chain cable chafing against them. 

It is not unusual, in small vessels, to insert thimbles instead 
of hearts in the bobstays, bowsprit shrouds, and collars ; covering 
the lanyards neatly afterwards, with canvass. 

Placing the rigging. — Tar well the bowsprit ; then put on 
the first forestay collar, first pair bowsprit shroud collars, first 
bobstay collar ; second bobstay collar : second pair of shroud 
collars ; spring-stay collar ; and cap bobstay collar ; then heave 
them close up, pass and heave well on with a rose-lashing. 

The man-ropes are spliced, or hooked into bolts in the bowsprit 
cap, and in the other end an eye is spliced ; ends put in once-and- 
a-half, and set up with a lanyard to an eye-bolt in knight-heads 
or stanchions, for the purpose ; splices served over, and leathered 
in the nip. 

The goblines* are either clove-hitched, or may be fitted with 
a cuckold's neck around the end of the dolphin-striker, and set 
up to the bows, one on each side. 



108.— GETTING THE TOPS OYER. 

Whole tops. — Overhaul the girtlines for the cross-trees, white- 
lead the squares in the trestle-trees, and ship them. The girt- 
lines being on each side of the mast-head are then overhauled 
down for the tops ; one end is passed from underneath, and up 
through the hole for mttock plate and hitched to the standing 
part ; the girtline can be rove down through one of the holes in 
the edge of lubber's hole : the girtline stopped to the foremost 
edge, to holes bored for the purpose. A girtline is taken from 

* Called back-ropes by some. 



60 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the mizen-mast-head, and bent to the foremost part of maintop ; 
bend on a tripping line to the pigeon hole leading from the fore- 
mast-head. Man the girtlines and " sway away ;" when suf- 
ficiently high to allow the foremost edge of lubber's hole to 
clear the mast-head, cut the stops and cant it over by the trip- 
ping line, and the top will hang in the girtlines, when it can be 
lowered, placed, and bolted. 

I have seen girtlines bent from the foremost part of the fore-top 
to the bowsprit end ; and from foremast to the forward part of 
the maintop ; 'and from mainmast to foremost part of mizen-top, 
to assist in getting the tops over ; but if they are properly slung 
it is not necessary. 

The dead-eyes for the topmast rigging can now be hauled up, 
and put in their places in the top-rims : and also ship the top-rail, 
and stanchions in their respective places. 



109.— GETTING HALF-TOPS OVER. 

Unlash the girtline blocks from each side of the mast-head, 
and lash them on the foremost and after sides ; send the end of 
the foremost girtline down abaft all, the other between the cross- 
trees. 

If the starboard half is to be got over, place it on the deck with 
its upper side up, or on its edge with the upper side aft. Take 
the foremost girtline, reeve it down through the foremost hole, 
by lubber's hole for the purpose, (or from aft forward, if on its 
edge,) take it underneath the top, and if the hole for the futtock 
plate will take it, reeve it up, (or from forward, aft, if on its edge,) 
and half-hitch it to the mast-head, or standing part ; then take 
the mast-head part under the top, (if on its edge, to the foremost 
side,) and seize it well to the foremost corner with a piece of small 
rope, through a hole bored for the purpose. Take the after girt- 
line, reeve it the same way through the after hole bored for the 
purpose in the after part of lubber's hole ; pass, and half-hitch it 
the same way as the fore one, and secure it with a good seizing 
of small rope, through another hole bored in the foremost corner. 
If the futtock holes will not take the girtlines, stop them with 
spun-yarn. The top should be so balanced in the girtlines, as 
to haug fair when the stops are cut. Reeve the other ends of 
the girtlines through the leading blocks ; man them, and sway 
up the top with the after girtline ; at the same time taking in 
the slack of the fore one. Have men stationed at the trestle-trees 
to bear off, cut the stops, and place. When the edge is clear of 
the cross-trees, cut the after stop and sway on both girtlines ; 
and when the foremost corner is well up, cut the stops ; the top 
will then hang in the girtlines, and can be easily placed. Shift 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 61 

the girtlines for the larboard half, get it up the same way, bolt 
and secure the top. Shift the girtlines on each side of the mast 
head, as they were before. A girtline from the mizenmast-head 
is sometimes bent to the foremost edge of the main-top, to assist 
in bearing off; (it can be dispensed with ;) a rope's end bent to the 
top and hauled well aft, will answer the same purpose. Half- 
tops may be swayed up, before the cross trees are sent aloft, and 
hung to the mast-head, one half on each side, swayed chock 
up ; then send up the cross-trees, and bolt them to the trestle- 
trees ; lower the half tops down on the cross-trees ; place and 
secure them as before. 

Note. — In cold weather it would be best to get the tops over 
before rigging the masts, in order to give the men a more secure 
place for standing while placing the rigging ; and in this case a 
derrick rigged on the top would be the best way to get the rig- 
ing over in a heavy ship. (If the topmast is pointed and swayed 
about six feet above the lower mast-head, it will make a good 
derrick for getting the lower rigging over.) 



HO.— GETTING UP TOP-BLOCKS, &c. 

Top-blocks are large single blocks, having iron straps, which 
are formed after being put round the block, into a large hook. 
Overhaul down the girtlines through lubber's hole ; bend one 
part through the sheave hole of the block, and stop it to the back 
part of the hook ; hoist it up, and lash it to the mast-head around 
the hook, with a lashing long enough to allow the block to hang 
half-mast-head high. Through this block reeve a hawser ; send 
the foremost end down through the square hole in the foremost 
part of the trestle-trees ; the after end through the lubber's hole 
through a leading block on deck, and round the capstan. 



111.— GETTING UP THE TOPMAST. 

Take two half-hitches through the fid-hole, with the foremost 
end of the hawser, and stop the hawser well round the hounds 
of the topmast with a good lashing. Man the capstan, and heave 
the mast up and down. Unbend the hawser, reeve it through 
the sheave-hole in the topmast; send a hauling line down 
through the trestle-trees for the end of the hawser, which haul 



62 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR , 

up and clinch round the lower mast-head over the block. Over- 
haul the girtlines down before all, and get the cap into the top. 

Note. — Pendant tackles may be used to a greater advantage 
than a hawser in pointing a topmast, when light handed. 



112.— GETTING THE CAP INTO THE TOP. 

Bend the foremost end of the girtlines, which were sent down 
before all, through the round hole in the cap, and stop them along 
to the after part of the square hole, keeping the bolts in the cap up* 
Man the girtlines and " sway away," bearing well off the fore part 
of the top. When high enough, lower, and place the round hole over 
the square hole in the trestle-trees. Sway the topmast well through 
and lash it securely to the cap ; put a capstan bar in the fid-hole 
with a hauling line on the end, and heave the topmast up ; 
when the cap is clear of the lower mast-head, haul on the line 
from the bar in the heel of the topmast, and it will slue the mast 
and bring the square hole of the cap over the lower masthead ; 
ship the cap-shore, then lower the hawser, or tackle, and place 
the cap, beating it into its place. Land the mast, unreeve the 
hawser, unlash the top blocks, and hook them to their proper 
bolts on each side of the cap ; reeve the hawser through one 
block, through the trestle-trees, through the sheave in the top-mast, 
up through trestle-trees again, and reeve the end through the 
foremost bolt in the cap on the opposite side of the block ; before 
reeving it through, parcel it well ; take two half-hitches on its 
own, or standing part, and secure the end with a round seiz- 
ing of spun-yarn. Bring the hawser to the capstan, heave the 
topmast up and try the fit ; (then lower away, get the topmast on 
deck, and try the other set) ; and then lower the mast for rigging. 
Secure the girtline blocks to eye-bolts in the cap, or to the top- 
mast cross-trees. 

Note. — The stop should be taken off the hounds of the topmast, 
directly it is pointed through the trestle-trees ; and when getting on 
deck, after it is landed, single the hawser the same as when get- 
ting up and down, and stop it to the hounds ; then have slip 
ropes on the heel to haul it forward or aft, whether fore or main, 
and place it on the chocks, for stowing on the Toooms. A fore- 
topmast is generally stowed with the head forward ; a main with 
the head aft ; both heads are sometimes stowed forward, a prac- 
tice that is frequently adopted at the present day. 

* The object of keeping the bolts up in getting the cap into the top, is, that they 
may not catch on the top rim and cause delay, and perhaps injury. (It is not 
intended to be shipped so.) 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 63 



113.— TURNING IN DEAD-EYES. 

If in the loft, get the length from the mast-head to the deck, 
from the draft, if the masts are not stepped, and place the dead- 
eye to that length, making due allowance for stretching in set- 
ting up. Turn the dead-eye in as near the end as possible, so 
that all parts of the shroud may be equally stretched, which will 
prevent its having a gouty end. 

The principal caution is to keep the lay in the rope, as it pre- 
vents the wet getting in. If the shroud is to be wormed, and 
served in the wake of the dead-eye, the worming should not 
be hove in too taut, as breaking the shroud round the dead-eye 
would probably snap it. 

The score being well tarred, the end of the shroud is taken un- 
derneath, round the dead-eye, inside standing, or mast-head part : 
a bolt is put in a hole of the dead-eye. Take a good strand, knot 
both ends together ; it is then middled and crossed round the end 
of the shroud ; both bights are taken round the bolt, one on each 
side of the dead-eye, and a smaller bolt put in each bight, which 
are hove round the large bolt in the dead-eye. As the turns ac- 
cumulate, it heaves the shroud taut round. The dead-eye should 
be secured through one of the holes with spun yarn to the shroud 
before heaving, where the shroud is marked, for the lower part. 
When the dead-eye is turned in, in a loft, the shroud is hove in 
with a jigger, (or dead-eye machine). 

When the shroud is hove well round, pass a good throat-seiz- 
ing. When secured, take out the bolts, get a small jigger, hook 
one end to a strap round the end of the shroud, and the other to 
the mast-head part ; take a good strand, knot both ends together, 
take it round the end and standing or masthead part ; put a bolt 
in both bights, and heave it round, pulling up the jigger at the 
same time ; this will bring the end taut up, as heaving on the 
strap brings both parts close together; then pass a round, or 
quarter seizing, and a smaller one on the end. 

If the rigging is turned in on shore, keep the lay in the rope, 
and when sent out of the loft, to be placed on the mast-head, keep 
the ends inside, the shrouds being marked with a knot or a piece 
of spun-yarn, according to the number. The ends will lay aft 
on one side, and forward on the other ; this is of importance and 
should be remembered. 

Turning in dead-eyes, termed Cutter stay-fashion. — The 
dead-eye being placed to the mark, the end is passed round it as 
before, but instead of being secured Avith a throat-seizing, the enr 1 
is passed round the standing-part and seized to the part roun<< 
the dead-eye with a round-seizing, and another on the enn 
further round the dead-eye. The same precaution as in t) 
other way, keep the lay in the rope and end inside. 



64 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Note. — Worming and serving shrouds in the wake of the dead- 
eyes is not a common practice in all ships, but I would recom- 
mend it as a great preservative to the shrouds, if they w^ere served 
at least six feet above the dead-eyes. I have known of many 
gangs of rigging condemned on account of the shrouds being 
magged and chafed in the wake of the dead-eyes and throat-seiz- 
ing, for want of service, when all other parts of the shrouds were 
found to be good. 



114.— GETTING TOPMAST CROSSTREES OVER. 

Overhaul a girtline through the round hole in the cap ; and 
if they are to go up from the starboard side, overhaul and send 
it down, and the after girtline outside the top ; hitch that through 
the round hole in the cap, well out on the starboard foremost 
horns underneath, and secure .the end with a good seizing of 
spun-yarn ; the after one bend on in the same way, to the after 
starboard horn ; then stop both girtlines well with spun-yarn, 
close to the trestle-trees, and also with two stops, on the larboard 
horns ; " sway away ;" having a guy from the deck to clear it 
of the top, as it goes aloft. When the upper, or larboard horns 
are well clear of the cap, take two rope's ends from the larboard 
side of the top, and bend them to the larboard horns, and man 
them in the top — these are called " steadying lines," and are used 
to prevent the crosstrees falling back, if a stop is cut too soon, 
and to assist in getting the crosstrees on the cap, and over the 
mast-head. " Sway higher," cutting the stops, and hauling on 
the steadying lines. When the trestle-trees are as high up as 
possible on the cap, haul on the steadying lines, and cut the stops 
close to the trestle-trees on the starboard side, and the crosstrees 
will fall across the cap ; then place the after hole between the 
trestle-trees, over the round hole in the cap — cast off the girtlines 
and steadying lines — white-lead the mast-head in the wake of the 
crosstrees, and sway the topmast through ; beat the crosstrees 
well down on the mast-head ; and when placed, sway the top- 
mast a few feet higher for rigging. Pass a lashing through the 
fid-hole, and round the lower mast, to steady it. 

The topmasts are sometimes ridded before rigging, to avoid the 
greater strain upon the top tackles. If a topmast has only one 
sheave (like a mizen topmast), it is a good precaution to reeve a 
hawser through the fid-hole, and haul it taut, as the mast goes 
aloft ; unreeving it only when the mast is high enough for fid- 
ding, or previous to the squares entering the trestle-trees. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



6S 




115.— PLACING TOPMAST RIGGING. 

Tar the masthead in the wake of the rigging ; send the bol- 
sters aloft, and stop them. After the bolsters are on, put over 
first the mast-head pendants — then the span for ginn blocks ; 
then follows the straps, with thimble in for standing part of 
the tyes — next, first pair of shrouds on the starboard side, then 
the larboard ; and so on, until all are over ; then lash the breast 
backstay (if single); if a pair, put them over the same as a 
shroud ; next the after backstays ; lash the stays, if fitted for it, 
if not, put them over the same as lower stays, with mousings. 
The collars of the stays go between the cross-trees, and lash over 
the after one. Some prefer chain spans. The most approved 
method is an iron plate, with a hook on each end, which lays 
across the trestle-trees. 



116.— TO SEIZE-IN THE SISTEE-BLOCKS. 



There is a score on each side to take the shroud, and three 
scores for seizing — one on each end, and one between both 
sheaves. They are seized-in the length of the hanging block, 
from the eye-seizing, to prevent any risk of the reef-tackle and 
lift being jammed between the hanging blocks and the rigging — 



66 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

one seizing is passed round the shrouds, above the block, another 
below the block ; and a small seizing put on each score, round 
the block and shrouds. The topsail-lift leads through the lower 
sheave, and reef tackle through the upper one. 

The larboard block should be seized-in once the diameter of 
the shroud lower than the other, as, if both are seized alike 
(the starboard shroud going over first) they would not be square 
when the rigging is placed. 



117 .—BACKSTAYS, (BREAST,) 

When in pairs, are fitted with eyes, the same as the shrouds, 
and served sufficiently far down to be square with the service of 
the topmast shrouds. They are also parceled and served in the 
way of the lower yards, when braced up. When there is only 
one backstay it is secured round the mast-head with a lashing 
passed round it, through an eye spliced in ;* they are set up to a 
treble block in the channels. Through these blocks a fall is 
rove, the standing part being spliced into the strap of the double 
block, and then led from the treble block through a fair leader in 
the side, in on deck. 

Note. — I have seen ships without breast backstays on any 
mast, and they carried sail equally well with those who had them ; 
one was the Independence razee : her breast backstays were con- 
verted into standing ones, and set up a little further aft, or imme- 
diately forward of the proper standing backstays. 

Breast backstays are generally pulled up in stays when the 
ship is head to wind, having a quarter-watch of topmen stationed 
by them. If they should be set up too taut, whch may be the 
case, especially when the rigging is slack, they are likely to snap 
and endanger the mast by the sudden jerk ; if not set up enough, 
they can be of no use, and are only an additional weight on the 
mast-heads, and a useless expenditure of rope. Their being set 
up to bear an equal strain with the rigging, will not occur with 
the greatest care once in a year, and I consider them particularly 
injurious on top-gallant-masts. A good stout standing backstay 
is the main support. 



* Some are fitted with a cut splice. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 67 

1 1 8.— STANDING AFTER-BACKSTAYS, 

When in pairs, are fitted with an eye the same 
as topmost rigging. When an odd one on each 
side, they are fitted with a horse shoe. They 
are now fitted the same size as lower rigging. 

The backstays are set up with a lanyard rove 
through dead-eyes, the same as shrouds, having 
service in the wake of the lower yards and tops. 



119.— MAIN TOPMAST STAY 

Is fitted of the same size as the standing back- 
stay. A large clump block is strapped round the 
foremast head, over the eyes of the rigging, and 
immediately over the square hole in the after 
part of the trestle-trees. Through this block 
the main topmast stay is rove down, through the 
trestle-trees — has a thimble turned in the end, 
lanyard spliced and rove through it, and set up 
to a span shackle in the deck, abaft the foremast, 
for the purpose ; or a large bull's-eye hooked to 
an eye-bolt, and set up on the end. 

The spring stay leads through a block strap- 
•ped round the foremast above the cat-harpens, 
and sets up in the fore-top. 



120.— MIZEN TOPMAST STAY 

Is rove through a thimble strapped round the 
mainmast-head, over the eyes of the rigging ; 
and when set up, is secured to its own part with 
round seizings. If preferred, it can be set up with 
a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard 
rove through it; but this is not necessary. 
When the stays are well stretched, the thimbles 
can be spliced in, but it is not a good plan ; for, 
should it be necessary to unreeve, the splice must 
be drawn, which will injure the rope. I have 
seen them fitted in this way, and pointed over 



68 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

for neatness, — but prefer their being turned in, and the end 
pointed or capped. 

Note. — There is no mizen topmast spring-stay. 



121.— GETTING THE TOPMAST CAPS ON. 

The girtline blocks should be lashed well up to the topmast 
head. Overhaul down before all the foremost ends, and secure 
them to the foremost bolts in the cap ; stop them to the centre 
ones, and also to the square hole in the after part ; sway the cap 
up ; — when well up, cut the after stops, sway higher, and the cap 
can be easily placed by the man aloft, and girtlines cast off. 

If the cap should be very heavy, use a derrick ; a capstan bar 
will answer the purpose. 

Note. — Ship the capshore the same time you place the cap. 



122.— MAST-HEAD MAN ROPES, &c. &c. 

A piece of rope has an eye spliced in one end, and several over- 
handed knots made on the bight, at equal distances from each 
other. They should be long enough to reach a third down the 
topmast rigging, and seized round the mast-head close to the cap ; 
one on each side is sufficient. They are absolutely necessary in 
large ships, and should be on all. 

I have seen them in some very neat ships ; and, when it is re- 
collected the small space the men have for their feet when they get 
near the crosstrees, and the long mast-head, to get On the cap, it 
is certainly worth while to sacrifice something in the way of ap- 
pearance to ensure the safety of a man's life. 

Some large ships have ladders with two steps, set up to the 
eyes of the topmast rigging, from the cap ; also, spans and grab- 
ropes fitted, to go from the swifters abreast of the cap, which will 
be found very convenient for the topmen, when exercising sails. 
These may appear trifling matters to some, but ships fitted with 
them are generally ahead, when exercising in a squadron. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 69 



123.— TOP TACKLE PENDANTS, &c. 

When cut to the required length, a thimble, well parceled, is 
spliced into one end, and the other pointed, with a becket in it. 
There are two to the fore, and two to the main topmasts. In the 
heel of each topmast there is a dumb sheave ; — take one pendant 
and reeve it through the top block, hooked to the cap, through 
the trestle-trees, through the dumb sheave, or heel-block, through 
an eye-bolt in the foremost part of the cap, on the opposite side 
to the block ; take two half-hitches, and secure the end to its 
own part, with a spun-yarn seizing ; hook the top tackle block 
to the thimble in the pendant, and the lower one, to a bolt in the 
deck for the purpose ; reeve the fall through a leader, and bring it 
to the capstan : heave well taut, and unreeve the hawser by which 
the mast was formerly hove up for rigging. 

The other pendant reeves through the other top-block, through 
the sheave hole in the topmast, and clenched to the other eye- 
bolt in the fore corner of the cap ; hook the blocks, reeve and 
bring the fall to the capstan, taking the other off, and manning 
it well. When no capstan, both falls must be well-manned by 
hand. 

Top Tackle Falls and Blocks. — The upper block is double, 
strapped, which is made into a hook ; the lower is also double, 
and should be iron-strapped, having a swivel ; a single one is 
hooked near the double as a leading block ; the fall is rove ; the 
standing part hitched, or clenched, over the block ; they are some- 
times spliced in, and some have beckets. 

To hook the double block, clap a single tail-block well up on 
the pendant, reeve a whip through it, hitch one end of the whip 
through one of the sheaves of the double block, hoist it up, and 
hook it to the pendant. 



124.— PREP ARLNG TO FID THE TOPMASTS. 

Capshores should be stepped and secured, luff tackles clapped 
on all the stays and backstays. Lower blocks should not be hook- 
ed on to the lanyards, but to bolts in the deck, and eye-bolts or 
straps in the chains ; capstans and falls manned, topmast rigging 
quite clear, and hove over the sides of the tops, and the topmasts 
hove up and Added, mast stayed, rigging set up $°c. 



70 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

125.— RATTLING THE LOWER AND TOPMAST RIG 

GING. 

Cat-harpen legs and futtock shrouds are seized-on and set up ; 
topmast stayed, rigging and backstays set up, lanyards secured 
as lower rigging, — then commence rattling down. 

Girt the rigging with three fore and aft swifters — one by the 
shear rail, and the others at equal distances, as follows : — Make 
one end of a small rope fast round the foremost shroud, take a 
turn round the next, then the third, and so on, until all are taken 
in ; then back the same way, and half-hitch it round the first. 
The swifter should be just taut, and not so as to bring the 
shrouds together, — the object being to make the ratlines a little 
tauter when let go. Sometimes swifters are not used, but the rat- 
lines are never so square, or look well. Care should be taken that 
they are not too taut, for, when let go, all the strain will come 
on the seizing in the eyes of the ratlines, and they will be con- 
stantly snapping. Two swifters on each side are sufficient for 
the topmast rigging. 

Spar the rigging down, with spare spars, such as studding-sail 
yards, boat's oars, boat's masts, handspikes, or anything light 
that will answer, and seize them to the shrouds on the outside, 
at equal distances, leaving sufficient space for three or four rat- 
lines between each spar. 

A coil of small well-stretched rope is placed on each side of the 
deck, two or three on a side when required to be done quick. 
Splice an eye in one end of the rattling stuff, seize it to the first 
shroud, and then commence clove-hitching on the second, and so 
on to the after, but one ; then measure the distance from that to 
the last, cut it off, and splice an eye in the end. Beat the hitches 
well round each shroud, seize the end to the foremost one, and 
also the other eye to the after one, and rattle up, taking the shear 
of the rails. The hitches are formed on the outside, and at equal 
distances ; in three or four places take a ratline to the after swift- 
er ; — these are called shear ratlines. 

When it is necessary to rattle quick, take three ends up at a 
time. Fifteen inches is a good distance between the ratlines, and 
their places should be chalked off all the w^ay up and down before 
commencing. Each man employed should have a measure within 
his reach, and care should be taken to make the ratlines on one 
side correspond in a parallel direction with those of the other. 
This can only be seen from the outside of the ship. Make the 
hitches neat, and the eyes small ; few things tend more to a snug 
appearance. 

If the rigging is to be blacked, after rattling down ; it is best to 
leave the spars on until that is done, taking them off as you 
black down 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. J\ 



126,— FUTTOCK-STAVES IN TOPMAST RIGGING 

Are iron bolts parceled and served ; are seized to the shrouds 
the length of the hounds, doAvn on the inside ; seizings passed as 
in lower rigging. 

Cat-harpen legs on topmast rigging. — Take the length from 
the starboard foremost shroud round the mast, and to the after 
one on the same side ; get a piece of rope this length, splice an 
eye in each end, worm, parcel, and serve it. There are two on 
each mast. Seize the foremost end to the foremost shroud and 
futtock stave, take it round the mast and seize it to the after one ; 
secure one to the larboard side in the same manner. 

I have seen them go from the foremost starboard shroud, 
straight to the after larboard one, crossing abaft the mast. They 
are also fitted to set up with thimbles and a lanyard, abaft the 
mast. When this is done, both eyes are seized to the futtock 
staves on the starboard side, a thimble seized in the bight, and 
set up abaft the mast to the larboard one, with a lanyard fitted 
in the same way. (Vessels with chain topsail ties are fitted with 
iron bands, to go round the mast, with eyes for the topgallant 
rigging to lead through.) 



127.— TO RIG THE JIB-BOOM. 

Hoist the jib-boom on board by the hawser or tackle, which was 
left at the foremast head when getting on board the fore topmast, 
run the end out on the bowsprit, pointing it through the stays 
and bowsprit cap. Reeve the heel-rope, and sway the jib-boom 
out a foot or two beyond the cap. Reeve the jib-stay through 
the hanks, traveller if required, and then through the inner 
sheave-hole, in the boom end, martingale and necklace, and turn 
a double block in the inner end; reeve the lanyard or fall 
through this, and a single block bolted to the bows. To the 
traveler seize the jib downhaul blocks and traveling guys ; tar 
the boom end, put a grommet over, to which seize the fore top- 
gallant bowline blocks, one on each side. 

Foot ropes. — There is one on each side of the jib-boom. They 
should be long enough when in their place to allow a man to 
stand navel-high along the boom, and are fitted as follows : take 
a piece of rope long enough to make both ; cut it in the centre 
and splice one end into the other with a cut splice, forming an 
eye to fit the jib-boom end. Four or five overhand knots are 
taken at equal distances on the rope, from the eye, according to 



72 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the length of the foot-rope ; the knots are for the purpose of pre 
venting the men from slipping. In each end splice a small eye. 
large enough to take a lashing, by which they are set up to bolts 
in the bowsprit cap. An eye is sometimes made by taking a 
round turn round the boom end, and two seizings passed. Also 
with a span, horse-shoe fashion, and neatly covered with canvass. 

Note. — Turk's-heads worked through the strands, may be sub- 
stituted for knots on the foot-ropes, if time will permit. 



128.— JIB-BOOM MARTINGALE STAY 

Is a short rope, with an eye in each end to fit the jib-boom, and 
end of the dolphin-striker. The eyes are well served, and cov- 
ered with canvass or leather. The martingale is wormed, and 
a small twine seizing (snaked) put on round the worming at 
equal distances between the eyes; three, or four, according to 
the length, which must depend on the way the dolphin-striker 
is intended to stand, or rake. It looks best when perpendicular 
to cap or jackstaff. 

Chain is sometimes used for the purpose, as also for back-ropes ; 
and is found to answer well, it not bemg liable to^stretch. 



129.— JIB-BOOM GUYS. 

There is one pair on each side ; an eye is made to fit the boom 
end by passing a round seizing, when in their place ; both ends 
are rove through thimbles on each yard-arm of spritsail yard 
(when crossed). Then brought in and both ends set up to bull's 
eyes in the bow, or fitted with tackles. 

Placing the rigging on the jib-boom.. — First, the foot-ropes; 
next, the martingale stay, and guys. In some ships, an iron 
grummet is fitted with an eye on top and one underneath, neatly 
leathered, and put over the boom-end first. The martingale stay 
is hooked to the underneath eye, the jib-tack and downhaul to 
the upper one. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 73 

130.— MARTINGALE BACK-ROPES 

Are pendants, middled and served in the centre, the round of 
the dolphin striker, both parts crossed and secured with a throat 
seizing. The service should be long enough to take in the seiz- 
ing. In the ends splice a single or double block ; another single 
one is strapped into a bolt in the bow for the purpose, or fitted in 
a strap with a hook and thimble (hook moused). A gun tackle, 
or lufi L purchase, is then rove, the standing part of the fall spliced 
round the pendant, in after end of the block, rove through the one 
in the bow, over the head rails, back through the one in the pen- 
dant, and through a fair leading sheave, in the forecastle bulwark. 
These falls, after being pulled up, are racked together outside the 
bulwark. If belayed on the forecastle, they should be seized to 
their next part, so as not to be let go by mistake. 



131.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON A DOLPHIN- 
STRIKER. 

Back-ropes first, and next the martingale ; below this rigging, 
in the end of the dolphin-striker, are two or three sheaves, and 
one close above it, large enough to admit the jib-stay, which is 
rove through it ; flying jib-stay in the next sheave, and flying 
martingale stay under all, which will show two ropes leading 
from each boom end, to the dolphin-striker. 



132.— GETTING THE JIB-BOOM OUT. 

The flying jib-boom iron is driven on ; the heel rope manned 
(if rigged), and the boom hauled out. The heel strap is placed 
in a score in the heel for the purpose, and both bights lashed to- 
gether ; then another lashing passed round the strap, between 
the boom and the bowsprit, and the strap well flapped together. 
The heel being well secured, set up the back ropes and guys. 

Note. — Rigging to be placed same as jib-boom. 



74 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

133.— SENDING UP TOPGALLANT MASTS. 

The topgallant top blocks being hooked, we will suppose the 
long mast rope is to be rove, from the starboard side of the top- 
mast-cap ; take the end through the square hole in the fore part 
of the trestle-trees, half-hitch it through the fid-hole, and stop it 
round the hounds, and the royal mast-head ; send the hauling 
part through lubber's hole, and through a leading block or sheave 
on deck. The topgallant rigging is fitted on a sheet-iron cylinder 
or funnel, attached to the jack cross-trees (by an order from the 
former Navy Commissioners), leathered and painted on the outside, 
and tarred on the inside ; put on the grommet or strap for the 
main royal stay* to reeve through, then put on the topgallant and 
flying jib-stays, starboard and larboard shrouds, breast and stand- 
ing backstays, and secure them over the funnel ; overhaul the girt- 
lines down on deck, and bend them on to the rigging, around all 
parts, about the length of the mast-head below the jack, and a 
good stop through the funnel ; hoist the funnel up and place it, 
with the rigging on, over the hole in the cap, and take the stays 
forward and reeve them. 

Man the mast-ropes and " sway away," having men stationed to 
bear off and place the rigging or funnel. When pointed through 
the funnel, place the royal rigging and truck, reeve the signal 
halyards, and attach the conductor ; " sway higher," land the 
mast on the top or forepart of lower mast-cap, and, if required, 
reeve the short mast rope ; reeve the pointed end through a block 
hooked to the cap on the larboard side, or the sheave, then through 
the trestle-trees, through the sheave-hole in the topgallant-mast. 
up through the trestle-trees, and secure the end to the foremost 
bolt in the cap, with two half-hitches, and seize the end ; to the 
thimble in the other end, hook the double block of a burton ; hook 
the single one to a strap round the trestle-trees ; send the burton 
fall on deck through lubber's hole, and lead it through a single 
leading block, and haul it taut ; unreeve the long mast rope, and 
fid the mast ; when the fid is in, the mast rope can be unrove, if 
wished. 

Reeve the ends of the shrouds through the homs of the cross- 
trees, between the to ( jmast rigging, over the futtock staves, and 
tuin a thimble in ea ;h end ; strap another round a futtock plate, 
inside the dead-eye > of top-mast rigging ; if there is none placed 
in the top, splice a lanyard into that in each shroud, and take two 
or three turns thr mgh each, stay the mast, and set the rigging 
and backstays uj 1 . 

In setting up' he backstays the single block of the jigger, which 
is hooked to the thimble, is hooked to a blackwall hitch, in the lan- 



* Suppose this to be the fore topgallant-mast. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 75 

yard, and when set up, expend the lanyard through the thimbles, 
and seize the ends. On both shrouds on each side clap on small 
jiggers, hook the double blocks to straps on the shrouds, the sin- 
gle to Blackwall hitches in the lanyards, and set up and secure 
the same as the backstays. 

The fore topgallant stay reeves through the outer sheave-hole 
in the jib-boom, and through a bull's-eye hooked to the bows, 
and when set up, is seized to its own part. 

The main topgallant stay is rove through the middle sheave 
in the after chock of the fore topmast crosstress, or through a 
block strapped around the fore mast-head, and set up in the 
fore top. 

The mizen topgallant stay is rove through a bull's-eye in the 
after part of the main cap, and set up in the main top. 



134.— ROYAL RIGGING. 



There is one breast, and after backstay on each side, seized as 
the after backstays on topgallant masts. The breast backstay 
or shroud, is pulled up with a gun tackle purchase ;* the after leg 
has a thimble turned in, and sets up in the after part of the 
chains, with a lanyard. 

Royal stays. — As there is no funnel (although it would be a 
great advantage to have one), splice an eye in the stay to fit the 
mast-head, cover it, and serve over the splice. It goes on next 
to the grommet, then the shroud and backstays, spanned together. 

The fore royal stay is rove through the outer sheave-hole in 
the flying jib-boom end, and pulled up through a fair leader on 
the forecastle. 

The main royal stay is rove through a thimble stopped around 
the foretop gallant mast-head, through another strapped round 
the eye of a shroud, and when set up is seized to its own part. 

Mizen royal stay reeves through a sheave in the after part of the 
main topmast trestle-trees, through a thimble strapped round the 
eye of a main shroud, and seized to its own part. 



* Royal-backstays are set up with a jigger to their respective places in the 
channels. The shrouds are set up in the top(breast-backstay-fashion. 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



135.— SHORT AND LONG TOPGALLANT MAST-ROPES. 

Short m,ast ropes have a thimble spliced in one end, and 
the other end pointed. They are rove when the mast is rigged, 
and are used for ridding. They should be sufficiently long (when 
the mast is landed on the top or cap), after being rove through 
the block and sheave in the heel of the mast, and clenched to 
the cap, to allow the thimble to hang clear of the cat-harpen legs. 

If the topsail-yard is crossed, the mast is landed on it, for rig 
ging ; if the topgallant-mast should be too long to allow its be- 
ing landed on the yard, the mast rope must be lengthened ac- 
cordingly. 

Long mast ropes. — Ropes are often fitted for the purpose ; but 
the topgallant yard rope is generally used. I have seen them 
fitted as follows, and they answered very well : — 

The rope is rove, and stopped to the topgallant-masthead, and 
royal sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the upper stop, to 
hitch to the bolt, before cutting the stops. To prevent the rope 
slipping, rack both parts together above the sheave-hole in the 
heel of the mast. 



136.— TO RIG THE FLYING JIB-BOOM. 

Sway it on board and point it through the iron at the jib-boom 
end. A tail block is put on the neck of the iron, or on the jib- 
stay, close down to the boom. Through this block reeve the heel 
rope, one end taken in on the forecastle, and the other bent to the 
heel of the boom. A rope is bent to the heel of the boom to 
serve as a guy ; sway the boom out a foot or two for rigging. 
Put over the foot ropes, fitted as the jib-boom, the inner ends 
seized to the jib-boom end, inside the iron. The martingale, 
when single, is secured round the boom end, clenched, spliced, or 
with a running eye, rove through a sheave in the dolphin-striker, 
and in on the forecastle, on the opposite side to the royal stay. 
When double, a single block is strapped round the boom end, and 
the standing part spliced round the dolphin-striker ; hauling part 
as when single. 

Guys. — One on each side spliced into each other, forming a 
cut-splice to fit the boom end. The other end rove through 
thimbles, strapped round the spritsail yard, through fair leaders 
in the bulwarks, and pulled up on the forecastle, or set up on the 
bows. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 77 

Man the heel rope and get the boom out ; the heel is placed in 
a step formed on the fore side of the bowsprit cap, for the purpose, 
and secured with a lashing, rove through the end, and passed 
round the jib-boom. Set up the martingale, stay the fore topgal- 
lant and royal mast, (fore and aft,) by the stays and backstays ; 
and if the spritsail yard is crossed, reeve the guys, turn in thim- 
bles, and set them up. 



137.— SPRITS AIL LIFTS 

Are single ; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm ; 
splices served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through 
the bull's-eye in the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are 
sometimes strapped into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. 
Bolts are often driven into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts 
led through ; when this is done, they are generally set up there 
with lanyards and thimbles, spliced into the end, which answers 
every purpose. 



138.— SPRITSAIL BRACES. 

A single block is strapped in toa bolt in the cheek of the fore- 
mast on each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the 
yard arm ; the other is rove through the single block, on collar of 
fore-stay, and another single block is spliced into the end ; a luflf 
tackle purchase is rove with it, and a double block on the deck, 
one sheave answering for a leading one. 

They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is getting out 
of date. 



139.— STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRIT- 
SAIL YARDS. 

The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being 
placed round the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a 
round seizing passed between the thimble and the yard; the 
splices laying in the upper side of the score in the thimbles. 



78 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long splice, in the strap for 
neatness. 

The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair 
with the yard for the jib guys to lead through ; if single, they 
would stand fore and aft. 



140.— CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD. 

The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows : 
Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay ; 
to it hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a haw- 
ser ; reeve it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quarter of 
the spritsail yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along 
to the larboard quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard- 
arm. Overhaul doAvn the lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping 
the larboard yard-arm under the bowsprit ; when clear on the 
larboard side, put over the brace, or block, and lift, and haul out ; 
when nearly out, or before clear of the head rails, put over the 
starboard brace or block and lift ; haul on the hawser, starboard 
lift, and brace, and cast off the stops. When sufficiently out, 
pass the parrel, take a turn or hold well on the end; hook the 
tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser- and unreeve it ; 
reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, 
turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the 
bows ; set all up taut and square the yard. 



141.— TWO HALF SPRITSAIL YARDS. 

Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are se- 
cured to the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the 
bowsprit, with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in 
any required direction. When the half spiritsail yard is carried 
it is rigged as follows : — 

The fore guys are made of well stretched rope, and equal in 
strength to the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial 
eye to fit the jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be 
wormed with small rope, parceled and served, or covered in the 
eyes ; four stranded rope is preferable, it being not so liable to 
stretch as three. 

The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to 
fit the yard arm, and a thimble spliced into the other. They are 
the same size as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 79 

If made on purpose, and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the 
bight with a round seizing. • 

The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only 
shorter ; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be 
given to the yard arm, which should never be less than the sprit- 
sail yard, when well braced up, or, in other words, canted. 

The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, 
next, the foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set 
up to a bolt by the cat-head, well down; the lower, to an eye- k 
bolt in each side of the cutwater, well out. 

For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed 
with twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on 
purpose, can have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope 
walk. Some fit forward and after guys all in one. 



142.— WHISKERS. 

Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves 
in them for the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore 
chains, the same as when rove through the spritsail yard. This 
plan is much in use in small vessels, but the boom is supported 
almost entirely by the martingale, as the guys being considerably 
above the boom, and its always topping up, when the sail is set 
on a wind, the more wind the greater the strain on the martin- 
gale ; and should the guys be not carefully pulled up, the boom 
must depend on the martingale entirely for support. 



143.— TO GET ON BOARD AND RIG LOWER YARDS. 

Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the 
slings of the yard, and get them nearly up and down ; clap sel- 
vagees on the quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As 
it comes on board, cut the stops, easing away on the pendant 
tackle, and bousing on the other, until the yard is at h wart-ships ; 
place chocks in the hammock nettings for the yard to rest on ; 
slue them fair, and lash them ; come up the tackles, cast off the 
hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of the yard to prevent 
its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit a 
saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece of well 
stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass, 
and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, 
and fit the straps for the preventer slings, &c, &c, &c. 

Note. — The iron sling-bands are now used instead of the old 
fashioned D thimble. 



80 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the 
service for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. 
(See Rigging Table.) 



144.— TRUSS STRAPS. 

A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a 
double strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and 
served over ; the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, 
the splice laying in the score. The strap should be long enough 
to go round the yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together 
on the fore side. There are two on each yard. One thimble is 
seized inside the truss pendant, the other outside j- and one in the 
round of the pendant higher up than the other. 



145.— TRUSS PENDANTS* 

I 

Are wormed, parceled, and served ; an eye is spliced in one 
end large enough to take the pendant when rove through it ; in 
the other an artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single 
block for truss fall. The pendant should be rove through the 
small eye before the artificial one is made, boused well taut round 
the yard, the eye being kept underneath, and one pendant higher 
than the other. Reeve the upper pendant through the upper 
thimble, and lower pendant through lower thimble. Being rove 
in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of each other. 

Hide rope is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss 
is now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclu- 
sive. (New regulation). 



146.— QUARTER BLOCKS— LOWER YARDS. 

Quarter or topsail sheet blocks are large single blocks, with 
double straps ; the block seized in with a round seizing, and se- 
cured round the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a 
rose-lashing passed through both bights on the top of the yard. 



* For length and size, see Rigging Table. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 81 

Before the lashing is passed, the block should be hove up with 
heavers, and the eyes of the strap brought as close together as 
possible. This is done with a good strand passed through both, 
and hove up with a Spanish windlass. Vessels carrying chain top- 
sail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the iron bands in the slings 
of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging Table). 



147.— CLEW GARNET BLOCKS 

Are single ; seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in 
each end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the 
same as the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some 
ships have all the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater. 

Note. — Iron bound blocks are allowed to all classes of vessels 
in the navy, by the new regulation, for this purpose. 



148.— LIFT BLOCKS— LOWER YARDS 

Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing; 
the strap being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the 
block is seized in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice 
should lay in the score of the block, or upper side ; but a grum- 
met will answer equally as well, and look snugger. 



149.— FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS. 

The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard, 
(excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced 
in one end ; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The 
splicing served in the way of chafing (one- third) midship part. 

Stirrups are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope ; 
eyes spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts ; 
splices served over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and 
made into plait, and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, 
having a small piece of hide or leather placed under their heads 
before being driven into the yard. Going over the jackstay bolts 
6 



82 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

is preferable ; and some seize it to the neck of the bolt, or staple. 
They hang on the after side of all yards. 

Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, 
and seized to the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, es- 
pecially in vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better 
opportunity to stand. 



150.— JACKST AYS.— BENDING AND REEFING. 

Take a piece of rope of the proper size,* cut off the length of 
the yard, splice an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, sufnciently 
taut to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a 
.thimble in each end ; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a- 
half, marl down, and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, 
(which should always be the case when the sail is reefed to one), 
the large one, before splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the 
eye-bolts on the yard for the purpose ; this is the reefing jackstay. 
The bending one is fitted the same way, and after being put over 
the yard arm, is seized to the neck of the bolts on the after side. 

This plan has been generally adopted, as it was found much 
easier to reef, than when fitted with only one jackstay ; there be- 
ing always difficulty and delay in getting the points between the 
jackstay and the yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only 
one jackstay, it is rove through the eye-bolts. 

Note. — Iron bending jackstays are now allowed for all vessels 
in the navy. 



151.— BRACE BLOCKS.— LOWER YARDS. 

The straps should be fitted sufficiently taut to require being 
being driven on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one 
within the other, called lock thimbles. Take a piece of rope, of 
the proper size, and cut it long enough to go round one thimble 
and the yard, when spliced together ; worm, parcel and serve it, 
and pass a round seizing round this strap, close to the thimble. 
Grommet straps are preferable, if time will permit. 

The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap 
take a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends to- 



* For the length and size of rope, see Rigging Table. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 83 

gether ; worm, parcel, and serve it ; reeve it through the thimble 
already strapped, and pass both parts round the score of the other 
thimble ; then place both bights in the scores in the brace block, 
keeping the splice in the after end of the block ; pass a round 
seizing between the block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as 
in a double strap. 

Cross-jack brace-blocks are single, and strapped the same as 
lower ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in 
the main rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. 
When reeving the cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is 
clinched, spliced, or half-hitched, and the end seized, just below 
the block ; then rove through the block on the yard, through the 
inside sheave in double block, and through a fair leading sheave 
in a rack, in the side or a leading block. I have seen blocks 
strapped into bolts on the main-mast, for the brace and bowline, 
which answered well. The brace block should be put on the 
yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast backstays, when 
braced up. 

Note. — These braces should be well below the yard, as it al- 
ways tops up on the wind, which slacks the weather leech ; this 
is partly the reason a mizen-topsail never stands well. 



152.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS. 

Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the 
topsail sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps ; if the 
rigging is all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed on 
each side ; if not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. 
I have seen them both ways, but inside is preferable. 

Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the 
wake of the rigging, first jackstay ; if two, the bending one, and 
set it up amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes ; after 
going over the yard arm, and rove through the stirrups, they are 
lashed together, with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and 
are secured with a good seizing to the strap of quarter block. 
Then the brace, and lift blocks. Rolling tackle straps on the 
inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft burton straps on the 
outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard. 

If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put 
over before the jackstay is rove. 

The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard 
tackle straps; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the 
yard-arm, are put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for 
the mizen-topsail sheets, on the forward side of the yard. 



84 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

153.— GETTING UP JEER-BLOCKS, AND REEVING 

JEERS. 

Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap. 
Send the two foremost ends through lubber's hole down on deck ; 
bend them through the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, 
and seize the end. Stop them along each leg of the strap, the 
larboard whip to the larboard leg, and the starboard whip to the 
starboard leg; then stop both legs together with a seizing of 
spun-yarn in the bights — the hauling part of the whips being 
through lubber's hole and through a leading block on deck ; man 
them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of the 
top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will 
bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. 
Then cut the upper stops, on the whips ; take a turn and pass 
the lashing in the bight, securing each end to their next part. 
When secured, let go, and take off the whips. 

Reeving jeers. — The standing part is clenched round the strap 
of the upper block, rove through the one on the yard, up through 
another sheave in upper block, and so on, until all rove full. 
The hauling part is rove through a leading sheave, in fore -or 
main bitts, or through leading blocks. Wlien heaving up, they 
are either brought to the capstan, or manned by hand. 

The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they 
can be got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few 
ships are seen to carry their jeers up in their proper places. 



154.— LOWER LIFT BLOCKS 

Are double ; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the 
main or fore cap ; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow 
side toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or horn, 
an eye is turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes 
being turned, I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the cres- 
cent and cap, and secured underneath with a nut ; a thimble is 
also put in the eye-bolt, and the blocks strapped in. 

The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can 
be fitted as the fore or main, or (a chalk) abaft the mast-head, if 
preferred, for neatness. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. #5 



155.— REEVING LOWER LIFTS. 

Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the other 
end up and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double 
block in the fore or main cap, then through the block on the 
yard, through the other sheave in the double block, and through 
lubber's hole on deck ; well up this part, splice a lizard for jigger 
tackle, or use tails selvageed on the end. The upper block of 
the jigger can be spliced or turned in to the lift, if preferred. 

The cross jack lifts go over the yard arms with an eye 
spliced in the end to fit them. The other end is rove through 
the block at the cap, and is set up with two thimbles and a lan- 
yard in the top ; one thimble being turned into the end, the other 
strapped to the eye of one of the lower shrouds. 



156.— MAIN BRACES— ON BUMKIN, &c. 

A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seiz- 
ing crossed both ways ; the strap is then put over an iron out- 
rigger, or bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The 
standing part of the brace being parceled, is rove through another 
bolt in the bumkin,- and spliced into it or clenched; the other 
end rove through the block on the yard aim, from out, in through 
the block in the bumkin, and through a sheave in the bulwarks 
(abaft), for the purpose. 

Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of 
single ones, and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead 
of one, both ends of the brace rove, and led in-board — a great 
facility in working ship. 



157.— FORE BRACES 

Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the 
main stay, below the splice ; the other end taken forward and 
rove from in, out, through the block on the yard, through a single 
block strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a 
thimble in it, close up to the trestle-trees ; then rove from forward 
aft, through a sheave in the main fife-rail. 

The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on 
the main stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. 
Some have a hole bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead 
of clove-hitching it around the main stay. 



86 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : 



158.— CROSSING THE LOWER YARDS. 

The jeers being rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the 
pendants around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard 
of the D thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the 
yard clear of the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man 
the lifts and jeer falls, " sway away," and when the yard comes 
abreast of the futtock staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, 
parcel it well, over all, frap all parts together, and cover all 
with canvass; reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, 
reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses, and square the yard by the 
lifts and braces. 



159.— TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS. 

A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through 
which a hawser is rove ; overhaul it down forward and hitch it 
to the slings of the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it 
on board. Cast off the hawser, middle the yarti^ and prepare it 
for rigging. 



160.— RIGGING TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.) 




The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through 
the eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midships with a lanyard and 
thimble spliced in. 

Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as 
follows : — splice the lanyard into the eye in the end ; take it over 
the yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 87 

eye ; again back round the yard on the fore side, through the 
eye, and back the same way, until sufficient turns are taken to 
secure it. Then take a half-hitch from the lower edge of the 
eye, round all parts of the lashing ; pass it round before ; reeve 
through the eye on the upper side, take two half-hitches round 
all, and secure the end. 

Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into 
straps round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they 
must have double straps, and secured round the yard, on the 
upper foremost quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single 
blocks, two on each yard. 

Quarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured 
in the same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having 
them fitted in this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant 
sheets, and topsail clewlines need not be unrove, which must be 
the case if rope-strapped. If rope-strapped they are seized into a 
single strap, and lashed on top of the yard with a rose-lashing. 

Parrel. — Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other ; 
the long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard 
on each side ; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the 
long leg on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are worm- 
ed, parceled, and served; both marled together and covered with 
leather. A round seizing is passed around both, close to the eye 
of the short leg, on each side. The long leg is taken round the 
yard, brought round on the fore side, and secured to the short 
leg with a lashing of small rope, passed through both eyes. The 
other eyes are lashed together when the yard is across. 

Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main 
yard. 

Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, 
which is on the neck of the pacific-iron,* it has an eye spliced 
in the other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the 
same as a foot rope, just inside the brace block, two or three 
feet, according to the length of the yard. They should be long 
enough to allow a man to stand on them to pass an earing, &c. 
They are sometimes fitted to lower and top-gallant yards, for the 
convenience of reefing, &c. 

Jewel-blocks are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a 
thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for 
the Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the yard arm. 
Others fit them with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron. 

Straps. — Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long 
enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing pas- 
sed between the yard and thimble, — this is called a rolling tackle 



* Is what the boorn-iron ships on. 



88 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in 
the same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to ; but a selvagee 
strap is generally used for that purpose. 



161.— THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD 

Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks 
are on the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced 
into bolts in the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. 
There is seldom more than one tye-block on this yard, and no 
jewel blocks. 



162.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON TOPSAIL YARDS. 

Tar the yard arms ; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and 
lift block ; if no lift block, the lift ; Flemish horses, and jewel- 
blocks. The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear 
of the cap, when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go 
on, and a small cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about 
two feet on each yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of 
the yard. Also reefing cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift. 



163.— CROSSING THE TOPSAIL YARDS. 

Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks ; send one 
end down before all, the other through lubber's hole, and through 
a leading block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch 
the hawser round the slings of the yard ; stop it along the lar- 
board yard-arm, if got up on the starboard side ; if got up on the 
larboard side, the contrary. Overhaul well down to main or fore 
rigging, the starboard lifts and braces ; the larboard into the top, 
and stop them ready for rigging. Man the hawser, and " sway 
away." When the upper yard arm is clear of the top, put over 
the brace and lift, (or block,) and "sway higher;" rig the lower 
yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then cast off 
the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up, 
take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing ; bouse well up 
on the starboard or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 89 

stops being cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; 
square the yard by braces and lifts, and cast off and unreeve the 
hawser. 

Note. — In large ships the lifts and brace blocks are generally 
placed on the yard arms before the yard is sent aloft. The 
braces are rove when the yard goes up. I would also recom- 
mend double yard ropes in heavy ships in crossing topsail yards ; 
also to use the burtons. 



164,— FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HAL- 
LIARDS. 

The blocks spliced into the tyes are so called. They are large 
flat blocks ; some double, sometimes single, and often one double 
and one single to each. The tyes are sometimes spliced taut 
round them ; but this way is bad ; as the rope stretches, the 
blocks cant, and are split. Also a long-eye is sometimes made 
in the end of the tye, and the fly block kept in its place by a 
round seizing passed close above the block. The block in gene- 
ral use is seized into a strap, leaving sufficient space above to 
splice the tye in ; or a thimble spliced into the end of the tye, 
and the fly block strapped with a pair of sister hooks, to hook to 
the tyes. Either of the latter ways are preferable to the former. 

When the yard is on the cap, these blocks should be square 
with the top rails. Before turning in and setting up for a full 
due, an iron traveler is put on the topmast backstay, which is 
seized to the fly-block, — it prevents the block from striking or 
injuring the top when lowering ; it also keeps the turns out of 
the halliards. There is sometimes a traveling jackstay fitted 
for this purpose. 

Reeving Topsail Halliards. — When rove double, a single 
block is strapped into, or hooked, to a swivel bolt in the after 
part of the chains ; one end of the halliards is spliced into the 
upper part of the strap of this block, or bent into a becket put 
there for the' purpose, and the end seized. The other end is then 
rove through one of the sheaves in the double block in the tye, 
then through the sheave in the single block in the chains, 
through the other sheave in the double block, and through a 
leading block on deck. 

The Mizen Topsail Halliards have only one tye. The 
standing part is clenched or half-hitched to the strap, with the 
thimble, at the mizen-topmast head, and a single block spliced 



90 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

or secured in the end. Another single block is strapped into a 
swivel bolt in the mizen chains, and the halliards rove as with 
two single blocks ; the fall rove through a leading block or cheek. 
(Some ships have a treble fly block). 



165.— RIGGING TOPGALLANT YARDS. 

They are got on board like the topsail yards. Leather the 
slings, seize-on the D thimble, parrel, and quarter blocks, rolling 
tackle straps, — tar the yard arms — foot ropes the same as topsail 
yards — stirrups one to each foot rope — iron jackstays secured 
to the yard with staples, fitted the same way as rope. (Iron sling- 
bands are allowed by the new regulation.) 

The lifts are single ; an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm : 
the other end is rove through the thimble, or bull's-eye, or a 
half sister-block in the topgallant-rigging ; a thimble turned into 
the end, and a lanyard spliced into it, and set up to another 
thimble strapped round a futtock plate inside the dead-eye in 
the top, or set up on the end. 

Braces. — A single block is seized into 
a single strap, having an eye to fit the 
yard-arm. If a single brace, an eye is 
spliced to fit the yard-arm, and the lift and 
brace marled together. 

The quarter-blocks are double ; are seiz- 
ed into a single strap, an eye being spliced in each end ; — they 
lash together on the top of the yard — the foremost sheave for 
top-gallant clewline, after one for royal sheet. 

Parrel. — A long and short leg. Take a piece of rope, cut it 
the required length, and splice the ends together round the yard. 
In one bight seize a thimble, with a round seizing ; the other 
one round the yard ; pass a round seizing close to the yard, round 
the parrel on the after side; splice a lanyard into the thimble, 
and fit a short strap the same way on the other quarter. These 
straps are sometimes served, and often covered with leather, — 
they go inside the cleats. Grommets can be worked if preferred, 
and dispense with the thimbles, as they are likely to injure the 
mast. Jaws are also recommended. The patent iron parrels are 
now in use in the navy, but are found not to answer for ships of 
war. 

Tripping beckets are fitted one on each yard-arm ; work grum- 
met straps on quarter of yard, seize a thimble in with a round 
seizing passed between the yard and thimble. A grommet is 
put on the yard rope, to fit the yard-arm, when getting ready for 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 91 

crossing. Also, a lizard; a small piece of rope with a thimble 
spliced in one end, the other whipped. It goes on the yard rope 
before being bent to the yard. 

When ready for going aloft, the yard rope is bent on, and the 
yard stopped to the lower rigging ; the main on the starboard 
side, fore and mizen on the larboard side. 

Note. — Royal yards, opposite sides, to the topgallant yards. 



166.— TOPGALLANT BRACES. 

Fore, — If double, the standing part is clove-hitched round the 
first and second shrouds of the main topmast rigging ; or crotch 
of the stay, through the block for the brace, through another 
single tail block, secured to the first and second shrouds (the 
same as, and under the standing part), through lubber's hole, 
and through a fair leading sheave on deck. 

They are often led forward from the blocks in the topmast rig* 
ging, through a leading block strapped round the eyes of the 
fore rigging, or after part of the top, and through fair leading 
sheaves on the forecastle. In ships of war, I prefer them abaft. 
The block in the' topmast rigging is fitted as follows : — 

A single piece of rope is spliced round a single block, having a 
tail about three or four feet long ; clove-hitch this tail round the 
first shroud, then round the second, and seize the end. I have 
seen a round turn taken round the first, and a clove-hitch round 
the second ; either plan will do, but if neatness is studied, clove- 
hitch round the second and third ; this will bring the block under 
the rigging, and out of sight. If rove single, the block is secured 
the same way — an eye made in the end of the brace to fit the 
yard-arm ; the other end rove through the block on deck, as 
before. 

A whip is sometimes put on the brace, the block spliced in 
close up to the cat-harpens, which answers very well. One end 
of the whip is spliced into a bolt on deck, the other led through a 
fair leading sheave or block. 

Main. — The main topgallant braces are fitted the same as the 
fore, with the exception of leading. The standing part is se- 
cured in the same manner to the foremost, or second and third 
shrouds of mizen-topmast rigging ; the hauling part before all, 
through lubber's hole, and through a sheave in the rack, or a 
leading block, to the side abreast of the mizen-mast. 

Mizen. — The mizen topgallant braces are single. An eye is 
spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm. The other end is rove 



92 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

through a single block ; seized into a single strap, and secured 
to an eye-bolt on each side of the main cap, and through lubber's 
hole on deck. I have seen these braces led through blocks in 
main topmast rigging, in harbor, where appearance has been 
much studied. 



167.— CROSSING TOPGALLANT YARDS. 

One man stands on the topmast cap ; two on the crosstrees 
(one on each side), one of the latter shoves off the grommet, and 
rigs the upper yard-arm ; the man on the opposite side bears 
off, — one man stands in the topmast rigging to put on the lower 
lift and brace ; another stands on the topsail yard, ready to bear 
off; the lower lift should be well manned in the top. 

When the order " sway out of the chains," is given, the man 
standing on the fore part of the top bears the yard rope off, to 
clear the yard-arm of the top — when clear, " sway away." When 
the yard-arm is clear of the crosstrees, the grommet is shoved off, 
the upper lift and brace is pat on, and the order " sway higher " 
is given ; then the lower lift and brace is put on, and the lift 
hauled well taut. The man on the cap has the parrel-lashing 
in his hand, ready for passing; he reeves a turn, and on the 
order, " sway cross," he hauls on the lizard. The lower lift is 
boused on, and the yard falls across ; the braces are hauled taut, 
and the yard squared. 

When a ship is going to sea, the lifts and braces are stopt to 
the jackstay, and the topgallant yard ropes toggled for halliards, 
or half-hitched over the upper block. To toggle the halliards : 
Strap two single blocks, with single straps, leaving an eye below 
the seizing, in one, to take a small lashing ; in the other to take 
the bight of the topgallant yard rope. Lash the block with the 
small eye, to the eye of a lower shroud, and reeve the yard rope 
through it. To the strap of the other block secure the toggle 
with a nettle lanyard. 

Note. — Separate halliards may be fitted to dog on to the yard 
rope, with a double - tailed lizard, and hook the lower block to 
an eye-bolt in the top, which answers a better purpose. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 93 

168.— ROYAL YARDS 

Are fitted the same as topgallant yards, and rigged the same, 
with the exception of the quarter blocks, which are single. In 
small vessels they have no jackstay, the sail being bent to the 
yard. Topgallant sails are often bent the same way, but jack- 
stays keep the sail much better up on the yard. Some prefer a 
wooden batten nailed to the yard. Iron jackstays are now used 
for all vessels in the navy. {New Regulation.) 

Fore Royal Braces. — Two blocks fitted in one strap, as span 
blocks, are lashed round the main topgallant mast-head ; the 
blocks standing on the foremost quarter, on each side. Between 
the after part of the fore topmast trestle-trees, a piece of wood 
with two sheaves, the same size, and a large one in the centre, is 
secured.* The braces are single, an eye is spliced in one end to 
fit the royal yard-arm ; the other end rove through the span- 
blocks, back again through the sheaves in the fore topmast 
trestle-trees, and into the fore top. 

The blocks are often strapped separately, and seized into the 
strap with a round seizing, leaving room for a seizing to be 
passed through the strap, and round the eye of the topgallant 
stay, before going on the funnel, one on each side. This will 
not look so neat as span blocks, and are not so easily taken off 
and put on. The blocks for royal braces are often seized on the 
topgallant stay, with the idea of clearing the foot of the main 
royal. 

Main royal braces are fitted in the same manner as the fore, 
and led through single blocks on mizen-topgallant mast-head, 
and back into the main top ; or through lubber's hole in the 
mizen-top on deck. The latter is decidedly the best plan, as 
they can be much better attended to when under the eye of the 
officer of the watch, than when left to the topmen. 

Mizen royal braces are fitted the same as the others, and lead 
through sheaves in the after ends of the main topmast crosstrees, 
and into the top. 

Crossing royal yards. — They are crossed the same as the top- 
gallant yards. When they are rigged aloft, the topgallant masts 
should be fitted with jacks for the men to stand on, not only to 
expedite the crossing, but also for the safety of the men. They 
are made of iron, and put on the topgallant mast immediately 
over the hounds ; the jack is made ldund to fit the mast, and is 

* This piece of wood is called a fair-leading chock. 



94 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

put on before the funnel, if used. The horns on each side are 
of a proportioned length to the mast ; an eye is turned in the 
end of each horn, for the royal rigging to reeve through, and set 
up as before. When no royal rigging, the breast backstay 
should be rove through the eye, and set up in the top with a 
gun tackle purchase, fitted between the two after dead-eyes. 

Royal rigging is quite unnecessary, in my opinion, except in 
large vessels — the breast and standing backstay is sufficient. 

Royal sheets are either toggled or bent to the clews, rove 
through sheaves, in the yard-arms, and through the after-sheave 
in quarter block, on the topgallant yard ; through leading thimbles 
on the topmast rigging, and into the top, or on deck. 



169.— ROYAL AND TOPGALLANT GEAR. 

When the topgallant and royal yards are sent on deck, the 
topgallant sheets are stopped to the topmast-head, and hauled 
taut on deck. I have seen them in harbor stopt to the tye-blocks 
close down to the yard. The former is decidedly the best plan, 
as they are always ready for bending ; the clewlines and bow- 
lines, are also stopped at the mast-head. 

The lifts and braces are taken outside the topgallant rigging, 
and the eyes stopt to the rigging at the topmast-head, before 
all ; — hauled taut on deck, and in the top. 

Royal gear is stopt at the topgallant mast-head, and hauled 
taut on deck, or in the top. 



170.— SPANKER-BOOM, TRYSAIL-MAST, AND GAEF 



The spanker-boom, trysail-mast, and gaff, may be got on board 
by the yard and stay-tackle. Put the hoops on the trysail-mast, 
and stop them ; sway away by a pendant tackle, and point the 
mast through the after chock of the trestle-trees ; lash its head 
to the mizen mast-head ; leather the boom in the wake of the 
crutch; seize on sheet-blocks, and reeve the sheets; tar the 
boom, put over the foot-rop'es, which are set up, just outside the 
taffrail ; boom-guys, which go with a gun-tackle purchase to 
the quarters. Hook the topping lift to an iron span around 
the boom ; ship and key the boom ; seize on a cleat to belay the 



OR YOUJNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 95 

outhaulers to ; then leather the jaws of the gaff, fit throat, and 
peak-halliard blocks, brail blocks,* vangs and blocks, — reeve 
throat and peak-halliards, hoist up the gaff, and haul taut the 
vangs. 

The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly in the same manner. 

Chocks should be fitted to go in between the lower and trysail 
mast-heads. Copper the mast, in the way of the jaws. 



171.— SPANKER-BOOM SHEET AND GUYS IN ONE. 

Into a bolt, with a thimble in each quarter, strap a double 
block with a single strap ; then seize into two grommet-straps, 
worked round the boom, (wormed and covered,) two single blocks, 
one on each side, just outside the taffrail, or crutch. Secure these 
blocks in their straps, with a round seizing passed between the 
block and the boom. The rope for the guys is middled and cut ; 
then an eye, or cut splice made to fit the boom end. Take the 
larboard guy, and reeve it through one of the sheaves in the 
double block on the quarter, through the single block on the 
boom, through the other sheave in the double block, through a 
fair leader in the side, and pull it up on deck. The starboard 
one is rove in the same manner, through the block on the star- 
board quarter. 



172.— SPANKER-BOOM TOPPING-LIFTS. 

A cheek with a sheave in it, is bolted on each side of the 
mizen trestle-trees, under the rigging ; instead of this cheek, a 
single block is often strapped into a bolt, with a thimble in it. 
On the boom outside the taffrail, is an iron hoop, with an eye- 
bolt on each side, and thimbles in them. Parcel the thimbles in 
the outside bolts, and into them splice the topping lifts ; the 
other end reeve down through the cheeks on the trestle-trees, or 
block, and splice a parceled thimble in the end, for the purpose 
of hooking the jigger-tackle. 



* Cheek-blocks are allowed, fitted to all gaffs, by new regulation. (See Block 
Table.) 



96 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



173.— A BRIG OR SCHOONER'S MAIN-BOOM. 

There being so little boom projecting over the stern, guys are 
unnecessary. On each quarter, strap a double block, and one 
on each side of the boom, in separate straps : through these reeve 
the sheet, — the standing- part from the strap of the quarter-block, 
and hauling part through one of the sheaves of the quarter-block. 
In working with the watch they are found very useful ; one man 
can ease over, while two more can take in the slack. A boom- 
tackle is fitted with a pendant, to hook forward to an eye-bolt 
outside, and used when necessary. (Also crotch-ropes). 



174.— REEVING PEAK-HALLIARDS. 

The standing-part is spliced into an eye-bolt underneath, or 
bottom of the block ; then the other end rove through the inside 
block on the gaff, from forward, aft; then through a sheave in 
the double block, through the outer block on the gaff, from for- 
ward, aft, and down through the sheave in the double block, and 
through a leading sheave in the bitts, or block on deck. 

You may dispense with one block, and splice the standing- 
part round the gaff. 



17 5.— REEVING THROAT-HALLIARDS. 

The standing-part is spliced into the single block, which is 
hooked to the gaff, up through the double block under the top, 
down through the single block, up again through the other 
sheave in double block, and through a leader, opposite to the 
peak-halliards. 



176.— TO FIT SINGLE VANGS. 

Middle the required length of rope, and seize a cuckold's-neck 
in the bight to fit the gaff-end, and lead one end on each side. 
The cuckold's-neck should be neatly covered with canvass, and 
two snug seizings put on each quarter of the neck, showing two 
parts of the rope on the top of the gaff, and one underneath. 
Paint the eye the same color as the gaff. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 97 



17 7. —DOUBLE VANGS. 

Seize into each bight of a long grommet strap, a single block, 
and secure the strap round the end of the gaff, outside the rig- 
ging cleats, with a lashing passed round the strap underneath 
the gaff, and over each block. Splice the standing part of the 
fall into a bolt ; reeve the other end through the block on the 
gaff, and through a single block strapped into a bolt, also in the 
bulwarks. Blocks fitted in this way are called span-blocks. 
This is decidedly the best plan, as the purchase can be of use 
until hauled close down on deck. Pendants are now seldom used. 



178.— FITTING GAFFS WITH CHEEKS, OR BRAIL- 
BLOCKS. 

Close to the jaws, outside the single blocks for the throat- 
brails, secure two double blocks, strapped in the same manner as 
the outer blocks used for the peak-brails. The peak-brails, after 
being rove through the outer blocks, are led through the double 
ones in the jaws, and on deck through leading blocks. 

Gaffs are also fitted with cheeks, instead of blocks; and 
sheaves cut in the jaws for the throat-brails, and fair leaders ; 
which is the approved plan at present, and is very neat. Some 
ships in the service have their gaffs fitted to hook to an iron 
band, with a hook in the end of the gaff, instead of jaws. Others 
travel up and down an iron groove or railway, fitted to the lower 
mast (using no trysail-mast). Others again use a wooden bat- 
ten nailed to the mast; some an iron jackstay, and some a rope 
one. The try-sail masts are preferable, in a gale of wind. 



179.— GETTING UP A GAFF. 

Pass the jaw rope ; man the throat and peak-halliards, the 
former best, and sway the gaff up ; when high enough, rack the 
halliards with spun-yarn to their own parts aloft, and the hal- 
liards can be hauled up, and coiled in the top out of the way. 
Steady the gaff amidships, by the vangs. 

Note. — All gaffs should be peaked, or elevated to an angle 
parallel with the mizen-topmast stay. 

7 



98 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



180.— LOWER STUDDING-SAIL OR SWINGING-BOOMS. 

The lower swinging-booms have goose-necks fitted on one 
end, which in line-of-battle ships and frigates, hook to the fore- 
most part of the fore chains, to iron straps fitted for the purpose. 
They are got in their places when brought alongside, with a 
burton from the foremost shroud, and another on the after back- 
stay. One-third from the outer end,, an iron band is fitted, to 
which the rigging is hooked. When secured for sea, they are 
got close into the side and lashed to a bolt for the purpose. 
When in harbor, in large ships, they are sometimes hooked to 
eye-bolts in the bends, which bringing them lower down, cause 
the boats, when moored, to ride easier. A small Jacob's-ladder is 
fitted to the fore chains, and sets up to the boom close into the 
side ; also one or two seized on the boom some distance out, for 
the men to get into their boats with. 

The fore guy is hooked to the boom, the other end taken for- 
ward and rove through a single block strapped in a bolt in the 
bowsprit cap, and led in on the forecastle. It is sometimes rove 
through a block on the spritsail-yard, and is of great use in get- 
ting the boom from the side ; if no spritsail-yard, blocks can be 
fitted round the outriggers, or whiskers. 

The after guy is hooked to the boom, and the other end led in 
through a sheave in the side ; in large ships, on the main deck, 
close before the gangway port ; in flush-deck vessels through the 
bulwarks. . In large vessels they are rove double. 

The topping lift is hooked to the boom the same as the guys. 

The topping lift block. — Take a single block, large enough 
for the rope to be rove in ; seize it into a single strap, wormed 
and served, leaving a small eye beyond the seizing, to take sev- 
eral parts of small rope. Seize this block on to the second 
shroud (if only one swifter forward), half-way between the fut- 
tock-stave, and seizing of the eye, passing sufficient turns to 
secure it well. When seized in this way there will be more 
space between the shrouds, than if seized closer up, which will 
allow the topping lift to work clearer, and cause no chafing. I 
have seen this block seized to the eye of a shroud well up, but 
prefer the former. 

The lizard. — On the topping lift put a large-sized thimble ; 
round this thimble splice a piece of rope about five fathoms long ; 
for a large ship a piece of three-inch rope would be large enough. 
Reeve the topping lift between the first and second futtock 
shrouds, through the block, and send the end between the 
shrouds on deck. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 99 

A luff-tackle purchase is often fitted to the topping lift, half- 
way up the fore rigging. 

Hoist up ship and key the boom ; put on single blocks for for- 
ward and after guys, reeve, hook, and haul taut the topping lift. 

Note— Several ships in the service have span blocks fitted across 
their fore cap, and a clump block, or bull's-eye, fitted on each fore 
yard-arm, abaft the lift block. The topping lift is rove through 
the block on the cap, then through the one on the yard-arm, to 
the boom ; which does away with the lizard, and when the boom 
is alongside, at sea, the topping lift can be unhooked from the 
boom, and triced up with the rest of the studding sail gear, 
under the fore yard. This method is much approved of in large 
ships. 



181.— LOWER STUDDING SAIL OUTHAUL, 
BLOCK, &c, &c; &c. 

Seize a single block into a double strap, leaving an eye to fit 
the boom end, wormed and served. Then take a piece of six- 
thread stuff, and pass several turns round the strap and the bolt, 
and hitch it round all parts. 

Topmast studding-sail tack-block. — Take a single block the 
required size, strap it with a good piece of rope, leaving a tail 
long enough to clove-hitch round the boom, and seize to the bolt 
in the end. This block is often strapped round the boom, and 
kept in its place with a bolt in the end of the boom, or a hole 
bored for the purpose. Sheaves are sometimes cut, but they are 
bad, as the least slue in the boom takes away whatever purchase 
the sheave would give. 

Lower studding-sail halliard block, <J*c., fyc. — Seize a single 
block into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the boom taut. A 
small cleat should be nailed on the boom, to prevent the block 
slipping in, or the strap secured with a bolt. When the halliards 
are rove, a single block is hooked to the burton pendant, or lash- 
ed. The pendant is sometimes fitted with a block spliced in one 
end, and secured to the mast-head, over the rigging, with a 
lashing passed through an eye spliced in the other, and round 
the mast-head. This is quite unnecessary, as the block lashed 
or hooked to the pendant, answers the same purpose. 

Reeving the halliards. — Reeve through the block to the pen- 
dant, before the rigging, then through the block on the boom 



100 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Send the hauling part through lubber's hole on deck, and through 
a leading block. 

The boom brace is spliced round the boom between the blocks, 
A single block is spliced in the end, half-way between the boom ; 
when tbe yard is square, reeve a fall. The standing part, wjien 
the sail is set, is clove-hitched round the foremost shroud of the 
main rigging ; the other end through a leading tail block to the 
same place. Small ships are not allowed boom braces. 

For inner halliards, use the fore clew-jigger, hooked to the for- 
ward part of the top. When the sail is not set, and the boom 
rigged in, the inner halliards are also used to trice the gear up; 
it is then stopped with yarns snugly to the jackstay, and the ends 
of the gear coiled inside the futtock-shrouds, being previously 
stopped together. 



182.— TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL SPAN BLOCKS, 
HALLIARDS, &o. 

Seize tw ingle blocks into each bight of a strap, long enough 
to go across the topmast cap ; allowing the blocks to hang clear 
on each side. Take a piece of small rope, and pass a lashing 
round the strap, over both blocks, under the cap, and then seize 
the blocks to eye-bolts in the cap. 

To make the strap, take a piece of rope of sufficient size and 
length; worm and serve it, splice both ends together, and secure 
the blocks in their places with round seizings. Through these 
blocks reeve the halliards ; first through the span blocks down , 
take the upper end and reeve it down on the foreside of the top- 
sail yard, through the block on the neck of the boom-iron ; the 
other end is sent down abaft the foremost crosstrees, before the 
topmast rigging, through lubber's hole on deck, and through a 
leading block. When not in use at sea, the bending end is 
hitched round the clew of the topsail, and the hauling part 
hauled up in the top. In harbor they are generally unrove, and 
the span-blocks taken down. 

The downhaul is bent to the sail and made up in it. 

Sheets are also bent to the sail and made up. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 101 

183.— TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS, &c. 



Tricing lines — Are single. A single block is seized on to a 
shroud, close up, and a fall rove through it; one end is bent to 
the boom, the other sent into the top. When in harbor, a thimble 
should be fitted a few feet above the topsail yard, on the foremost 
shroud, and the tricing line rove through it. As everything is 
generally done in a hurry, trying who will be first, the booms 
are hardly ever properly secured, if lowered, after loosing to dry, 
and the men running out on the yards with the booms swinging 
about, frequently occasion accidents. 

Topmast studding-sail boom. — When no boom brace is allow- 
ed and no lower studding-sail set, carrying the topmast studding- 
sail, blowing fresh, a brace can be put on, without rigging the 
boom in, as follows: — Take a belaying-pin, or anything that 
will answer for a toggle, and secure it to the lower studding-sail 
halliards, with a clove-hitch round the toggle, hauling the parts 
well taut ; haul the toggle close to the block on the boom, and 
belay ; and it will answer equally as well as a brace. The in- 
ner end of the halliards should not be let go, for in case the 
lower studding-sail requires to be set, the end can be hauled in, 
the toggle taken out, and the halliards overhauled for bending. 

Note. — Should the boom top up much, and require a martin- 
gale more than a brace, toggle the halliards the same way, and 
bouse it well taut through a leading-block, perpendicular to the 
boom. 



184.— GETTING STUDDING-SAIL BOOMS UP. 

All studding-sail booms have two holes in the inner end, for 
a heel-lashing, and strap for the in-and-out-jigger, and sometimes 
a sheave in the other end for the tack. Take a piece of rope 
long enough for the heel-lashing ; make a knot (a wall and 
crowned), in one end ; reeve it through the hole in the boom end, 
haul through to the knot, and whip the other end ; with the 
latter take two half-hitches, a little inside the sheaves, or outer 
end, and seize the end to the boom. Take a tail-block and half- 
hitch it half-way out the fore or main topsail yard, according to 
the boom required to be got up. Through this block, reeve a 
rope as a whip, (if a heavy boom, it should be a double one,) 
bend one end to the span, made with the heel-lashing, so as to 
balance the boom ; the other reeve through a leading block on 



102 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

deck. Stop the hoisting part to the boom end by the sheave, 
and sway away. When high enough, cut the stops at the boom- 
end, and the boom will hang in the whip, on a line with the 
yard ; point it through the boom-iron, — cast off the whip and 
span, and secure the heel-lashing, rigging boom out to square 
mark. 



185.— TOPGALLANT STUDDING-SAIL GEAR. 

If blocks in the topgallant rigging, the halliards are rove 
through them ; one end is led into the top, abaft all, the other 
through the jewel-block on the yard-arm. Jewel blocks are 
single blocks, seized into single straps, having an eye to go over 
the bolt in the topgallant yard-arm. A small toggle is secured 
to the strap with a knittle lanyard. The eye in the strap is put 
over the bolt, and the toggle put in — the upper end of the hal- 
liards are rove through this block, on the foreside of the topgal- 
lant yard. When the sail is not bent, the studding-sail halliards 
are overhauled dowm, and hitched to the foremost shroud ready 
for bending. The jewel-blocks are always taken off, when get- 
ting ready to send the yards down, and an overhaul knot made 
on the end of the halliards, to prevent them from unreeving from 
the blocks. Whenever the order is given to "unbend the top- 
gallant gear," the jewel-blocks must be taken off. 

Tacks. — Sheaves are sometimes cut in the boom ends, but as 
they hardly ever answer well, and generally cause delay, and 
likewise require more men to get the tack out, blocks are de- 
cidedly preferable. Tail-blocks are best, as they can be so easily 
taken off and put on. Clove-hitching round the boom, and the 
end secured to the eye-bolt, is preferable to having a hole bored 
in the boom for the tail to reeve through, as it only weakens it, 
and is not necessary. The tack is rove through this block, and 
when the sail is to be set, the inner end is bent to the clew of the 
sail ; the outer end led to the after part of the top, where it is 
hauled out, and generally belayed to a shroud or cleat. 

Note. — Belaying either the halliards or tack to the rigging is 
bad, as they are constantly coming up. Cleats should be nailed 
on the after part of the top for the tacks. Two small tail-blocks, 
one on each side, secured to the after futtock-plate, for leading 
clocks, are of great use in getting the tacks out. 




I. Paint and oil room. 



2. General store-room. 



3. Bread-room. 

4. Coal-locker. 



7. Chain-locker. 



8. Tier Gratings. 
1. Shot-locker. 



10. Shell-room. 



Spirit-room. 



12. Bread-room. 



13. Slop-room. 

14. Marine Stores. 



15. Magazine 



* Filling-room. 
16. Light-room. 



A Representation of the Internal Arrangements and Stowage of the Hold ot n 
First-Class Sloop-of-War, U.S. N. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 103 

186— STOWING-HOLD AND SPIRIT-ROOM. (BALLAST 
AND TANKS). 

See that the limbers are clear from chips or dirt, and place the 
limber boards. Clean, sweep, and white-wash the hold; place 
hoop-poles athwart-ships for dunnage, as near to each other as 
possible, so that each pig of iron will rest at least on two of them. 
The rust should be well beaten off the ballast, and each pig 
white-washed. As the stowing of a ship's hold and ballast, de- 
pends so much on her build, it is not possible to lay down any 
precise rule; it is, however, recommended to preserve a strict 
line of level in the position of the tanks. To effect this, and to 
produce the desired uniformity of surface, the stower must com- 
mence the stowage from the midship stanchions in the hold, and 
work outwards regularly towards the direction of the wings. 
The slightest irregularity of surface in the tops of the tanks may 
be the means of throwing out the general stowage, and ultimate- 
ly causing a considerable deficit in the quantity of water which 
the hold is calculated to contain. 

A short, though rather a rough way of calculating the weight 
of ballast required, is to allow one ton of ballast, for ten of ton- 
age, for each class of vessels.* 

Winging the ballast tends to make a vessel roll, and building 
up a-midships to keep her steady. Without venturing on details, 
it may be remarked that the plan of keeping the ballast in the 
body of the ship, and clear 'of the extremities, seems to be most 
generally approved of; while at the same time care should be 
taken to keep her on, or parallel to the line of flotation, designa- 
ted ky the builder. The ballast in the spirit-room, should be a 
continuation of that in the hold. Make a draft of the ballast, 
indicating the exact number of pigs, the position they occupy, 
and their exact weight. 

Previous to getting on board the water tanks, a plan of stow- 
ing them may be easily arranged by means of rough models of 
them in wood, which a carpenter can easily make. In getting 
the tanks from the store, attention should be directed to the lid- 
sockets, which if not properly lined with fearnought, will allow 
much of their contents to escape in rolling ; as also to the obtain- 
ing the proper quantity of keys, and see that they are short 
enough to work between the deck and tanks, if the vessel is a 
small one. White-washing tanks inside, is found by experience 
to be highly useful in keeping the water pure. The screws for 
letting off the water require very careful treatment ; for they are 
apt, if once started, never to be so tight again ; and after being 



* The weight of chain cables and water tanks, are considered in this calcula- 
tion, also half of the shot. Also a consultation with the builder. 



104 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

three or four years in use, the nuts decay, rendering" the keys 
useless. If the water cannot be turned off from the tanks by the 
proper mode, there seems to be no other wa)r of getting rid of it, 
in a case of necessity, but by forcing a hole in the bottom with a 
crowbar. 

The tanks should be stowed during the time the ship is rigging. 

Note. — By a late order, the valve in the bottom of all water 
vanks is stopped up, and the screw taken out. Those that are 
now made new, have no screw. There is also an alteration in 
the lids for the better. 



187.— STOWING CASKS. 

Strike down their beds, place and whitewash them ; then com- 
mence stowing the casks at the after bulk-head in the hold, ob- 
serving to have the largest casks in the kelson tier, and the 
gauges of the cask on each side of the kelson, to correspond. Be 
careful that the bung-holes are all up, the bilge free, and head 
clear. 

After completing the first tier, go on with the second, placing 
hanging beds between the casks, and stowing barked wood in all 
the breakages. As the tiers approach the wings, let the size of 
the cask diminish. 



188.— STOWAGE OF PROVISIONS, NAVAL STORES, &c. 

Stow the beef on the larboard side, and the pork, starboard 
side ; with the flour, rice, and beans in the wings ; chocking all 
fore and aft with wood. The casks in the spirit-room are stowed 
in the same manner, with the exception that the stowage is com- 
menced forward, instead of aft. Whiskey, molasses, and vinegar 
are always stowed in casks. The liquors of the medical depart- 
ment, and purser's stores, are generally stowed in the spirit-room. 
Dry provisions should not be stowed under the wet, and should 
be placed in such a manner, that when required, they may be 
got at without disturbing all the hold. 

Make a draft of the lower, and riding tiers, and spirit-room, 
with the guages of all the casks on the draft; the number of 
barrels, boxes, &c.,with the kind of provisions they contain. 

The shot and wads may also be got on board, and stowed in 
their respective lockers. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 1Q5 



189.— STOWING CHAIN CABLES. 

The chain cables are got on board through the haAvse-holes,* 
and paid down the main hatchway, into their respective lockers. 
They are from ninety to one hundred and eighty fathoms in 
length, and are slip-shackled, or lashed to the kelson. 

Note. — See table of allowance of chain cable for class, &o 



190.— TO GET ON BOARD AND STOW THE HEMP 
CABLES. 

Hemp-cables are one hundred and twenty fathoms in length, 
two are now allowed to all vessels, from a ship of the line, to a 
third class sloop of war, inclusive. The cables are taken from 
the rope-walk, and coiled upon a car having a large hole in its 
bottom, and after being transported to the vessel, or lighter at 
the wharf, the upper end of the coil is passed down through all 
the flakes, and through the hole in the bottom of the car, then 
coiled away again in the lighter. By dipping the end in this 
manner, grinds or kinks are prevented, and the cable is got into 
the lighter, with only one turn in it. 

The lighter being towed off to the ship, haul under the bows ; 
place mats in the sides and sills of one of the forward ports ; get 
the cables in on deck, and French-flake them fore and aft. They 
are now with the same number of turns in them, as when they 
left the rope-walk. See that the tiers are clear, and that the 
gratings are properly placed for the cable to lay on. Pass the 
end of the spare one below, and coil away with the sun, on the 
starboard side of the tier; make the coil as large as possible, 
taking care not to have too many flakes in a sheave, as the in- 
side strands of the inner ones would be injured, by breaking in. 

Pass the ends of the starboard one on the larboard side, and 
the larboard on the starboard side. Clinch them around the 
main-mast, or to the beams, coil them away with the sun, letting 
the ends remain out, to be pointed or tailed if necessary. Join 
the pointed ends with a short splice, worming the tails along the 
cable. The upper ends are crowned in the following manner, 
viz. : clap a seizing round the cable about two fathoms from the 
end, and unlay it to the seizing. With the three inner strands 
form an artificial eye ; cut off the three next ones and woold 

* If the vessel is alongside of the wharf, the chain-cables may be got in by a 
shoot, through the port, or over the rail, 



10b THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

their ends ; with the three 'outer ones, form a crown, worm the 
ends along the cable, and clap on seizings in proportion. 

The stream cable and messenger are coiled away in the tier 
of the spare cable. The hawsers, if possible, should be stowed in 
such a manner, that the end of every one could be passed up 
together if required. 



191.— CATHEAD STOPPERS. 

When not fitted with the slip, or patent stoppers, a good piece 
of rope, in proportion to the size of the anchor, has a stopper-knot 
in one end, then rove through the cathead, and hauled taut. It 
should be well wormed, parceled, and served in the way of the 
cat-heads, and sufficiently far towards the end, to take the ring 
of the anchor. The end should have a becket put in, and point- 
ed over. Take a piece of small rope, and splice it into the inside 
yarns of the stopper, the same as a tail, or knot the yarns to- 
gether ; then marl down, and point over. The becket should 
be made large enough to take a good hauling-line, for the pur- 
pose of hauling the end of the stopper in-board, after being rove 
through the ring of the anchor. 



192.— SHANK PAINTER. 

A piece of chain is secured to the side ; a large thimble, well 
parceled, is put into the last link ; round this thimble splice the 
piece of rope intended to make the tail of the shank-painter ; it 
is the same sized rope as the cathead stopper. The other end 
is pointed, with a becket in. 

Note. — The patent iron slip or trick-stopper, is now generally 
used in the service, by those who can procure them. They are 
not allowed by the regulation, but quite a number of ships have 
them fitted. 



193.— FISH-DAVIT GEAR. 

The davit is stept into a shoe in the fore-chains, for the pur- 
pose. A double block is seized into a double strap, leaving an 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 07 

eye to fit the davit-head ; both parts of the strap are marled 
together. Another double block is seized into a double strap, 
having a large hook* and thimble, to take the arm of the anchor. 
Take a large single block, seize it into a single strap, leaving an 
eye to fit the davit-head ; it will lay the opposite way to the 
double one, and allow the hauling part of the fall to lead fore 
and aft along the gangway ; or up aloft through a leader to the 
fore pendants. 

Back rope. — To the back of the hook, clove-hitch and seize 
the end down, of a piece of rope, long enough to lead to the fore 
chains, or into the head, when the fish-fall is overhauled. This 
is taken forward when hooking the fish. Cat-back is used for 
the same purpose — i. e., hooking the cat. 

Guys, bolts, rigging, fyc. — In the fore and after side of the 
davit, bolts are driven. The fore-guy is a piece of stout rope, 
long enough to reach from the davit, when stepped, to the after 
side of the cat-head, leaving room for lashing. The after-guy is 
another piece of rope, long enough to reach the after part of the 
fore-chains, and both fitted as follows: — splice a hook and 
thimble in one end, into the other splice an eye, and into this 
eye splice a lashing. 

Get a jigger on the foremost swifter, and hoist the davit into 
the step or shoe. Hook the guys to the bolts hi the davit-head, 
and set them up to the cat-head, and after part of the fore-chains. 
Put over the double block, then the single, and reeve the fish-fall. 
Take two tackles, clap a good strap round the foremast, hook 
the double block to this strap, and the others to selvagee-straps 
round the davit-head. The strap round the foremast should be 
in a direct line whith the davit-head when perpendicular. These 
tackles will answer for topping-lifts, and will be found much 
better than the old-fashioned topping-lifts for stowing anchors. 

Note. — I would recommend the iron davit, in preference to the 
wooden one, on account of its being more durable, much neater, 
more convenient for stowage and also requires less gear. 



Properly called a fish-hook. 




108 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR 




194.— GETTING ON BOARD, AND STOWING ANCHORS. 

The fish-davits being rig- 
ged, reeve and overhaul the 
cat and fish-falls, get the an- 
chors into a lighter, and tow 
them under the bows; pass up 
the stream-cable, and clench it 
to the ring of the bower-an- 
chor; hook the cat, and run 
the anchor up to the cat-head. 
Pass the stopper, hook the fish, 
and pass the shank-painter. 
Unbend the stream-cable, and 
bend it fo the waist-anchor, 
then drop the lighter aft, and 
secure her under the berth of 
the anchor. Brace the fore 
yard in, and the main yard up 
as much as possible ; top them 
up a little, hook a stout tackle 
to act as a rolling-tackle, and bouse the lifts and trusses well 
taut. Pass a lashing round the slings of the yard, to ease the 
trusses. Hook both top-burtons to the yard-arm, and set well up 
the opposite breast-backstays. Pass a strap round the topmast, 
just above the lower cap. Hook the double block of a stout pen- 
dant-tackle to this strap, and the single one is hooked just with- 
out the place where the bull's-eye for the pendant is to be lash- 
ed; haul well taut the lifts, burtons, and pendant-tackles alike — 
reeve whips, and get up the triatic-stays. The bull's-eyes for 
the pendants are lashed sufficiently far out on the yards, to allow 
the anchor to clear the ship's side. Reeve the pendant up 
through it, and clench the end to the lower mast-head ; have a 
thimble in the lower end, to which the purchases are hooked. 
Have a thwartship-tackle in readiness, to bouse the anchor to 
the gunwale ; lash the lower block of the main-purchases, to the 
crown of the anchor, having guys from each fluke to keep it 
steady. The fore purchase-block is lashed to the ring. 

Rack the topsail- tye aloft, and hook the lower block of the 
fore-topsail halliards to a stout strap, passed round the shank of 
the anchor amidships, then lashed above the middle of the 
upper arm of the stock. "Sway away;" when high enough, 
haul over on the stay and thwart-ship tackles, and get the bill 
of the anchor upon the gunwale. A cleat is nailed on the lower 
part of the stock, a lashing passed under it, and round the tim- 
ber-head in the after part of the forecastle-bulwark for the pur- 
pose ; another lashing from the same place to the upper arm of 
the stock, and fra*p all together. A shore is fitted from the side, 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. tQO, 

on which the anchor rests, and a lashing passed round the 
shank through a span-shackle bolt in the side for the purpose ; 
the inside fluke rests on a bill-board on the fore end of the chess- 
tree, or after part of the fore chains. Some ships stow their an- 
chors further forward than others. The anchor being secured, 
unbend the stream cable, and unlash purchases. 

Drop the lighter round on the other side of the ship — shift 
over the purchases, secure the yards, and get up the other bower 
and waist-anchors in the same manner. When done, pass the 
stream-cable below, and coil it down in the tier. 

Note. — Belaying cat-head stopper. After being boused well 
taut with a jigger, take as many turns as the rope will allow, 
over the timber-head on the forecastle bulwarks, and seize it well 
to its own part with spun-yarn. The shank-painter is set taut 
and belayed in the same manner. 



195.— BENDING THE CABLES 

A rope is rove through the ring of the anchor, the end led in 
through the hawse-hole, and bent to the cable with a timber- 
hitch, three or four fathoms from the end, and stopt along to the 
end of the cable. Haul out on the ring-rope, and when there is 
sufficient of the end through the ring, cut the stops, unbend the 
ring-rope, and form an inside clinch, having it smaller than the 
ring of the anchor. The bends are put on opposite to each other, 
and a small bend put on near the end to secure it. Render the 
cables as far as possible through the clinch, and stop them to- 
gether to prevent chafes, &c. 

Note. — The chain cables are shackled to the rings of the an- 
chors ; then bend the buoys and buoy-ropes. 



196.— TO RANGE AND STOPPER THE CABLES. 

Before ranging the cables, they should be bitted, which is done 
as follows : — When the cables are bent, haul up sufficient slack 
to form a bight abaft the bitts ; throw the bight which is thus 
formed, over the head of the bitts (and in case it is to be weather 
bitted, take another turn round the cavil). In ranging, get a 
tail-block over the hatchway, through which reeve a rope ; over- 



HO THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

haul down, and hitch to the cable. Take the running part close 
out to the side, bouse on the rope, and flake the cable fore and 
aft the deck. Clap on deck and bitt-stoppers, before and abaft 
the bitts; put on rounding at the range, If hemp, which is in- 
tended to veer, and also have cable mats in readiness, to be used 
as may be required. If a hemp-cable, a small range forward of 
the part bitted ; if chain-cable it merely requires bitting ; ranging 
is unnecessary. 

Note. — When the anchor is let go, veer from the locker 
through the compressor — (i. e., supposing it to be a chain.) 



197.— STOPPERS, &c, &c. 



The trip-stoppers. — Both ends are made fast to eye-bolts 
under the after part of the fore-channels. The score in the end 
of the waist-anchor stock rests in the bight, and is used to trip 
the anchor clear of the ship's side, when let go. 

Deck-stoppers are hooked to bolts in the deck. They have a 
knot worked in the end, with a lanyard fast to itr The lanyard 
is passed round both the stopper and cable, abaft the knot, and 
then wormed along the cable, forward of it. (See claw-stopper). 

Ring-stoppers are ropes middled ; the bights are passed through 
the deck-bolts, the ends rove through the bight, and dogged along 
the cable. 

Bitt-stoppers are tailed and rove through the sampson-knee 
forward of the bitts, then taken over the cable abaft the bitts, 
under again, and wormed along the cable forward. A tackle 
may be hooked to this, and used for veering. 

Dog-stoppers are very long, and are used in the tiers. One 
end is clenched round the main-mast, and the other wormed 
along the cable. 

The wing-stoppers are similar, but are clenched around the 
orlop-deck beams in the wings. 



198.— COMPRESSORS, OR COMBING STOPPERS. 

For hemp-cables they are very long, and are tailed. Two 
holes are bored through the deck, abaft the after beam of the 
hatch ; one end of the stopper is rove downwards through one of 
the holes, passed under the cable, and rove up again, through the 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. HJ 

©ther hole. Both ends are then dogged round the cable taut, so 
as to nip it against the beam. 

The compressor for chain-cables is an iron elbow, one end of 
which is bolted to the forward beam of the hatch underneath, 
and intended to work on the bolt. The elbow goes round the 
cable, having an eye in the other end, to which a luff-tackle is 
hooked ; which being hauled on, stoppers the cable effectually. 



199.— PUTTING ON NIPPERS. 

Nippers should be from three to five fathoms in length, and 
made of the best rope-yarns. They are used when heaving up 
the anchor, and are passed as follows : — Lay the messenger on 
the cable, and begin two or three fathoms abaft the hawse-hole ; 
two round turns are first taken with the end of the nipper, round 
the messenger, and held by a boy, then round both. The other 
end is wormed round the cable, as the first was round the mes- 
senger. When the strain becomes heavy, racking, and even 
round turns may be used, having also small heavers, and selva- 
gees to secure the ends ; taking care to have dry ones to use 
when the anchor is up and down. 

Note. — Some ships have done away with the nippers alto- 
gether, and use nothing but the selvagee and heaver. Each 
nipper-man provides two selvagees, and one heaver ; also an iron 
pin of proper size to put through the links of the chain-cable, to 
prevent the muddy chain from slipping through the strap. 



200.— IRON CLAW-STOPPERS, AND CLEAR-HAWSE 
SHACKLES. 




^^si 



These are used for chain-cables, instead of rope-stoppers, and 
are found very convenient, and more durable than rope. They 
are allowed to every ship in the service by the new regulation, 
and are fitted as follows : — A piece of chain four feet long, is fit- 
ted with a devil's-claw in one end, and a slip-hook in the other; 
a slip-ring also in the long link in the chain, for the end of the 
slip-hook. 



112 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



201.— TO CUT, AND PASS A MESSENGER. 

The length should be equal to twice the distance from the 
after part of the capstan, to the roller in the manger, and add 
four times the circumference of the capstan-band ; this is suffl 
cient for splicing in the eyes and taking turns. The messenger 
is passed with three round turns, and then the eyes lashed with 
the lanyard, figure-of-eight fashion. The part which is brought 
to the cable is undermost. 

Note. — Some messengers are fitted with a strap and toggle in- 
stead of a lashing ; this plan is much quicker than the old way. 
The size of the strap, ought to be one half the size of the mes- 
senger; in length it should be once the circumference of the cap- 
stan on the bight. Instead of splicing the two ends of the strap 
together, make a spritsail-sheet knot with the six strands, reeve 
one bight of the strap through one eye of the messenger, the 
other bight through the other eye, and toggle them together. 

To dip a messenger. — Cast off the lashing, slack up the turns, 
and pass the eye up or down, as necessary, between the turns 
and capstan. Render the turns through each other, and pass 
the lashing again. 



202.— SPLICING ROPE-CABLES. 

Cut off the ropemaker's fag-end, and unlay the cable suffi- 
ciently far for splicing. Take the inside yarns and lay them up 
into three strands, equal to the piece of rope intended for the tails, 
and splice these small strands and tails together. Take the out- 
side yarns and make them into three-yarn plaits or knittles, then 
marl the remaining yarn down over the splice and tail, and 
point over all with the plaits or knittles. The cable is then open- 
ed with setting fids and commanders, and the splice made, each 
strand boused through with jiggers ; the ends are put in twice 
on the tier, and once on the anchor part. Take a good piece of 
small-rope, and pass it as a round-seizing, close to the splice, and 
cross it on all sides. When finished it will look square; and 
pass another, with smaller stuff, close to the ends. Worm the 
ends into the lay of the cable, and pass three or four spun-yarn 
seizings, at equal distances round them and the cable, to keep 
them in the lay — make the seizings, and whip the ends of the 
tails. The size of the seizing, and number of turns, depend on 
the size of the cable. 



To bring-to a Messenger. 



imztmMF&m 




Packingham's Rudder, &c, &o. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 1 13 

Bends. — The small rope used as seizings in clinching, are so 
called. The end of the cable for clinching to the anchor should 
be wormed with good strands, and backed with good spun-yarn, 
and the end capped. The worming should be long enough to 
form the clinch, and the cable well tarred before and after its 
being done. The lay of the cable opens in clinching, and being 
wormed, it prevents the wet getting into the heart of the rope, or 
lodging. To pass the bends, have a good piece of rope of the 
length and size required ; bring both parts together, leaving one 
end a third longer than the other ; then pass it round both parts 
of the cable, and put both ends through the bight. Pass the 
under turns with the short end, the upper or riding-turns with 
the long one. Stop both ends well with spun-yarn to their next 
parts, and cross the whole seizing or bend, with sennit ; pass the 
sennit on the bight, and secure both together with a reef-knot. 



203.— TO SHIP, AND UNSHIP A RUDDER. 

Have the rudder brought under the stern, hung to a scow. 
Bore a hole through the beam or calling over the rudder case — 
drive an eyebolt up through it, and fit a washer and forelock. 
Strap a large single block* with hook and thimble, and hook it 
to the eye-bolt ; reeve a top-pendant through the single block, 
down through the rudder-case, and hitch it to an eye bolt, which 
is temporarily fitted into the rudder-head. Clap a deck-tackle on 
to the other end of the pendant ; have heel-ropes leading forward 
on each side, after being rove through their respective holes in 
the rudder. Man the deck- tackle fall, and hoist away. When 
the rudder is high enough, guy it fair with the heel-ropes ; see 
the pintles fair for entering the gudgeons, — lower away, and fit 
in the wood-lock. Come up the pendant, unreeve the heel-ropes — 
take the bolt from the rudder-head, also the one from the beam 
or calling at>ove — ship the tiller, and reeve the wheel-ropes. 

To unship it. — Fit the bolts, single block, pendant and deck- 
tackle as before, unreeve the wheel-ropes, unship the tiller, knock 
out the wood-lock, and " sway away." When the pintles are 
clear of the gudgeons, lower away, and secure it to the scow or 
lighter — -tow it on shore, and parbuckle, or hoist it out of the 
water or scow. 



* If a top-block can be procured, it will answer best, as the neck of the hook 
being shorter, it will give more hoist. 



114 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



204.— GETTING THE GUNS ON BOARD. 



The gun-car- 
riages and all the 
equipments be- 
longing to the 
guns are brought 
alongside in 
lighters, and 
hoisted in with 
the yard & stay. 
Get them on their 
respective decks, 
and reeve the 
purchase for get- 
ting the guns on 
board. 

Securing the 
main-yard. — To 
the bolts in the 
lower cap, hook 
the double blocks 
of two burtons. 
The single ones 
are hooked to 
selvagee - straps, 
round the yard, 
close to the lifts, 
and the falls sent 
on deck, through 
leading - blocks. 

Bouse well taut the main-lifts and burtons together, and belay. 
Then pass a good lashhig round the main-yard in the slings, 
and main-mast, to keep the yard steady, and support the trusses, 
they being previously boused well taut. 

Take the top tackle-pendant, and reeve it through a top-block, 
secured well to the yard with a good lashing, passed round the 
hook, on the outside quarter ; take the pointed end over the cap, 
pass it between the head of the mast and heel of the topmast, 
take two half-hitches on its own part, or that from the yard, and 
secure the end with a round -seizing of spun-yarn. Get a single 
whip upon the main-yard, close to the lashing, bend one end to 
the hook of the top-tackle fall-block; hoist the block up and 
•hook it to the thimble in the pendant. Through this and the 
other top-tackle fall-block, reeve a fall; clench one end (the 
standing part), round the main yard close to the block ; the other 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. H5 

end, when rove full, through a leading block on deck, by the 
bitts. 

The garnet-purchase is a pendant, with a thimble in the 
upper end, which is hooked to the main-pendant-tackle; the 
other end is rove down through holes bored in the deck for the 
purpose, and a stout hook and thimble spliced or turned into the 
end. The garnet should be long enough to go on the lower- 
deck, and the holes bored perpendicular to the centre of the port 
through which the guns are to be got on board. The slings are 
made of breaching-stuff, twice the length of the gun, the ends 
spliced together, and the strands put in twice each way ; seize 
an eye on the bight, large enough to go over the breach of the 
gun ; put over the eye, and put the slings along the upper part 
of the gun, lashing them with a piece of rope round all, just for- 
ward of the trunnion ; put the other end over the muzzle, and in 
toggle. Lash the purchase-block to the bight of the slings, and 
also bend on a hawser to weigh the gun, in the event of parting 
the purchase. "Sway away;" drop the lighter from under the 
gun, and when the breach is as high as the port, hook the gar- 
net and also an a-thwartship-tackle to the breech-ring ; haul on the 
tackle and bring the gun in through the port — run a carriage un- 
der — lower away ; place the trunnions fair, and clamp them ; 
come up the purchases, and transport the gun to its port. The 
lower and main-deck guns are got in in the same way. The can- 
nonades are taken over the rail ; a toggle is put in the muzzle, 
one bight of the slings over the cascable, the other over the muz- 
zle, and back-lashed to the toggle ; the stay or purchase-block is 
lashed on midships of the slings, and the stay or pendant-tackle 
to the same place; consequently the gun will come in square. 
Have the bed and slide ready, place it fair, and drive in the naval- 
bolt. Ship the screws, beds, and coins ; reeve the breeching, 
hook side and train-tackles ; see the guns square in the ports, 
and secure them. 

The main-deck guns might be taken in over the rail, and 
struck down the main-hatch ; but I prefer their being taken in 
through the port, if plenty of men. 

Note. — The reason for having additional security on the main- 
yard is, because in getting in the guns, the strain is altogether 
on the yard ; while in getting up the anchors, the strain is di- 
vided between two yards. The burtons are sometimes frapped 
in with the main-lift, between the yard and cap ; but I prefer 
their not being done so, as they will all render fairer, when the 
strain comes on them. It is customary to top the main-yard up ; 
but I saw a line-of-battle ship's guns got in without it, and as it 
brings a greater strain on the slings and trusses, it should not be 
done to so great an extent as is the practice. 

Caution. — When the garnet-purchase is raising the breech to 



116 THE KEDGE-ANCL10R; 

the level required to place the gun in its carriage, care must be 
taken that the main-purchase be not lowered by a turn, but that 
the men on the fall "walk back" with a steady step. 

When the gun is lodged in its carriage, it is removed to its 
proper port, and another carriage is rolled to the receiving port, 
ready for the reception of the next gun, and so on. 



205.— FITTING SHACKLE-BKEECHINGS. 

If it be required to fit the breechings on this recently improved 
plan, it will be necessary to taper and point both ends of the 
rope preparatory to splicing or turning-in a shackle on each ex- 
tremity. The shackle should be turned-in and secured to each 
end of the breeching by two separate seizings, one close to the 
shackle, and the other towards the pointed end of the rope. 
They are frequently spliced into a thimble and then shackled, 
which I think is much neater.* 

By this simple and serviceable method, the breeching may be 
shifted in a few seconds, it being no longer necessary to reeve it 
through the ring at the breech. An opening is now made in the 
cascable, which admits the introduction of the breeching on the 
bight ; and the cascable fitted with a hinge or snatch, and some- 
times a bolt going through the cascable, confines the breeching, 
and prevents it jumping out on the recoil of the gun. 



206.— TRIATIC STAYS. 

A double block is strapped into a pendant, a hook and thimble 
spliced into one end ; a single block is strapped with a hook and 
thimble, a fall is rove, the standing-part bent into a becket in the 
strap of the single block ; sometimes the double block is strapped, 
and the pendant spliced in over the seizing. A good strap with 
a thimble seized into it, is fitted to the strap of the lower block. 
A piece of rope is spliced round the strap of the fore-stay block, 
and the other end, when cut to the required length, spliced round 
the strap of the main-stay block, and seized. This is called the 
span, and is generally the length between the fore and main- 



* This last improvement was introduced by Francis Grice, Esq., chief Navai, 
Constructor, U. S. N. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ]17 

hatchways. The main-stay hooks to a strap with a thimble in 
it, from round the main-mast-head on the fore side ; the fore 
from one abaft, fitted in the same manner. The main one gen- 
erally comes down alongside the slings, the fore one between the 
trestle-trees, abaft. The pendant and tackle are sometimes fitted 
separate, to hook, and are easier stowed away. 

Note. — In case of emergency, these pendants may be taken 
round the mast-head, and hooked to their own parts. I have 
known some ships to use them this way altogether. 



207.— HOISTING IN SPARS. 

Overhaul down the fore and main-yard tackles, fore and main- 
stays, and lead their falls to the opposite side of the deck the 
spars come in at. Hook burtons to the lower caps (double 
blocks), single ones to selvagees round the lower yard-arm, close 
inside the lifts. Send the falls on deck, and pull up the lifts and 
burtons together, and trusses ; brace the fore-yard in, and hook 
on to the spars. They should be always hoisted in as stowed.* 

If the spars are too long to come in abreast, between the fore 
and main-masts, such as topmasts, hook the main-stay to the 
strap round the foremost end, and fore-stay to the after one ; then 
hook the yards to separate straps made of pieces of stout rope 
knotted together, or good selvagees, according to the weight of 
the spar. Man the yards and walk them up ; when clear of 
hammock-nettings, haul on the main-stay, ease the fore and 
main-yards, keeping the spar square, and get the foremost end 
inside the rigging ; then ease the main-stay, and get the spar in 
its place on the booms. Small spars can be got in with the 
main-yard, a double whip on main-stay, or single guy if required. 



208.— STOWING BOOMS. 

The spars on the starboard side are stowed as follows, viz. : 
Main-topmast, head aft; main- topgallant, (mast-fishes) hah^yard, 
main topmast studding-sail booms, and jib-boom. On the lar- 



* The spars intended to be stowed underneath, should be hoisted in first ; such 
as topmasts, half-yards, and jib-boom, for the lower tier, and round off with the 
smaller spars on the top. 



US 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



board side — fore-topmast, head forward: fore-topgallant-mast, 
mast-fish, half-yard, fore topmast studding-sail booms, flying-jib- 
boom, &c. 

There are several small spars which are equally divided, to 
make the booms as snug and neat as possible. A great deal of 
room can be gained by stowing them amidships in one pile, and 
the boats on each side. As the spars are stowed, they should be 
numbered on each end, also a list taken, and painted on the fore- 
side of the boom-boards ; by so doing it will save much time and 
trouble to find any spar that may be required ; as I have seen all 
the booms unlashed before a spar was found. 

The booms are lashed to span-shackles in the deck for the 
purpose. A few small spars should be kept out, to drive under 
the lashing, to set all taut. When stowed they are covered with 
tarpaulins, or matting made for the purpose. When the spars 
are all in, square the yards. 

Note. — It is becoming the general practice, to stow both top- 
masts with their heads forward. Many ships stow all their spars 
amidships in one pile, with the exception of the fore and main- 
topmasts, which are stowed outside of the boats ; spare main-top- 
sail yard on the larboard-quarter, the fore on the starboard- 
quarter, in the chains, and spare jib-boom across the-stern, secured 
underneath the stern-davits.* 



* Some ships stow topmasts and all amidships ; but this is a bad plan, as it 
would be necessary to take out all, to get a topmast if required, it being under- 
neath. 




PART III 



REEVING RUNNING RIGGING. 



209.— FORE BOWLINES. 

The fore bowlines have an eye in one end, to go over the tog- 
gle, and are rove through a single block, seized into a single strap, 
and secured to the fore-stay collar with a seizing passed through 
an eye left in the strap, and the other end led in on the forecastle. 

The fore and main clue-garnets are hitched to the yards, then 
rove through a block lashed in the clews of the sail, up through 
a block on the quarter of the yard, down to the fife-rail. 



2 lO.— FORE-TOPSAIL CLEWLINES. 

Topsail clewlines are fitted the same as clew-garnets, and 
sometimes with a whip ; they come on deck through lubber's 
hole. 

"When fitted with a whip, a piece of rope nearly equal to the 
double clewline, is rove through the quarter-block, and an eye 
spliced in one end, which is secured with a seizing round the 
clew, when the sail is bent. In the other end, splice a single 
block, and reeve a fall through it ; one end splice into a bolt in 
the deck, and the other reeve through a leading-block, well apart 
from the standing-part. 

Note. — The disadvantage of double clewlines, is, the points 
getting in the clew-blocks when clewing up, or sheeting home. 



120 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



211.— TOPSAIL BUNTLINES 

Are toggled to the foot of the sails, and rove through single 
blocks at the mast-head, underneath the rigging, and through 
lubber's hole on deck. Cheeks or sheaves set in the foremost end 
of the trestle-trees are best, as they keep the buntlines clear of 
the belly of the sails. Blocks in bolts will do equally as well, 
but do not look so neat. I would recommend fitting a shoe- 
block underneath the eyes of the rigging, on each side, in prefer- 
ence. 

Buntline-spans are short pieces of rope, with a thimble in one 
end, and the other end whipped ; the buntlines are rove through 
these thimbles, before being bent to the sail, or rove at the mast- 
head. At sea these spans are knotted together, abaft the tye- 
blocks on the yard, and stopped to them. When in harbor, they 
are let go, to allow the sails being triced well-up to furl, or hauled 
out to dry, by the bowlines, when toggled to the foot of the sail. 



212.— FOKETOP BOWLINES 

Have an eye spliced in one end to go over the toggle on the 
bridle ; the other is rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, 
strapped into a bolt, or a sheave cut in the after end of the bees 
and led in on the forecastle. 



213.— MAIN BUNTLINES. 

There are two on each quarter, and reeve on the bights. 
Reeve first through the large sheave in a shoe-block, then reeve 
both ends, from forward, through the double block under the fore 
part of the main-top, and bend or clinch both ends to the holes 
in the foot of the sail for the purpose. Sometimes toggles are 
fitted into the holes, with double straps, and an eye spliced into 
each end of the buntlines. If no shoe-block is to be got, seize 
two single ones into one strap. Through the other sheave of 
shoe-block, reeve a fall ; clinch one end to the main-stay by the 
foremast, or splice an eye and seize it round it. The other end 
reeve through a leading block, seized into a single strap, leaving 
an eye to seize it to the stay, or through a sheave or leading 
block in the fore-bitts. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 121 



214.— FORE BUNTLINES 

Generally toggle to the foot of the sail, and are sometimes 
clinched ; then rove through a double block under the fore part 
of the fore-top, and through fair leading sheaves in the racks to 
the bulwarks. The buntline should be long enough to allow 
the sail to belly. The outside leg of the buntline is sometimes 
rove through a thimble strapped into the foot of the sail, and 
clenched into a cringle put into the bolt-rope, a few feet above 
the clew. 



215.— MAIN BOWLINE 

Js a runner and tackle, and is rove and unrove as required. 
It is rove through the thimble seized on the bowline bridle ; the 
end of the runner is secured round the fore-bitts, or to a cleat. 
The lower block of the gun-tackle purchase is fitted with a hook, 
and hooked to a strap close lo the end of the runner, for the pur- 
pose. I have seen the main-bowline boused up to the weather- 
forecastle bulwarks, which I think preferable, not seeing any 
very great advantage from its being hauled amidships ; partic- 
ularly when it is considered that the main-topsail yard, on a 
wind, is braced abaft the main-yard. 



216.— TOPGALLANT SHEETS 

Are rove through the sheave in the topsail-yard, then through 
the after sheave in the double block in the quarter of the topsail- 
yard, and through a leading sheave or block on deck. The up- 
per end is bent to the clew of the topgallant-sail ; sometimes a 
long-eye is spliced, which goes over a toggle in the clew of the 
sail. They are also fitted with sister-hooks, which is the latest 
and most improved plan. 




122 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



2 17. -TOPGALLANT CLEWLINES 

Are bent through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheet- 
bend ; it is then rove through the foremost sheave on the quarter- 
block on the yard, and sent down through lubber's hole on deck. 



218.— FORE TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 

Are toggled to the bridle of the sail. The fore one is rove 
through a single block at the jib-boom end, one on each side, and 
led in on the forecastle through fair leaders. These blocks are 
strapped like span-blocks, and lashed together on the upper side 
with two lashing-eyes ; they are sometimes strapped singly, and 
go over the boom-end, or seized to the guys. Double blocks are 
also sometimes put in these straps, and the two inner sheaves 
used as jib-brail-leaders. 



219 MAIN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 

Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, then rove through sheaves 
cut in the after part of the fore-topmast-crosstrees, and through 
lubber's hole, through fair leading sheaves on deck. Single tail- 
blocks are sometimes used, clove-hitched round the after shroud 
in the fore-topmast rigging, close up to the futtock-stave, or seized. 



220.— MIZEN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES 

Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, and rove through single 
blocks on each side of the main-mast head, and through fair 
leading blocks on deck. A double block is often used instead of 
two single ones on each side, one sheave for the brace, the other 
for the bowline. They should be led from lubber's hole abaft 
all, between the cat-harpen legs, or futtock-shrouds. 



OR ' YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 123 



221.— TOPGALLANT BUNTLINES 

Are seldom used in light weather, although very necessary in 
taking in sail, when blowing fresh, as they save much time, and 
in some instances a man's life. On a wind it spills the sail, and 
prevents its getting over the lee yard-arm ; and going free ena- 
bles the men to furl it much easier. A strong proof of their 
utility may be inferred from the fact that merchant vessels, who 
have as little rope rove as possible, and are generally weak-hand- 
ed, have their sails fitted with buntlines. 

They are fitted as follows : — A piece of rope with a thimble on 
it, is spliced into two eyelet-holes, worked in the foot of the sail, 
about a third from each clew.* Splice the end of the buntline 
round the thimble ; reeve the other end through a single block, 
seized into a single strap, and secured round the topgallant mast- 
head by a lashing passed over all ; send the end of the buntline 
through lubber's hole, on deck before all to the fife-rail. 



222.— ROYAL BOWLINES. 

The fore royal-bowline is rove through a block at the flying- 
jib-boom end, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader, 
the same as the topgallant-bowline, and the main-royal bowlines 
through the chock at fore-topmast head. 



223.— REEF-TACKLES 

Are sometimes double, and also fitted with a whip, as clew- 
lines, or pendant and burton. When double, a single block is 
seized into a single strap, having a thimble in it, and the seizing 
passed between the block and thimble. This block goes on the 
bridle, or cringle, in the leech of the topsails. One end of the 
reef-tackle is clinched round the neck of the boom-iron, the other 
rove through the block, up through the sheave in the yard-arm, 
and through the upper sheave in the sister-block, through lub- 
ber's hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck. 



* This piece of rope is called a span. 



124 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

When single, an eye is spliced in the end of the pendant, to go 
over a toggle fitted to a bridle, as above ; the other end rove 
through the yard and sister-block, a single block spliced into the 
end, and a whip rove, as on the clewline. 

Note. — The generality of naval ships use their top-burtons with 
short hide-pendants ; some object to this, as the top-burtons may 
be wanted, when they are in use as reef-tackles. 



2 2 4,— LEECH-LINES. 

The forward leech-lines are rove through the upper sheave-hole 
of a shoe-block ; both parts are then rove through a double block, 
hooked with a pendant to the lower cap, then through two single 
blocks seized to the jackstays on the yards, and are clinched to 
the leeches of the courses, forward of the sail. 

The lower legs are rove through the other sheave-hole in the 
shoe-block, and the standing-part made fast to the fife-rail ; the 
other end being used to haul up the sails. 

The after leech-lines are rove through blocks on the under- 
neath part of the yard, and clinched to the courseslibaft the sail, 
to the same places as the forward ones. 

Note. — Shoe-blocks are now pretty much out of fashion — when 
they are not used, both parts of the leech-lines are led on deck 
and the whip-purchase dispensed with. 



225.— SLAB-LINES 

Are bent to the middle of a span at the foot of the sail, led up 
abaft, and rove through a block lashed to the grommet or span, 
around the straps of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, and 
down on deck. These are very necessary in light weather, and 
in rough weather, may be converted into spilling-lines. 



226.— ROYAL CLEW-LINES 

Are bent to the clews of the sail, rove through the quarter- 
blocks on the yard, and led either in the tops, or on deck. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 125 

227.— FITTING TACKS AND SHEETS, BUMKIN- 
GEAR, &c. 

A single block is seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to 
fit the bumkin; this block is made with a shoulder, which lays 
on the bumkin when the block is on. 

Bumkin-braces are now generally chain ; one is hooked to the 
bow, and two to the cutwater ; and set up with a lanyard rove 
through span-shackles in their ends, and others on the bumkin. 
or with a turnbuckle. 

Reeving the tack. — Clinch the large end round the oumkin, 
outside the block, having been well wormed, parceled, and served, 
far enough towards the small end to take the block on the bum- 
kin, when the sail is reefed. Reeve the small end through the 
block in the sail, then through that on the bumkin, and in on the 
forecastle through a hole in the bulwarks, for the purpose. 

Fore sheet. — The large end is served the same as the tack, 
and is hooked into a bolt in the side for the purpose ; the small 
end is rove through the block in the sail, and through a sheave 
in the side, or gangway bulwarks. Large ships generally work 
the fore-sheet in the waist (main-deck), but it is often worked on 
the gangway, (spar-deck). 



228.— YARD TACKLE TRICING-LINES. 

If no cheek on the yard, take the pendants taut along from 
the yard-arm, and then secure a single tail-block. On the fore- 
most shroud, well up, seize another single block, fitted with a 
single strap, leaving room when seized-in, for the seizing with 
which it is secured to the shroud. Round the fiddle-block in the 
pendant, between both sheaves, secure the tricing-line with a 
running-eye ; then reeve the other end through the cheek, or tail- 
block, and then through the single block on the shroud, and on 
deck. 



229.— TO REEYE AND TOGGLE ROYAL-HALLIARDS. 

Take a round-turn with the yard-rope, well up round the strap 
of the block, with the long-eye ; reeve the bight through the eye 
and put the toggle in it ; then bring the end up from the block 



126 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

seized to the eye of the shroud, and reeve it through the one on 
the yard-rope, send the end on deck, and reeve it through a lead- 
ing block. 

When half-hitched, the lower block is fitted as described, and 
secured ; the upper one is strapped with a thimble in the strap — 
reeve the yard-rope through the thimble, and then through the 
lower block, up through the upper one, and on deck through a 
leader. 



230.— FORE STORM-STAYSAIL GEAR. 

To fit the stay. — Take a piece of good rope of proportionable 
size to the sail ; fit one end with two legs as a stay, and lash 
them abaft the foremast-head, the legs being placed underneath 
those of the standing-stay. Take a piece of rope the round of 
the bowsprit, inside the fore-stay collar ; splice an eye in each 
end, and seize a thimble in the bight — splice a lashing in one 
eye, and secure the strap round the bowsprit, by passing it 
through both eyes, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. 
Reeve the end of this stay through the hanks foil the sail, then 
reeve it through the thimble in the strap, and set it well up with 
a luff-purchase ; the double block hooked to a strap well up the 
stay, the single one to another strap on the end ; then pass a 
round-seizing round both parts, close to the thimble — come up 
the luff, and pass another seizing between it and the end, but 
not at too great a distance, as it will prevent the sail from coming 
close down. 

Halliards. — Have a good strap to go round the foremast-head, 
close to the stay. It can be fitted with two lashing-eyes, and 
when so fitted can be easier taken off, and put on. When the 
sail is to be set, hook the double block of a luff-tackle to this 
strap, and the single one to the head of the sail ; the hauling- 
part being sent down abaft the fore-yard, and through a leading 
block on deck. 

Downhaul. — A single block is secured to the parts of the strap 
round the bowsprit — the downhaul is spliced to the head of the 
sail, then rove through the hanks, through the single block, and 
led in on the forecastle. When a stay is fitted, the downhaul 
block is seized to the strap round the bowsprit. 

The downhaul is often double ; if so, a single block is secured 
to the head of the sail, the standing-part of the downhaul secur- 
ed to the strap on the bowsprit, and the hauling-part led in as 
before. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 127 



Sheets. — Deck-tackles are generally used, one on each side ; 
they are hooked to the clew of the sail, and the hooks well 
moused. When the sheet is aft, the weather one is overhauled. 
The after blocks are hooked to eye or ring-bolts, as convenient, 
and should not be too high or too low ; if too much up and down, 
they slack the foot of the sail ; if too high, the after leech. The 
falls are rove through leading blocks, and the all hooks should 
be well moused. 

Note. — These stays when set up, may be secured cutter-stay- 
fashion, instead of seizing the end up, which will allow the sail 
to haul close dowji on the bowsprit. 



231.— MAIN STAYSAIL GEAR 

The stay is fitted the same as the fore, and sets up round the 
cross-piece in the fore bitts, after being rove through the hanks. 
The halliards are fitted the same as the fore. 

The downhaul is rove through a block strapped round the bitts 
for the purpose. If rove double they are fitted in the same 
manner. 

Instead of iron hanks, I have seen grommets used, made of 
pieces of rope, with a wall-knot worked on one end, and an eye 
spliced in the other ; these are long enough to go round the stay 
and becket. They are secured to eyelet-holes in the sail with a 
seizing, and are always kept to it. I have seen the sails set on 
the spring-stays, when fitted in this way, but prefer separate 
stays. 

There are also other ways of setting storm-staysails, but those 
I have mentioned are in most general use. When a main-trysail 
can be got, mizen-staysails should never be drawn, as a ship will 
keep much better to windward with trysails and fore-staysail, 
than under the staysails alone. 



232.— MIZEN-STAYSAIL GEAR. 

The halliards are hitched to the collar of the staysail-stay, rove 
through a block in the head of the sail, then through a leader, 
and led down on deck. 

The downhaul is clinched to the head of the sail, and rove 



128 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

through the hanks down the mizen-stay. The mizen staysail- 
sheet is a runner, leading through a snatch-block and thimble. 
A gun-tackle purchase is most commonly used, which answers 
all purposes. 



233.— TOPMAST STAYSAILS, &c, &c. 

Fore. — The standing part of the halliards is seized or hitched 
to the fore topmast spring-stay, then rove through a block in the 
head of the sail, up through a leading block under the eyes of 
the topmast rigging, then down on the larboard side of the deck 
abaft the foremast. The down haul is hitched to the head of the 
sail, rove through the hanks, then through a block seized to the 
tack of the sail, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader. 
The tack is a simple lashing. 

The fore topmast staysail and jib-sheets are pendants lashed 
to the clew of the sail, with a block in the end, through which 
the sheets are rove ; the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in 
the bows, and the running part is led in on the forecastle. 

Main. — The standing part of the halliards is hitched to the 
collar of the main-topmast spring-stay, reeving through a block 
at the head of the sail, then through a block at the main-top- 
mast head, and led down on deck. The downhaul is fitted the 
same as the fore, and led down by the fore-mast. The tack is 
rove through a block in the weather fore-rigging, or top. 

The main topmast staysail-brails are seized to the leech of the 
sail, led up through the hanks to a block seized to the upper 
hank, and can also be used as a downhaul. 

The middle, lower, and upper topgallant-staysails and jack- 
stays, may be fitted in one. In this case a double block is turn- 
ed in, and lashed to the after part of the fore-topmast crosstrees, 
or mast-head ; the lower part is set up in the fore-top, and the 
upper part at the fore-topgallant mast-head. 

The middle staysail-stays are rove through a single block, 
strapped to the topmast, down on the cap. 

The lower and upper topgallant staysail-stays, are rove 
through blocks fitted to traverse the jackstay, with lock-thimbles, 
the former being rove through the other sheave of the double 
block at the topmast cross-trees; the latter through a block at 
the fore-topgallant mast-head, and both led on deck. 

The downhaul blocks are single, and are seized to the straps 
of the tricing-line blocks. The halliards are whips hitched to the 
collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head of the sail, 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 129 

through leading blocks at the mast-head, and down on deck. 
The tacks are single and led in the fore-top ; the sheets are also 
single, leading in the gangways. 

Note. — The principle object to be attended to, in reeving run- 
ning-rigging, is to avoid the ropes being too much crowded in 
one place, crossing or charing each other, or any part of the stand- 
ing rigging, as it not only destroys it, but also decreases the de- 
sired purchase to be obtained by their running clear of each 
other. 



234.— SETTING UP RIGGING FOR A FULL-DUE. 

Have all the luffs on deck ; fore, main, and mizen pen- 
dant-tackles hooked, and tackle-falls laid along for pulling 
up ; new lanyards ready for reeving, seizings, mailing- 
spikes, levers, mallets, grease, small spars for ratling-down, 
triangles rigged ready for hoisting up the mast, to secure 
the futtock-shrouds and cat-harpen legs, (if used;) burton- 
falls sent on deck and rove — all the temporary ratlines cast- 
off — spars got up underneath the bowsprit with the gra- 
tings for the men to work on — topgallant-masts and flying 
jib-boom housed ; and also men stationed at the dead-eyes 
to turn in if required. Let everything go abaft the masts, 
commence turning in the dead-eyes, and reeve the lan- 
yards — set up the bowsprit-rigging and secure it. Then 
man the pendant-tackles, set taut the after-swifters— (if 
wedges in) get the mast well forward in its place, and se- 
cure the stays. Cast off the cat-harpen legs (if fitted), and 
futtock-shrouds.* Set up the rigging for a full-due, observing 
the same precautions as when it was first set up. 

The lanyard is now rove full, and when racked, take the end 
and form a clove-hitch above the dead-eye, then rack the surplus- 
end to the inside, parts of the lanyard, until the end is expended. 
The hitch is formed between the dead-eye and shroud, around 
both parts, in the space left by stretching — some use a half-hitch 
taken over all round the shroud, hove well back, the lanyard ex- 
pended, and the end seized. The ends of the shrouds are then 
cut square and capped, and the mats laced on. 

Rigging-mats are made with small rope, three-quarter-inch, 



* Vessels having iheir futtock-rigging set up to bands round the mast, use no 
cat-harpen legs, and have therefore no occasion of coming up either of the above. 



130 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

and are called sword-mats. They are generally the breadth of 
the dead-eye, and long enough to take in both — the lanyards are 
laced inside. They are hardly ever used on topmast rigging; 
they look heavy, and are of no use, except on the forward 
shrouds and backstays. 



235.— STAYING MASTS. 

The practice of "staying masts with the wedges in," has been 
already denounced as contrary to every received system of sea- 
manship. The stays may be set taut with the wedges in, but 
the masts should be always free in the partners, whenever there 
is occasion to alter the position of their standing ; because it is 
impossible but that the precise situation of the mast must be al- 
tered a little, rendering necessary corresponding alterations in 
the wedges. When these are made and the wedges firmly fixed, 
there can be no inequalities of play or pressure — the whole be- 
comes a solid mass, yielding naturally and uniformly to the 
motion of the ship. Whereas, if in setting up the rigging the 
wedges be kept fast, the mast pressing unequally against them, 
having -too much play in one part, and too little in another, it 
must inevitably get crippled. 

In preparing to set up the rigging, though the stays may not 
appear to require a pull, it is well to have the luffs and tackle 
ready; for after lifting the wedges, there is great probability of 
its being found necessary. 



236.— BLACKING RIGGING. 

The most convenient method of blacking rigging, is with the 
topgallant masts on deck, but royal and topgallant rigging placed 
at the mast-heads; for then men who ride down and black the 
topmast-stays, can then at the same time easily black the topgal- 
lant and royal-stays; or, what is handier still — let the men at 
the mast-head haul over and black these small stays, and pay 
them down forward when done. The men also who black down 
the topmast-backstays, can carry on at the same time with the 
topgallant and royal-backstays. By this method the masts are 
kept clean. 

If, on the other hand, topgallant-masts be kept up when black- 
ing, the small stays and backstays must be let go, in order that 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 131 

they may be got at by the men on the topmast-stays and back- 
stays ; consequently the masts must be adrift, are likely to be 
daubed -over with blacking, and if it should come on to blow fresh, 
so as to render it necessary to get the topgallant-masts on deck, 
much injury must result to the blacking. 

The topsail and lower lifts should be blackened first, the men 
having to stand on the yards to do them. 

Previous to commencing, the decks should be well sanded, and 
the paint-work and head covered with old canvass. The quarter- 
tackle should be clapped on one side of the main-yard, and also 
a burton hooked, ready for clearing boats. 

The finer and warmer the day, the better — the blacking will 
lay on so much the smoother and thinner ; but commencement 
should be delayed until the dew is well dried off. A dry calm 
day is the best ; for the blacking will not take effect, unless the 
surface it is laid upon be dry. 



237.— STATIONING THE CREW. 

In dividing the crew into watches, care should be taken that 
the physical force is as equally distributed as possible, and that 
there be as many seamen, ordinary seamen, boys, and marines, 
in one watch as in another. 

Petty officers should be chosen from among the seamen, and 
those selected who have been long in the service, and have 
proved faithful. Forecastle men should be middle-aged seamen, 
with a few ordinary seamen and landsmen. Young active sea- 
men should be selected for topmen, also a few ordinary seamen, 
landsmen and boys. After-guard, a few elderly seamen, with 
ordinary seamen and landsmen. Waisters are chiefly landsmen, 
with a few ordinary seamen ; in single-decked vessels, where 
there are no waisters, more men should be stationed on the fore- 
castle and in the after-guard, in proportion to the number of the 
crew of the different classes of vessels. Idlers are excused from 
keeping watch — they are officers' servants, cooks, &c, &c. 

Divide each watch into first and second parts, and appoint a 
captain to each part ; number the men belonging to the fore- 
castle, having all the larboard watch even, as two, four, six, and 
the starboard odd; have the numbers painted on canvass, and 
let each man sew it on his bag and hammock ; having also for 
greater distinction, the larboard painted red, and the starboard 
black. The men should be below alternately, so that when one 
watch is below, there should be an equal number of the other 
watch on deck. 



132 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR : 



238.— STATIONING THE CREW AT QUARTERS. 




Captains of the guns should be chosen from among the sea- 
men who have been long accustomed to them, steady, with 
good sight, and quick motion. The largest and stoutest men 
should be chosen to man the long guns, the others the cannon- 
ades. The boarders should be stout men — the firemen and sail- 
trimmers, active young men. Be particular to station them as 
near where they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in 
order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of the gun's 
crew be in one watch, and the second part in the other, so that 
in the event of going to quarters in the night, the watch on deck 
can clear away the guns, while the watch below will clear away 
the hammocks. 

To a twelve-pounder cannonade are stationed four men and 
one boy. All the men stationed at the long guns of a double- 
decked ship, should be armed with cutlasses, and called "board- 
ers" — the first of the gun's crew to be called second boarders, and 
vice versa. They are only to be called on when required to 
"board," or in a case of great emergency to "repel boarders," and 
then every man will repair to the upper-deck, except the firemen, 
quarter-gunners, and powder boys, who will remain below to pro- 
tect the ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire. 

All the men stationed at the cannonades should be boarders 
and sail-trimmers. As boarders, the first part should be armed 
with pikes ; the second part with small-arms, who are to repel the 
boarders, but not to quit the ship. 

In a single-decked ship, all the men stationed are boarders ; 
the first part to be armed with cutlasses, and- the second with 
pikes. 

The battery being manned, distribute the rest of the crew as 
follows: — have a quarter-master at the signals, when in a squad- 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 133 

ron — topmen and marines in the tops, to repair damages, and 
act as small-arm-men — a quarter-master and two men at the re- 
lieving tackles — men stationed at the passages, to pass full and 
empty boxes; also others at the shot-lockers. Mastmen to see 
the rigging clear — cook, and armorer at the galley — the carpen- 
ter and his mates at the pumps and wings — the master-at-arms, 
and ship's corporal in the light-room — the gunner, his mates, 
quarter-gunners, and cooper, in the magazine, and the surgeon 
and assistants in the cock-pit. 



239.— STATIONING THE CREW FOR MOORING AND 
UNMOORING. 

In stationing the men, place the same number of men, of each 
watch, to perform a piece of duty. When in a squadron, have 
quarter-masters at the signals, and also in the chains — men at 
the wheel — quarter-gunners to overhaul the fish, and grapple the 
buoys — men to overhaul and hook the cat, and attend the back- 
ropes ; also others at the mast, to see the rigging clear. Boat- 
swain's mates in the gangways ; carpenter's mates to ship and 
unship the capstan bars, and attend the stanchions, with the 
music at the capstan — some fore-topmen to put on nippers, or sel- 
vagees, some main-topmen to take them off, and boys to carry 
them forward. Hands to rouse up and veer away the cable, to 
attend the stoppers, and light forward the messenger. The yeo- 
man in the store-room — master-at-arms, and ship's corporal on 
the berth-deck, and cook at the galley — tierces in each tier, or 
chain-locker, and the remainder of the men at the capstan. 



240.— LOOSING AND FURLING. 

Take the same number of men from each watch, and station 
them at the same rope, &c. The topmen are to man their re- 
spective yards — hands are to attend the boom-jiggers and tricing- 
lines — forecastle men to attend head-sails, trysail and foresail — 
main-yard men to look out for the main-sail — after-guard, for the 
spanker and main-trysail — for the main-topmast staysail, the 
fore-top-men — for the main-staysail, the gunner's crew — hand 
stationed to sheet home, and hoist the topsails, and when coming 
to an anchor, the same men to man the clew-lines, bunt-lines, 
and weather-braces ; and when loosing sails to dry, to man bow- 



134 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

lines, or buntlines. In furling, the captains are to be in the bunt, 
in reefing-, at the earings. 



241.— STATIONING THE CREW FOR TACKING AND 
VEERING. 

Station the men from the " watch bill " — have hands at the 
jib-boom end, to overhaul the jib-brails, and light over flying-jib 
sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over jib-pendants — hands 
on the bumkins, and in the chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, 
and backstay-falls. On deck, at the wheel, spritsail-braces, jib- 
sheets, jib-brails, braces, bow-lines, clew-garnets, tacks and sheets, 
backstay-falls, lifts, trusses, spanker-sheets, guys, vangs, and top- 
ping-lifts. Aloft, to overhaul lifts and trusses — attend outriggers, 
and bear the backstays abaft and abreast — the mast-men to see 
the rigging clear, &c., &c. 

For reefing. — The men are stationed as in furling, with the 
exception of the captains, who are stationed at the earings. 
When the yards are down, the men from the clew-lines and 
bunt-lines will haul out the reef-tackles. 



242.— GETTING READY TO BEND SAILS. 

It is customary to bend the light sails first, such as jibs, span- 
kers, and trysails. Overhaul the jib and flying-jib stay, and hal- 
liards, in on the forecastle. Have the lashing spliced into the 
sheets ready for passing, and seizings to the hanks. 

Overhaul down into the top the reef-tackles, and stop the- 
blocks to the foremost shrouds, (or the end if single.) Overhaul 
the topsail-sheets from the yard-arm, and half-hitch them round 
a dead-eye, or foremost futtock-plate. Bunt-lines into the top, 
and stop them to the foremost shroud, above the topsail-yard, or 
to the tye-blocks — clew-lines into the top, and stop them to the 
eye of a shroud, and get the harbor-gaskets on the yards. A 
rope-yarn stop will be quite sufficient for all these purposes. 
Both burtons should be overhauled on deck before all. 

Overhaul down the leech-lines, slab-lines, bunt-lines and clew- 
garnets, and stop them so as to prevent their flying about. 

Take two selvagee-straps, put them round the neck of the 
boom-irons, and to them hook the double-block of a long jigger ; 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 135 

the single one overhaul down, and hook to a ring or eye-bolt in 
the bulwarks, and the fall led through a leading block a-mid- 
ships. 

Lower down the gaffs — overhaul the brails, and have seizings 
of two-yarn spun-yarn ready, to secure them to the sails. If 
hoops, seizings should also be put on them, with both ends rove 
through the bight. 

Topgallant yards should be got out of the rigging, and laid on 
deck out of the way, ready for bending the sails. Top-burtons 
overhauled down forward of all, for the topsails. 

Note. — When the preparations above stated are made, it is in- 
tended to bend all the sails together. 



243.— BENDING SAILS. 

Call all hands to bend sails — get the courses, jib, topsails, and 
spanker, on deck. Open them out, and see that they are whole 
and complete; with the bowline-bridles, head and reef-eaiings, 
rope-bands, reef-points, sheet, clew-line, and reef-tackle blocks 
all in their proper places. Bight the topsails down in their re- 
spective places forward of the masts, with the clews out. Hook 
the lower block of the burton to the slings passed round the 
centre of the sail, and mouse the hook — reeve the fall through a 
snatch-block or leader, and keep the sail clear of the top as it 
goes up. 

Overhaul the courses athwart the deck, shackle on the sheet ; 
and also the tack, and clew-garnet blocks — reeve and bend the 
gear — stop the head of the sail to the bunt-lines, use the clew- 
jiggers for yard -ropes, hooking to the first reef-cringle, and stop 
the head earings to the block. 

The end of the jib-stay having been brought in on the fore- 
castle, reeve in the hanks, and stop the luff of the jib — hook on 
the halliards — reeve the downhauls — fit the brail-block and reeve 
the brails — hook on the sheet-blocks, or pendants, and reeve the 
sheets. 

Lower the spanker-gaff — pass the throat and peak-earings, and 
lace the head to the gaff — seize on the brails, and reeve them 
and the outhauler. All being ready, 

To man the gear. — First, man the top-burtons and sway the 
topsails clear of the deck — man the jib-halliards and downhaul — 
yard-ropes, clew-garnets, clew-lines, bunt-lines, reef-tackles, and 
gaff-halliards : at the word run out the jib, reeve and set up the 
stay, and seize the tack. Sway the topsails and courses up to 
the yards, where some hands are ready to receive them. Bend 



136 THE KEDGE A.NCHOR; 

the gear and haul out j then take a turn with the earings — ride 
down the heads and pass the earings exactly ; make fast the rope- 
bands, fit the leech-line block of the courses — seize on and reeve 
the leech line. In the mean-time some hands are employed in 
seizing on the hoops of the trysails and spanker, as they go 
aloft. After the sails are all bent, it would be well to let them 
fall, to see that all the gear is bent clear, if so, clew up and furl 
the courses and topsails, and stow the jib, spanker and trysails. 

The topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails are bent on 
deck. 

Send the staysails into the tops, fit the jackstays and tricing- 
line blocks, seize the head of the luff; reeve the halliards, down- 
hauls, and brails, bend the tacks and sheets ; stow the staysails 
and haul all taut. 

Note. — The staysails are not all allowed by the new Book of 
Allowances. 



244.— BENDING SMALL SAILS. 

By small sails are meant topgallant-sails, royals, flying-jib, 
studding-sails and staysails. 

It is only in ships in good order where the men go through this 
manoeuvre with smartness and method, after being exercised, 
and having become familiar with the ship and their stations. 

First, all the yards, topgallant, royal, and studding-sail, should 
be got out of the rigging, and down on deck at the same time. 
Next, a proportion of hands should be sent to each sail, and all 
bent together, including flying-jib and staysails. 

When the topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails, are all 
bent, they should be swayed into the rigging all together, and 
not one after another. 

If the topgallant-yards happen to be across, the best plan, if 
circumstances will permit, is to bend all the other small sails 
first, except the flying-jib, and then to wait until the yards are 
sent down at sunset, to bend topgallant-sails and flying-jib. 

Topgallant sails ought not to be bent while the yards are 
across, because the earings must then be hauled out, and passed 
over the lifts and braces, which precludes the possibility of un- 
rigging the yard afterwards, without unbending the sail. Some- 
times one of the two sets of topgallant-yards are appropriated in 
harbor to exercise, (sending up and down) while the other is kept 
below, with the sail bent, ready for crossing. 



OK YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 137 

In bending topgallant-sails, the earings are passed the same as 
the topsail, and the sail seized to the jackstay, the yard-rope bent, 
the sails furled, and the yard got into the lower rigging. In 
furling, bring the leeches taut along the yard, and keep the clews 
in the bunt, then roll the sail up from the yard-arm, and pass the 
gaskets. Put the grommet over the yard-arm, man the yard- 
rope and sway the yard up and down ; put the lower yard-arm 
into the snotter, over the foremost dead-eye; secure the upper 
yard-arm with a lanyard spliced round the shroud for the pur- 
pose; it is called a stop. The lizard should be singled, ready for 
going aloft, by reeving it once through the thimble on the yard- 
arm, and half-hitch round the yard-rope with the bight. 

Trysails and storm-staysails should be bent at this time, if 
they are to be bent at all before leaving harbor. 

Note. — Good rope-yarns answer very well for robins for topgal- 
lant-sails and royals. You are never at a loss for them in bend- 
ing, and in unbending they are easily cut. 



245.— BENDING A SPANKER. 

Overhaul the brails well, and pass the sail through their 
bights. Haul the earing in the jaws out first ; then the outer 
one. Splice the lacing into the outer eyelet-hole, lacing, and 
secure the lacing in the jaws. Bring the after-leech taut, along 
the gaff, and within a few inches of the blocks ; mark the place 
for the throat-brails, also for the peak, opposite their respective 
cheeks on the gaff, and seize the brails to the leech-rope, by pass- 
ing the seizing between the strands and round the brails. Eve- 
let-holes, worked close to the leech-rope, are far preferable for seiz 
ing the brails to. 

The throat-earing is generally passed through an eye-bolt in 
the lower part of the jaws ; but this never brings the sail close to 
the mast, and looks very bad. In preference, I would recommend 
having a score cut under the leather in the jaws, and the earing 
passed from the cringle through this score, and an eye-bolt on 
the upper side of the jaws, back through the cringle, and so on, 
until sufficient turns are taken to secure the sail. Large staples 
also are fitted to the jaws for the purpose, and keys on top, which 
answer better, and are more secure ; also bending battens, instead 
of lacing round the gaff. 

The outer earing is passed round a cleat on the upper side of 
the gaff, for the purpose. Take the earing from the cringle, pass 
it round outside the cleat, back through the cringle, and round 
the cleat, until sufficient turns are taken ; then take several inner 



138 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

turns round the gaff and cringle ; frap all the outer turns together, 
with the remaining part of the earing, to bring the parts close, 
and prevent any chance of their slipping over the cleat ; take two 
half-hitches, expend, and seize the end. 

To haul out this earing, and stretch the head of the sail well, 
use a small jigger ; secure the double block to an eye-bolt in the 
end of the gaff, pass three turns of the earing, cat's-paw the end, 
to which hook the other block, and pull the earing well out. I 
have frequently seen only one earing used ; but would prefer two, 
as all inner turns, when much strain is on them, should have a 
separate earing. If a new sail, and requires much stretching, it 
is hauled well out before passing the earing, by hooking the in- 
ner block of the jigger to the cringle. Man the throat and peak- 
halliards, hoist the sail up gradually, seize the hoops, and reeve 
the lacing. 

Note. — Trysails are bent in the same manner. Some fit them 
to haul in and out on the gaff, with hoops. 



246.— FITTING SEA-GASKETS. 

Gaskets are made with foxes, or small spun-yarn, and platted, 
like making sennit. The spun-yarn is middled over the bolt, 
and platted together, the bight forming the eye ; sometimes a 
piece is platted for the eye, then all worked together; if not, 
the eye is served over afterwards. Sea-gaskets are long enough to 
have only two on each yard-arm, and to furl the sail over booms 
and all, when close-reefed, as there will be no more sail on the 
yard-arms than at any other time. They are secured round the 
jackstay, by reeving the end through the eye ; sometimes round 
the yard. 



247.— FITTING HARBOR-GASKETS. 

In making, the eye is left large enough to take a small thim- 
ble, then platted broader in the centre, and tapered to a small 
end. The broad part should be long enough to make the sail 
in when furled with two reefs. They may be (to look well) about 
two-and-a-half inches wide, but this is quite a matter of taste. 
When put on the yard, the thimble is put underneath the jack- 
stay from forward, and secured to it by a seizing passed round the 
neck of the gasket and jackstay, close to the thimble, and when 
the sail is ready for their being passed, it is taken up and rove 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 139 

through the thimble, and the sail tossed well up ; the end then 
shoved underneath between the sail and gasket, once or twice. 
These always look better than any other, are easier passed and 
secured, and keep the sail well up. There is generally one har- 
bor-gasket to every other seam. 



248.— BUNT-GASKETS. 

These are always, as to fitting, a matter of taste, but at present 
they are generally made of wove mat, two or three inches wide, 
with the two legs crossed, and an eye in each end. I have seen 
them made of rope, in the following manner : — Take the dis- 
tance between the two quarter blocks, and measure it off on deck ; 
drive a nail slightly into the deck at each end ; then measure 
from the centre the height the bunt is intended to be, and there 
drive another nail. Take a piece of rope, from two and a half to 
three-inch, and measure off sufficient to go over these nails, form 
ing a triangle ; splice both ends together, and seize a thimble in 
each corner ; put these thimbles over the nails again, and fill 
the space in diamonds or squares, according to fancy. The 
thimbles in each end are secured by the quarter-blocks to the jack- 
sta3*, and also in the centre. It is not necessary to have thim- 
bles in each end, as an eye will answer every purpose. A long 
sennit-gasket is middled and seized by the upper thimble ; it 
should be sufficiently long to go round the mast, when the gas- 
ket is boused up, to secure it and the bunt well into the mast. 



249.— HAMMOCK GIRTLINES. . 

Whips are rove at the yard-arms. If rope is not used on purpose 
for girtlines, the studding-sail halliards will answer ; they are 
rove as follows : — A tail block is put on each side of the jib-boom 
end, and another on the spanker-boom. Overhaul down the 
whips, and bend them round the girtlines with a bowline knot, 
allowing room for their rendering through. Belay the foremost 
ends of the girtlines and trice vuo ; haul upon the after-part, and get 
all taut. A man lays out on each yard-arm, and marks the girt- 
line with rope-yarns where the tricing line, or a whip, should be 
bent ; then lower away, cast off the bowline knot, and bend%the 
tricing lines round the girtlines with a rolling hitch. 

The whips are led from the lower yards to the lower caps, 
through blocks hooked to the bolts, and on deck. The lower 



140 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

end of the tricing-line is often bent to the girt-line as an inhaul 
or downhaul ; but it is best to have them separate, as it prevents 
walking the hammocks up, and laying across the deck; and 
there are plenty of other ropes' ends which will answer the 
same purpose. 

When one girt-line of a side is not enough, others are rove in- 
side in the same manner. The generality of ships reeve them 
inside of the lower rigging, as they are much easier got down, 
and the hammocks are not so likely to get dirty, or overboard. 



250.— STOPPING ON HAMMOCKS. 

Every man should be obliged to have three knittle-stops at the 
head, and two at the foot of his hammock. When stopping on, 
they should overlay at each side about two or three inches, and 
be stopped together at the foot — numbers up and in. 

The forecastle-men should stop their hammocks on forward, 
next foretop-men, next maintop-men, next mizentop-men, next 
after-guard, idlers, and bo}^s. Boatswain's mates abreast of each 
hatchway. 



251.— FURLING OR STOWING THE BUNT OF A 

SAIL. 

When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse 
it well up, lower the buntlines, and shove the sail well into the 
skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square ; pass and secure the 
bunt-gasket— take off the jigger — lower and square the studding- 
sail booms, and pass the heel-lashings. 



252.— FURLING COURSES. 

The leeches are handed in along the yard, then the sail rolled 
up snug, with the ends of the points passed in towards the bunt, 
to give the sail a gradual increase in that direction. Pass the 
gaskets, lower the booms, and, if required, stop up the gear. 

Bowlines are stopped to the slings close down, and hauled taut 
on the forecastle. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 141 

The bowline-bridles of all sails, in furling, are laid with the 
toggle towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard. 

When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor be- 
low the yard — earings well slewed up — sail smooth under the gas- 
kets, bunt square, and a taut skin. The heels of the booms 
should be square, and every thing necessary completed, previous 
io squaring the yards. 



253.— MAKING UP SAILS. 

In making up a course, stretch the head of the sail well taut 
cilong the deck or loft ; bring up to the head the belly-band, then 
the foot, leaving the clew-blocks out at each end ; also the bow- 
line-bridles, and roll taut up ; pass the head-earing round the 
sail close inside the bolt-rope, and put a stop of good spun-yarn 
to every seam. The reef earings are made up in the sail. 

In making up a topsail, stretch the head of the sail taut along ; 
bring the second reef up to the head, and lay all the points and 
earings snugly along ; then bring up the belly-band, and then the 
foot. The clew-blocks, bowline-bridles, reef-tackles, and toggles 
or span, should be left out, so that when the sail is sent aloft for 
bending, the sheets can be rove, reef-tackles and bowlines toggled, 
without loosing the sail, which will be found of great advantage 
when blowing fresh. Roll well up, stop with spun-yarn at each 
seam, and expend the head-earings round the ends of the sail. 

Topgallant-sails are made up with the clews out, and bowline- 
bridles, (if wished,) but they are always bent to the yards on deck ; 
so the neater, they can be made up the better. 

Note. — The reef-earings of the topsails should be secured to 
the cringles, before rolling up ; bowline-hitch the end of the first 
reef-earing to the head, second to the first, third to the second, and 
fourth to the third reef cringles ; as there is sometimes much 
trouble in getting hold of an earing when it is not secured as above. 

All spare sails should be tallied, before being stowed in the sail- 
100m, as it will prevent all mistakes ; but if a sail is properly 
stowed, and the master and sailmaker take a list when they are 
stowing, there never can be any difficulty in finding what may 
be wanted. 

Royals are made up the same as topgallant-sails. 



142 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



254.— TO MAKE UP A TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL. 

Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the downhaul through 
the thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the 
leech. Then roll up towards the inner leech, lay the sheets 
along the whole length of the sail, roll up oyer all, and stop the 
sail well up with spun-yarn or foxes. The earings are expended 
round the head of the sail when bent to the yard. 

Note. — The topgallant studding-sail is also made up in the same 
manner. 



255.— FUELING FORE AND AFT SAILS, (WITH 
CLOTHS OR COVERS.) 

The jib is hauled close down, and the sea-gasket passed round 
it. The cloth is then placed over, and the stops tied. Eyelet- 
holes are made in each edge for the stops. Jib-sheets and hal- 
liards stopped, and hauled taut. 

Furling Spanker. — It is also furled best with a cover ; it can 
be furled in the two after cloths, the same as a jib, but it never 
looks so well, takes time, and in most instances has to be loosed 
two or three times before it gives satisfaction. 

In furling with a cover, the sail is brailed close up, and the 
cover stopped round, commencing from the end of the gaff, and 
working in to the mast, and down on deck. 

Trysails are stOAved in the same manner as spankers. 

The fore-topmast staysail is stowed as a jib, in the netting* 

Note. — Stowing fore and aft sails requires more handy-work 
than seamanship, the principal thing being to furl them in the 
smallest compass, and in the after cloths, as it brings the seams 
up and down. I have seen staysails admired for their neatness 
from the deck, when the greater part of the sails were lying 
loose in the top. This should be avoided as much as possible, 
as something should be sacrificed in appearance, to preserve a 
sail from injury. Taking a little trouble will get all the sail in 
the skin ; and although it may be larger, it can be made to look 
neat. 

Jibs require more pains taken in stowing, than any of the other 
fore and aft sails. There is no necessity of stowing them in 
their own cloths, when furling cloths are allowed. (See allowance). 



* Canvass bottoms are used instead of nettings, for staysails. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 143 



256.— REEFING COURSES TO JACKSTAYS. 

When this plan is adopted there is only one point requisite, 
and that on the fore side of the sail ; some use two, but it is un- 
necessary. 

Reeve the point through the eyelet-hole from the after side, 
the points being made with eyes. Through the eyes reeve a 
small sized rope ; this is called the jack-line. Between every 
four eyelet-holes, stitch the rope well to the sail, on each yard- 
arm, leaving three points out. Take a piece of small rope, splice 
one end to the eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, reeve it through 
that left in the reef, and splice the other end into the same eye 
let hole in the head, leaving about two feet slack. This will be 
found of much use in gathering the sail up for reefing — it is 
called a grab-rope, or reef-line. 



257 .— REEF-E ARINGS 

Are fitted the same as the head — an eyelet-hole is worked be- 
low the cringle, large enough to take the earing; through this 
put the earing, reeve the end through the long-eye, and haul it 
taut through. The earings are sometimes put in the cringles, 
but the cringle cannot be so well hauled up on the 3>ard, and 
consequently will not be so well secured for carrying sail ; and it 
not only puts more strain on the yard-arm points, but also injures 
the sail. They are also fitted on the bight, and passed 'on both 
ends; one end for the outer turns, and the other the inner turns. 

To pass a reef-earing. — For the first, second, and third reef, 
take it from the sail, on the foreside of the yard, round the cleat 
for the purpose, through the cringle, round the yard and through 
the cringle, until three or four outer turns are passed ; then reeve 
the bight through the* cringle from aft forward — take a round 
turn in the cringle ; then take the end from the latter under the 
yard up abaft over, and through the bight ; then back over the 
yard on the foreside, through the cringle, from underneath the 
yard ; slew the cringle well up, and leech off the sail, and pass 
sufficient turns to secure ; then expend the end round the yard 
and half-hitch round all, or a clove-hitch to the lift. 

A close reef-earing is passed the same way, but hauled out on 
the after side of the yard. Being hauled out abaft, it covers all 
the other reefs, and there being so much sail on the fore-side, it 
would never keep up. 



144 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

In passing the outer turns for each reef, take two for the first ; 
three for the second and third, and four for the fourth. For the 
inner turns, expend the earing, except your earings are fitted on 
the bight. 



258.— BENDING STUDDING-SAILS. 

All are bent to the yard alike, and the same precautions used 
as in other sails, keeping the rope next the yard. The earings 
are rove through the holes in the yard-arms, and cringle in the 
head of the sails ; two or three outer turns are taken, and the 
earing nearly expended in inner turns, then frap the outer turns 
together with the end, and half-hitch, if the sail is laced to the 
yard — the lacing is spliced into one eyelet-hole, rove through the 
other, and passed round the yard. 

They are sometimes bent by half-hitching the lacing, which 
plan keeps the sail up, and much closer to the yard. A round 
turn is also used, by being passed round the yard-arm and 
through the eyelet-hole twice, and from the latter through the 
next eyelet-hole, round the yard. They are then made up — the 
topmast studding-sail to the foremost shrouds oflfore and main 
rigging ; topgallant, in foremost part of the topmast rigging ; and 
lower, on the booms. The topmast studding-sail is also some- 
times kept on the booms, and tarpaulin covers fitted for them. 

These sails are sometimes bent with long rope-bands, and un- 
bent when taken in and stowed away, if dry. 

In making up a 
topmast studding- 
sail, when bent, 
overhaul the down- 
haul the length of 
the luff or outer 
leech ; then take 
the foot up to the 
yard, and place the 
tack block out. 
Bight the down- 
haul along the 
yard, also the 
sheets ; roll the 
sail snugly up, and 
stop it with yarns. 
Lower studding- 
sails are bent and 

made up in the same manner as topmast studding-sails, with the 

sheet in. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 145 

I have seen these sails when placed in the rigging ready for 
setting, with the sheets and downhaul left out and stopped to the 
yards ; the tack stopped from the lower yard, up and down the 
foremost shroud and bent to the sail. This was done with the 
idea that the sail could be set much quicker ; but it was found 
that the sail on the opposite side (which was set in the general 
way), was set with less trouble, and in less time. There will be 
plenty of time to bend the tack and halliards (when the order is 
given to get ready), while getting burtons up, jiggers on topsail- 
lift, weather-braces taut, and rigging the booms out. 

Note. — The topgallant studding-sail tack is generally kept 
bent, and slacked when bracing the yards up. 

It has frequently occurred to me, when I have heard the order 
from the quarter-deck, in the event of setting studding-sails, " to 
rig out and hoist away;" how can it be possible to rig out the 
fore-topmast studding-sail booms, when probably there may be 
fifty men clapped on the lower studding-sail halliards, hauling 
the booms in, and seldom more than six or eight men at the 
most, on the in-and-out jigger, trying to get the boom out. 

I should recommend to rig-out and secure first, then hoist 
away. 



259.— PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE WHARF 
AND HAULING OUT IN THE STREAM. 

To haul off and moor ship. — Before hauling off, all the spare 
spars should be hoisted in and secured, boat's chocks placed, all 
the stores, provisions, and water got on board ; it would be also 
well to see that there is a sufficient quantity of brooms, bath- 
brick for cleaning bright-work, lime and size for whitewash, 
and everything that is allowed and requisite for the ship. The 
complement of men from the receiving ship should be got on 
board, and the boats provided with crews, oars, and sails. When 
everything necessary is completed, make preparations for hauling 
off. Get up kedges and hawsers ready for instant service ; have 
the ends of the hawsers pointed up each hatchway, ready for 
handing out if wanted. Run out a kedge, and drop it where the 
first, or weather-anchor is to be planted ; have lines from the 
ship to the shore — single the fasts — hang over fenders and out- 
riggers — man the hawser, cast off the fasts, and warp off ; check- 
ing her as may be necessary by the lines. When warped out to 
the kedge, run it up to the bows, and let go the weather anchor ; 
veer as fast as she will take it assisting her in going astern by 
the mizen-topsail, if necessary. If to shoot her to either side, use 
the helm, jib, or spanker, and in case there is no wind, use kedges 
and hawsers. 

10 



146 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

When a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and let go the 
second anchor — furl the mizen-topsail — bring-to on the weather 
cable, and heave in to the moorings ; moor a little taut, to allow 
for veering. If a hemp-cable, clap on the service, and veer to 
the hawse-hole. 



260.— CARRYING OUT AN ANCHOR WITH A BOAT. 

Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat by good stoppers, and 
have the buoy and buoy-rope attached to it ; pass the end of the 
cable or hawser out through the hawse-hole, and coil away enough 
of it in the bows of the boat, to reach the bottom. Now capsize 
the coil in the stem -sheets, and then the end will be uppermost; 
bend on to the anchor. There should also be a sufficient length 
of the hawser coiled away in the boat to reach the place destined 
for the anchor. When in the right place, heave over the buoy, 
and see that the buoy-rope is clear — stand clear of the cable, and 
slip the stoppers. In case of making a guess-warp, vice versa. 



261.— MARKING THE LEAD-LINE. 

At two fathoms, two strips of leather ; at three fathoms, three 
strips of leather ; at five fathoms, a white rag ; at seven fathoms, 
a red rag ; at ten fathoms, a piece of leather with a hole in it ; 
at thirteen, the same as three ; at fifteen, the same as five ; at 
seventeen, the same as seven ; at twenty fathoms, two knots. 

Deep-sea lead-lines are marked the same, as far as twenty fa- 
thoms, then add one knot for every ten fathoms, and a strip of 
leather for every five fathoms. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



147 



262.— HEAVING THE LEAD 



A hole is made in the upper part of 
the lead, a piece of rope rove through it, 
and both ends spliced together ;* an eye 
is spliced in the end of the line, put 
through this strap, the lead shoved 
through the bight, and hauled taut. 

Breast ropes are fitted in the chains, 
for the men to lean against when heav- 
ing the lead. They are made as sword- 
mats, tapered at each end, and secured 
to two shrouds, with seizings passed 
round them, and through the eyes in 
each. 

Heaving the lead is generally per- 
formed by a man who stands in the 
main chains to windward. Having the 
line all ready to run out, without inter- 
ruption, he holds it at a distance of 
nearly a fathom from the lead, and hav- 
ing swung it backwards and forwards 
three or four times, in order to acquire a, 
greater velocity with the swing, he then swings it over his head, 
and thence as far forward as is necessary ; so that by the lead 
sinking whilst the ship advances, the line may be almost perpen- 
dicular when it reaches the bottom. The person sounding then 
proclaims the depth of water, in a kind of singing manner. 
Thus : if the mark of five fathoms is close to the surface of the 
water, he sings out, " by the mark 5 !" and, as there are no marks 
at 4, 6, 8, &c, he estimates those numbers, and sings, "by the 
deep 4 !" &c. If he considers it to be a quarter, or a half, more 
than any particular number, he sings out, " and a quarter 5 !" 
" and a half 4 !" &c. If he conceives the depth to be three quar- 
ters more than a particular number, he calls it a quarter less than 
the next ; thus, at four fathoms and three-quarters, he calls, " a 
quarter less 5 !" and so on, according to the depth of the water. 




* A leather becket may be used for light leads, insead of a rope strap. 



148 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



263.— MARKING A LOG-LINE. 




Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in a white 
rag; then at every forty-seven feet and six-tenths, mark the line 
as follows, viz.: at one, one leather ; at two, two knots ; at three, 
three knots ; and also having a mark at every half-knot. The 
glasses should be proved with a good watch, having a second- 
hand. 

The principle of the log-line is, that a knot is the same part 
of a sea-mile, that half-a-minute is of an hour; -therefore the 
length of a knot should be one-hundred-and-twentieth the length 
of a sea mile, or fifty-one feet ; but as it is more convenient to 
have the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the pro- 
portional reduction is necessary in the glass. Therefore as 51 
feet : 30 seconds : : 48 feet : 28, 4.17 seconds; but as the frac- 
tion can be more easily allowed in the line than the glass, another 
proportion is necessary, viz., as 28, 4.17 seconds : 48 feet : : 28 
seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a knot. 

Note. — Log-lines are kept on reels for the purpose. 

The length of the stray-line is regulated by the size of the 
ship. 



264.— GETTING BEADY FOR SEA. 

Observe and note the exact line of flotation. See that all the 
rigging is properly up, alow and aloft. See that the preventer- 
gear is on, as well as breast-ropes for leadsmen, and leads and 
lines in the chains. If requisite, grease the masts, jib and stay- 
sail-stays, lifts and trusses, and reef-pendants — sheet-anchor 
stowed — guns secured — boats hoisted in and secured. Care 
should be taken that the harness-casks are lashed — chests and 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



149 



tables properly cleated, and binnacles secured. Let the armorer 
examine the slip-stoppers, and see that they are oiled, and in 
proper condition — get the swinging-booms fore and aft — awnings 
below, and awning ridge-ropes down — down jack-staff — see that 
the tiller-ropes are all clear, and that the tiller moves freely ; also 
that the relieving- tackles and spare tiller-ropes are at hand. 

Cross topgallant yards, bend the gear; take the covers off the 
jibs, staysail, spanker, and trysails, and coil every rope down clear, 
for running — have the studding-sails stopped, ready for going 
aloft, and the royal-halliards down on the weather side. Cat and 
fish overhauled down. Timenoguys in their respective places. 
Life-buoys in order. Accommodation-ladder unshipped and 
stowed away. Pendants and ladders taken off the swinging- 
booms — head-cranes unshipped — chafing-gear on its respective 
places. It would also be well to see that there is a sufficiency of 
sand on board. 



265.— CLEAR HAWSE. 




Call all hauds to " clear hawse." Lash a stout single-block to 
the bowsprit, through which reeve the clear hawse-pendant: 
haul the launch under the bows, or if there is too much sea on, 
or she is not out, send a hand down in a bowline, and hook the 
pendant to the riding-cable, below the turn ; bouse them up clear 
of the water, after which pass a stout lashing round both cables. 

If there should be a heavy sea on, or the wind flawey and 
variable, it would be well to pass the end of a hawser out of the 
hawse-hole, and hitch it to the cable,* to relieve the lashing. 
Reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bowsprit end, for 
bow-lines, and pass them in at the hawse-hole, so as to take out 
an elbow ; for instance — suppose the starboard was the clearing 
cable, take the larboard bow-line down under the cable, up into 
the starboard hawse-hole, and the starboard one over to the lar- 
board side of the cable ; then follow the lead of the larboard bow- 
line, bend on several fathoms inside, and stop along to the hawse- 

* See clear hawse-shackle and pendant. 



150 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

hole ; draw the splice, or unshackle, bend on the hawse-rope, off- 
stoppers, and run out ; hang the bights to the bowsprit (if hemp- 
cable), with slip-ropes, and send in the bow-lines again, the same 
way as before. When the end is out, " cast off," dip it fair, and 
bend on again to the cable ; rouse in, slack down the slip-ropes, 
and splice or shackle the cable ; haul it taut with a deck-tackle, 
and bitt, and stopper as before. Cast off the hawser, unlash the 
cable, unreeve the clear hawse-pendant, unlash the block from 
the bowsprit end, and clear up the deck. 

Note. — If there is a round turn and an elbow in the hawse 
after rousing the cable, repeat the operation as before; it is 
always well to prevent confusion, by taking out one elbow at a 
time. A cross, is when the cables lay across each other, or when 
the ship has swung foul once ; an elbow is two crosses, and a 
round turn is three crosses ; a round turn and elbow is five cross- 
es. It can readily be seen thus, in clearing hawse with a round 
turn, a cross will be left in the cables. 

The anchor is fouled in the very operation of letting- it go ; 
the weight of the chain-cable causing the running out part to 
fall over and foul the stock. To avoid this, some officers pursue 
the practice of "letting go" the anchor with the cable bitted, 
which plan is strongly recommended. 

From the weight of the chain-cable, compared with that of the 
hempen, the former is less liable than the latter to foul the an- 
chor ; but no speculation should induce an officer to depart from 
that practice which can alone ensure a clear anchor. 



266.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH THE LAUNCH. 

This may be done by under-running, when the ship has slip- 
ped the cable, or weighing by the buoy-rope, when the anchor is 
lying in too shoal water for the ship to be hove up to it. 

Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, have strong tackles 
with a jigger also, and some good rope for stoppers. Get the end 
of the cable over the roller ; pass a strap round it, to which hook 
the double block of the tackle, and the single one to a bolt in the 
bows; man the fall, and as the cable comes in, French-flake it 
along the thwarts; when the tackle comes two blocks, "stopper 
and fleet;" when the cable is "up and down," clap the jigger on 
the fall of the tackle, and heave the boat's stern well down in 
the water, and stopper securely. Send all the men in the bows 
of the boat ; jump the boat and break the anchor out of the 
ground ; then man the fall again, off stopper, and heave up ; 
when the ring of the anchor is above water, pass a short ring- 
stopper, haul the buoy on board, and bring the boat to the ship ; 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



151 



when alongside, hook the cat, and cat the anchor. Get the end 
of the cable unclinched, passed into the hawse, and the remain- 
der hauled out of the launch. (If chain-cable, unshackle.) 



267.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH A BUOY-ROPE. 




Get the buoy-rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, and weigh 
the anchor as before. When it is secured, man the capstan, 
heave the launch in under the bows, and cat the anchor. 

Anchors are generally weighed with the buoy-rope when the 
cable has parted, and the end cannot be grappled ; when this is 
the case, the anchor may be weighed with launch, brought un- 
der the bows and catted, and the cable unclinched and hove in ; 
or the ship might be warped over the buoy, and the cat-fall taken 
to the buoy-rope. 



152 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

268.— BOATING AN ANCHOR. 



Place the flukes perpendicularly over the stern, and the stock 
a- thwart-ships in the stern sheets, resting horizontally upon a 
loose thwart, placed there previously for the purpose, and steady 
all by one or two lashings. 

In letting go, nothing more is required than to cant the anchor 
over the quarter, by means of the thwart, taking care previously 
that the buoy, buoy-rope, and cable, be perfectly clear. 

Light anchors should be boated contrary to this, i. e., flukes 
inboard, and stock out. 



269.— TAKING IN A LAUNCH.' 

Brace and secure the yards the same as when getting up the 
anchors, and also rig the same purchases ; place the chocks, pass 
everything out of the launch, and hook the purchases to spans ; 
have a few hands in the boat to keep her clear of the ship's side. 
Man the yard tackle falls ; have some hands to take in the slack 
of the stay fall ; "walk away ;" when the boat leaves the water, 
take out the plug. When high enough to clear the waist anchor 
stock, haul over on the main stay, easing away the fore and 
main yards ; when the stern is over the deck, haul over the fore 
stay, lower, and place her in the chocks. 

The other boats may be got on board by the same purchases. 
The launch is stowed on the larboard side ; the first cutter on the 
starboard side ;* the second cutter, inside the launch, and the 
third cutter inside the first. When all are in, unrig the purchases, 
square the yards, and set up the gripes. 

The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to their davits, and 
secured to them by stoppers, and the gripes set up. 



♦ i. c, if the ship be a frigate or larger. Single-deck ships have but one nest 
of boats. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



153 



270.— TAKING IN BOATS BOTH SIDES AT ONCE. 

The yards are kept square, and secured on both sides by the 
lifts, burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the winding and stay tackles 
for the heaviest boats, and the yard tackles for the lightest ones ; 
the topsail halliards forward, and the main pendant tackle aft, 
acting as stays to bring them on board. It may be necessary to 
come up the forward backstays, as they would be likely to inter- 
fere with the bows of the boats ; after w T hich proceed as before. 

Taking in a boat at sea. — Back the main-topsail, get the boat 
to leeward, secure the lower yards as before directed, and hoist 
her in. The boat coming in to leeward, tackles will be neces- 
sary to get her to windward sufficiently to lower away. 

When before the wind, a boat might be got in by securing the 
yards as before, and taking a hawser from aft to the stern of the 
boat, to keep her from sending or pitching forward when leaving 
the water, and thereby endangering the yards. 

Note. — Some of our large vessels have two sets of yard and 
stay tackles, for the purpose of taking in boats both sides at once ; 
but the above mentioned gear will answer all purposes in any 
case of emergency, where the manoeuvre is not considered as ex- 
ercising. 




PART IV. 



271.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH. 

See that the hawse is clear ; overhaul a range of the weather 
cable — get up nippers — pass the messenger — knock up the stan- 
chions — ship the gratings — ship, and swifter-in the capstan bars 
— rig the fish-davit — overhaul cat and fish ; and call " all hands 
unmoor ship." 

When the cable grows with the angle of the-main-stay, the 
ship is said to ride at a "long stay;" when it grows with the 
angle of the fore-stay, the ship is said to be at a " short-stay." 
When perpendicular, the phrase is " up and down." From one 
or other of the two last mentioned positions, sail is generally 
made in getting under^weigh. 

If from the nature of the ground, or strength of the wind, 
there should be any probability of dragging the anchor, sail is 
generally made from a " short stay." In such a case, particular 
attention ought to be paid that the head yards be not braced too 
sharp a-box ; for the object being to cant the ship with the least 
possible sternway, the sooner the head sails lift or fill the better. 
The jibs are hoisted the instant they will take. If, after all, the 
ship drags her anchor, you can pall the capstan — stopper over all. 
brace round the head yards, and force her a-head by the sails, as 
far as may be necessary ; then back the head yards, lay-to, and 
get the anchor up. $ 

If there should be so much wind and sea, as to make it a matter 
of difficulty to get the anchor, but plenty of sea-room, brace the 
yards a-box, according to the tack you wish to go upon, and get 
the anchor up and secured before making sail. In moderate 
weather, and ordinary circumstances, sail is generally made when 
the cable is "up and down." Sometimes a stern-board is neces- 
sary, with the anchor dragging on the ground ; at other times, a 
tack must be made in that position. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 155 

If riding by the starboard cable, and no impediment to port, it 
will be the most eligible method, to cast her on the starboard tack, 
as the cable will then be clear of the cutwater, and the ship 
being to leeward of the anchor, it can be more easily catted and 
fished. If there should be much sea on, this would be the best 
plan. 

Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, overhaul the 
lifts, trusses, and backstay-falls. The fore-topsail being put aback, 
by the starboard braces ; the main and mizen by the wind, with 
larboard after braces, heaving around briskly, and before breaking 
ground, give her a shear with the starboard helm ; when up, hoist 
the jib, keeping the helm a-starboard, until the stern-board ex- 
ceeds the velocity of the tide, when shift it, grapple the buoy, 
and cat the anchor. When she has fallen off, so as to fill the 
after sails, let flow the jib-sheet, haul out the spanker, set top- 
gallant sails and courses, and trim the yards and sails properly. 

To cast off on the larboard tack, put the helm a-port, and brace 
the yards the contrary way. 



272.— WHEN THE MESSENGER STRANDS, OR IS 
LIKELY TO PART. 

If the messenger is likely to part, from the great strain upon it, 
stopper immediately, and either pass a new one r or reeve a viol 
purchase, assisting it with the cat-fall. Lash the viol block to 
the cable near the hawse-hole ; clinch one end of the hawser to 
the main-mast, snatch the bite in the block, and take the other 
end to the capstan. To assist the viol, pass a strap round the 
cable, close down to the water, to which hook the cat-fall, and 
heave up on both purchases. 

If the messenger should strand, stopper immediately, cut it, 



and then knot or splice it. 




156 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 



273.— TO GET UNDER-WEIGH AND STAND BEFORE 
THE WIND. 




Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, heave-in, and 
make sail as before. Lay the main and mizen topsails square 
aback ; the fore one sharp aback, according to the side it is in- 
tended to cast — heave-in, cant her the right way with the helm 
before tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern-board is 
greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, grapple the buoy, 
run up the jib as soon as it will take, and haul aft the weather- 
sheet. While falling off, cat and fish the anchor ; as she gathers 
head-way, shift the helm ; when before the wind, right it — square 
the head yards, and brail up the jib — set topgallant sails, royals, 
and foresail — haul taut the lifts, trusses, backstay-falls, and if 
necessary, set the studding-sails. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 



157 



274.— IN GETTING UNDER-WEIGH, TO BACK ASTERN 
AND AVOID DANGER. 




Make all preparations as before. If required to cast on the 
starboard tack, sheer her with the starboard helm ; to bring the 
wind on the starboard bow, brace the yards aback, about half- 
way up with the larboard braces ; haul out the spanker and keep 
the boom nearly amid-ships. Heave up briskly, grapple the buoy, 
and as soon as the anchor is up, put the helm hard a- weather to 
keep her to — cat and fish the anchor. Having made sufficient 
stern-board, shift the helm, brace the after yards, ease off the 
spanker sheet, and run up the jib. When full aft, brace up the 
head yards, and as she gathers headway, right the helm and 
make sail. To cast on the larboard tack, sheer her with the 
port helm, brace all sharp aback, and proceed as before. 



275.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH- 
EACH BEAM. 



■A SHOAL ON 



It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is impossible to 
weather either of those a-beam ; but there is just room to pass 
between a shoal astern, and either of those a-beam, with the wind 
blowing fresh. 

Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter ports ; bend on 
one end to the cable, and secure the other to the topsail sheet- 



L58 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



bitts ; draw the splice* of the cable, bend a slip-buoy to it, and 
heave it overboard. See the stoppers clear for slipping ; stop 
the topsails to the yards with spun-yarn, casting off the gaskets. 
Loose the courses, jib, and spanker — mast-head the topsail-yards 
— man the jib-halliards — sheer her from the cable with the helm 
—slip and run up the jib— keep fast the stream-cable, and let 
her swing round. When she heads for the passage, slip the 
stream-cable, right the helm, sheet home the topsails, set the 
courses, and other sails if necessary ; then stand through the 
passage. 



216.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH IN A NARROW 
CHANNEL. 

At anchor in a narrow 
channel, riding to a strong 
leeward tide, and blowing 
fresh ; a ship astern, and 
also one on each quarter, so 
near that there is not room 
to wear, for casting ; it is ne- 
cessary to put to sea, and to 
do so a passage must be ef- 
fected between the two ships. 
Make all preparations for 
getting under-weigh, and 
heave-in as described before. 
Loose the topsails ; if riding by the star-board cable, give her a 
rank sheer with the starboard helm : set up the starboard back- 
stays, and bear aft the larboard ones ; overhaul lifts and trusses ; 
haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on the larboard 
quarter ; lead along the main tack and sheet ; run up the jib, 
and haul aft the weather sheet ; " Heave round cheerily ;" run 
the anchor up, grapple the buoy, and as soon as she fills, meet 
her with the helm ; board the main tack to catch her; trim the 
jib and spanker sheets, set the foresail, and trim sharp ; haul 
taut the bowlines ; stand on as far as may be necessary. 




Note. — A good deal of uncertainty attends this manoeuvre ; if 
there is room, it would be the best plan to lay the yards aback. 
It is confidently asserted by old experienced seamen, that the 
above method is perfectly practicable. 



* If chain cable, unshackle. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 159 

27 7.— HEAD TO WIND, CAST ON STARBOARD TACK. 




Everything having been previously prepared, heave in and 
make sail as before. Sheer her with a starboard helm ; brace the 
head yards sharp up with the starboard braces, and counter brace 
the after ones ; haul out the spanker, and get the boom on the 
larboard quarter ; heave in, and up anchor ; up jib as soon as 
it will take ; and when the stern-board exceeds the velocity of 
the tide, shift the helm. When the after sails are full, trim the 
spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the anchor, haul aft 
the jib sheet, brace round the head-yards, and make sail. 



278.— WINDWARD TIDE— GET UNDER-WEIGH AND 
STAND BEFORE THE WIND. 

Make all preparation for getting under- weigh, heave in, loose 
jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, run up the jib, cat and fish the 
anchor, and make sail with expedition. 

If it is necessary to have the ship under greater command, 
as might be the case in a narrow channel, or crowded harbor, 
: t would be better to proceed as follows : — 

Heave in to a " short stay," loose the courses, topsails, jib and 
spanker. If riding by the starboard cable, sheer her with the 



160 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

starboard helm, and bring the wind on the larboard quarter . 
brace the yards to, by the larboard braces, and keep them shiver- 
ing by the helm. " Heave up ;" fill the after yards, and square 
the head ones ; haul aft jib sheet on starboard tack ; cat and fish 
the anchor ; up helm; fill the head yards, shiver the after ones, 
get her before the wind, and make sail. 



279.— TO GET UNDER-WEIGH, AND STAND OUT ON 

A WIND. 




Make all preparations — commence heaving in ; loose jib and 
spanker ; top up and bear over the boom on the right quarter, 
and the helm to the side which it is intended to cast ; "heave 
up ;" get the buoy ; haul out on the spanker as soon as it will 
take. When the wind gets abeam, run up the jib, and meet her 
with the helm ; cat and fish the anchor ; loose, sheet home, and 
hoist the topsails, brace up, bring by and make sail. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 161 

280.— RIDING HEAD TO TIDE, WIND ON THE STAR- 
BOARD QUARTER, TO GET UNDER-WEIGH ON THE 
STARBOARD TACK. 

Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, sheet home 
and hoist the topsails, bracing them to with the starboard braces ; 
keep them shivering, by the assistance of the topsails and helm, 
— " heave round," — break ground — put the helm a-starboard — 
brace full the head yards — run up the jib, and let her pay round 
to port ; heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy. Haul out 
the spanker as soon as it will take — shift over the head sheets. 
and square the head yards — trim aft the jib-sheet, and meet her 
with the helm. Cat and fish the anchor, and make sail as neces- 
sary. 



281,— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH— WIND ACROSS THE 

TIDE. 

In getting under- weigh, say ebb-tide, make all preparations, 
loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails ; brace up the fore and 
mizen topsails, and lay the main yard to the mast. Give her a spoke 
or two of the lee wheel, so as to take the main -topsail well aback. 
il Heave up," cat and fish the anchor, and grapple the buoy ; at 
the same time, set the jib and spanker — fill the main yard, 
stand on to a convenient place, and then tack or veer. 

The evolution is determined by the circumstance of there being 
more room to windward or to leeward. 

Flood- Tide. — Proceed as before, until the anchor is catted and 
fished ; then hoist tb* ]}h t haul out the spanker, fill the main- 
topsail, and stand -y/, making whatever sail may be judged 
necessary. 




11 



162 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



282.— TO BACK AND FILL IN A TIDE-WAY. 

This manoeuvre is 
only executed when 
a ship is to proceed 
up or down a rapid 
river against the 
wind, which is sup- 
posed to be light, and 
may be done by 
two methods, viz., 
driving before the 
wind, or broadside 
to it. When the 
channel is broad 
enough, the latter 
method is preferable, 
as the ship will be 

more under the command of her helm. 




283.— DRIVING BEFORE THE WIND. 

This is only done in a very narrow 
channel. Heave up the anchor, and get 
her before the wind, with just sail enough 
to keep her so. Suppose her under top- 
sails, and as she drops with the tide, it 
becomes necessary for her to remain sta- 
tionary, to allow a ship to pass her stern, 
— set topgallant-sails, and if required to 
shoot ahead, drop the foresail. If to avoid 
a rock, or ship astern, put the helm up or 
down — haul out the spanker — brace up, 
and haul aft the jib-sheet, as she comes too ; shoot across until clear 
of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the spanker, shiver 
the after yards, and when before the wind, brail up the jib. If 
in standing across, she should get too near the shore — get heron 
the other tack, by wearing or box-hauling. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 163 



284.— DRIVING BROADSIDE-TO. 

Get under- weigh, and bring her by the wind under the jib, 
topsails, and spanker ; shiver the topsails ; when filled, stand on 
to the middle of the channel ; brail up the jib and spanker, and 
let her drift in this situation until she falls off, which she will 
soon do, owing to her greater immersion aft than forward, which 
will drift her stern farther to windward. Haul out the spanker, 
and if this is insufficient, back the mizen-topsail ; if she still falls 
off, back the main also, both square aback, and if she should get 
a stern-boa id, put the helm hard a-weather ; should she come-to 
again, shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting her 
drift as before. 



285.— SECURING THE SHIP FOR SEA. 

Take the departure, give the course, and make sail. Beat to 
quarters — examine the magazine — load, shot, and secure the 
guns — see that all the gear of the guns is ready for service, and 
secured. Fill the shot-boxes, rack, and wad-nets — get the anchors 
on the bows, and lash them — unbend the cable and buoy-ropes ; 
if clean and dry, pay them below ; also the messenger, hawsers, 
stoppers and nippers, and cable-mats, put in the buckles — unreeve, 
cat and fish, and coil them away below. Get chafing-mats on 
the yards and rigging — see the booms and boats secured, pumps 
in good order, and the gratings and tarpaulins ready for putting 
on. Overhaul the storm-staysail gear, see everything ready for 
service, and stow it below again. 



286.— STOWING THE ANCHORS FOR SEA. 

The anchors being catted and fished, clap a stout tackle on 
them and cat-head stoppers ; pass a good lashing through the 
ring and over the cat-head — expend the stopper in the same way. 
Hook the pendant-tackle to a strap around the shank — weigh the 
crown, and bouse the fluke into the bill-port by a thwartship 
tackle ; having another tackle clapt on the end of the anchor-stock 
which is uppermost, getting it as close to the side as the stock 
will permit ; pass stout shank-lashings also around the stock and 
cat-head. Unbend the cable and buoy-rope. 



164 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



Note. — The waist-anchors are securely stowed when they are 
first got on board. Some ships use preventer lashings and jump- 
ers in bad weather, when the ship is lurching in a heavy sea, or 
when liable to ship seas in the waist. 



287.— SETTING TOPGALLANT SAILS— BLOWING 

FRESH. 




Point the yards to the wind, 
and loose the sails ; sheet home 
first to leeward, and then to wind- 
ward — having a hand to leeward 
to light the foot over the topmast 
stay ; hoist away, trim the yards, 
and haul taut the bow-lines. 

Note. — In setting topgallant 
sails over single-reefed topsails, 
see that the sheets are out 
square alike. 



288.— SETTING COURSES. 




Moderate weather. — Man the fore and main-tacks and sheets, 
attend the rigging — have hands on the lower yards to overhaul 
it — haul aboard — check the top bow-lines, weather lower lifts, and 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



165 



a little of the lee-main-brace — avast the sheets ; get the tacks 
close down, and then haul aft the sheets — haul taut the main- 
brace, lifts, trusses, and bowlines. 

Blowing fresh. — Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech-lines 
and lee-bunt-lines ; ease down the lee-clew-garnet, slack top 
bowlines, lower lifts, and lee-main-braces, until the tacks are 
down ; then haul aft the sheets, haul taut the lee-main-brace, 
weather lifts and bow-lines, and, if necessary, hook and haul taut 
the rolling-tackle, to ease the trusses. 



289.— SETTING THE SPANKER. 

Top-up the boom, overhaul lee-topping-lifts, attend the sheets 
and weather-guy ; haul over the lee-guy, and trim the boom — 
man the outhaul and attend the brails and vangs — let go the 
brails, haul out and steady the gaff by the vangs. 

Note. — The weather-vang should never be hauled, or boused 
too taut, as it may be the means of carrying away the gaff, 
especially when using trysails as storm-sails. 



290.— SETTING THE JIB. 




Cant the spritsail- yard to 
steady the boom ; man the hal- 
liards and sheet — see the down- 
haul and brails clear, take in the 
slack of the sheet to steady the 
sail; "hoist away;" and as the 
sail goes up, ease off the sheet — 
when taut up, haul aft the sheet. 



166 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



291.— SETTING LOWER STUDDING-SAILS. 

When the boom is out or a-thwartships, and trimmed with the 
fore yard, the outer halliards and outhauler are to be well man- 
ned, taking in the slack of the inner halliards, as the sail goes 
over the gunwale, and ultimately reaches its destined height. 
In running away with the lower halliards, care must be taken 
that the yard be not brought up with a jerk, against the topmast 
studding-sail boom ; by this sudden jerk booms are liable to be 
sprung. 



292.— SHIFTING A COURSE AT SEA. 

Moderate weather. — In shifting a course at sea, with the 
watch, and with time to prepare everything for a smart and 
pretty evolution — get the spare sail up from below, and first of 
all stretched across the deck. Then, the course being set, stop 
per the (tack and sheet) clews, and unbend tacks, sheets, clew- 
garnets, and leech-lines, bending them forthwith to the spare 
sail ; and, when done, untoggle the bowlines, and send the hands 
aloft — trice up, lay out, cast off robins and earings, and make 
the two midship robins fast to the bunt-lines — ease in the earings 
together, and make them also fast to the buntlines a-midships. 
Lower the sail by the bunt-lines, and gather it in by hand. Un- 
bend the bunt-lines, bend them to the spare sail, and take out 
the yard-ropes. 

Divide the watch to the yard-ropes, bunt-lines and clew-gar- 
nets, and haul taut ; haul out and up all together — hands aloft 
bring- to, and when brought-to, haul on board. 

Blowing fresh. — First haul the sail up and furl it; then pro- 
ceed to make fast the midship robins and earings (when cast off) 
to the bunt-lines, and to lower the sail down by the clew-garnets, 
as well as buntlines. 

Note. — In this case the weather-tack and sheet is of much use 
in hauling the sail in as it comes down. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Iflf 



293.— TAKING IN A COURSE IN A GALE OF WIND. 

Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the clew-garnets, 
bunt-lines, and leech-lines ; ease away the tack and bow-line — 
haul up to windward, ease off the sheet, haul up, get the sail 
close to the yard, and furl it. 

It is a common practice in clewing-up a course, to let go the 
bowline upon starting the tack. Neither the tack nor the bow- 
line should be let go, but each eased off handsomely by hand. 
By the adoption of this plan, the sail will bag less to leeward, 
and the weather-clew can be hauled up with greater ease ; but 
both buntlines should be well manned, and even better manned. 
than the weather clew-garnet. When the latter gear is well up, 
walk away with the clew-garnet, easing steadily the sheet. But 
all these precautions will be of little avail, unless there be a good 
preventer-brace upon the lower yard; or else the yard tackle be 
hooked to act as such, and brought sufficiently aft to prevent the 
tackle bringing too great a strain in an up-and-down position 
upon the upper yard-arms. 



294.— TAKING IN A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND 

Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding in the wea- 
ther topsail brace as much as possible. Man the clewlines and 
buntlines ; attend the sheets and bowlines ; clew up the lee-sheet, 
and haul up the buntline. If to save the yard, haul up to lee- 
ward first, point the yard to the wind, and steady it again ; lay 
out and furl the sail. 

There appears to be still a dispute among seamen as to the 
preferable method of effecting this service. 

When the mast is not considered in danger, and the object be 
to save the sail, or to ease the ship, the weather clew may be first 
lifted. But before starting the weather sheet, it would be well to 
ease first a few feet of the Zee-sheet, in order to lessen the labor 
of rounding in the weather brace. So soon as the lee-sheet be suffi- 
ciently eased to admit of the yard coming in with the weather 
brace, and both buntlines be as well manned as the weather 
clewline, the weather sheet may be then eased off, and the wea- 
ther cle vline hauled up, with every prospect of saving the sail. 

If there be plenty of sea room, and the ship can be kept away, 
some officers recommend the practice of bringing the wind abaft 
the beam, and then hauling up the lee-clewline first — taking 
the precaution to have both buntlines well manned. When this 
operation is effected, the weather clewline may be hauled up, 



168 *1'HE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

rounding the brace in, as the ship is again gradually brought to 
the wind. It will require particular attention to the helm when 
hauling up the weather clewline, though with judicious manage- 
ment, the helm alone is sufficient to spill the sail. 



295.— TAKING IN TOP-GALLANT SAILS. 

Man the topgallant clewlines ; lay aloft, and stand by to furl 
the sail ; attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, and halliards ; 
round in the weather braces, ease away the lee-sheet and hal- 
liards ; " lower away ;" ease away the weather sheet, clew up, 
haul up the buntlines ; steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail. 



296.— TAKING IN A SPANKER. 

Have the brails and weather vang well manned ; attend the 
outhaul and lee vang ; ease away the outhaul ; haul over on the 
weather vang ; brail up to leeward ; ease off the_ sheet ; haul 
taut the weather brails ; pass the foot gaskets ; steady the gaff, 
and crutch the boom. 



297.— SETTING A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL. 

Point the yard to the wind, and brace the lower yard a little 
sharper than the topsail yard. Man the sheets, attend the bunt- 
lines, and loose the sail ; overhaul the lee-buntline, ease down 
the lee-clewlines, and haul home the lee-sheet ; ease off the weather 
buntline ; at the same time slack down the weather clewline, and 
haul home the weather sheet. Hoist the yard up clear of the 
6ap ; brace up, and haul the bowline ; steady the lower and top- 
sail yards with the braces and rolling-tackles. 

Note. — It must be remembered that a close reefed topsail will 
not sheet close home, as the yard is to hoist clear of the cap. 



298.— A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL SPLITS. 

Clew up the sail and steady the yard ; cast off some of the rope- 
bands, so as to pass stops around the sail to secure it. Unbend 
the sheets, bowlines, and lee-buntlines ; unreeve lee-clewline and 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 169 

reef-tackle ; bend the weather buntline round the sail, and make 
the lee-earing fast to the buntline ; hook a burton to a strap 
round the sail, cast off all the rope-bands, and lower away ; ease 
away the weather earing and lower the sail on deck. Stretch 
along the new sail, overhaul it, then reef the sail at the foot, com- 
mencing at the close reef, and taking in each of the three lower 
reefs separately ; then bight it down, and send it aloft, as describ- 
ed before, observing to use the burtons before all. Reeve and 
bend the gear, stopping the head of the sail to the buntlines ; 
have yard-jiggers hooked to bring the sail to the yard — pass the 
earings and rope-bands, in the same manner ; bring the first reef 
to the yard, cast out the other reef, haul up the sail ; then bring 
the reefs to the yard alternately, after which set the sail as before. 



299.— A JIB SPLITS. 

Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and hoist the fore- 
topmast-staysail. Hitch the downhaul around the body of the 
sail, and also pass stops around it — take the end of a rope from 
the forcastle, and bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib- 
stays, bend a line on to the end and unreeve it — haul taut the 
halliards — ease off the downhaul, and haul in. Get up, and 
overhaul the spare sails ; seize on the sheet, bend the halliards 
and downhaul — stop the sail, and haul out by the downhaul and 
halliards — reeve the jib-stay, turn it in, and set it up ; pass the 
tack-lashings, reeve the brails, set the jib, and haul down the 
staysail. 



300.— TO WEAR SHIP UNDER CLOSE-REEFED MAIN- 
TOPSAIL AND STORM-STAYSAILS. 

Call all hands" wearship," and station them ; have lifts, trusses, 
and rolling-tackles attended, so the yard and topmast may be well 
supported in the heavy rolling which they are likely to experi- 
ence. Haul down the mizen storm-staysail, and when she falls 
off, up helm ; ease off the main storm-staysail sheet, and brace 
in the main and cross-jack yards ; at the same time taking care 
to keep the maintopsail full, to preserve the head-way, and to 
keep her a-head of the sea ; also to keep it from splitting. When 
the wind is on the quarter, haul down the main storm-staysail, 
and shift over the sheet ; when before the wind, right the helm, 
and square the head yards; shift over the fore storm-staysail 
sheet ; watch for a smooth time to bring-her-to ; then ease down 



170 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

the helm, hoist the mizen storm-staysail, and when the wind is 
on the quarter, brace up the yards, hoist the main storm-staysail, 
haul aft the fore storm-staysail sheet, meet her with the helm, 
trim the sails, and haul the maintop-bowline. 



301.— WEARING UNDER A MAINSAIL. 

Make fast a hawser to the slings of the main yard, take it 
down forward of the sail, haul it well taut, and belay it to the 
topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands and station them as in the last 
case ; take advantage of her falling off to put the helm up. 
Ease off the main sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the 
yards as in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down 
the cross-jack yard, and mizentopsail yard ; house the topmast, 
and get a drag over the lee quarter, after which proceed as before 
in bracing the yards, and bring by the wind. 



302.— WEARING UNDER BARE POLES. 

Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, and bend a 
hawser to it in-board. Send men in the weather fore rigging 
with tarpaulins ; up helm, and make use of the yards as usual. 

If she should not go off, it will be necessary, as a last resort, to 
cut away the mizen mast, veer away the hawser, and use the 
mizen topmast as a drag to assist in wearing. 



303 CUTTING AWAY THE MASTS. 

Clear away all the running rigging attached to the mast, cut 
away the lanyards of the lee rigging ; then the lanyards of the 
stays and weather rigging. 



304.— LAYING-TO UNDER LOWER STAYSAILS, WEAR 

SHIP. 

If it does not blow too fresh, the close-reefed mainsail may be 
set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to prevent the ship from being 
pooped ; then proceed as in veering under bare poles. If she 
should not go off, clap a lashing round the bunt of the foresail, 
and set the weather goose-wing. Should she still not go off, 
send down the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of 
them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen mast. 



PART V. 



305.— PRECAUTIONS FOE SCUDDING. 

When scudding in a heavy gale of wind, care should be taken 
that sufficient of lofty sail be carried on the vessel, to keep her 
freely and fairly before the sea. A ship will scud better with the 
sea right aft, than quartering. With a heavy sea, the danger to 
be apprehended is, that the wave traveling faster than the ship, 
may overtake and break over her. To avoid this, and diminish 
its danger, some such sail as a close-reefed topsail or foresail is 
generally kept set as long as possible ; but there are times when 
the foresail is not the best suited, nor the safest for scudding. 
Some ships that steer badly, and manifest an inclination to yaw, 
w T ill be more steadily steered, and easier managed when scudding 
under the fore-topsail and fore-staysail. Should the ship happen 
to broach-to, the foresail, in such a perilous situation, is an un- 
wieldy and unmanageable sail to clew up ; and when the sea 
strikes the ship on the quarter, and causes her head to round-to 
in the direction ot the wind, the main-topsail tends to assist the 
sea in producing this dangerous movement ; whereas, the fore- 
staysail, together with the fore-topsail, produces the contrary effect. 

It is deeply laden ships that are most liable to get pooped ; in 
which circumstance, a skilful foresight must be exercised in 
lightening them. 

Relieving-tackles should be hooked, and hands stationed to at- 
tend them ; spare tiller and rudder-chocks at hand, and perfectly 
ready for use ; for, if the ship should get pooped with a heavy 
sea, the tiller is likely to get snapped, the ship to broach-to, and 
the rudder, if not quickly secured, to be unhung, and after 
damaging the stern, to be lost. Wreck then almost immediately 
follows. 

When using the foresail, a tackle hooked to the lee fore-tack 
would be of service in filling the sail. 



172 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



306.— SCUDDING— A SHIP BROACHES-TO. 

Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if necessary ; 
shiver the after yards ; should she still come-to, and the sails are 
taken aback, brace about the head yards, and if necessary, use 
the helm. If she should get tod much stern-board in falling off, 
haul up the foresail, and pay her off with the fore storm-staysail ; 
fill the after yards as soon as possible, to gather headway, and 
when she has fallen off sufficiently, brace about the head yards, 
and trim as before. 

Note. — As in scudding, the safety of the ship depends entirely 
upon the steering, the greatest care should be taken that a 
steady and expert helmsman is stationed at the wheel, and that 
when his " trick" is out, and his " relief arrives to take his place, 
that he resigns not his hand at the helm, until his successor is 
in fall possession of the easiest method of steering the ship. 
The officer of the deck should also direct a compass to be placed 
in the gun-room, and be cautious that a competent seaman is 
there to attend the relieving tackles, and watch closely the steer- 
age of the ship by the compass-card. 

In frigates, and particularly flushed-decked vessels, whose bin- 
nacle-lights are liable to be extinguished by the wind, precaution 
should be taken that lighted lanterns are kept in readiness to 
supply the place of the blown-out lights. On dark and starless 
nights, when the steersman has no other guide to govern his steer- 
age than the compass-card, it is of the utmost importance that 
attention should be paid to this particular ; as in a number of in- 
stances the accident of broaching-to maybe traced to the "blow- 
ing out" of the binnacle lights, and carelessness of the helms- 
man. It requires a quick, small helm to steer a ship when scud- 
ding. 



307.— SCUDDING.— BROUGHT BY THE LEE. 

A ship is said to be " brought by the lee" when struck aback 
by a change of wind. If she has headway, which will probably 
be the case, put the helm a- weather, but if she has stern way, 
the contrary. Brace round the after yards, and when they are 
full, the head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but it is not 
thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the ship might get 
too rapid sternway, which would be dangerous in a heavy sea. 
As the object is to preserve the headway, the yards are braced 
round as soon as possible. If scudding under the main-topsail, 
and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the fore-topsail, 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 173 

for the main being nearer the centre of gravity, has less tendency 
to bury the ship, and she is consequently more easily steered. 

When scudding under the main-topsail and foresail, the ship 
is to be brought by the wind, and she should have a tendency to 
gripe, keep the foresail on her ; but if otherwise, take in the fore- 
sail, and set the fore storm-staysail ; brace up the head yards, 
then the after ones. Watch for a smooth time, and ease down 
the helm, taking care to meet her in due time. 

The reason for bracing up the head yards before luffing, is, in 
scudding the ship has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm 
very quickly ; moreover, the sea acting with violence on the 
quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and unless the head 
yards are braced up so as to prevent that, she will be in the same 
situation as if she had broached-to. 



308.— HEAVING-TO. 

Having determined from the known quality of the ship, what 
sail would be best to heave-to under ; bring by the wind as in 
the previous subject. If intending to lay-to under a main-topsail, 
when by the wind, haul up and furl the foresail, down foretop- 
mast-staysail ; if under lower-staysails, hoist them ; at the same 
time taking in the foresail and main-topsail. 

The helm is kept a-lee while laying-to, but not lashed down, 
it being considered best to have a little steerage-way on. 

Note. — It is best to bring by the wind under the square-sails, as 
the sLip is more under command than she would be if they were 
furled. 



309.— TAKING IN A LOWER STUDDING-SAIL— BLOW- 
ING FRESH. 

This is a much nicer operation than young officers generally are 
inclined to admit, and unless executed with caution and skill on 
the part of the officer " carrying on the duty" on deck, the proba- 
bility is, the topmast studding-sail boom will snap short in the 
iron, and the sail, swinging-boom gear and all, will have to 
be recorded in the log as " expended." When not sailing in a 
squadron, and the yaicing of the ship be a matter of minor im- 
portance, the officer of the watch is recommended to proceed as 
follows : — 

Place a steady helmsman at the wheel, and stand close to him ; 
man well the sheet, and lead it well aft along the deck ; also see 



174 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

that steady hands attend the tack and guys. When perfectly 
prepared, direct the helmsman with a " small helm," to bring 
the wind gradually on the opposite quarter, and the moment the 
body of the sail begins to lose the breeze, and the canvass in- 
clines to shiver, lower the outer halliards, ease the tack, and haul 
in on the sheet as rapidly as possible, lowering the inner halliards 
at the same time. 

Note. — More booms are sprung, and even snapped short in the 
iron, from the sudden jerk produced by lowering the lower hal- 
liards, when the sail is straiuing and bellying to the breeze, than 
by even carrying a powerful press of canvass. And here it may 
be well to impress upon the mind of the young seaman, that a 
judicious management of the helm, in almost every situation 
in which it can be placed, will not only aid the physical strength 
employed, but also greatly facilitate the service sought. 



310.— TO UNBEND A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND. 

Those who know the value of minutes to men perched aloft 
in a perilous position, will adopt that method which will event- 
ually cost the least time and trouble. The sail should be first 
furled, then detached from the yard, and sent down on deck 
(slung amidships) by the long tackle* hooked at the topmast-head, 
and steadied forward clear of the top-rim by the weather or lee 
boAvline, according to the side on which the sail is to be sent 
down. (See 298). 

Should the ship be rolling or pitching to any extent, and it is 
not deemed prudent to lower the furled sail " before all, " the sail 
may be sent down through lubber's hole. This method will de- 
pend entirely upon the motion of the ship. 



311.— SECURING IN A GALE. 

See that the yards which have sails set upon them are not un- 
necessarily sharp up ; that the yards whose sails are furled are 
hoisted clear of the caps ; that the runners and tackles are up in 
good time ; that all unnecessary strain is taken off the rigging ; 
and that mats are carefully placed wherever a chafe is likely to 
occur, such as at the bunts of the furled sails, and at the lee 
quarters of the yards, which are braced up against the rigging. 

See also that the fore and main sheets, if set, be checked a 



Generally called the top-burton. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 175 

little ; the weather lifts and trusses well up and taut ; jiggers on 
topsail lifts, and studding-sails out of the rigging ; anchors and 
guns properly secured ; and in a small vessel, the hatches bat- 
tened down, extra on boats, spare spars, &c, &c. 



312.— PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT SEA. 

Endeavor to get sea room ; if you have it, run before the wind. 
The captain and first officer to cunn the ship ; two or three of 
the best men to steer ; the master to keep the time, and the 
courses steered, and have the ship's place kept worked up. 

Previous to its coming on, have a life-line set up on each side 
of the deck. Furl all sails, and secure them with studding-sail 
tacks as well as long gaskets ; batten down the hatches, and 
have the relieving tackles on the tiller ; down topgallant-yards, 
and send topgallant-masts on deck, and flying jib-boom in. 
Clear the tops ; gafTs down ; rudder-chocks and spare tiller at 
hand ; axes and hawsers at hand ; scuppers clear ; pumps ready. 
Let each man wear a belt to secure himself if required to the 
most convenient place ; keep the after yards square ; head yards 
thrown forward, and have the fore-staysail set with double 
sheets. 



313.— PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT AN 
ANCHOR, (with notes on the Barometer.) 

The ship should be moored with a whole cable each way if in 
harbor, or if in an open roadstead, veer to a hundred fathoms on 
each anchor. 

The more your berth is out of the way of other ships, the bet- 
ter, as vessels driving, or getting adrift, occasion much damage to 
those who might otherwise have held on. 

If moored, the sheet cable to be bent and ranged, and the an- 
chor let go, and veer on the bowers to the clinches. 

All the ground tackle you have should be used. Have a shackle 
abaft the foremost stopper, on each cable, ready for slipping if ab- 
solutely necessary, to prevent swamping, or from other causes. 

Batter down fore and aft. 

Down topgallant yards and masts. 

If time, unbend sails (topsails and courses, I mean). 

Strike lower-yards and topmasts. 

Get yards as much fore and aft as possible. 



176 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR . 



Jib-boom eased in. 

Keep try-sails and fore stay-sail bent, and the former reefed. 
Unreeve the running rigging, that nothing may be aloft to hold 
the wind. 

Clear the tops. 

No boats to be above the gunwale. 

Axes and hawsers up ready. 



If anchors drag, cut away lower masts- 
first cut and cleared. Remember the stays. 



-the rigging being 



Notes and remarks on the Barometer. 







As the force of the wind is what is requir- 
ed for service at sea, the following would be 


SCALE 


OF BAROMETER AT PRESENT. 






better understood. 


Inches. 




Inches. 




31.0 


Very dry. 






30.5 


Set fair. 


30.5 


Very settled. 


30.0 


Fair. 


30.0 


Fine weather. 






29.7 


Unsettled. 


29.5 


Changeable. 


29.5 


Gale. 






29.2 


Storm. 


29.0 


Rain. 


29.0 


Violent storm. 


28.5 


Much rain. 


28.5 


Tempest. 


28.0 


Stormy. 







When the mercury falls in the Barometer, it announces rain, or wind, 
or in general what is called bad weather j and, on the contrary, when il 
rises, it announces fair weather. 

When the mercury falls in frosty weather, either snow, or a thaw may 
be expected ; but if it rises in the winter with a north or east wind, it gen- 
erally forebodes a frost. 

If the mercury sinks slowly, we may expect rain, which will probably be 
of some continuance ; but if it rises gradually, we may expect fine weather 
that will be lasting. 

When the Barometer is fluctuating, rising and falling suddenly, the 
weather may be expected to be like it — changeable. 

When the mercury falls very low, there will be much rain ; but if its 
fall is low and sudden, a high wind frequently follows. 

When an extraordinary fall of the mercury happens, without any re- 
markable change near at hand, there is some probability of a storm at a 
distance. 

In very warm weather the fall of the mercury indicates thunder. 

The Barometer will descend sometimes as an indication of wind only, 
and sometimes rise when the wind is to the north or east. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. \f7 

A north-east wind generally causes the Barometer to rise, and it is gen- 
erally low with a south-west wind. 

An extraordinary fall of the mercury will sometimes take place in sum- 
mer previous to heavy showers, attended with thunder ; but in spring, au- 
tumn, and winter, it indicates violent winds. 

The mercury is higher in cold than in warm weather, and lower at noon 
and midnight than at any other period of the day. 

The mercury generally falls at the approach of new and full moon, and 
rises at the quadratures. 

Before high tides, there is almost always a great fall of the mercury; 
this takes place oftener at the full than at the new moon. 

The greatest changes of the Barometer commonly take place during 
clear weather with a north wind, and the smallest risings during cloudy, 
rainy, or windy weather, with a south or nearly south wind. 

The words generally engraved on the plate of the Barometer, rather 
serve to mislead, than to inform ; for the changes of weather depend rather 
on the rising and falling of the mercury, than on its standing at any par- 
ticular height. 

When the mercury is as high as " fair," and the surface of it is concave, 
(which is the case when it begins to descend,) it very often rains ; and on 
the contrary, when the mercury is opposite "rain," and the surface of it is 
convex, (which is the case when it begins to ascend,) fair weather may be 
expected. These circumstances not being duly attended to, is the princi- 
pal cause that many people have not a proper confidence in this instru- 
ment. 

For sea-service, it would be as well to read the Barometer off three 
times a day at least — at 8 a. m., noon, and 8 f. m. — and oftener if bad 
weather. 

In Europe, if the alteration in the quicksilver should be in as great a 
proportion as six-tenths of an inch to twenty -four hours, sudden but not 
lasting changes of weather may be expected. 

If the alteration should be gradual, probably in the proportion of two or 
three-tenths to twenty-four hours, the weather indicated will be likely to 
last. 

One-fifth of the variation of the Barometer, in any climate, in twenty- 
four hours, may be considered as an indication of sudden change. 

If wind should follow rain, the wind may be expected to increase. 

Ram following wind is likely to lull it, and the wind may be expected 
to abate. 



12 



178 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR. 



314.— THE FOREMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. 

Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist the main- 
staysail, take in after sail, and endeavor to get before the wind ; 
if successful, keep her so, by veering a range of cable over the 
stern, and lashing it amidships ; if not, which is most likely to 
be the case, and should carry away the main-topmast also, lay 
her to under the main-staysail. If the main-topmast should 
stand, clew-up the main-topsail immediately, get the breast back- 
stays over the topsail-yard, and set them up as far forward as 
possible, by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the wreck, clear 
it away, especially the lanyards of the lee-rigging, so as to pre- 
serve the channels and chain-bolts, and endeavor to haul it 
aboard. Send down the after yards and spars, and save as much 
of the wreck as possible. Rig a jury-foremast, fitting spars and 
sails to the best advantage ; when the jury-mast is rigged, reeve 
a main-topmast stay, of a hawser, and take the breast-backstays 
aft again, after which cut clear of the wreck, if not required. 



315.— TO RIG A JURY-MAST. ' 

Take a spare spar, the largest on board, a main-topmast for 
instance, and launch the head over the night-heads, the heel 
resting against the stump of the old mast ; put on the cross-trees 
and bolsters, fit the rigging and stays from hawsers, and hook a 
couple of tackles from the jury-mast head — which take to the 
sides and haul taut ; hook another, which take well aft ; lash the 
heel of the stump to prevent slipping, and raise the mast with 
the after purchase, tending the stays and pendant-tackles ; when 
up, reeve the lanyards, set up the rigging and stays. Cleet and 
lash the heel securely. Ship the cap, send up a topgallant-mast 
for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yard, and a topgal- 
lant yard for a topsail yard, and so on. 



316.— ACCIDENTS TO TILLER. 

In the event of losing a mast. 

Should the tiller break in the rudder head, the rudder must 
immediately be chocked, that its stump may be taken out and 
the spare tiller fitted, which, together with the chock, should al- 
ways be placed in readiness for immediate use. While the rud- 
der is useless, the ship must be hove-to till it is repaired, or some 
contrivance prepared to supply its place. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 179 

317— THE MAIN-MAST IS CARRIED AWAY. 

Hard-up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it still stands, 
clear the wreck, save as much as possible, and rig a jury main- 
mast, as above. 



318.— THE BOWSPRIT IS CARRIED AWAY. 

Hard-up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, 
and get the ship before the wind ; take the fore-topmast breast- 
backstays forward over the top-sail yard, hook the pendant tack- 
les and set them up to the cat-heads ; unreeve the main-topmast 
and spring-stays, and set them up to the foretopsail sheet bitts; 
hitch a hawser to the foretopmast head, take this in through one 
of the hawse-holey, and set it up on the gun-deck. While this is 
performing, let some hands be reducing sail, sending down top- 
gallant yards and masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck; 
rig a jury-bowsprit of a spare main-topmast or a jib-boom. 



319.— A TOPMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. 

Get the ship before the wind immediately, and reduce sail ; 
hook the top-blocks and reeve hawsers through them ; bend the 
lee one to the topsail-yard, which is probably hanging to leeward 
of the topmast, with the wreck. Clew up the topsail if practica- 
ble, and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now hangs 
clear of the topmast ; bend the weather hawser to the wreck of 
the topmast ; have guys from the weather side of the deck — clear 
away the lanyards of the rigging and stays, also the rigging lead- 
ing to the topmast head, and send it down on deck ; hook the 
yard-tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the lower yards 
forward, and send down the stump ; get the topsail-yard down in 
the lee-gangway, and repair its damages while the spare topmast 
is got aloft and secured by the old rigging ; send aloft the yard, 
set the topsails, and bring her to her course again. 



320.— THE JIB-BOOM IS CARRIED AWAY. 

Mind the weather helm, hoist the foretopmast-staysail, and 
get in the wreck by the fore pendant-tackles, hooked to the fore- 
stay ; reeve a heel-rope and get in the stump ; point another boom, 
and rig it with the old rigging, if sound, if not, with spare ropes 
or hawsers. 



180 THE KEDGE-AJNCHOR; 

321.— THE FOREMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE 
HOUNDS OR BIBBS. 

Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce sail, and get 
all the strain off the foremast ; secure the main-topmast. 

Send down topgallant yards and masts; hook the jeers, 
and settle the fore yard ; hook top-blocks, reeve top-pendants 
and house topmasts, allowing the heel to come considerably 
below the defect ; fish the foremast with side fishes, and the heel 
of the topmast, wedging the lashings. Clap a lashing around 
the doublings of the mast-head, having chocks between ; keep the 
pendant-tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up ; 
wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore yard close up 
to the heel of the topmast ; reef the head sails to diminish the 
strain if required. 



322.— THE FOREMAST AND BOWSPRIT CARRIED 

AWAY. 

Proceed as in 314, the remarks being applied to the present 
case ; lay-to under the main-staysail, to leeward of the wreck, and 
repair damages on board, in the best possible manner ; rig a jury 
foremast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved as many 
spars and sails, and as much rigging as possible ; if the ship lays 
easily by the wreck, it would probably be well to ride by it, until 
the gale abates. If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be 
done as before mentioned, with the assistance of the mainsail, 
making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the hawser as 
a spring to the quarter. 



323.— THE BOWSPRIT IS SPRUNG. 

Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the 
ship before the wind ; haul down the head sails, come up the main 
topmast stays, and set them up on deck ; get the fore-topmast 
breast-backstays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set 
them up to the cat-head ; come up all the head stays, and rig in 
the head booms ; send down upper yards and masts, take the fore- 
topmast stays through the hawse-hole, and set them up. 

Note. — All strain now being off the bowsprit, fish ic with the 
regular fishes ; if there are none on board, use the jib-boom ; if 
thought sufficiently strong to bear the strain of the head stays, 
get them in their proper places, but if not, get stays out merely 
to make sail. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Igl 



324.— A TOPMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE LOWER CAP 

Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail ; if a spare topmast 
is not to be had, the old one may be housed far enough to allow 
the spring to come some feet below the cap, setting the lowei 
yard as in the last case ; fit a larger chock between the topmast 
and lowermast head, and clap stout lashings around, above, and 
below the defect part, wedging them well ; reef the foresail so that 
it can be set with the yard in its present place, and also the top- 
sail, to lessen the strain on the weak spar. 

Note. — Sheep-shank the rigging, if required, before setting up. 



325.— TO SEND ALOFT A TOPMAST, AND A HEAVY 

SEA ON. 

After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the burtons to 
stout strops, at the rim of the top on each side ; hitch hawsers to 
the mast-head, leading one through a larger block at the fore- 
topmast head, and another aft through one at the mizen ; haul 
the burtons and hawsers taut ; sway aloft the topmast, slacking 
up as it goes aloft ; when Added, steady the topmast until the 
rigging and stays are set up. 



326.— THE GAMMONING CARRIED AWAY. 

Proceed as in 323, until all strain is off the bowsprit ; put a 
stout chock on the bowsprit, and pass the end of the messenger 
out of a hawse-hole, over the chock, in through the other hawse- 
hole, and bitt it ; take the other end to the capstan, and get the 
bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger and bob-stays ; 
come up the old gammoning, and pass a new one. 

Note. — Iron gammonings are used for all vessels, by new regu- 
lation. {See Rigging Table.) 



327.— A LOWER CAP SPLITS. 

Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing around the 
topmast and lower mast-head, which wedge ; after which woold 
and wedge the cap. 



182 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



328.— THE TRESTLE-TREES ARE SPRUNG. 

Get the ship before the.wind, take all sail off the mast, send 
down topgallant yards and masts, housing the others ; hook the 
top-blocks, reeve top-pendants, hook top-tackles, and bouse them 
well taut, taking all strain off the fid ; pass several stout lash- 
ings around the heel of the topmast and lower mast-head, 
cleating them to prevent their slipping ; make sail as the mast 
will bear. 



329.— A LOWER YARD IS CARRIED AWAY IN THE 

SLINGS. 

If the fore-yard, get the ship before the wind, haul up the 
foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all sail on the mizen-mast, 
unreeve the foretopsail sheets and board them on deck ; bring her 
on your course again, and haul the bowlines. 

If a main-yard, keep on the course, haul up the mainsail, clew 
up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, board them on deck, and haul 
the bowlines well out ; having proceeded thus far, get stout strops 
around the inner quarter of the yard, and hook the pendant- 
tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops ; if the pendant- 
tackles are not at hand, use the burtons. 

Lash the jear-blocks, reeve the jears, and send the yard down 
by the jears, lifts, and pendant-tackles ; fish the lower yards im- 
mediately, if it can be done ; if it cannot, rig a topsail yard for a 
lower yard. 



330.— A TOPSAIL YARD IS CARRIED AWAY. 

If it is the fore, reduce after sail ; mind the weather helm, and 
keep the ship on her course. If it is the main, stand on, clew up 
the sail, unbend it, and get it into the top the best manner possi- 
ble. Get a strop around the topmast-head, above the eyes of the 
rigging, to which hook a large single block, and reeve a hawser 
through it. If the yard is completely broken off, bend the haw- 
ser which is not secured by the parrel, bend on guys, and send it 
down ; then send down the other piece. If it still remains together, 
bend on the slings, stop out to leeward, have a tripping line and 
rolling ropes, and get it fore and aft on deck ; take off all the old 
rigging, which put on to the spare yard in the chains ; then bend 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



183 



on the hawser, sway aloft, and cross it as in fitting the ship out, 
have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft ; bend the topsail, 
and set it. 



331.— THE SHIP LEAKS FASTER THAN THE PUMPS 
CAN FREE HER. 

Find out where the leak is ; thrum an old sail very thickly, 
and have stout ropes attached to each leech ; make it up, take it 
under the bowsprit, and get the ropes on their respective sides ; 
heave the ship too ; when her headway eases, drop the sail over- 
board ; after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, haul 
aft on the ropes attached to each clew ; when the body of the 
sail is over the leak, haul well taut all the ropes attached to the 
leeches and the head, which will prevent the sail from going aft 
when going ahead ; make sail, and continue pumping. 



332.— THE PUMPS ARE CHOKED 
Hoist them out, and clear them. 



333.— A SHOT GETS LOOSE IN A GUN SECURED FOR 

A GALE. 




Prick the cartridge well down, and pour vinegar enough in the 
touch-hole to drown it. 



184 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 



334.— TO THROW A LOWER DECK GUN OVERBOARD. 

Fit a chock in the port-sill, and over the pomelion of the gun, 
to which, from the housing-bolt, hook a stout tackle ; unlash the 
muzzle, heave up the breech, and put in the bed and coin ; un- 
reeve the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and place cap- 
stan bars under the breech to ease it, and prevent the gun from 
slipping back into the carriage again ; man the side and port 
tackles, watch the roll, trice up the port briskly, run out, and throw 
the gun clear of the carriage, by the breech-tackles and capstan- 
bars ; shut in the port immediately. 




PART VI. 



335.— TO TURN REEFS OUT OF THE TOPSAILS 
AND COURSES. 

Haul taut the reef-pendants, and set taut the lower lifts ; 
ease off the bowlines ; ease a little of the tacks and sheets of 
the courses, and settle a few feet of the topsail halliards ; haul 
taut the reef tackles and buntlines, round in a little of the weath- 
er braces, to clear the points of the lee-rigging ; commence cast- 
ing off the points of the bunt, taking care to leave none tied, and 
turning one reef out at a time ; ease away both earings together ; 
overhaul the rigging, get the tacks on board ; sheet home, hoist 
the topsails up to a taut leech, out bowlines and make sail. 



336.— THE RUDDER IS CARRIED AWAY— TO FIT 
ANOTHER. 

Man the braces immediatly ; take in after sails, and let the 
ship run a little free ; rouse up a cable, clove-hitch a hawser over 
the cable, and then pay it overboard ; veer away about twenty 
fathoms, and lash it amidships on the taffrail ; lead the ends of 
the hawsers through large blocks, lashed to the quarters, and 
clap tackles on them ; steer the ship by this contrivance, until 
a rudder can be constructed. (See Plate.) 

Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rudder, enlarge 
the fid-hole to receive the tiller, if not already large enough ; 
take a spare cap and cut away the after part, so as to fit the 
stern post at the waters' edge, or a little below ; pass the topmast 
through the round hole in the cap ; take a spare jib-boom and cut 



186 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

it in two ; the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the topmast, after 
squaring the edges which will come in contact with each other, 
and cutting a score in the forward part of the jib-boom, next to 
the topmast, to allow the cap to have room to play in ; plank the 
whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish abaft all ; 
drive an eye-bolt into the heel of the topmast (now the head of 
the rudder), and have kentledge attached to the other end to sink 
t ; take an anchor-stock and square two of the edges ; cut away 
a circular score in each, for them to join together around the top 
mast, below the squares, and thus serve as an upper gudgeon ; 
drive the anchor-stock hoops on the rudder-head, to prevent split- 
ting. 

Place the rudder on a stage, near the tafTrail ; pass a couple 
of hawsers aft through the hawse-holes, and secure them to the 
heel of the rudder ; have tackles on their inner ends ; have two 
more hawsers or parts of hawsers passed from forward aft, under 
everything, one each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye-bolts 
in the cap ; have a pendant round as described in another place ; 
launch overboard and rouse up on the head rope ; heave in upon 
the hawsers, and bring the rudder to the stern post, perpendic- 
ularly ; secure the cap to the stern post and the anchor-stock, 
around the rudder head ; ship the tiller, reeve the wheel-ropes, 
and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may remain to keep the 
rudder perpendicular, or may be taken off, as the -case may re- 
quire. 

Note. — See improved sketch or plan of temporary rudder. 



337.— A SHIP ON FIRE AT SEA. 

Hard up the helm, haul up the courses, up spanker, get the 
ship before the wind, and reduce sail to topsails ; beat to quarters, 
close all the ports, muster the men at their stations, call away the 
firemen, under charge of their proper officers ; let a part fill the 
engine and wet the sails, while the other part finds out where 
the fire is, and endeavor to extinguish it if possible— for which 
purpose use bedding ; putting over the gratings and tarpaulins. 
The gunner and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to 
drown the powder at a moment's notice ; let the carpenters rig 
and fetch the pumps, and the spar-deck divison clear away the 
boats, equip them, and get them ready for hoisting out ; in the 
above case, the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put 
up, because wind is less felt ; the ports are shut in, and the tar- 
paulins put on, as they would afford air to the fire ; and the cour- 
ses hauled up, because they strike a current of air down the 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Ig7 

hatchways, and are also liable to catch. If the fire is on deck, 
and forward, keep before the wind ; if aft, haul close on a wind. 



338.— A SHIP ON HER BEAM ENDS. 

When the severity of the squall is felt, hard up the helm and 
let fly everything; but if she goes on her beam ends before she 
can be got off sufficiently to diminish the effects of the wind, the 
best way will be to cut away the mizen-mast before the headway 
ceases, which falling over the lee quarter, will act as a drag, to 
pay her off; should she not right when before the wind, if there 
be an anchorage, and the cable is bent, get the drag to the lee- 
bow, by means of a spring, and rouse in ; the wind acting on 
the flat deck, and under side of the sails, will probably right her. 
As a last resort, cut away the masts — great decision and rapidity 
of execution is necessary, as the ship must go down a short time 
after she goes over. 



339.— WIND FREE, ALL SAIL SET, STRUCK BY A 

SQUALL. 

Up helm, let fly the main-sheets, spanker-outhaul, staysail-sheets 
and halliards, royal and topgallant studding-sail-halliards, royal 
and topgallant-sheets, and halliards ; haul up the mainsail, brail 
up the spanker, down staysails, and order the topmen to haul in the 
studding-sails and stow them. When before the wind, right the 
helm, clew down the topsails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef- 
tackles, and reef if necessary ; clear up the decks as fast as pos- 
sible. 

Note. — In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should be eased off, 
for if they should get foul when running through their blocks fast, 
spars might be endangered ; but when struck by a severe squall, 
the effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as possible, to 
save the masts, and prevent her from going over. 



3 40.— STRUCK BY A SQUALL ON A LEE SHORE. 

If sail cannot be reduced, luff-too and shake her ; fill away 
again, gather headway, and luff again. 



188 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

341.— STRUCK BY A SQUALL UNDER WHOLE TOP- 
SAILS AND COURSERS. 

Up helm, let fly the topsail halliards, main-sheet, spanker out- 
haul, and lee-topsail sheets ; haul up the mainsail, brail up the 
spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to windward ; right 
the helm, and reef if necessary. 



342.— ON A WIND, UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS— PART 
THE WEATHER MAIN-TOPSAIL BRACE. 

Haul up the mainsail, let go the lee main-brace, haul forward 
on the lee-maintop-bowline, and aft on the weather main-brace ; 
luff- too, and when the main- topsail shivers, clew it down, haul 
up the buntlines, out reef tackles, and steady the yard by the bow- 
line, until a new brace can be rove ; a burton might be hooked 
to steady the yard. 



343.— THE JIB-DOWNHAUL PARTS. 

Untoggle the fore-topgallant-bowlines, and knot them together, 
above the first hank, between the stay and jib-halliards, which 
use for a downhaul, until you reeve a new one. 



344.— TO CHASE. 

A vessel that chases another should have the advantage in 
point of sailing, because if the ship chased is as good a sailer as 
the chaser, the latter can never come up to her, if she manosu- 
vred equally as well. 

In order to determine whether your ship sails faster than your 
adversary, get upon the same tack, under the same sail, and keep 
upon the same course with her ; set her exactly with a compass, 
and if your ship sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more 
aft; if she has the advantage she will in a short time draw more 
forward, and if both sail equally well, she will remain at the same 
point. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS'" ASSISTANT. 

345.— TO CHASE TO WINDWARD. 



189 




To chase to windward, run upon the same course with the 
enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly to the same course ; 
when tack and continue the second board, until he is again 
brought perpendicularly to the same course ; always continue 
this manoeuvre by tacking every time the chase is a-beam, on 
either board, and she will come in the shortest method by your 
superiority of sailing. Should the chase pass the point, when the 
chase bears a-beam, he must go about with all dispatch. 

Note. — The chase goes about as soon as the chase is exactly 
a-beam, because at that time, the distance between them is the 
least possible upon the different boards they hold. 



346.— OBSERVATIONS FOR A SHIP TO WINDWARD, 
WHICH IS CHASED. 



The weather ship will always be joined, since 
it is granted that she does not sail as well as the 
pursuer, it will be then to her advantage to keep 
constantly on the same tack, without losing time 
to heave about, for tacking cannot be so favora- 
ble to her as to her adversary, whose sailing is 
superior. 




190 

If the chaser, mistakingly stands on and tacks in the wake of 
the chase, the best course for the latter to pursue is to heave about 
and pass to windward of him on the other tack, unless you sup- 
pose your vessel would have a superiority in going large ; for if 
the chaser persists in tacking in the wake of the other ship, the 
chase will be much prolonged. 



347.— TO CHASE TO LEEWARD. 

If the chaser keeps 
away to cut the chase 
off, and keeps contin- 
ually on that course, 
they will eventually 
come together where 
the two courses inter- 
sect. This will be 
exactly executed by 
the ship in chase, if 
in the course she has 
taken, "she keeps the 
chase continually up- 
on the same degree of the compass as at the beginning of the pur- 
suit. This principle applies equally to all the courses which 
the retreating ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accom- 
plished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase takes another 
course than that which keeps the two ships upon the same 
point. These are the only considerations to be made, and they 
may be corrected, by observing the bearings' *by an azimuth com- 
pass. 




348.— TO WINDWARD OF AN ENEMY, WITHIN PISTOL 
SHOT. — The weather main rigging is shot away — both ships with 
main-topsails to the mast. 

Up helm, fill away, and run the enemy on board, before she 
gets headway to prevent it. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 191 

349.— WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET- 
BRING BY UNDER DOUBLE-REEFED TOPSAILS. 

Reduce sail regularly, and clew down the topsails ; luff enough 
to reef, hoist the topsails, and haul close on a wind. 



350.— WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET— 
BRING-TO ON THE OTHER TACK, UNDER DOUBLE 
REEFED TOPSAILS. 

Reduce sail to topsails, station the 
crew forward, with one watch of top- 
men aloft to reef; brail up the spanker, 
up helm, brace in, and when before 
the wind, clew down the topsails, haul 
out reef-tackles, and up buntlines ; let 
the men lay out and reef; wind on the 
quarter, brace up cross-jack yard, and 
haul out the spanker ; as she comes-too, 

brace up the fore yard, and meet her with the helm and jib-sheet; 

when coming-too, a good opportunity will be offered for reefing ; 

when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting the main go a-back, 

the others fill. 

Note. — Having a dismasted ship in tow, heave-to, make fast the 
stream cable to the mainmast of the ship, and take it in at the 
weather gangway, clinching it around the mainmast ; then make 
fast a stout hawser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed 
amidships on the taffrail, so that the ship may either ride on the 
weather quarter, or be roused astern. In case of veering, rouse in 
upon the spring, and the manoeuvre will be performed with more 
certainty. After it is executed, the tow-rope must be shifted to 
the opposite gangway, by means of a spring, &c. 



351.— HOW TO GET THE ANCHORS OFF THE BOWS. 

Hook the fore pendant-tackle ; single the shank-painters, and 
set them taut with the pendant-tackles ; come up the shank-lash- 
ings, put the shoes between the bills and bows, by capstan-bars, 
and then by the shank-painters as far as necessary. 

Single and set taut cat-head stoppers, and then unlash the 
rings. 



192 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



352.— TO ANCHOR HEAD TO WIND— WIND FREE. 

See that the officers and men are at their stations, and the 
strictest silence preserved, as the ship nears her berth ; take in 
all the studding sails, get the burtons off the yards, and the jiggers 
off the topgallant yards ; send the booms and sails down from 
aloft ; man the fore clew-garnets, buntlines and leechlines ; the 
mainsail is hauled up as the ship is going free ; topgallant and 
royal clewlines ; lay aloft and stand by to furl the sails snug, and 
square the yards by the lifts and braces ; have hands by the fore 
tack and sheet, topgallant and royal sheets, halliards, weather 
braces, and bowlines ; up foresail, in topgallant-sails and royals ; 
furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces, 
hauling taut the halliards. Man the topsail-clewlines and bunt- 
lines, weather braces, jib-downhaul, and spanker-outhaul ; attend 
the sheets, halliards, and spanker-brails, ease down the helm, 
haul down the jib, haul out the spanker, and when the topsail 
lifts, clear away the sheets, and clew them up ; then let go the 
halliards, clew down, and square away the yards immediately ; 
haul aft the spanker-sheet, and when the headway ceases, stream 
the buoy, stand clear of the cable ; when she begins to go astern, 
let go the anchor, brail up the spanker, crotch the boom, haul 
taut the guys, light-to the cable, as fast as she will take it, until 
a sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, liaul taut and 
stop in the rigging, send the boats' crews aft, to lower the boats 
down. Let the boatswain go ahead to square the yards — clear up 
the decks. 

Note. — If in going to moor, veer out double the mooring scope, 
and then let go the anchor ; then furl sails and heave in. 



353.— TO ANCHOR ON A LEE SHORE. 

The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to veer, recourse 
must be had to letting go all the anchors. For this purpose all 
the cables are bent and ranged, and all the anchors got ready for 
letting go ; the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts. and 
the weather boAver to the after bitts, to windward ; the lee bower 
to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to the after ones to leeward ; 
no buoy rope is bent except to the weather sheet ; the weather 
sheet is backed by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges ; 
see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm-staysails, and furl 
all the square sails ; hook the yard tackles ; get the lower yards 
forward, and house topmast ; when all is ready, keep her a little 
off, to get headway. Let go the weather sheet and stream an 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 193 

chors and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge ; down 
helm ; haul down fore and main storm stay-sails, and the drift 
to leeward will carry her to the berth of the last anchor, which 
let go ; haul down the mizen storm stay-sail, and veer away 
an equal scope on all four cables ; observe that they will bear 
an equal strain, and veer to a long scope, reserving sufficient to 
freshen the nip with ;* see that the cables are well rounded, 
and watch them carefully. If she should drag, sling the guns 
with the stoutest spare rigging on board, having a round turn 
around all these cables, and heave them over : if she should still 
drag, cut away the masts, and if there be no possibility of pre- 
venting her from going on shore, take a stout spring to one of 
the quarters, slip the cables, let her veer round and go on shore 
end on.f 

Note — In weighing these anchors, bring-to first on the cable 
which has got the least scope out, taking in the slack of the 
others with deck-tackles. 



354.— SCUDDING UNDER A FORESAIL— TO COME 
TO AN ANCHOR. 

Get both bowers ready for letting go ; haul up the foresail, 
making a due allowance for headway, and run in under bare 
poles; when near the berth, down helm, out with the span- 
ker, and haul aft mizen storm stay-sail sheet ; when by the wind, 
let go the weather anchor and veer away briskly ; when head to 
wind, let go the lee anchor, and haul down the staysail ; veer-to, 
and bring equal strain on both cables. If necessary, let go more 
anchors. 



355.— TO MAKE A FLYING MOOR. 

Make all necessary preparations for coming-to ; overhaul and 
bitt a double range of the weather cable, and bitt the lee one at 
the range to which she is to be moored. When approaching the 
anchorage, reduce sail to topsails, jib and spanker, if moderate, 
but if fresh, to jib and spanker only ; when near the berth of the 
first anchor, lufF-to, stream the buoy, and when the headway has 



* If they are hemp cables ; if chain, it is unnecessary, 
t See wrecked in a gale. 
13 



194 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

nearly ceased, let go the weather anchor, up helm, stand on and 
veer away roundly, to prevent the range from checking her : 
when the full range is nearly out, hard down the helm, down jib, 
clew up the topsails, out spanker, and let her lay the range out 
taut ; when taut, let go the lee anchor, furl sails, bring-to on the 
weather-cable, reeving away on the lee one, and heave into the 
moorings. Moor taut, to allow for veering ; clap on service, and 
veer it ; if hemp cable, square the yards, stop in the rigging, and 
clear up the decks. 



356.— TO MOOR WITH A LONG SCOPE OF CHAIN. 

Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer away near- 
ly the whole of the two cables ; then let go the other anchor, 
bring-to on the first cable, heave in, veering away on the other ; 
when into the mooring mark or shackle, stopper and bitt, un- 
shackle the chains, and secure all ; clear up the decks, and pay 
the chain below. (See Unmooring and Mooring.) 



357.— BLOWING FRESH— IN PORT. 

Range the cables, see the anchor clear, and an anchor watch 
set ; have leads-men in the chains — send down the upper yards, 
if not already down; house top-gallant masts, and point the 
yards to the wind. 



358.— SEND DOWN LOWER YARDS. 

Send aloft the jeer-blocks, lash them, and reeve the jeers ; see 
the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove, and lifts clear for 
unreeving ; hook the yard-tackles and take them forward, heave 
taut the jeers, unreeve the lanyard of the slings, attend the 
braces and yard-tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts. 
When down make all fast. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. £95 



359.— TO HOUSE TOPMASTS. 

Hook top-blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the rigging clear 
that leads to the topmast heads, man the top tackle-falls, slack 
the lanyards of the rigging, stays and backstays ; sway up, out 
fid, lower away, and haul down on the rigging; when low 
enough, pass heel-lashings around the lower masts, having can- 
vass in the wake ; set taut the rigging and stays. Sheep-shank 
the backstays, haul taut the running-rigging, and make all snug. 

Note. — The topmasts may be housed with the lower yards 
aloft, by taking the yard-tackles forward and bousing upon them, 
slacking the braces and trusses at the same time (if not patent 
trasses). The patent truss has been so improved that the mast 
can be housed by unclamping one side and bracing sharp up. 



360.— TO BACK A BOWER BY A STREAM. 

Bend a stream-cable to the flukes of the bower-anchor, observ- 
ing to let go the stream first ; and when the cable is taut, let go 
the bower. If the bower is already down and dragging, form a 
clinch with the stream, around the cable, and let her drag until 
she brings the stream ahead. 



361.— TO SWEEP FOR AN ANCHOR. 

Make use of long stout running-rigging ; middle it, and attach 
some sinker to the middle, also along the bight, to confine it to 
the bottom. Coil it away in two boats, and pull to windward 
of where the anchor is supposed to lie ; then pull in an opposite 
direction, veering away on the bight from both boats ; now pull 
in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight catches, cross 
the boats, and get a round turn with the rope ; make a running 
bowline on the end of a hawser around the rope, and slip it 
down ; when fast, weigh with the launch. 

Note. — A section of small sized chain, with a rope bent to each 
end, is the best means that can be used to sweep for an anchor. 
Cross and bring both parts together, after which put on a shackle 
on both parts, and let it run down to the anchor ; then heave up 
on both parts. 



196 THE KL.JGE-A3NCH0R 



362.— PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HARBOR. 

Inspect the tiller-ropes, shift hard over the helm, once or twice 
each way, in order to see that the tiller is not obstructed in its 
sweep in the gun-room. Place lead-lines in both channels. 
Point the ends of the hawsers up the hatchways, ready for pay- 
ing out in any direction. Range both bower cables ; see stoppers 
placed in readiness (bitt and ring). Examine cat-head stop- 
pers, and shank-painters of both bower-anchors. 

Should the shank-painters be fitted slip-shackle fashion, care 
should be taken to place men by them who are acquainted with 
the method of disengaging the anchors, &c. 



363.— WEIGHING ANCHOR IN A HEAD-SEA. 

In weighing anchor with a head-sea, precaution should be 
taken to have previously prepared a good deck- tackle or other 
purchase, which affix to the messenger (if required), to assist the 
action of the capstan. There should also be had in readiness an 
ample quantity of nippers. (See Passing Nippers.) 



364.— CASTING, OR CUTTING THE CABLE. 

When at single anchor in a roadstead, and if it be apprehended 
that from the direction of the wind, and the local position of the 
ship with the shore, it may be necessary to have recourse to cut- 
ting the cable, and that casting the wrong way would endanger 
the safety of the vessel, timely precaution should be taken to 
ensure the ships casting in the right direction. 

To effect this purpose, the stream cable should be bent to that 
of the riding bower, brought through the after part, and taken 
round the capstan, in readiness to act as a spring, to cant the 
ship previously to cutting. Axes should be placed abaft in the 
vicinity of the stream cable, for the purpose of cutting it, after 
the bower has been severed, and the ship's head cast the desired 
way. 

Note.— A slip or buoy-rope should be brought over { ' head," so 
that when the cable is cut, a buoy may be left in the roadstead 
to denote the position of the anchor. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 197 



365.— CLINCHING CABLES. 

Whatever be the number of hemp cables which are bent to the 
anchors, the officer in charge is particularly cautioned to clap on a 
clinch rounding, towards the inner extremity of each cable, keep- 
ing three sheaves in the tier ; upon receiving the cables on board, 
and clinching their respective ends, the officer may proceed as 
given in the note below. 

Chain-cables should never be clinched in a manner which .will 
not admit of their ends being immediately disengaged, in the 
event of it becoming necessary to slip, or extricate the ship from 
her anchors ; it may be said, that the cable may be unshackled 
on deck, but it may so happen, that the last shackle is without 
the hawse — a circumstance which will preclude the possibility of 
having recourse to this expedient. 

Note. — Pay down three sheaves into the tier, and then clap on a 
racking lashing to the fore beam, previously worming and parceling 
in the wake of the lashing ; measure then, allowing the cable bitted, 
and clap on a rounding in the wake, where the cable would bring 
up in the hawse, and chafe in the cutwater. This method leaves 
room to freshen hawse, in the event of having to veer to the 
clinch. Few ships adopt the precaution of clapping upon their 
cables a clinch service ; when too late, the necessity of the prac- 
tice is discovered. 



366,— FITTING BUOY-KOPES. 

Buoy-ropes are always proportioned to the depth of water. 
One end is unlaid, and a buoy rope-knot made ; it is then laid up 
again, and whipped. A clove hitch is made, one half of the 
hitch being on each side of the crown. The end with the knot 
is seized on the shank, one seizing put on close to the crown, 
and one close to the end. The other is bent to the buoy. Some 
prefer the running eye. Put over one arm, and a half-hitch over 
the other arm, and seized in the cross. 



367.— JIB-HALLIAKDS WITH A WHIP. 

A piece of rope, nearly equal to the double halliards, is rove 
through the block at the mast-head, and hooked to the head of 
the jib, a hook being spliced in the end ; in the other a single 



198 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

block is spliced high enough from the deck to allow the jib being 
hauled close down. Through this block reeve a fall, and send 
both ends down through lubber's-hole ; splice a hook in one end, 
and hook into a bolt ; reeve the other through a leading-block. 
Objections have been made to whips, but if the standing part is 
put a good distance from the hauling, it is impossible that it can 
take tarns in— they can lead abaft the top if necessary. I should 
recommend their being brought down immediately forward of 
topsail halliards. 



368.— JIB SHEETS, DOUBLE. 



Two single blocks are seized into one strap, as span blocks, 
and the strap secured to the clew* of the sail, with a lashing pass- 
ed through it, and an eye formed in the strap by crossing both 
parts together, and passing a throat seizing. One end of the 
sheet is clinched or spliced into an eye-bolt in the bulwarks, the 
other end rove through the block in the sail, from out, in and 
through a fan-leader or sheave in the bulwarks. 

With pendants, a piece of rope of sufficient size and length is 
middled, crossed, and a throat seizing passed round both parts, 
having an eye in the bight large enough to take a lashing. In 
each of these pendants, splice a single block ; reeve a whip the 
same as in the double sheets. The pendants should be long 
enough to allow the weather one to hang slack on the fore-top- 
mast stay, when the sheet is aft. (See Sail Table for iron clews.) 



369.— WBECKED IN A GALE. 

When this sad fate appears inevitable, it would be well to 
make choice (if choice can be made), of what appears the best 
part of the coast, and the clearest from rocks, for beaching her. 

The manner in which the boatmen beach their boats, is by 
laying them, with the assistance of the helm, half-broadside on, 
or rather bow and quarter on, having previously given the vessel 
a heel, or list in shore. This may be done either by trimming, 
or by the sallying of the crew, before the time that the vessel 
takes the ground. Such a position will offer the best means of 
saving the crew, who may also be materially assisted by cutting 

* Iron clews being fitted to all sails, the strap would be likely to chafe. I would 
recommend snug clump sister-hooks, or shackles, fitted to the clews. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 199 

away the masts, so as to fall towards the shore, which may be 
the means of assisting those on board to reach the shore. 

In establishing a communication with the shore, if it be by a 
boat, the end of the deep sea-lead line should be taken in her, or 
if it be by some good swimmer, with a cork jacket on, the end of 
the log line will serve the same purpose ; by either of these, haw- 
sers, or other large ropes may afterwards be got on shore. 

The means of getting on shore from a wreck are by life boats, 
rafts, parts of the wreck, or life preservers. 

A canvass cot, with large holes at the bottom, to admit the 
water to pass through freely, and having cross bars of thick rope, 
should also be kept in readiness for such an occasion. 

Raw-hide rope will be the best for traveling grommets. Some 
other expedients might be mentioned, which are for the consider 
ation of officers in charge of vessels. 



3 7 o.— SETTING UP RIGGING AT SEA. 

Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds, at sea, 
the topmast shrouds should be all let go ; this practice is recom- 
mended upon the presumption that the lower rigging will not be 
cast loose, or set up on the occasion of a swell, or that the ship 
be rolling or pitching. It has been well observed, that by letting 
go two topmast shrouds at a time, an uneven strain has been 
brought upon the futtock ;* which prevents the shrouds of the 
lower rigging being equally drawn down. 

Upon all occasions of setting up the lower rigging at sea, it is 
always advisable to have ready prepared as many luffs as possi- 
ble, so that the shrouds may be set up at a time, and that there 
may be no delay in shifting the tackles from shroud to shroud. 
When the lower rigging is up, the futtock plates should be beaten 
down to the top, and the shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles, 
ready hooked to there respective lanyards. The method of em- 
ploying the Spanish windlass, for the purpose of setting up these 
shrouds, is not to be recommended. It occupies too much time, 
and often creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging 
can be set up. In staying the topmasts, the boatswain is not 
recommended to bouse too far forward the heads of the mast, and 
he should recollect that the angle formed by the main topmast 
stay, with the fore top, is considerably greater than that of the 
fore topmast with the bowsprit ; and consequently that the lever 
of the former is more powerful than that of the latter. 



* This is only applicable to vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to their 
lower rigging. 



200 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Note. — Vessels not having catharpen legs, need not come up the 
topmast rigging for the purpose of setting up lower rigging, as 
the futtock-shrouds set up to the mast. 



371.— SLACKING THE JIB-STAY, IN BAD WEATHER. 

The jib-stay is always set up as taut as a bar of iron ; conse- 
quently, when it comes to a blow, both the spray of the sea and 
the rain tend to tauten it more ; in pitching, too, it must assist 
to spring the boom, work the bowsprit, and cause unnecessary 
strain upon the rope itself. Whenever it blows so fresh that the 
jib is not likely to be set, the jib-stay should be slacked. If it be 
required subsequently to setting the sail, nothing can be easier 
than to set the stay up, while the jib is loosing. {Bear this in 
mind.) 



372.— STOPPING OUT TOPGALLANT YARD ROPES. 

The practice of permitting the topmen to stop the topgallant 
yard ropes out at their own convenience, and consequently at 
unstated periods, is at variance with that order and regularity 
which should ever characterize the duties and discipline of a ves- 
sel of war. 

In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch, following the 
movements of the senior officers, directs the boatswain or his 
mates to pipe " out yard ropes ;" if tripping-lines are tolerated, the 
yard rope and tripping-line men should lay out together: by pur- 
suing this system the yards will be kept square, and will not 
(as is of constant occurrence), be seen for an hour and a half be- 
fore sunset, topping in different directions. The same rule should 
be observed when placing on whips for hammock-girtlines, or 
clothes-lines. 



373.— PREVENTER BRACES. 

It is desirable to establish a general rule, that when the top- 
sails are treble-reefed, the preventer braces are to be placed on the 
yards, and that the relieving tackles in the gun room be placed 
at hand ready for use. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 201 



37 4.— KEEPING A CLEAR ANCHOR. 

That part of seamanship which relates to the method of tend- 
ing a ship to the tide, or in other words of keeping the cable clear 
of the anchor, may not be inaptly termed the blind branch of 
the mariner's art — the buoy floating on the surface being the 
only possible guide that the seaman possesses to point to the po- 
sition of the anchor hidden under water. 

From being little understood, and by young officers it is seldom 
put in practice, the art of keeping a clear anchor is by many con- 
sidered a difficult task ; but, were officers to give more attention 
to the matter, and to place less dependence on the master or pilot, 
they would soon attain every necessary knowledge to meet the 
most difficult tide case. 



375.— ANCHOR TURNING IN THE GROUND. 




In order to ensure the certainty of an anchor turning in the 
ground, with the tending or swinging of the ship, it is recom- 
mended (whenever it is possible), to resort to this practice : To 
shoot the ship on the same side of her anchor, at each change of 
tide ; for if the anchor should not turn in the ground, the cable 
will get foul, either about the stock or upper fluke, and trip it 
out of ground. (Remember this). 



376.— TO TEND TO A WEATHER-TIDE. 

Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single anchor, upon 
a lee-tide, with the wind in the same direction as the tide, and 
that it be required, upon the tide setting to windward, to tend 
the ship clear of the anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship 



202 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

begins to feel the turn of the weather-tide, and that the vessel 
brings the wind broad on the weather-bow, the head sails should 
be hoisted, and the lee-sheets hauled aft, in order to shoot the 
ship from her anchor, on a taut cable. The helm must be put 
"a-lee," and kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over 
to windward of her cable, and the buoy appears on the same side 
with the helm. If from light winds the buoy bears nearly 
a-beam, her head sails may be hauled down ; but if the breeze 
be strong, and it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly 
end-on with that of the cable, bringing the buoy on her quarter, 
it will be necessary to keep the fore-topmast-staysail set, in orde 
to check the vessel, should she be disposed to break her shea 
against the action of her helm, or be inclined to drop to wind- 
ward and " go over" her anchor, in a broadside or lateral direc- 
tion. 



377.— A MAN OVERBOARD, AT SEA. 

If the ship be going free, and particularly if fast through the 
water, it is recommended to bring-to with the head-yards a-back, 
for it is obvious if the main-yard be left square, the ship will be 
longer coming-to, will shoot farther, increase the distance from 
the man, and add materially to the delay of succor. 

It will however require judgment, especially if blowing fresh 
to be careful and right the helm in time, or the ship will fly-to 
too much, gain stern way, and risk the boat in lowering down. 

The best authority recommends, that if possible, the ship 
should not only be hove a-back when a man falls overboard, but 
she ought to be brought around on the other tack : of course 
sail ought to be shortened in stays, and the main-yard kept 
square. This implies the ship being on a wind, or from the 
position of having the wind not above two points abaft the beam. 

The great merit of such a method of proceeding, is, that if the 
evolution succeeds, the ship when round will drift towards the 
man, and although there may be some small risk in lowering 
the boat in stays from the ship, having at one period sternway, 
there will in fact be little time lost, if the boat be not lowered 
until the ship be well round, and the sternway at an end. There 
is more mischief done generally, by lowering the boat too soon, 
than by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing it 
coolly. It cannot be too often repeated, that almost the whole 
depends upon the self-possession of the officer of the deck. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 20^ 

37 8.— JIB AND STAYSAIL-HALLIARD. 

(Blocks at mast-head.) 

For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with the cheek- 
blocks, which are usually fitted to the fore topmast-head, for the 
purpose of reeving the above two ropes, together with the fore 
topmast staysail-halliards. In the first place, if the fore-topmast 
be sprung, or carried away in chase, and it be required to shift 
the mast with all possible speed, considerable time is taken 
up in removing and replacing cheek-blocks at the mast-head. 
(See allowance-table, Blocks.) 

Note. — In some ships the jib and fore-topmast staysail-halliards 
are rove through gins fitted for the purpose. Gins, however, 
are not supplied in all ships, but you can always fit fiddle-blocks 
under the eyes of your rigging ; your jib and staysail-halliards 
reeve in the upper sheaves, and the topsail-buntlines in the lower 
ones. Oheek-blocks answer well on the trestle-trees. 



379.-T0 KEEP THE HAWSE CLEAR WHEN MOORED. 

When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the helm the 
right way, and if necessary, make use of jib, spanker, and yards. 



380.— TO TEND TO WINDWARD— SINGLE ANCHOR. 

When the tide slacks, sheer her with the helm, run up the jib 
and fore-topmast staysail, with weather-sheets aft ; when canted 
the right way, the lee-sheets may be hauled aft, and and the 
yards filled, thus setting her abreast to a taut cable ; when the 
buoy is on the lee-quarter, brace the head-yards to the wind, and 
fill the after ones ; when the tide swings her head around so as 
to shake the sails, haul down and stow them. 



381.— TO TEND TO LEEWARD. 

As the tide slackens, sheer her to the same side of the buoy on 
which she came to windward, and fill the yards, which will set 



204 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



her end-on over the cable ; she will now by the effect of the 
wind, bring her stern over the cable, and bring the buoy on her 
weather-quarter ; put the helm " a-weather," and she will shoot 
ahead, tautening the cable, by sheering her head from the wind. 
When the wind gets a little aft the beam, hoist the jib, to prevent 
the cable from drawing her head to wind. 

Let her lay in this position until she falls off; when the head- 
sails shake, haul down and stow them. 



382.— TO BACK SHIP— (AT ANCHOK). 

As the tide slacks, sheer her to windward, sheet-home and set 
the mizen-topsail ; thus she will back round to leeward as soon 
as the tide sets up ; clew up and furl the mizen-topsail. 



383.— TO BREAK THE SHEAR7 

When tending to the tide, and the ship comes over her anchor, 
she may break her shear by canting her stern the wrong way; 
when this is the case put the helm "a-weather," run the jib up, 
fill the head-yards, and the after-yards kept-to. Everything is 
now arranged to bring her round again, when she must be man- 
aged as before mentioned. 



384.— ON GETTING TO SEA. 

Unship the man-ropes, stow them 
away, secure the gangways, pay down 
the messenger, and secure anchors and 
boats. The anchors ought to be se- 
cured with preventer stoppers, and 
painters, particularly where they work 
with a slip-shackle or tricker, which a 
rope catching, may drag or drive out. 
In fact the jib-sheet is apt to do this 
if not looked to. 

Wash and dry the nippers, then 
stow them away ; wash down the anchors and buoys, and black 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 205 

them as soon as possible ; when clear of the land, unbend cables, 
buoys, and buoy-ropes, and ship the blind-buckles, unless prevent- 
ed by peculiar circumstances. 

Take off the harbor-gaskets and have them repaired and 
blackened afresh, when convenient. If the bunt-gaskets, however, 
are retained on the yards, roll them up snug and secure them. 
Put the sea-gaskets on, make them up in cheises, and keep them 
before the yards. 

Place bunt-line spans to their respective yards. 

Have the boats' sails and awnings dried and put below. 

Q,uarter-boats clear for lowering. 

Besides these, the watch on deck, when not employed in more 
pressing duties, may be occupied to much advantage as fol- 
lows, viz. : 

1st. Exercising small-arms, cutlasses and guns ; 

2d. Pointing all ropes requiring it ; 

3d. Working up a sufficient quantity of junk, into seizmg- 
stuff, mats, swabs, foxes, thumb-lines, knittles, gaskets, reef- 
points, nippers, salvagees, straps, &c, &c. 



385.— ON FIRE REGULATIONS IN THE MERCHANT- 
SERVICE. 

We now come to the most important of all the regulations in 
a ship, namely, those which operate against the fatal and shock- 
ing effects of fire. Whatever good results from stationing people 
in ordinary cases, cannot be put in competition with this, which 
provides against the most dreadful catastrophe incident to a ship. 
Prom the number of unfortunate accidents of this nature we 
surely ought to be prepared to our utmost for such an event. 

First, by internal precautions ; and 

Secondly, by the means to be used against the danger. 

Let there be great attention in the use of fire and lights. — The 
regulations on these subjects which exist in men of war are still 
more required in merchant vessels. 

Fires should be put out at eight p. m., and all lights at nine 
p. m., except those required for the binnacle, and on deck. 

The officer of the last dog-watch ought to report the fire extin- 
guished to the captain. 

As each man is relieved from the wheel, he should examine 
below, and report " all well " to the officer of the watch. 

No naked light whatever ought to be permitted ; let either 
lanterns or lamps be used. 

Spirits should be drawn off by day ; a naked light should on 
no account be permitted near a spirit cask. 



206 THE KEDGE-ANCF.OR; 

Smoking should not be allowed below. I have known more 
than one ship set on fire by a man's pipe ; and by segars, I have 
no doubt many have been burnt. 

In stowing a hold, do not allow naked lights to be used, nor 
any person to smoke there when so employed. 

On receiving cotton as a cargo, both those who ship as well 
as those who receive it, ought to ascertain that it is in a safe state 
before it be put on board. I have known instances of its being 
sold and moved away, when, in a few hours, if it had not been 
moved, it would have ignited. 

I am acquainted with the particulars of a ship that was burnt 
some years since, where oil had been stowed in the hold with 
cotton over it, with what was considered safe and secure dunnage 
between. The cotton, notwithstanding, absorbed a quantity of 
oil, became heated, and ignited. The crew with difficulty saved 
themselves in the boats before the flames burst forth, and the 
vessel was entirely consumed. 

Chests containing bottles of inflammable substances, such as 
vitriol, &c, cannot be too well secured. A medicine chest upset, 
in a gale may set fire to a ship. 

Friction matches should never be allowed on board a ship. 

The coals in steamers have frequently taken fire, and in many 
cases with the most fatal consequences. Too much care cannot 
be taken in the selection of coals ; a strict examination ought to 
be made as to their state when received and stowed, and no sus- 
picious circumstances should be then overlooked. When receiv- 
ing coals, avoid throwing the fresh ones on the old, which ought 
to be kept uppermost, and Jirst for use. When once they become 
ignited, I can hardly offer a remedy for the evil. 

When coals take fire, some people throw water upon them, 
and smother the fire by wet beds. Hot water, or steam, if they 
can be used, are more expeditious than cold water in extinguish- 
ing fire, I believe. To attempt to discharge the coals, would al- 
low the air freer access, and would be certain to increase the 
power of the fire. 

A few canvass buckets, with long lanyards, should be always 
prepared and ready on deck for drawing water. 

When a fire is first discovered, shorten all low sails directly, 
courses up, stay-sails and wind-sails down, boat-covers taken off. 

If the sails should take fire from lightning, or any other cause, 
cutting away the mast appears the most likely method of saving 
the ship. 

At first, endeavor if possible, to stifle the fire ; which may be 
best done by shutting off any draught of air, and smothering it 
with wet bedding, small sails, &c, until a good supply of waier 
can be applied. 

If the fire is forward, put before the wind until it is necessary 
to " out boats," then bring-to. 

If the fire is aft, or a-midships, keep to the wind. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



207 



386.— STATION BILL FOR FIRE, IN THE MER- 
CHANT SERVICE.* 



Coolness and steadiness in any misfortune by fire are essential 
to arrest it 

If a fire break out below, the hatchways should be immediately 
covered, to prevent a draught of air. 

Ring the ship's bell to call the men to their stations. 



men's names. 
A very steady man - 

The carpenter, and 
one man. 



The chief mate, boat- 
swain, and ship's cook. 

A man of each watch 
or more. 



A boy. 



Remainder of star- 
board watch. 



Remainder of larboard 
watch. 



Cabin steward, and 
cabin boy. 

Second mate to direct 
fire hose, and the sup- 
ply of water from 
deck. 

The crew. 



DUTIES. 

To the helm. 

-First, to cover hatchways with gratings and 
tarpaulins. 
Secondly, to rig pumps and lead hoses; and 
Thirdly, get the tools ready for cutting away, 

L if required. 

To attend where the fire is, and pass water to 



To the pumps, and to draw water as for wash- 
ing decks. 

To collect all the buckets to the part where the 
water is being drawn. 



{ 



First duty to haul up courses, brail up trysails 

and spanker. 
Second duty, draw and pass water with the fire 

buckets ; then for third duty see below. 



f First duty, to haul up courses, brail up trysails 

and spanker. 
^ Second duty, to soak small sails and bedding to 
throw over and smother the fire ; then for third 
duty see below. 

If any powder or other combustibles are on 
board, to throw them overboard if possible, 
or drown them. 

If the fresh water is in tanks, turn the waste- 
valvesf of two of them for a first supply for 
the pump, and then go to direct fire hose, &c. 

("Third duties of the crew, the yard and stay- 
's tackles to be got up ready for getting out 
t_ boats. 



* This bill ought to be written out or printed, and hung up for every one's in- 
spection. 

f The mate ough; to have the key of the valves of the water tanks in bis own 
keeping. 



208 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



men's names. 



DUTIES. 



The crew. 



f Fourth duties of the crew, if the fire appears to 

increase, out boats, and lower down the 

< quarter boats ; let them lay off in a string to 

windward, with a man and a boy as keepers, 

|_ ready for the rest of the crew if required. 

The captain To attend at all the stations as he deems best. 

If the ship cannot be saved, the passengers and crew are the 
first objects, with some fresh water and biscuit ; a compass, quad- 
rant and Bowditch. Unless there is sufficient time, and it can 
be done without endangering the sea- worthiness of the boats, 
nothing should be taken that is not essential to the mere preser- 
vation of life, and necessary for navigating the boats. 



387.— TAKING TO THE BOATS. 

The captain should in his own mind, and by a private memo- 
randum, station the passengers and crew to the boats on board, 
and likewise make the persons here specified be responsible for 
having the following articles put into the boats. 



Captain. 



First mate. 



Second mate. 



Surgeon 

Carpenter. 

Third mate, or boat- 
swain. 

Sail maker. 
Cook, and steward. 



Compass, Maury on Navigation, sextant, spy- 
glass, Nautical Almanac, pencils and writing 
paper, general chart, pocket watch, pair ot 
compasses, &c. 

Oars, masts, sails, boat-hooks, bolt of canvass, 
boat's compass, Bowditch's chart, ensign. 

Two or three bags of biscuits, some breakers of 
water, quadrant, pencils and writing paper, 
half-gill measure, a musket, box of cartridges, 
and flints or caps. 

• Pocket instruments. 

Hammer, nails, sheet-lead, grease, fearnought, 
oakum, saw, chisel, turn-screw, cold chisel, a 
vial of sweet oil, any small iron rod. 

Coil of inch rope, long reel, deep-sea reel, paint- 
ed canvass, marling-spikes, spun-yarn, &c. 

Palm, needles, twine, fishing-lines, hooks, paint- 
ed canvass, boat's awning. 

Tinder-box. flints and tinder, small box, lantern 
and candles, cheese, cabin biscuit, chocolate. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 209 

pocket knife, a change of flannels 



Each person. j A £ d S^JT 



With a scarcity of food, savages attempt to lessen the cravings 
of hunger by tightening a belt around the waist ; and by sucking 
a pebble they in some degree alleviate thirst. Chewing tobacco 
may also be serviceable under such circumstances. In such 
emergencies all must fare alike. . 



388.— LOSING A RUDDER AT A CRITICAL MOMENT, 

(such as crossing a Bar, <$fc.) 

A ship might lose her rudder at a critical moment in crossing 
the bar of a river, when a few minutes more might run her 
aground, if she were unmanageable ; and in this case, what tem- 
porary rudder is best becomes a question for which a few moments 
only are given to decide. The plan of steering by the stream- 
cable payed out astern, or by the stern-boat lowered instantly, with 
the plug out, and towed astern by a hawser, with guys leading 
up to each quarter, would perhaps then be adopted ; while a ship 
losing her rudder at sea would have leisure to adopt any other 
plan. 

It might be an advantage, if every vessel would take some op- 
portunity of trying how she could steer with a stern-boat in the 
manner described, and what length of tow-line was required to 
enable her to steer the most easily, so as to avoid wild yawing. 
The experiment might be made in moderate weather with the 
wind on the quarter, and also right aft, under top-sails, top-gal- 
lant-sails and fore-sail, running five or six knots. Nothing gives 
confidence so much as practice. 



389.— STEAMERS GETTING AGROUND. 

As steamers would probably do so with very fresh way on, 
they ought at once to stop their engines, but on no account to 
attempt to reverse them, until the extent of the injury be ascer- 
tained ; otherwise they may go down in deep water. Their first 
duty is to out boats, and place the passengers in safety in them ; 
the crew might then ascertain the state of the vessel ; if she is 
likely to float, and can be got off, the attempt to do so should be 
made ; but if not, the crew can take to the boats. 
14 



210 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



390.— ON THE DUTY OF REMAINING BY A 
DAMAGED VESSEL 

When two vessels have run foul of each other, the one which 
is the least injured is bound, by every sense of justice and hu- 
manity, to stay by the other to render every assistance in her 
power ; a contrary proceeding ought to make the guilty party 
liable to some punishment. If one appears likely to sink, the 
the boat lashings should be cut, that the boat or boats may be 
got out or float off. 




When freshly blows the northern gales, 
Then under courses snug we fly ; 
When lighter breezes swell the sails, 
Then royals proudly sweep the sky. 



PART VII 



MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS 



391.— ON SQUARING YARDS. 

Simple as may seem the process of squaring yards, it is never- 
theless a piece of duty which requires considerable precision, and 
this precision can never be obtained without a knowledge of the 
principle upon which the yards should be squared. A boatswain, 
ignorant of this principle, will generally proceed thus : he first 
bouses taut the lower trusses, squares the yards by the braces, 
and, quite regardless of the distance of the topsail-yards from 
their respective caps, or looking to see if the yards are a-midships, 
directs the chief boatswain's mate to take his station on the 
end of the jib-boom, whilst he himself proceeds in the boat ahead 
of the ship to square the yards by the lifts. Should the fore-yard 
be required to be topped to starboard, the boatswain will top 
away upon the yard-arm until, by chance, he discovers he has 
topped it too high ; to remedy this eye sore, he sings out " Fore- 
yard to port" and tops until he raises the larboard arm as high 
as the starboard ; producing by this system of topping, and never 
settling, a most unsightly bow in the yard. He then squares the 
fore-topsail yard by the bowed fore-yard, and of course treats the 
fore-topsail yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the 
main yard in hand, which, though probably square by the lifts, 
can no longer look so in his eye, because the yard arms are not 
made to cock up like those of the fore yard. "Main yard to 
starboard" he sings out, with an audible voice ; the lift is topped 
several feet to starboard, and then to port, until the yard assumes 
the desired cock the boatswain has in his eye in squaring the 
loftier yards by the lifts. Boatswains seldom take the precaution 
to place hands to tend the top-gallant braces. It should be re- 
membered that the topping of the lifts alter and disturb the square 
position of the yards by the braces. These may appear minute 



214 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

matters, but unless they be strictly observed, yards never can be 
properly squared. 

In squaring yards by the lifts, the lanyards should always be 
unrove to two or three turns, the jigger hooked to them and 
hauled taut ; and when topping on one lift always ease the op- 
posite lanyard with the jigger ; if not, the lanyard will render 
with jerks, and the yard will probably have to be topped the op- 
posite way. The lanyards should be rocked when sufficiently up, 
the plan of nipping with hands being a lazy, bad practice ; and 
after much time spent in getting the yards nicely squared, the 
lanyards have come up in securing. The ropes should be all 
hauled taut before the boat comes on board ; all the ropes coiled 
neatly and low in the tops ; nothing allowed to hang over the 
bows, which should be kept quite clear ; and everything done to 
make the ship appear in every respect what a man-of-war ought 
to be. 

Being particular in one part and not in another, has almost a 
worse appearance than slovenly altogether. As the ship is con- 
sidered a would-be man-of-war, and is the cause of many re- 
marks, which, if heard by the commanding officer, would not be 
at all complimentary to his nautical knowledge, if anything 
should be studied more than another, it is the standing rigging 
and position of the masts and yards, <fcc, &c. 

Note. — Before squaring the yards, the boatswain is recommend- 
ed to see that the masts, and particularly the lofty spars, are up- 
right and all in one. It frequently happens that after the boat- 
swain has squared all the yards, fore and aft, he detects an 
awkward inclination in one of the topgallant-masts ; he never- 
theless returns on board, and reports to the senior lieutenant, 
yards squared and ropes taut, but afterwards desires the captain 
of the top to get a pull on the starboard or larboard top-gallant 
breast-backstay, forgetting that this very pull affects the top-gal- 
lant lifts, and consequently alters the position of the yards. The 
first thing after the masts are all in one, or upright, as you choose 
to term it, is to get your yards exactly amidships by rolling- 
tackles ; then get them snugly trussed to the mast, and square 
them by the braces, before proceeding ahead of the ship. 



392.— UP TOPGALLANT MASTS AND YARDS— 

(The Masts, <fyc. being on deck.) 

One watch of topmen aloft, to get jack or tail blocks on, for 
yard ropes, as also for flying jib and staysail halliards ; if the 
sails are about to be loosed, have jiggers on the topgallant stays, 
ready for setting up, and burtons overhauled, ready for clapping 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 215 

on the mast ropes ; in Adding, the other watch see everything 
clear, and get tackles on the backstays, ready for setting up the 
instant the mast is stayed. 



WORDS OF COMMAND. 

b All hands, up topgallant-masts and yards" — and loose sails 
if requisite. 

" Sway away" — let the masts wait for each other, after i 
placing the topgallant rigging, so that they may afterwards 
ascend uniformly, and be ridded together. Instantly the fids are 
in, stay topgallant-masts, and set up the quarter, or standing 
backstays ; then without waiting for more of the rigging, proceed 
to cross topgallant-yards alone, along with the loosing of the 
sails, as may be requisite, and as is described in 394. 

Remarks. — The mast-heads and eyes of the rigging, or fun- 
nels, should be greased. 

If topgallant-sails are unbent, and royal yard-ropes good, it 
will make the work of crossing topgallant-yards all the easier, to 
use royal in place of topgallant-yard ropes. 

If there be no capshore, the topmast cap is apt to droop for- 
ward, and by catching and jaming the topgallant-masts, to in- 
terfere materially in the attempt to send them up smartly ; the 
caps ought therefore to be well looked after. If the topgallant, 
royal, and skysail masts, be all in one, it is generally found 
necessary to let fall the bunts of the topsails, in order to get the 
masts up ; at sea the yards must be braced up, the topsails low- 
ered two-thirds down, and the mast sent up to windward. 



393.— DOWN TOPGALLANT-MASTS AND YARDS. 

One watch, or part of a watch of topmen, aloft, to clear away 
the topgallant rigging, unreeve flying-jib and staysail-halliards, 
get jack or tail-blocks on, for royal and topgallant yard-ropes, 
and burtons on the mast-ropes. 

The other watch of topmen on deck, unlace the backstay-mats, 
and slack the oackstay lanyards. 

When ready, "sway away" two hands at the mast-head look- 
ing out for the fids, the lanyards of which they should be cau- 
tioned to see fast ; and two on topsail-yard to bear the heel clear, 
and make fast heel-rope. 

When the fids are out, hang the backstays to the tops, lower 
all the masts together, and get heel-ropes on, which should be in 
readiness, from the deck to the fid-holes. 



210 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

If the rigging does not start easily, sway and surge without 
delay ; clap on the lizard through the royal-halliard sheave-hole, 
as soon as it can be got at ; then lower the masts on deck, either 
placing them fore and aft, or up and down the lower masts. 

Haul the rigging and backstays taut down from the mast- 
heads, and stop them down along the topmast rigging, coiling 
away the slack bights snug in the tops ; also haul taut the stays 
and all the small ropes. 

See that the trucks are fairly placed, so that the signal-hal- 
liards may traverse freely. 

1/ the masts are only housed, haul the topgallant rigging and 
backstays taut, as above, but stay the royal-masts, and sheep- 
shank and set up the royal backstays and shrouds, if there 
be any, or what is preferable, stop the slack part in bights, and 
then set up ; also steady the heels of the topgallant-masts to the 
topmast by a heel-rope. 

Remarks. — The yards, according to circumstances, may be 
either sent down at the moment you begin to lower the masts, 
or at that w T hen you begin to sway the masts, in order to take 
out the fid. The former has the best effect, but in that case it is 
essential to have picked hands to lower, and not to commence 
lowering until the lower yard-arm is unrigged. 



394.— CROSSING TOPGALLANT AND ROYAL-YARDS, 
AND LOOSING SAIL. 

That all the squadron may be prepared to cross yards and 
loose sail at eight, or for any other manoeuvre, deemed proper at 
the hoisting of the colors, the flag ship sometimes makes it a rule 
to designate seven bells, that is 7 h. 30 m., by giving the prepar- 
atory signal. The squadron have then an opportunity of regu- 
lating their time by the Commodore's, and making such prepara- 
tions for eight as may be necessary. 

If this be done, and another very proper rule enforced, viz. : 
the allowing no one, on any account, to be aloft between five 
minutes before eight, and the time of making the signal, every 
ship will be upon an equal footing in the keen competition 
which immediately ensues. 



PREPARATIONS. 



Send the hands aloft to overhaul the lifts and braces ; prepare 
studding-sail-booms for tricing up, bend the top bowlines to the 
buntline toggles, overhaul the gear of the courses, coiling it snug 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 217 

down on the lower yards, and take the cloths and half the gas- 
kets off the fore and aft sail ; also stretch along and reeve the 
yard-ropes. 



WORDS OF COMMAND. 

"All hands, cross yards and loose sails ;" 

" Aloft, topmen f 

" Aloft, sail loosers ;" 

Sway out of the chains — viz. • upper topgallant yard-arms 
clear of top-rims, or lubber's-hole ; royal yard-arms clear of cross- 
trees. 

" Sway away ;" trice up, lay out. 

"Sway across — let fall," — the men at the same time hoisting 
jibs and staysails, hauling out the bowlines, getting down the 
squaring-marks of topgallant and royal lifts and braces, and 
hoisting ensign, jack, and pendant. 

A boat should then be manned without delay, for the boat- 
swain to go ahead, look at the yards, see the head-sails taut up. 
the bowline properly out, and everything ready for shortening 
sail. 

If the bowliues are not to be hauled out, and, in consequence, 
the jibs and staysails not hoisted, nor the sheets of trysail and 
spanker hauled aft, proceed as follows, viz. : — 

Keep fast the topsail clewlines, and haul up the buntlines ; 
throw the jibs out off the booms without touching the halliards, 
and slack off the trysail and spanker-brails ; overhaul the brails 
on one side and haul them up — on the other loose the small 
sails enough for the wind to blow through, which will prevent 
their heatiug, and even should it rain slightly, will avert much 
harm. 

Remark. — The frequent loosing of the sails is essential, to 
prevent them from mildewing, particularly when new, and before 
the gum has been shaken out. 



395.— TOPMAST CARRIED AWAY. 

I would recommend vessels to use curb-chain, for parrels for 
topsail-yards ; let it be w T ormed, parceled and covered with leather; 
the seizings must be frequently examined. Carrying away a 
parrel may occasion a serious loss of life, should there happen to 
be any men on the yard at the time, and even if there are not, 
this accident is very likely to carry away the topmast. 

The funnels used for top-gallant rigging, are frequently used for 
topmast rigging ; they are also very serviceable, and if a topmast is 



218 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

carried away, the funnel is then invaluable, as the topmast may 
be shifted so much more quickly, the rigging remaining properly 
placed. 



396 CLEARING THE WRECK OF A TOPMAST. 

Watch on deck to secure the wreck, and prevent its doing in- 
jury — watch below to shorten sail. Hook top-blocks, reeve in 
them two hawsers ; the stoutest to leeward, for passing round 
and securing the wreck, in order to get the rigging &c. in-board. 

Hook luff-tackles in the lower pendants — let the other topgal- 
lant yards be sent down, and the topgallant masts housed until 
the topmast is shifted. If it be a fore-topmast that is carried 
away, ease in the jib-boom — cut the lanyards of the topmast rig- 
ging, securing the dead-eyes by studding-sail-halliards. 

The weather-hawser may be employed to unfld the stump. 



397.— CARRYING AWAY A JIB-BOOM. 

Send down the fore-topgallant-yard, and house the fore-topgal- 
lant-mast; use the fore-topmast staysail-halliards, and lee-fore- 
bowline, for securing and getting in the wreck. 



398 TO FISH A LOWER YARD IN THE SHORTEST 

TIME. 

Incalculable are the evils which may result to a vessel from 
the springing or snapping of a lower yard, especially the fore one. 

If the yard be severed, get both pieces down on deck, and place 
them together, to assume, as near as possible, their original posi- 
tion. Hollow out, so as to fit the cylindrical surface of the yard, 
two spare anchor-stock pieces, (or two proper fishes always fitted, 
and to be kept as spare stores), in doing which, a depth of two oi 
three inches will suffice ; place one piece on the top, and the 
other secured to the under part of the yard, towards the extrem- 
ities ; dub down the superfluous wood, and round the edges, 
ready to receive the requisite wooldings. 

Previous to boring holes for the bolts, set close-to the anchor- 
stock pieces, with wedge upon wedge ; introduce then eight bolts, 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 219 

of three-quarter inch diameter, which must be severally clinched. 
Cut scores for eight wooldings, and woold away with well-stretch- 
ed rope, of two-and-a-half inch. The yard may then be replaced 
aloft. There will be found no necessity for studding-sail booms, 
or other spare spars. 



399.— EXPECTATION OF LOSING A LOWER MAST. 

Every vessel should have a spare lower cap on board ; it should 
be in two parts (for the convenience of stowing), with bolts for 
securing it together. 

In the event of losing a lower mast, the cap put on the spare 
topmasts, and then raised on the stump of the lower mast (hav- 
ing been previously fitted for it), at once enables a jury mast to 
be stopped and secured ; clap on a good heel lashing. 

Those vessels which have lower dead-eyes secured to the side, 
are enabled to get clear of the wreck of a lower mast more read- 
ily than those with the old channels and chain plates. Those 
which are fitted in the last mentioned manner, when likely to 
lose a lower mast, should reeve a hawser through the lanyards 
of the rigging on each side, and have it well secured ; they will 
then be enabled to disengage the lanyards from the channels, and 
get clear of the wreck, whose thumping might otherwise injure 
either the ship's bottom or rudder. 



400.— LYING-TO IN A GALE, AFTER THE LOSS OF 

MASTS. 

Put a stout span on a spare topmast or other large spar, and 
veer a long scope on a hawser, or stream chain-cable, from the 
bow, by a spring on it from aft ; it may be used for wearing. 
The wreck of a mast would answer well for lying-to with, and 
when the weather became fine, the spars and rigging would ma- 
terially assist in refitting jury masts. 



401.— SPARS TO CONVERT IN CASE OF NEED. 

Officers will do well to consider what spars they have on board 
which can be the most readily and efficiently converted, so as to 
supply the place of any which may be lost. 



220 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

A spare topmast, or if in a brig, a main-boom, are the spars 
that could be the most, quickly converted into a jury lower mast, 
or bowsprit ; a mizen-mast would be still better, if the weather 
would permit its being shifted. 

A topmast studding-sail boom, with the sail as a lug, makes a 
sufficiently good mizen. 

If the bowsprit is sprung, let the jib-boom be eased in nearly 
to the bulwark. When a vessel is lying-to, and there is a heavy 
sea running, it would be prudent to have tackles up for steadying 
the foremast, as in the event of the bowsprit being struck, and 
either sprung or carried away, the mast would be saved. 

A jib-boom will answer well for making a topsail yard. 

Note. — It is surprising how well vessels answer when jury rig- 
ged, and in many cases will sail nearly as fast as when they 
have there proper masts, yards, and sails. 

Sails may be reduced by taking out midship cloths, and by the 
head for depth. 

When vessels take the ground, from a falling tide, or any other 
cause, they ought to be prepared with three shores on a side, the 
lower ends a little off. 

The first abreast the foremast ; 

The second amidships : 

The third abaft the main-sheet sheave. 

A measure should be previously taken of the exact depth from 
the bulwark to the ground. The lower end of the shores require 
some weight, and a flat piece for a shoe secured on each, if the 
ground is soft. On the upper end of each shore there should be 
a cleat on the fore side and after side, for securing the lashing to 
the bulwark. 

For small vessels, two shores on each side would be sufficient ; 
one might be under the fore, and one under the main channel. 
The preparation of shores will be found to be a very useful one : 
many vessels fall over on the water leaving them, and then run 
considerable risk of filling, or not righting again. 



402.— GETTING AGROUND. 

If a vessel gets aground (the weather being moderate), first get 
over the spare topmasts on one side, and the jib-boom on the other, 
as shores abreast of the mainmast, or a little before it; secure 
some weight to the heel of each ; a few shot, or a light pig of bal- 
last will do for that purpose, and if the ground is soft, nail on a 
piece of plank as a shoe. Furl sails, out all boats, down topgal- 
lant yards, and send topgallant masts on deck; start water, and 
pump it out ; lay out a bower anchor ; be sure that it is so laid 
that the ship does not ground on it. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 221 

Every officer should make himself well acquainted with the 
readiest mode of hanging and carrying out a bower anchor, as 
far as relates to the weight of those belonging to his own vessel. 
and the description of boats he has to use. If he cannot heave 
off, he must then endeavor to lighten the vessel by discharging 
part of the cargo. 

Before heaving off, an examination ought to be made, so as to 
ascertain, as near as possible, the extent of the injury which the 
vessel has received since aground, if the shore be rocky, that it 
may be remedied before heaving off, if possible ; if the vessel has 
run on with much way, it is possible that she may not float, even 
if she were got off. In this case the lives of the passengers and 
crew become the first consideration. 



403.— THE BALLAST SHIFTING AT SEA. 

This frequently occasions losses at sea. To prevent its occur- 
rence, when iron ballast is stowed, let a few oak battens be nailed 
from the sides athwart ships, to secure it ; or when shingle bal- 
last is used, place a light flooring over it, secured by a few bat- 
tens athwart ships. This would most probably prevent such a 
calamity, which usually occurs when a vessel is struck by a 
heavy sea, or when hove on her beam ends, and prevents the 
possibility of her righting again ; when the ballast is stowed, it 
ought to be secured at the same time from shifting ; this is of 
great moment, and a few strong battens will do it. Also have 
shifting boards amidships, nailed to the stanchions. 



404.— VESSELS SURPRISED ON OPPOSITE TACKS. 

In cases of surprise and danger, from the accidental meeting 
of two ships on opposite tacks, in the night, it too often happens 
that officers are more apt to give orders to the stranger, than to 
take any measure of precaution themselves ; such as hailing to 
put the helm up or down, and to clear them, when they may be 
as much in fault, and possess the same means of extricating 
themselves from the difficulty. In situations of this sort, it is 
much better that both parties should put their helms down rather 
than up ; the ships will approach each other for a time, but will 
diminish in velocity, and afterwards separate. 

Obstinacy, or a want of judgment in the directing parties, fre- 
quently leads both vessels to bear up at the same instant ; con- 



222 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : 



sequently causing immediate collision. It is a universal rule 
with seamen, that where there is doubt, the vessel on the lar- 
board tack is to bear up or to heave about, for the vessel on the 
starboard tack ; were this prudent regulation strictly adhered 
to, and never violated by the obstinacy of parties, accidents 
would seldom occur; but it sometimes happens that incidental 
circumstances induce both parties to risk " a trial of skill," by 
one endeavoring to weather the other. In these cases doubt and 
hesitation generally prevail, and disaster is sure to follow. 



405.— MEETING AT SEA. 




Bend on the ensign and pendant, if a private ship 
Hoist the ensign and pendant, when sufficiently near, if the 
vessel you are meeting be a ship of war. 

In hailing, the ordinary questions commence thus; 

"What ship is that?" 

"Whence come you?" 

"Where are you bound?" &c., &c 



406.— A HINT ON KUNNING TOO LONG. 

Vessels ought not to run too long, when the sea is high and 
breaking, but bring-to in time, and do so by daylight if possible. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 223 



407.— A HINT ON ROUNDING-TO IN A GALE. 

An experienced seaman remarks, that when he wished to 
bring-to in a hard gale, when running before a heavy sea, he 
always watched for a heavy sea breaking abaft the main chains, 
and immediately after, he eased the helm down, and rounded-to 
at once, being previously prepared for doing so. In managing 
this way, he found he could avoid shipping a sea. 



408.— ON MAKING YOUR PORT. 

Never run for your port in very heavy gales, or thick weather, 
unless sure of the ship's position. 

Note. — There are some ports, that may be entered with safety 
at night by sailing vessels, but there are many more where it 
cannot be attempted, without great risk of getting aground, or 
being wrecked. 

I do not know anything to compensate for running that risk, 
except an urgent necessity ; as, when anchored, nothing can be 
done until morning. Lay-to in preference, and carry a light at 
the main-stay at night. Gales do not last long, and finer wea 
ther follows. 

While lying-to in gales, always keep the ship steeling with the 
helm nearly " amidships," — never let it be kept " a lee," as the 
ship will not be under command without steerage-way, or be 
safe and easv. 



409.— LYING OFF, AND ON, TO ENTER A PORT. 

I have known so many vessels wrecked while lying-to with a 
topsail to the mast, with their head in shore, that I recommend 
(if it is moderate weather), to make short tacks, under easy sail, 
as then the ship's place can always be kept worked up ; whereas 
her drift while lying-to is uncertain. Let the tacks in shore be 
shorter than the ones off, to give the coast a good berth. It is 
better to be a mile further out than to get aground. 



224 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

410.— TO ANCHOR AND VEER A LONG SCOPE 
OF CABLE. 

Whenever, and wherever you anchor, veer a long scope of ca- 
ble at once, — never lay short unless when getting underweigh. 
No ship ought to lay at single anchor for more than a few hours. 
Moor with a whole cable each way, as soon as possible. All ves- 
sels ought to have swivels, and moor with one, to keep a clear 
hawse. 

Bend the sheet-cable, and see the anchor clear for letting go as 
soon as you have moored. In the winter, be prepared for strik- 
ing lower yards and topmasts, if necessary. 



411.— PREPARATIONS FOR GOING INTO HARBOR. 

The paint work outside should be scrubbed, and, if the wea- 
ther permit, freshen up where most wanted — for instance, under 
the bows. The masts should be scraped and properly stayed, 
the tips of studding-sail booms painted, and the rigging slightly 
touched with blacking, when brown or worn. The good order 
of the ratlines should be attended to, swinging-boom ladders and 
pendants got ready, and all the chafing-gear taken off. The 
boats' sails and awnings should be clean and ready for use, the 
masts and oars scraped, scrubbed, or painted, as required ; the 
smokesail clean, also the wind-sails. Clean hammocks may be 
slung, and neatly stowed. The cables (including the sheet, if it 
blows hard), should be bent in plenty of time, &c. &c. The 
ship's company clean and in uniform — the accommodation lad- 
der got ready, and in good order for shipping when at anchor. 



412.— CAUTIONS AT NIGHT— (LOOKOUTS). 

A good lookout should be kept at night. As soon as it is 
dark, every vessel should carry a light under the fore-top ; this 
should be a rule, and not even left optional. If this light were 
carried in a lantern with green glass, the distinguishing light of 
a sailing vessel would be known. Steamers on the coast, bays, 
or harbors, usually carry wheel-house lights, as well as a mast- 
head one. 

The sea-going steamers mostly carry two horizontal lights — 
they are therefore easily distinguished. Sailing vessels on the 



OR ?OUNG SAILORS 1 ASSISTANT. 225 

coast ought always to have a light kept on deck (in a tub or 
bucket, for shading it), ready to be shown, as steamers sometimes 
come up astern. 

A musket loaded with blank cartridge is useful as a signal to 
call attention, and should be kept ready at hand. 

A vessel on the starboard tack should show a light at the lee- 
cathead. A vessel on the larboard tack should show a light on 
the weather cathead. 



413 WHEN TWO VESSELS ARE IN COLLISION. 

If in a tide's way, and in less than ten fathoms, the headmost 
one should anchor either with a stream or bower, as most con- 
venient. 

If on soundings from thirty to ten fathoms, the headmost ves- 
sel should drop a kedge-anchor. 

If vessels get foul of each other in deep water (should the 
w T eather be sufficiently moderate), get a boat ahead of the head- 
most and another astern of the sternmost, and two apart in op- 
posite ways. 

If a vessel anchor too close in another's hawse, the one next 
ahead of her should send her a tow-line, with which she might 
pass a hawser on board to enable her to warp clear. 



41 4.— SQUALLS— (CAUTION). 

They usually give some notice by gathering up black in the 
horizon. If the darkness rises up and thins away at the bottom, 
it will not be strong ; but if it still continues thick in the horizon, 
expect wind. Shorten sail before it comes. Clouds high, with 
hard edges, denote dry and strong winds. A large halo around 
the moon betokens high wind. Be guarded when clouds pass 
overhead — the strength of the wind is then very often most felt. 



415.— WATER SPOUTS— (CAUTION). 

A water-spout appears like a speaking-trumpet, with the small 
ends downwards. (It is said the concussion caused by firing 
guns is likely to disperse it.) If one should be near, and likely 
15 



226 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

to break on board, clew-up and furl all (see the topsail clew-lines 
are afterwards belayed) batten the hatches, have scupper clear 
and pumps ready, and spar-deck ports out. 



416.— PRESSURE OF WATER AT DIFFERENT 
DEPTHS. 

If a ship has the flattest part of her bottom lying sixteen feet 
deep (which is often the case), the water then presses sixteen 
times as much upwards against this flat part, as it does upon 
any part of the same ship about the waters' edge ; and so on any 
other part, according to the depth. For example, suppose this 
ship to have four leaks, or plug holes of equal size, that could be 
driven out occasionally — the first at one foot under water, the 
second at four feet, the third at nine feet, and the lowest at six- 
teeu feet, in the flat part of her bilge; that hole at four feet deep 
would leak or let in as much water again, in the same time, as 
that at one foot ; and that at nine feet, three times as much ; 
and that at sixteen feet, four times as much, though if run into 
the ship upwards ; and so on in proportion to the square root of 
the height of the water above the leak or plug hole. Therefore 
leaks in ships are more or less dangerous, according to their 
depth under water. 

Note. — On first springing a leak, it will rush in faster until the 
water inside is as high as the place where the leak is ; and will 
pour in less the higher it gets inside. 



417.--0N STOPPING LEAKS. 

If we reflect on the present mode, so constantly practiced, of 
watering, by means of a canvass hose from the shore, through 
the salt-water into the boat, we can have little doubt of the reten- 
tive power of canvass. When it can be at all ascertained where 
a leak is situated (provided it be not too near the keel, or too 
much in the run), if it be in any part where you can bring a sail 
in contact with it, so as to cover it, remember that a canvass 
hose, when once saturated, becomes tolerably water-tight. If 
part of a sail of No. 1 canvass be doubled and brought by ropes 
to cover the leak, though it may not stop it, there can be no 
doubt it will materially assist in reducing it. 

This canvass must be well and strongly roped and stitched 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT, 227 

together, and it had better not be too large ; the smaller it is, 
(provided the purpose be answered), the better ; as it will be less 
likely to be torn away. In placing it, the rope ought to be out- 
wards. This double canvass may be placed in its position by 
ropes under the keel or out of the hawse-hole. A sail might be 
used for this purpose. 



418.— EXAMINATION OF CHAIN CABLES. 

The cables must be got on deck, pins and bolts driven out of 
the shackles, and w T ell cleaned and white leaded ; every link 
sounded with a hammer by the armorer, and some of the lengths 
transposed. Splicing pieces and spare shackles should be re- 
membered at the same time, and treated in the same way. 

Note. — Wooden pins are frequently used in connecting the 
shackles, not being liable to rust, and can always be taken out 
easy. Hickory is the best wood to make them of. 



419.— MINUTE GUNS. 

If more than one ship be present, minute guns are not usually 
fired by all at the same time, as in a common salute, but one 
ship follows another, taking up the firing in succession. 

The interval between the firing of each two guns must of 
course be determined by the number of guns to be fired, and the 
time through which they are to be prolonged — a point which is 
optional, and sometimes extended through the day. 




228 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



420.— HOISTING ON BOARD MONEY OR PLATE. 

In hoisting on board money, plate, or other valuables, a buoy 
and buoy-rope, corresponding to the depth of water, ought always 
to be attached thereto, that in case of anything giving way, or 
the money or plate going to the bottom, there may be a ready 
means of recovery at hand. For boxes of treasure, strong nets 3 
in place of slings, are most useful and most safe. 

Note. — Money nets are made like a common wad-net, except- 
ing that the meshes are made smaller and the stuff larger, say 
of a two-inch rope. 




PART VIII. 



421.— STOWING HAMMOCKS. 

Nothing adds more to the smart and favorable appearance of 
a vessel of war than a neat stowage of hammocks. The superin- 
tend ants of this necessary duty are often at fault, forgetting that 
negligence in the performance of this service is seldom permitted 
to pass unnoticed. 

In the stowage of hammocks, the officer should stand on the 
opposite side of the deck, a position which will enable him to 
preserve a symmetrical line, and guide and direct the stower in 
his progress fore and aft the netting ; they are also enjoined to 
be careful that the hammocks of the men be properly lashed up. 
Defaulters in this particular should be reported to the First Lieu- 
tenant. Seven turns at equal distances, is the required number 
of turns with a hammock-lashing. 

Note. — In piping-down hammocks, the officers are cautioned 
not to permit the men to throw them on the deck. 




LASHING UP HAMMOCKS. 



230 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR 



422.— COCKBILLING YARDS— {Mourning). 

The most appropriate time for cockbilling yards seems to be 
daylight, and dark the most proper time for squaring them again ; 
the day then looks as if it were issued in and closed with mourn- 
ing. 

At 8, or the hour of hoisting the colors half-mast, sway up the 
top-gallant yards, slip the lizard, parrel the yards, and cockbill 
them with the others previously reversed. 

To allow the lower yards to top up properly, the trusses must 
be slacked ; and if the topsail sheets are of chain and go with a 
whip, one of them must be unshackled from the clew, and to as- 
sist the lift in topping, a burton is required. 

To allow the topsail yards to top up properly, they must be 
hoisted two feet or so off the caps, the parrels and braces must 
be slacked, and paunch mats taken out ; if there are jaws on, 
slack the jaw-rope. Trysail and spanker gaff should be lowered 
well down, and swinging booms dropped into the water. 

The way of topping the yards ought to be governed by the 
side on which the top-gallant yards are sent up : for instance, 
if the main-top-gallant yard be sent up on the starboard side, the 
main and main-topsail yards should be topped to port. The 
squaring them, when topped, should be done with reference to 
lower yards ; which, in the first place, are topped'as high as the 
top rims will allow ; then being squared by the braces, the top- 
sail and top-gallant yards have only to be parallel. 



423.— DRESSING SHIP WITH FLAGS. 

Though in some particulars the following remarks on dressing 
with flags refer peculiarly to ships in general, they are applicable 
to all classes of vessels ; so much so indeed, that but little varia- 
tion will be found necessary in applying them to line-of-battle 
ships, and so on down to a schooner. 

One mode of dressing a ship with flags is to make an arch of 
them from the flying-jib-boom to the spanker-boom-end ; another 
is to trice the flags up by the signal halliards, stopping them out 
to the yard-arms : but the best way, perhaps, is to combine these 
two modes, if there be flags enough. Hoisted to the trucks ought 
to be the ensign, jack, or the flags of the nation in whose port 
the ship is lying, or whom it is wished particularly to honor ; 
and to give these room to display themselves, the rest of the flags 
should only be triced as high as the top-gallant mast-head. 

If it be determined to combine the two modes of dressing, as 
mentioned above, that is, with up and down flags, as well -s 






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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 231 

with an arch, it will prevent confusion and superabundance, and 
produce an equally good effect to have up and down flags at the 
main only ; and to hoist them, whips or halliards should be 
placed for the purpose, through the top-gallant studding-sail hal- 
liard blocks, and taken outside the brace blocks. 

The iiying-jib halliards will hoist the foremost part of the 
arch, viz. : that which extends from the flying-boom-end to the 
fore-top-gallant mast-head. To the mizen-top-gallant mast-head 
it must be hoisted by a whip placed for the purpose, and hauled 
out to the gaff-end by a whip. 

From the gaff-end the flags composing the arch drop to the 
water, being stopped out to the boom-end, and distended under 
it, as well as under the flying-boom, by small hand-leads : there 
ought also to be downhauls on the arch ; also whips with down- 
hauls between top-gallant mast-heads. Care and taste are ne- 
cessary in sorting and placing the flags. The ensigns should be 
in corresponding places — for instance at the lower yard-arms. 
The square flags should all be together ; also cornets, pendants, 
&c, or else a square flag and cornet alternately, and so on. 

Bad feeling is sometimes occasioned, when foreign ships-of-war 
are assembled, by placing national colors injudiciously, in dress- 
ing ship. This ought to be studiously avoided. This fact has 
given rise to the practice, on "gala days," of hoisting nothing but 
the' national flags at each mast-head, or, if in honor of another 
nation, the flag of that nation at the fore. 

One principal beauty, however, of the manoeuvre in question, 
is to have everything so prepared and foreseen, that immediately 
the yards are crossed, and decently squared, and the mast-head 
flags broke, all the others may be triced up so as to find their 
places readily and without confusion, hands previously prepared, 
laying-out together at the same time to each yard-arm, stopping 
the up and down flag-halliards there : and then at the "word," 
laying-in together. 

At sunset, the best way, perhaps, is to haul the flags down 
just before sending down the top-gallant yards. 



424.— KEEPING THE COPPER CLEAN. 

The good or bad condition of the copper on a ship's bottom 
above the water line, has a wonderful effect upon her appearance. 
If daubed over with blacking, or otherwise neglected, when pos- 
sible to attend to it, a slovenly appearance is communicated to 
the outside look which a ship of war ought to be exempt from. 

One way of managing is to scrub off all spots, and rub it oc- 
casionally with an oily cloth, when there is leisure ; and if this 
is constantly attended to, perhaps it is the best and simplest plan, 
although I have heard yachts find river mud better. 



232 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Another way is to paint it with red ochre and oil, mixed to th6 
color of new copper. When well and effectually done, this will 
preserve a good appearance for a long time ; but the finest and 
calmest weather must be taken advantage of to lay it on, as the 
least ripple will wash all off in its way when wet. 

To clean the copper under the water line, seize on to a hand)^ 
spar of sufficient length, half-a-dozen strong, coarse deck clamps, 
and apply them against the ship's bottom from a stage, if it can 
be got ; if not, from the largest boat, previously keeling the ship, 
by running the guns in on one side, and out on the other. The 
copper of a small vessel may be completely cleaned in this way. 

If the copper on the trysail mast, and fore and main-masts of 
brigs and schooners be attended to and kept clean, it tends very 
much to the appearance of the vessel. The most common obsta- 
cle to this is grease, which generates verdigris excessively, but 
may be easily prevented by attention. 



425.— FURLING FROM A BOWLINE. 

The stress of the work here being on the bunt-lines and ctew- 
ropes, but few hands are required ou the topsail clew-lines. 



Words of Command. 

Call— "All hands furl sails." 

Man the bunt-lines and clew-lines (including the clew-ropes 
and head downhauls). 

" Aloft, top-men ; " — stand by to furl sails. 

" Aloft, lower yard-men ; " — haul taut — shorten sail — lay-out. 

Furl-away, gather up, and pass the gaskets ; — lay in off the 
yards ; — stand by the booms. Down booms — rig them out to the 
mark ; — square the heels. Square yards, stopping up gear at 
the same time. When the yards are squared by the braces, the 
boatswain ought to hurry ahead, to square them by the lifts. 
At the same time haul taut the bow-lines, jib and staysail-hal- 
liards, and see all the clew-lines close up. 

When the yards are squared by the lifts, haul taut topsail and 
top-gallant sheets, and reef-tackles, as well as all other slack 
ropes, (heels of the studding-sail square, &c. &c.) 

Note. — The topsail and top-gallant sheets and reef-tackles 
ought not previously to be hauled taut, because they then inter 
fere with squaring the yards by the lifts. 

Remarks. — The tacks and sheets are generally kept unrove 
in harbor, and the courses hauled up by the clew-rope 1 * one bunt- 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 233 

line and leech-line of a side ; the topsails by the bunt-lines only, 
led through a lizard at the clews, or clew jiggers. The hauling 
down of the headsails is much facilitated by having the halliards 
racked and overhauled at the mast-head, and a hand there ready 
to cut the racking, when the word is given to shorten sail. 



426.— HIGH AND LOW BUNTS. 

Low, or rolling bunts, require bunt-gaskets, and are tedious in 
stowing and securing snug — high, or French bunts, require no 
gaskets, but secure to the topsail-tye by a becket and stopped. 
Being larger, and more open abaft, the slack sail is more easily 
stowed in them than in low bunts ; neither is any time or labor 
lost about bunt-gaskets, a circumstance not to be overlooked, in 
competing with other vessels. 

The look is a matter of taste ; in general, however, topsail- 
yards are thought neatest, with first or second-reefed earings 
hauled partly out, but neither reef-points tied, nor bunt-gaskets 
on ; the bunt described is a French bunt, being secured to the 
tye by a midship-becket in the first reef band, and the sail furled 
in the skin of the first reef and back-cloths. 

Note. — The proper place for the furling-glutt, is two-thirds of 
the depth of first reef. 



427.— TO CLEAR MAST-HEADS. 

Clear mast-heads form a distinguishing mark of a ship-of-war. 
To make them so, the eyes of the rigging ought to be carefully 
placed, boused down a-midships by the mast, and beat down at 
the mast-head with a commander, and the shrouds set up in 
their places with care. The eyes of the stays, and the slings of 
the lower yards, ought also to be sent down over all, and nothing 
more should be on the lower mast-heads, observable to the eye. 

Over topmast-heads the ginn-blocks ought to go first, with a 
span lashing to the pendants, so as to take them close up to the 
trestle-trees ; rigging and stays, same as lower mast-heads — 
standing parts of ties, through a score in the heel of topgallant- 
mast, inside of the trestle-trees, and taken abaft the mast-head 
and lashed together close down on top of the stays. It would be 
well to put a quarter-seizing on each side, around both stay and 
tye. This does away with the not uncommon, but slovenly 
practice, of hitching the standing part of the topsail-tye over the 



234 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

rigging, and expending the end, by heaping it up with five or 
six turns half-way to the cap. 

Opinions are divided as to whether mast-heads painted white, 
or black, look the best. This is a matter of taste ; but it is a 
matter of certainty, that black shades and conceals, while white 
tends to display, what a seaman is proud of, the neatness and 
good order of his rigging, which should not be concealed by a 
white canvass mast-coat. 

The neatest mast-heads I ever saw were painted white, with the 
upper half of the top-rims and lower-half of the caps of the same 
color ; the lower half of the top rims, and the upper half of the 
caps, being black ; thus the large space of white was terminated 
and relieved above and below, by a neat, small, but distinct line 
of black. The topmast cross-trees, topmast-heads, and lower 
halves of topmast-caps were also white ; upper half of caps black. 
Topmasts scraped close up to the cross-trees, the eyes of the top- 
gallant and royal rigging covered with canvass, in place of ser- 
vice, and painted black — no paint above topmast-head caps, nor 
outside of the bowsprit-cap. With clear mast-heads, ought to be 
combined neat tops, wherein the ropes are flemished, and kept 
low and snug. 



428.— PLACING BELAYING-CLEATS IN TOPS. 

If the belaying-cleats for studding-sail tacks and halliards, top- 
gallant and royal lifts, and royal sheets, are placed on the cross- 
pieces, or carlines of tops, and not on the shrouds or mast-heads, 
the rigging there will look much neater. 



429.— MAKING SWABS. 

Old rope, called junk, is unlaid into yarns. Make a grommet 
with a good strand ; then take some of the yarns of the junk, 
take the twist or lay well out, and middle them in the grommet, 
and continue to fill up (to the size required), close to the grom- 
met ; clap on a good seizing of spun-yarn, and then, if wished, 
snake it ; sometimes the handle, or grommet, is made by splicing 
both ends together, the splice laying in the head of the swab. 
In making the grommet, the ends of the strands should not be 
cut off, but seized-in with the rest of the swab. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 235 

430.— STOWAGE OF SWABS. 

Swabs in the head are an eye-sore ; attention should be direct- 
ed to the contrivance of some other stow-hole for them, to which 
they should be rigorously confined, except when in use. 



431.— JUNK. 



Junk is supplied for the purpose of working up into various 
uses — such as into swabs, spun-yarn, knittle-stuff, lacings, seiz- 
ings, earings, gaskets, &c., &c, — all of which the supply in 
proper kind is generally inadequate. Good junk is got out of 
such materials as condemned cables — they having been necessa- 
rily made of the best stuff, and condemned before being much 
injured. Old messengers, old rigging, &c, make bad junk, not 
being condemned generally until much worn. 

Of the worst junk swabs and spun-yarn should be made; of 
the best, knittle and seizing-stuff, lacings, earings, &c. The seiz- 
ing-stuff is intended for blocks, ratlines, &c. ; the knittle stuff for 
making mats, as well as lacings and earings, for studding-sails, 
boats' sails, &c, and the spun-yarn for fitting and refitting. A sur- 
plus stock of all these ought constantly to be at hand, in store, 
for the purpose of refitting or replacing anything that may hap- 
pen to be carried away, without loss of time. In order to effect 
this, the watch on deck, or part of them, ought to be constantly 
at work about the junk, when circumstances permit, drawing, 
knotting, and balling of yarns, and assisting the ropemaker in 
laying up the above mentioned small stuff, either till the junk is 
exhausted, or till there is an ample stock on hand. 

Large junk, such as lengths of cables, should be unlaid before 
being put below, that it may admit of being snugly stowed. 



432.— MAKING MATS, AND CHAFING GEAR. 

The breadth of mats for lanyards of rigging, is determined by 
the size of the dead-eye, which the mat ought nearly to cover ; 
the length by the distance from the upper to the lower dead-eye. 
For lacing, small beckets should be worked in each corner and 
side. The mats on the foremost swifters of the lower rigging 
and backstays, should be longer than the others, on account of 
the foot and clew of the courses, when reefed and hauled aft, 
grinding against them high up ; or shifting mats for that especial 



236 

purpose should be kept, to put on at sea and take off in harbor. 
Thrum-mats are required for the paunch of lower topsail and 
topgallant yards, to prevent chafing. Those that follow are only- 
required at sea ; so that for neatness and economy, they may al- 
ways be taken off when going into harbor. 

To take the chafe off the rigging, when the lower yards are 
braced up, a large square hanging mat is required, thrummed on 
each side of the futtock-shrouds. This has a lanyard in each 
corner, and is clapped on thereby, with the upper half on the 
foremost futtock-shrouds, the lower half on the foremost swifters ; 
the middle part being in a line with the catharpens. 

On each side of the bunts of the courses, before all, a thrum- 
mat is requisite, to prevent the head of the sail chafing against 
the stay where they come in contact, when the yards are braced 
up. A breeches-mat is also required on the stay itself, for the 
same purpose. Small, square, neat mats, in the way of leech-lines, 
on each side, are also necessary, to prevent chafing. 

To prevent the topsail yards, when braced up, from chafing 
the foremost shrouds of the topmast rigging, a quarter mat abaft 
the yards on each side, is required. 

A thrum-mat is necessary on the horn of each foremast cross- 
tree, to prevent their wearing holes in the topgallant sails. 

For the backstays, in the wake of the lower yards, when braced 
up, mats or platting, or some such substitute, is necessary as a 
protection. Merchant vessels use Scotsmen [slips of wood so 
called] ; but for ships of war, I think leather, snugly stitched and 
kept on in harbor, as well as at sea, is the best. 

In a brig, the boom-mainsail will sometimes have a hole fretted 
in it, by chafing against the quarter boat's stanchions, or the be- 
laying cleats there ; these ought therefore to be protected by mats. 



433.— GASKETS. 

There is a great risk of gaskets marking and spoiling the looks 
of the sails, if not thoroughly dried before being used. 

The number of sea-gaskets must depend upon the size of the 
ship ; the smallest, however, such as a schooner or brig, requiring 
four for each side of lower yards, and the same for topsail yards. 
For topgallant and royal yards, half the number is enough ; for 
boom mainsail, six ; for jib and flying-jib, five each. 

Harbor-gaskets answer best with one end tapered and the 
other worked with an eye. By reeving and unreeving the taper- 
ed end through the eye, and round the jackstay, they are then 
easily put on or taken oft. Their length ought to be sufficient 
for a round turn round the sail and yard, with enough of end to 



OR YOCJNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 237 

tack in and secure between the sail and round turn abaft, or 
rather, on upper quarter abaft. Their breadth is a matter of 
fancy, but broad ones are generally preferred. They should be 
carefully placed upon the yards, as nearly as possible, at equal 
distances. 

Note. — If any long gaskets are used, half the number is 
sufficient. 



434.— SCRAPING AND GREASING MASTS. 

When the blacking of the rigging is dry, the masts ought to 
be scraped and cleaned, then greased. For the men to stand 
upon when scraping the lower masts, rig triangles of capstan 
bars, with whips to the mast-heads ; for hoisting and lowering, 
with the topmasts, handspikes answer instead of capstan bars, 
and the royal and topgallant masts may be managed from a bow- 
line in the end of a girt-line. or a span from shroud to shroud. 

To prevent spotting the deck, the deck-cloths ought to be spread, 
and some hands kept constantly sweeping up the shavings. 

The topgallant and royal yard-arms should not be neglected- 
The studding-sail booms, except when new, ought to have the 
least possible shaving taken off them by a carpenter, and then 
varnished. This does not injure them more than scraping, and 
keeps them infinitely smoother. 

Before laying on the grease, the captains of the tops, &c, 
should report that everything is scraped and ready, and the 
boatswain should examine. 

Note. — It is customary in some ships first to scrape masts, 
then tar down the rigging, and lastly paint; but. there is objec- 
tions to this, as the men are liable to daub the masts when tar- 
ring down, and they would have to be done over again. 

Studding-sail booms should never be greased, as they are liable 
to daub the sail. 



435.— MANNING YARDS. 

If previously aware that the yards are to be manned in the 
course of the day, clap on life-lines instantly ; the topgallant and 
royal yards are crossed in the morning, the hands laying out and 
in together ; then square yards. 



238 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Fewer men being required for manning yards than furling 
sails, those required for the former may be easily sized and se- 
lected from among the latter, keeping them always on their re- 
spective yards — the tallest outside. 

The yard-arm men extend their outside arms straight, holding 
on by the studding-sail halliards, whilst they clap their inner arms 
over the life-lines, holding it fast under the arm-pit ; the next 
man in the same way extends his outer arm, and grapples the 
shoulder of the yard-arm man ; then passes his inner arm over 
the life-line, clasping it under his arm-pit, and so on to the bunt. 

The appearance of the boat, at whatever distance it may be, 
is the customary signal for manning yards ; yet it would be at 
times a preferable rule to endeavor to judge of the distance, and 
act so that the men may not be more than ten minutes or a 
quarter of an hour aloft. 

The men on the yards ought to face the boat ; that is, when 
the boat is abaft the beam, they ought to face aft ; when before 
the beam, forward : but in a ship, when the commodore* ascends 
the side, the hand on the cross-jack and mizen-topsail yards 
ought to face forward — all others as before, aft. 



436.— MAN ROPES— (SIDE). 

If side or man-ropes be covered with canvass or baize, the 
stitches should be taken through the strands of the rope, to pre- 
vent the covering getting out of its place, and puckering; and 
to take the chafe or nip in the wake of the eye-bolt, through 
which they reeve, a small bit of leather should be neatly stitch- 
ed on. 

The handsomest and most durable man-ropes are those en- 
tirely pointed over with neat, small line. The job is a tedious 
one, but worth the expense and trouble. 



437.— SPARE DEAD-EYES. 

A good plan for spare dead-eyes of rigging is to have them in 
two pieces, and with small bolts fixing them together, so that in 
the event of carrying one away, it can be easily replaced, with- 
out having to take chain, plate and all to a smiths' shop. 



* Or the personage whom it is intended to honor. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 239 



438.— HIDE HOPE, 



Where there is much and continued friction, or a short nip, 
hide rope is found to have great advantage over hemp ; some 
say thirty per cent. Thus it is good for wheel-ropes, whip for 
hatctnvay, topsail-ties, trusses, topgallant and royal sheets and 
yard ropes, parrels, jib-pendants, lacings, reef-pendants and lash 
ing, studding-sail tacks and halliards. 

For preservation above deck, hide rope should have a coating' 
of two parts of grease and one of tar ; below deck, a coat of 
neats' foot oil. When not wanted, such as wheel-ropes in har- 
bor, it should be kept under cover. 

Note. — Hide rope is now allowed by regulation for tailing all 
sheets, also for ties, truss, pendants, &c, dec. (See rigging table.) 



439.— HAWSE-HOLE WINDSAIL. 

A windsail to carry the great draught of the hawse-holes down 
into the holds, &c., is a very useful thing, though not common. 



440.— FIGHTING- LADDERS. 

Some ships have fighting ladders of rope always set up, ready, 
and the wooden ones for common use placed against them. 

Note. — Iron Jacob's-ladders fitted amidships in hatchways are 
very useful in the morning when washing decks, or at quarters, 
when the wooden ladders are unshipped. 



441.— HAWSE BUCKLERS. 

Bucklers are of two sorts ; half-bucklers, shipped when the 
cables are bent, and blind-bucklers when they are unbent. The 
object of the first is to prevent shipping water through the hawse- 
holes, while the cables are bent, and are put on, after filling 
with shakings the hawse-hole through which the cable runs ; 
they are secured by upright, iron bars, slipping on and off upon 
grooves above and below. 



240 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

Blind-bucklers are put on after a plug (called hawse-plug, of 
the size of the hawse-hole) has been thrust in. They are secured 
the same way as the half-bucklers. 

When the cables are ordered to be clear for running, the half- 
bucklers should be unshipped. 

Note. — Half-bucklers are made with a score to fit the cable. 



442.— MAKING FAST A WARP TO A VESSEL. 

The best place for making a warp fast to, is the bitts, after pass- 
ing through the spare hawse-hole : there it will not interfere with 
the side or paint work ; is perfectly clear, quite secure, and ready 
to let go in an instant. If made fast to the cables, which is next 
best, it is more difficult to let go. 



443.— FITTING QUARTER BOATS' GRIPES 

Boats' gripes are made with spun-yarn or small rope, as a 
sword-mat : one end is secured round the davit -head, the other, 
when the boat is up, passed under her bottom, and secured in 
the chains with a lashing. 



444.— FITTING GIGS' SLINGS. 

Gigs' slings are made as sword mats. When sufficient is made 
to take the boat's bottom and clear the gunwales, the spun-yarn, 
or rope between each part, is fitted as a stopper or selvagee, par- 
celed and served over, and a thimble seized in the bight, whicl 
the tackles hook to. The stretches, made of wood, are put be- 
tween both parts of the slings, long enough to keep them two or 
three inches off the gunwale. 

For the span, measure the length from the after ring-bolts to 
the slings ; when in their place, leave six inches for splicing, and 
cut the rope ; measure from the after-slings to the fore ones, 
leaving about six inches and cut ; measure from the fore-slings 
to the ring-bolt in the stern and cut ; splice a hook and thimble 
in the ends, the other ends splice together, forming two cut splices, 
large enough to go over the thimbles in the slings, and seize 
them in their place. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



241 



Note. — Some prefer artificial eyes worked in the ends of the 
slings, to go over the end of the stretcher ; this is not so safe. 



445.— SCRUBBING A BOAT'S BOTTOM, ON LEAVING 

HARBOR 

It frequently happens in preparing for sea, a lai£<i boat's bot- 
tom, such as a launch, or any other boom boat, require:" cleaning, 
and there happens to be no place at hand to haul her up on 
shore, in preference to hoisting her up and doing it aboard, and 
causing a great muss on deck ; hoist her out of the water by 
the cat, and another tackle to the bowsprit, and scrub her bottom 
from another boat (or catamaran). 



446.— CARRYING LIGHT BOATS ON LAND. 

The best way to cary a boat, is to upset her, and let the men. 
with their jackets on their shoulders, (or some such protection 
against the sharp pressure of the gunwale,) stand under and 
take the gunwales on each side on their shoulders ; some hands 
may also be advantageously placed in amidships under the 
thwarts. 




16 



242 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



447.— MISCELLANEOUS NOTES ON WORKING 
BOATS. 




If a boat be crank, or if it be wished in working to windward 
to accelerate speed, all hands should sit down in the bottom of 
the boat. If in haste, working to windward, pull the weather oars. 

A boat with only one sail, such as a lug, should never attempt 
beating to windward, except when necessary to give the crew a 
spell. 

Let no one ever sit on the gunwale, but accustom the crew to 
sit in their places, and to make and shorten sail without stirring 
from their seats. Besides the due execution of this mauoeuvre, 
the safety of the boat is much implicated in the degree of atten- 
tion paid to this rule. 

In taking in a lug sail, lower the halliards and haul down on 
the weather-leach. 

Note-— Keep boats out of the water as much as possible. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



243 



448.— DUTIES OF BOATS' CREWS. 




A SHIP OF WAR'S LAUNCH. 

Nothing sooner indicates the order and discipline ol a vessel 
of war, than the clean state and efficient condition of the boats, 
together with the personal appearance of their crews. In this par- 
ticular, sufficient care is not always observed in the service ; in 
well regulated ships, the coxswains are compelled to report to 
the senior lieutenant the state of their respective boats, and in 
the morning to ascertain from the officer of the boat, the man- 
ner he may require the crews to be dressed for the day &c, &c. 



449.— BOATS GOING ON DISTANT SERVICE. 



Memoranda of articles required for distant service — viz. : spy- 
glass, compass, pencil and paper, chart, watch, lead and line, 
tinder-box, grapnel and rope, stern-fast, hammer, nails, spike for 
guns, spare rope, (size of boat's gear,) spare tiller, spare oars, blue- 
lights, lanterns and candles, casks or kegs for water, arm-chest, 
flints, turn-screw, towing-nets, pea-coats, muffling for oars, fish- 



244 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

ing-lines, iron pot, fuel, each man a knife, an axe, a maul, a crow- 
bar, needles, twine, colors, rations for the boat's crew at discretion. 



450.— BOATS UNDER SAIL. 




A SHIP OF WAR'S CUTTER. 

Care should be taken that the halliards be coiled up clear for 
running, that the sheets be not belayed, and that the crew, in 
shortening sail to a squall, do not shift their seats, or, as is too 
common a custom, stand upon the thwarts to gather in the shak- 
ing sail ; in lowering a lug, or lateen sail, haul down alone on 
the luff, (the fore-leech ;) the after one better be left untouched. 

Coxswains should also be cautioned of the danger of letting 
go the helm. This is often inadvertently done wrong — some- 
times to secure the heel of the bumkin, or to get a pull of the 
main or mizen-sheet. By this thoughtless practice, boats are 
liable to fly up in the wind, the sails to be taken aback, be diffi- 
cult to lower, and eventually to cant over and capsize to wind- 
ward. 



451.— GIVING A ROPE TO A BOAT. 

When a boat from a lee-tide, or running-sea, requires from the 
ship the aid of a rope, care must be taken that the tow-line be 
passed as far forward as possible. The position of the fore-chan- 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT, 245 

nels is too far aft, and causes too short a scope. The tow-line 
should be passed from the cat-head, with a slip-rope to the crown 
of the spare or sheet-anchor, which, if slacked when the bowman 
secures the tow-line, the boat will ride with a good scope, and 
with comparative ease. 

Caution. — The tow-line should never be made fast to the ring 
in the bow of the boat ; it should be passed through the ring by 
way of a fair-leader, and eventually secured to the bottom of the 
boat or thwart. 

Mooring boats. — Boats are best moored at the guess-swarp- 
boom. In this position they ride under the eye of the officer of 
the deck, and are less liable to be damaged than when secured 
alongside, or moored astern. 

Boat-keepers, unless especially called to assist in the execution 
of urgent or heavy service, should never be permitted to leave 
their boats. 



452.— CROSSING A BAR WITH SURF, IN BOATS. 

As a boat will not rise over surf as over an unbroken wave, 
but on the contrary, the surf boils over and into the boat, the 
less surface there is presented, and the higher it is out of the 
water, the better. For this reason a boat ought to be kept stem 
on, or right before it, when the heaviest waves approach, waiting 
till they are past, to pursue her way edgeways across the bar. 

Stem on is the safest, the smallest surface and the strongest 
and highest part of the boat being in that way presented to the 
surf, while the rudder and oars possess sufficient power to main- 
tain the position assumed. Right before it has the disadvantage 
of lowness of stern, which makes pooping more likely than tak- 
ing water over the bows — protracted exposure to the wave, (for 
you must go along with it,) and the tendency to gripe and 
broach-to, which from the rudder being lifted and left out of the 
water, and rendered useless as soon as the broken wave passes it, 
is often irresistible and fatal, and can only be counteracted by 
the skill and steadiness of the crew, in steering the boat by their 
oars until the rudder comes again into play. If a boat broaches- 
to in these circumstances, she will most likely fill, and instantly 
upset, in which case, I believe the best plan is to cling to the 
boat (or some of her gear), and endeavor to right her again, if 
possible. 



246 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



453.— HAULING UP BOATS. 

A gig's crew may haul up their boat, but for all other boats, it 
requires at least double the number of their crews, assisted by 
rollers and tackles. 

A line-of-battle-ship's launch may be hauled up by flve-and- 
forty hands, in the following manner : run her bow on to the 
beach, and let a few hands on each quarter keep her in that 
position, by setting their oars against the ground ; next sweep 
her with a hawser, and guy it up at the stern to a proper height 
by several turns of the painter; to this hawser hook on the 
double block of a long tackle, the other end, or single block being 
overhauled to a proper length, and made fast as most convenient. 

Pass the bight of another hawser round the stern post, and 
having guyed it up on each side to the main thwart, there hook 
on, on each side, a quarter tackle also, overhauled to a proper 
length, and hooked on at the other end, as most convenient ; 
man these with the remaining hands : then having placed rollers 
in succession to take the boat's fore-foot and keel, proceed to haul 
away. When up, the loose thwarts set against the ground and 
wash streak will keep her upright. Smaller boats do not require 
quarter tackles ; a few hands on the quarters to keep them up- 
right, answer the purpose. Heavy boats especially should not be 
turned bottom up, it strains them so much. Tire loose thwarts 
might be placed for the rollers to roll on, if the ground is soft. 



454.— LOWERING BOATS. 

On lowering boats from the quarter or stern, care must be 
taken that the moment the boat touches the water, the after 
tackles be quickly unhooked from the slings or ring bolts. If in 
a tide's way the precaution be not observed, the probability is, 
the boat will immediately fill, and the men in the boat be exposed 
to imminent peril. 



455.— TURNING UP THE HANDS. 

In calling up the hands, or calling the crew to the performance 
of their duties, the boatswain too often indulges in piercing pipes, 
and drawling tones of superfluous length. Boatswains have a 
singular propensity to demonstrate the soundness of their lungs, 
by an endless protraction of a note on their piercing pipes. They 
should not be so fond of supplying the place of sea birds. This 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 247 

is not the worst feature in their taste ; for when at last they 
utter the required summons, they give it forth in tones so drawl- 
ing, that the first words are often forgotten before the last are out. 

Note. — A-l-1 h-a-n-d-s a-b-o-u-t - s-h-i-p. — This lengthy sum- 
mons, and a longer- winded whistle, and each pipe and phrase 
three times repeated by the boatswain and his mates, the ship 
may be ashore before the leader of the band is convinced how 
dearly he has paid for his whistle. 



456.— INSPECTION OF RIGGING— MORNING AND 
EVENING. 

In the morning the boatswain will be required to inspect as 
early as possible the state and condition of the standing and run- 
ning rigging, and to report the result of his examination to the 
officer of the morning watch. He should be particularly careful 
to see that the ratlines of the rigging are properly secure ; that 
the topsail sheet service is not chafed, and that all the quarter 
and paunch mats are properly placed. 

Evening. — The boatswain should inspect at evening quarters 
all the rigging, stoppers and necessary gear required upon the 
occasion of clearing for action ; so that in the event of being 
surprised by an enemy at night, such gear may be placed at hand 
for immediate use. He should also see that the toggles fitted to 
the lower and topsail braces, be securely seized to their respective 
parts. 



457.— INSPECTION OF STOWED ANCHORS— (AT SEA) 

In boisterous weather, and particularly if the ship be laboring 
or lurching heavily, the boatswain should inspect the several 
anchors, and see that they are securely stowed. In small vessels, 
where anchors, in a heavy sea, are constantly buried under water, 
it is necessary to take the precaution of passing preventer stocks 
and shank lashings. The quarter boats should also be inspected, 
and the boatswain should report to the officer of the watch the 
result of such inspection. 



248 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



458.— INSPECTION OF BOATS— (AT SEA). 

Every evening after sunset, the boatswain will be required to 
inspect the boats on the booms, to see that they be perfectly clear, 
and that their sling-spans be severally hooked for hoisting out. 
In tropical climates it is strongly recommended to uncover the 
boats after the sun has set, in order that they may benefit by the 
dew and air. Each cover should be made up and placed in the 
bow of the boat. 



459.— GAMMONING THE BOWSPRIT. 

The better way to gammon the bowsprit in a large ship, is to 
get a caulker's stage under the bows, fore and aft, under the 
bowsprit ; secure one end snug to the stern, then get a stout tackle 
from the extreme end of the bowsprit ; overhaul down and sling 
the outer end of the stage ; hook on your tackle to the slings, 
lead your fall down on the stage ; send the men down, and bouse 
well taut, so as to get the weight of the stage as much as possi- 
ble on the bowsprit. Now your stage being secured, you can 
proceed to gammon your bowsprit. 

Get two stout luff-tackles on the stage and voil block ; then 
get a span around the inner end of the stage to hook your voil 
block to ; having your voil hooked, clinch your gammoning round 
your bowsprit with a running clinch or a running eye; jam your 
turn well round the bowsprit, then reeve down through the gam- 
moning hole up over the bowsprit, then pass your end down 
through the scuttle on to the stage ; reeve it through the voil 
blocks on the stage ; clap on your luffs, and bouse away, leading 
your fall fore and aft the stage. 

Note. — Leading your fall in this way has a tendency to lift up 
the inner end of the stage, and of course your pulling down, and 
the weight of the stage on the gammoning, must certainly bring 
the bowsprit snug down in its bed, and set your gammoning up 
very taut. Having got your first turn taut, rack it well ; pass 
another, and so on until you fill up your gammoning hole, 
jamming your last turn under all parts of the gammoning on 
the opposite side of the bowsprit from the way you have passed 
your gammoning. 

When you are setting up your gammoning, two men ought to 
attend with commanders, to beat it solid round the bowsprit. 

When they are setting up, some people use a great deal of tar 
and slush on gammoning, but the less the better. A piece of 
good leather under your gammoning is much better than tarred 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 249 

parceling ; and when your gammoning is passed, turn your 
leather over aft and nail it down to the bowsprit. Your gam- 
moning ought to be strapped with large strands in the room of 
rope, it being much softer and better to the gammoning, and all 
well covered to protect it from the weather. If you use parcel- 
ing, let it be dry and new, with a coat of tar over all when com- 
pleted. 



460.— PRECAUTION IN REEVING RUNNING-RIGGING. 

In reeving running-rigging, the boatswain is recommended not 
to cut and reeve, but on the contrary, to reeve and cut. 

However correct the rigging list may appear, there will be 
always found a difference of a few fathoms in rope ; and it so 
happens that the difference is invariably on the wrong side, the 
allowance being said to be shorter than the measurement per rope. 

Note. — It were much to be desired that the running-rigging, 
previous to reeving, should be stretched to the capstan. The 
old practice of taking the end through the coil will in some 
measure relieve the rope of many of its kinks, but taking the 
mere turns out of a rope is not sufficient to facilitate its run 
through the blocks. Such ropes as topsail-sheets, topgallant-sheets 
and braces, and jib and staysail-halliards, should be all stretched 
before they are rove in their respective blocks. Moreover, if 
there be any time more than another that a vessel will require 
her ropes to run freely, it is upon the occasion of her first leav- 
ing port, with a green and undisciplined crew. 



461. —TOPSAIL TYES. 

Topsail tyes are now rove in some ships sufficiently long to 
send the yards down with, and when not wanted for that pur- 
pose, the surplus ends pertaining to the standing parts secured to 
the mast-head. 

In some ships a strop and thimble are fitted under the rigging, 
or a score cut in the heel of ihe topgallant-mast for the purpose 
of reeving through the standing part of the tye, which is secured 
breeching-fashion with two strong seizings, and then stopped 
down the topmast rigging. 

In shifting yards, this method will be found to save much time 
and trouble ; the surplus end will also answer to sling the top- 
sail-yard with, when going into action. 



250 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 

462.— PRECAUTION IN BLACKING THE RIGGING. 

In blacking the rigging, the first precaution that should be 
taken by the boatswain, is to cover with old canvass, or hammocks, 
the lower mast-heads, and particularly the caps. The blacking 
should be put on hot. Thin tar, with a certain portion of lamp- 
lack, hot salt-water, whisky, and a little litharge mixed together, 
nake an admirable mixture for blacking the rigging. 

It is not recommended to blacken the royal and topgallant rig- 
ging aloft j this rigging may be previously blackened and triced 
up to dry. 



463.— FORE AND MAIN BUNTLINES. 

The buntlines of the courses are frequently found to jam aloft, 
and when rove on the bight, and led forward, constantly to be- 
come cable-laid. Buntlines will be found to lead fairer, and to 
haul the sails higher up, by fitting them after the following 
method. 

In the fore part of the top between the trestle-trees, cut two 
holes ; into these holes insert leaden pipes, backstay-fall fashion ; 
hook to the foremost bolt, on each side of the lower cap, a block, 
through which each buntline-leg is to be rove ; take each through 
the holes cut in the top, and pass them down before all, and tog- 
gle them to the foot of the sail, the hauling part to lead aft 
through the lubber's hole, and a block turned in at a proper dis- 
tance, to allow the after leg to act the part of a pendant. 

Through this block a whip purchase is rove ; by this method the 
buntlines will be always kept clear, and they will be found, on 
letting go the whips, to overhaul themselves. In port, when the 
ship is moored, the buntline-blocks, with the ropes rove, may be 
unhooked from the bolts in the cap, and placed in the top, imme- 
diately over the holes through which the foremost legs are rove in, 
and can be hooked in a moment, when wanted. 



464.— TOPGALLANT MAST ROPES. 

For expedition the mast-rope rove upon the bight, with lizards 
taken through the royal sheave, must be preferred to the old 
method of Adding masts, by the double operation of two mast 
ropes, namely the long and the short. If delay is desired, or in 
other words, people prefer going the longest way to w^ork, the 
short mast-rope must be put in requisition . The mast rope, how- 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 251 

ever, rove upon the bight with lizards, is better calculated for 
harbor practice than for sea service. The mast rope which is 
here recommended is applicable to every purpose, may be fitted 
as follows : The rope is rove as usual, stopped to the topgallant 
mast-head, and royal sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the 
upper stop to hitch to the bolt in the cap before cutting the stops. 
To prevent the ropes from slipping, rack both parts together 
above the sheave-hole in the heel of the mast. 



465.— FUTTOCK SHROUDS. 

In all vessels of war, futtock shrouds are too long. Ships 
whose lower yards are slung high, and braced sharply up, have 
their futtock shrouds considerably shorter than the established 
length. 



466.— TOPS AND HALF TOPS. 

Many seamen affect to disapprove of half tops, asserting that 
two halves can never be so well secured as the whole. This is 
mere prejudice ; for practical purposes a half top must be always 
preferred, especially in large ships. 



467.— STRIKING OR HOUSING TOPMASTS. 

The absence of forethought, or a little practical precaution on 
the part of the boatswain and petty officers, is sometimes the 
cause of this operation being one of no little labor. When the 
hands are turned up, strike topmasts. The lanyards of the after 
rigging, back-stays and topmast-rigging should be severally slack- 
ed, whilst the jib-stay, fore-topmast-staysail-halliards, topsail-hal- 
liards, topsail lifts, reef-tackles and topgallant-sheets ought to be 
well overhauled. Steady hands should be placed to attend the 
spring and standing-stays. 

When blowing hard, head-to-wind, topmasts constantly bend in 
the cap, from the circumstance of letting go and overhauling too 
much of the stays. 

Should there be any unusual strain on the top-tackle-pendants, 
it is well to " stand-fast" the falls for a few seconds, in order that 
the people aloft may examine the vicinity of the trestle -trees ; 
and the mast may produce sufficient strain to carry away the 



252 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

top-tackle-falls, if not the pendants. This precaution is most 
particularly directed during periods of striking topmasts in the 
dark. 

When the masts are struck, they should be kept on the right 
slue, and their heels securely lashed, in the event of the ship 
parting, or it becomes necessary to set close-reefed-topsails, with 
the mast down. The practice of sheep-shanking back-stays is not 
recommended ; the back-stays may be set up through the medium 
of good luff-tackles, and by such means the mast may be rendered 
sufficiently secure to support the strain of a close-reefed-topsail. 



468.— SWAYING UP TOPMASTS. 

In performing this heavy operation, every care should be taken 
to overhaul well, and to see that such of the standing and run- 
ning-rigging are perfectly clear, which are calculated to impede 
the ascent of the masts. 

The topsail-lifts, topsail-tyes, reef-tackles, jib and staysail-hal- 
liards should be well overhauled below and aloft, and the lan- 
yards of the topmast-rigging and back-stays be got ready for set- 
ting up, the moment the mast is fidded and stayed. The fore- 
castle men should have luffs led along the bowsprit, and tackles 
up and down the foremast ready for staying the fore and main- 
topmasts. No topmast should be fidded by a single top-tackle- 
pendant. It is true that small vessels are not allowed a second 
pendant, but such ships should reeve a hawser through the dead 
sheave for the purpose of acting the part of a preventer, in the 
event of the top-tackle-fall parting. The same precaution should 
be taken with respect to the position of the cross-trees overhead 
as has been already mentioned under the head of rigging top- 
masts. 

Note. — Such ships should be prepared with stoppers, with two 
tails and a toggle, so as to clap on the top-tackle-pendants about 
a foot abaft, and under the top-block hooked to the cap. 

Topmasts ascend comparatively easy until the fid-hole comes 
within six inches of the trestle-trees ; then a heavy strain is 
brought upon the pendants, particularly upon the falls. 



469.— UNMOORING. 

It frequently occurs in unmooring vessels of war that the 
veering-cable is not sufficiently veered. In weighing the first 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 253 

anchor, a considerable strain has been felt at the capstan, in con- 
sequence of the ship not being permitted to bring the cable up 
and down. It is recommended to veer three or four fathoms af- 
ter the cable is said to be up and down. This can do no harm ; 
it will put the whole strain of the ship on the anchor ; that is, 
in weighing, and thereby facilitate tripping it. 



470.— REEF LINES TO THE TOPSAILS. 

Few ships in the service are fitted with these lines. In some 
ships they are attached. In reefing topsails, when blowing fresh 
and particularly when steering a course, or going large, reef- 
lines assist materially to spill the sail and enable the men on 
the yards to get hold of the points, which are difficult to reach 
when the canvass is bellying to the breeze. 

Reef-lines are thus fitted : — Take a piece of small rope, splice 
one end into an eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, seize it around 
the neck of one of the first. reef-points, on the foreside of the sail, 
in a straight line with the eyelet-hole, leaving enough slack to 
prevent the sail girting ; then seize it under to the second, then 
the third reef ; splice an eye in the end and seize it to the neck 
of a close-reef point. In large ships there should be three reef- 
lines on each yard-arm ; in small vessels two will be sufficient. 



471.— REEFING COURSES. 

To execute this service with security as well as with celerity, 
the reef-earings should be formed of rope sufficiently strong to 
bear being boused out by the boom-jiggers ; by this method the 
inner turns of small rope may be passed with facility. 

The outer earing should be led through a block or cheek, fit- 
ted for the purpose ; this earing, it must be remembered, is not 
to be considered as a substitute for the reef-pendant ; it should 
also be hooked and hauled out by a separate tackle. It is the 
general custom now, to fit all reef-earings on the bight, and pass 
on both ends. 



254 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

472.— TOPGALLANT-MASTS STRUCK. 

When topgallant-masts are struck, care should be taken that 
a small mat be placed between the topmast and the heel of the 
topgallant-mast ; proper heel lashings should also be fitted for 
the purpose of securing the latter. 



473.— HAILING ALOFT. 

Hailing aloft, in well regulated ships, is much repressed by the 
boatswain ; for bluster is a general indication of but little work, 
or the truth of the adage, " All noise and no work" 



474.— PROPORTIONS FOR CABLES— {Hemp). 

The sheet and bower-cable, one inch in circumference for 
every two feet of beam. The stream-cable and messenger, two- 
thirds of the sheet or bower chain-cables, which are used for 
bowers ; an allowance is made of one eighth of an inch for the 
diameter of the wire of the links, for every inch of circumference 
of the hemp-cables. The same rule applies in all cases where 
iron rigging is substituted for hemp. 

Note. — Cable-yarns are spun two-fifths longer than the cable 
for which they are intended. The yarns for one hundred and 
twenty fathoms of cable, must be two hundred fathoms long ; for 
a shroud-laid rope the yarns are one-third longer — i. e., ninety, 
for sixty fathoms. (/See table of cables.) 



475.— PROPORTIONS FOR ANCHORS. 

For the sheet and bower-anchors, take two-thirds the number 
of feet which the ship draws with all her stores, &c, on board, 
and add it to the breadth of beam, allowing one hundred-weight 
for every foot. The stream-anchor one third of the sheet or 
bower. 

For ships smaller than frigates, an allowance of five hundred 
weight for every hundred tons burthen, should be made for sheet 
and bower-anchors. 




Representation of a Temporary Rnddei 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 255 

In stocking an anchor, add together the length of the shank, 
and half the round of the ring, for the length of the stock. The 
stock is as many inches in thickness in the middle, as the shank 
is long in feet, and is tapered to half the size at the end. In 
puddening an anchor ring, cut the lengths three times the round 
of the ring. 

Note. — This anchor is for hemp-cables ; if for chain-cables, the 
length of shank may be reduced one fourth, but not in weight. 
(See allowance table.) 



476.— WHAT LENGTH IS NECESSARY TO FORM 
A CLINCH. 

In bending cables, the length of rope necessary to form a 
clinch, is equal to the length of the shank of the anchor. 



477.— REFERENCES TO SKETCH OF TEMPORARY 

RUDDER. 

A. A piece of oak fitted with iron pintles, before launching or 
while in dock, and supplied to the ship when going to sea ; 

B. A piece for the back, and provided for the same ; 

C. A spare topmast, cut off clear of the sheave-hole ; a jib- 
boom might do, of the new regulation. 

D. Iron bolts ; 

E. Chocks ; 

F. Iron-pig ballast (if necessary) ; 

G. Eye-bolt in quarter-deck beam, to be put in when required; 
H. Rope-guys (through the heel-chock E), to assist in hang- 
ing the rudder. [See sketch of temporary rudder.) 



47 8.— TO SPLICE AN OLD CABLE TO A NEW ONE. 

Take the old one to a rope-Avalk, unlay the strands, and splice 
them to the strands of the new one with long splices, after which 
lay up the latter. It can be done in another way, but it requires 
a good and neat marling spike-sailor to do it. 



256 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



479.— STRIP SHIP 

Begin aloft, and go down regularly, sending down by a reverse 
operation. Commence with the topgallant and royal-rigging, 
and rig in the flying-jib-boom : next send down topsail and low- 
er yards, topmast-caps ; unrig the topmasts, get in the jib-boom 
and spritsail-yards ; get off lower caps, tops and rigging ; unrig 
the bowsprit, and unrig all gaffs, booms and davits. 

Note. — Tally and strop-up rigging as fast as unrove and sent 
down. 



480.— PROPORTIONS OP SPARS FOR MERCHANT 
SHIPS, LENGTH OF SPARS, &c., &c. 

Main-mast equal to two-and-a-half times the ship's beam. 

Fore-mast equal to eight-ninths the main-mast. 

Mizen-mast equal to five-sixths of the main-mast. 

Bowsprit two-thirds of the main-mast, one-third of which 
ought to be in-board. 

Main-topmast three-fifths of the main-mast. 

Main- topgallant-mast one-half of the main-topmast, exclusive 
of the pole, which is generally one-half the length of the top- 
gallant-mast or a little longer. 

Fore-topmast three-fifths of the foremast. 

Fore-topgallant-mast one-half the length of the fore-topmast, 
exclusive of the pole, which is half the length of the topgallant 
mast. 

Mizen-topmast three-fifths of the mizen-mast. 

Mizen- topgallant-mast one-half the length of the mizen-top- 
mast, and the pole one half the length of the topgallant-mast. 

Jib-boom the length of the bowsprit, two-thirds of which length 
is rigged without the bowsprit-cap. 

Main-yard twice the ship's extreme breadth. 

Main-topsail-yard two-thirds of main-yard. 

Main-topgallant-yard two-thirds of main-topsail-yard. 

Fore-yard seven-eighths of main-yard. 

Fore-topsail-yard two-thirds of fore-yard. 

Fore-topgallant-yard two-thirds of the fore-topsail-yard. 

Royal-yards two-thirds the length of the respective topgallant 
yards. 

Cross-jack-yard same length of main-topsail-yard. 

Mizen-topsail-yards the same length of the main-topgallant- 
yard. 

Mizen-topgallant-yard two-thirds of mizen-topsail-yard. 

Spritsail-yards five-sixths of the fore-topsail-yard. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 257 

Remark. — Some have the spritsail-yard the length of the fore- 
topsail-yard, or nearly so ; if it should be much shorter, the jib- 
sheets will chafe against the spritsail-braces. 

Spanker boom the length of the main-topsail-yard ; it is how- 
ever made sometimes longer, and sometimes snorter, according 
to fancy. Mizen-gaff two-thirds of the spanker-boom — liable to 
the same variation. Topsail yard-arms to be long enough to 
haul out close-reef-earing. 



481.— THICKNESS OF SPARS— MASTS. 

• 
It has been customary to allow for every three feet of the 
main-mast's length, one inch of the diameter in the partners ; 
nine-tenths of an inch in diameter in the middle, between the 
partners and the extremity of the head, and two-thirds under 
the hounds, and all other masts in the same proportion ; and 
with these proportions masts have been usually made : I am 
however of opinion that one-quarter of an inch to the foot is 
much better. 



482.— YARDS. 

For every four feet of their length, allow one inch of diameter 
in the slings, and half that diameter within the squares at the 
yard-arm. 



483.— DISTANCE FOR PLACING LOWER MASTS, 
in vessels of two masts. 

Foremasts one-seventh the length of spar-deck from forward. 
Main two and five-sevenths as far from the foremast. 

Note. — The above rule is not to be considered proper for all 
vessels; their places must be governed by the form of the vessel. 



484.— RULE FOR PLACING MASTS IN A SHIP. 

Take the ship's length from the after part of the stem to the 
fore part of the stern-post, and divide it into sevenths. Place the 
foremast one-seventh of this length from the stem, the main- 
mast three-sevenths from the fore-mast, the mizen and stern-post. 
17 



258 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

This rule is for a full-built ship ; it must therefore be varied 
when applied to vessels that are sharp, and the stem and stern 
posts of which rake ; the foremast must accordingly be placed 
farther aft, the mizen-mast farther forward, and the distance be- 
tween the masts proportionably regulated. 





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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 259 



486.— TO FIND THE TONNAGE OF A VESSEL, BY 
THE UNITED STATES' MEASUREMENT. 

The length is taken from the fore part of the main stern, to the 
after part of the stern-post. The beam is measured at the ex- 
treme breadth to the outside of the bends ; three-fifths this beam 
is taken off the length, before the calculation is made. For a 
double— decked vessel, half the breadth of beam, is called the 
depth of hold, and for a single-deck it is the same, except that 
the hold is measured at the fore part of the hatchway, from the 
deck down to the ceiling alongside the keelson. 

To proceed on in this calculation, after all the allowances have 
been made, the length must be multiplied by the breadth, and 
the product by the depth of the hold ; then divide the last product 
by 95, and the quotient will give the tonnage required. 

Formerly the British divided by 94, both for merchant vessels, 
and ships of war ; but I have been informed they now divide by 
100, which is the reason that they make our ships' tonnage less 
than we do. 

Notes on the tonnage of a vessel. — The ship-carpenters' ton- 
nage in Philadelphia differs from the United States' measurement. 

A rule staff is laid under the keel, projecting ; a line is plumbed 
from the upper part of the stern to the rule staff; the keel is 
measured from its after part to the plumb line, and including the 
rule staff, this is called the length of keel straight rabbit. The 
beam is measured from skin to skin, on the inside ; three-fifths 
of the beam is taken off the keel straight rabbit, for the length, 
and the calculation, in other respects, is the same as in the United 
States' measurement ; so that the carpenters' tonnage in Phila- 
delphia will be less, according to the rake of the stern-post, &c. 

The dead rise of a vessel is found by having a staff half the 
beam from skin to skin, at the extreme breadth, which staff is 
laid even across on the ceiling of the fore part of the main hatch- 
way. One of the timber boards being taken up, a line is let fall 
from the staff to the skin alongside the keelson, and what it 
measures is the vessels dead rise ; so that in order to know how 
sharp a vessel is, it is customary to ask how much dead-rise she 



487.— STEPPING AND BAKING LOWER MASTS. 

Foremasts of all ships should be stepped plumb, or perpendic- 
ular, to a water-line. All mainmasts should rake one inch to 
every four feet above deck, and all mizen-masts should rake one 
inch to every three feet above deck. All bowsprits should be 



260 THE K EDGE- ANCHOR; 

stepped in a direct line, drawn from the step of the mainmast to 
the lower part of the bowsprit bed ; this line answers for the lower 
part of the bowsprit. 

It has been the opinion of many sea-officers, that a mast, by 
raking, will aid a ship in sailing ; but it has been satisfactorily 
proved, that it has the contrary effect : for instance, a ship that 
has her masts perpendicular only, has to bear them in two posi- 
tions ; the one on the step, and the other on the side of support ; 
her yards hang free, brace easy, and bear no strain against them ; 
whereas a ship with her masts raking, has to bear them in three 
positions — the one on the step, one on the side of support, and 
the other, which is very great, on the fore and aft stays ; her 
yards also hang very heavy against the mast, which adds also 
to the fore support. This must cause a great check in the pro- 
gressive movements in the ship. A sharp vessel or ship, with a 
lean harping, by raking her masts, frequently eases her in pitch- 
ing, but never adds to her sailing, the wind having less power on 
her sails, and the principal reason why a ship's main and mizen 
masts, should rake a little from her foremast is, that by separat- 
ing the masts in this way, the wind has a better chance of ef- 
fecting its full power on all the sails, and of striking that part of 
them, which otherwise would be of little or no advantage to the 



488.— MOORING. 

It has been argued and proved, that if ships have room to lay 
at single anchor with chain-cables, they are more safe than when 
moored. The following example is given as an illustration. 

Let A be moored with 75 fathoms s. e. and n. w. and B be at 
single anchor, with the same scope of chain ; a gale commences 
from the s. w. ; the strain on each of A's cables is double the 
strain on B's. 

It blows harder, and B lets go her other bower, and veers 150 
fathoms on the first, and 75 on the second cable. A also veers 
150 fathoms on both cables, but B still keeps her advantage, the 
strain being only as 88 to 100 ; it is clear, therefore, that if either 
ship parts her cable, it must be A that will part first. 

If A had her mooring swivel on, she could hot veer with any 
advantage, as the strain on that part of the cable between the 
swivel and anchor must remain constant ; for this reason, it is 
obvious that moorings should not be laid down across the pre- 
vailing winds. 

The above may be shown practically by stretching a small line 
between two points, and suspending a weight in the middle ; see 
what weight it will bear, and afterwards try what the same line 
will bear vertically ; the latter will be the ship at single anchor, 
the former the one moored. 



PART IX. 



489.— PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING DOWN. 

CLEARING THE SHIP. 

The ship should be stripped to lower-masts and lower-rigging, 
cleared of everything excepting the spars and running-gear, which 
will be required for lashings ; top and gear-tackles, runners, luffs, 
pendant- tackles, and in fact all the tackles of every size. The 
hammock-nettings should be taken off, the loose bulk-heads re- 
moved, and everything that is not applicable to the operation to 
be performed, as it is desirable to have the ship as light as possi- 
ble. The lower yards should be kept aloft till the outriggers are 
placed. 

CHOICE AND POSITION OF THE OUTRIGGERS AND SHORES. 

If left to your own resources, and large, rough spars are not to 
be obtained, the following may be used for outriggers, three of 
which will be required for each mast ; i. e., fore and main. 

Main-mast. Fore-mast. 

1 Main-topmast. 1 Fore-topmast. 

1 Main-topsail-yard. 1 Fore-topsail-yard. 

1 Half-yard (rough). 1 Cross-jack-yard. 

Note. — If you can get other spars, the yards should not be used. 

The spars should be placed in the main-deck-ports before and 
abaft the masts. When they are placed, the lower-yards, caps, 
tops and cross-trees may be sent down and landed. 

The shores should then be placed with their heels resting 
in shoes or the spare fishes, close out to the water-ways, and their 
heads between the trestle- trees before and abaft the mast-heads. 



262 



MAST-HEAD SHORES. 

Main-mast. Fore-mast. 



1 Main-topmast. 
1 Spanker-boom. 



1 Fore-topmast. 
1 Jib-boom. 



In preference to using belly-shores, I would recommend to fish 
the main-mast with the two mizen-topmasts, and the foremast 
with fore and main-topgallant-masts ; if no other spars are to be 
had, the topgallant-studdingsail-booms must be cut up for shores 
for the decks and outriggers. 

carpenters' work. 

In the mean time the carpenters should be employed in shoring 
the outriggers and decks under the beams, on which the mast- 
head-shores rest : good stages should also be prepared, the spare- 
shackle or gammoning-boits got ready ; the copper should be 
stripped where they are to be driven, viz. : before, abaft, and be- 
tween the outriggers, as low as convenient for driving, and fore- 
locking them on the inside, or as the water-line will allow. 

Note. — The holes should be bored slanting upwards, so that 
the martingales will rather tend to set them in than draw them 
out ; the shackles or rings of the gammoning-bolts should then 
be well parceled. 

SECURING THE OUTRIGGERS. 

In the meantime a party of riggers or seamen should be em- 
ployed to fit the martingales and outrigger-shrouds, and to strap 
the purchase-blocks. 

MARTINGALES. 

The size of the martingales must depend upon the angle which 
you are able to give them, as their size must increase as their 
angle becomes less. If the bolts are near the water-line, three 
parts of eight-inch for each outrigger will be found sufficient. 
The main outriggers should be cleated about eighteen feet from 
the side, for the rigging. The heels should be well shored down 
and securely lashed ; they should also be securely lashed down oi 
gammoned to the breeching-bolts or scupper-holes, and shored by 
diagonal shores in the angles of the port-sills, that the spars in 
rising may bring an equal pressure on all parts ; otherwise it 
would probably strain the top sides : the outriggers should also 
have a stout lashing to the train-bolts amidships. It the topsail- 
yards are used (which is not advisable when other spars can be 
obtained), the inner yard-arms must not be allowed to butt the 
ship's side, or water-ways ; they should have chain-snotters, and 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 263 

must be shored in all directions. The fore-outriggers should be 
cleated about fifteen feet from the ship's side, and secured in- 
board as the main. In addition to the martingale, the three out- 
riggers for each mast may be connected by luffs boused well taut, 
and the stay-tackles may be used for fore and after-guys, which 
will bring all to a fair strain. Any farther security that may 
suggest itself at the time, according to circumstances, should not 
be omitted, as you will never err by being on the safe side. 



STRAPS FOR PURCHASE-BLOCKS. 

I would also recommend the straps for the purchase-blocks 
should be warped of new, three-inch rope, selvagee-fashion, instead 
of the large rope-strap. The upper one will take about two 
coils, which will give about twenty-eight parts in the strap. The 
strap being middled, and the block seized in, the eyes or legs 
should pass round the mast-head, and lash on the same side as 
the block, and above it, which will give four times twenty-eight 
parts of three-inch rope in the neck of the strap. 



PIT-BLOCKS. 

The length of the lower strap must vary according to the pit 
you heave down to. It should contain at least thirty parts of 
three-inch, and also have four parts of the strap in the neck. If 
the pit is deep, it will be better to warp two separate straps of half 
the length for the lower blocks. The same way for the fore- 
mast, which may be securely lashed as most convenient, but nei- 
ther of the blocks should be lashed at the mast-head until the 
outrigger-shrouds are over, set up hand-taut, and matted over all. 

Note. — A second or preventer-purchase is required to each mast. 



PREVENTIVE 

For the main-mast, two lengths of the stream-cable (well par- 
celed) may next be put over the main-mast-head ; these may be 
set up through the lower-deck-ports, and kept clear of the chan- 
nels by short outriggers of hard wood, with grooves in the outer 
end to receive the cable resting in the channels, butting against 
the ship's side, and cleated round the heel, to form a step ; the 
outrigger-shrouds for each mast may then go over. They should 
be about eleven-inch-rope ; they must be well parceled : dead- 
eyes or blocks may be used to set them up, as convenient. 



* Small sized chain-cable maybe used to a good advantage if it can be obtained. 



264 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

For further security, the following purchases may be used. 

FOR THE MAIN-MAST, 

Two main-top-tackles lashed at the mast-head ; one set up at 
theimin-tack-bolts, the other to the after-quarter-deck-port ; two 
mast-head-runners to assist the main-stay ; two belly-stays of 
eleven-inch,* lashed one-third down the mast, and set up on the 
weather-side ; two main-yard tackles lashed one-third down ; one 
set up in the main-tack-bolts, the other, after-quarter-deck-port. 

FOR THE FORE-MAST. 

To assist the lower rigging, two threefold purchases lashed to 
the spare chain-plate-bolts ; two launches' purchases lashed to the 
mast-head, and set up, one to the cat-head, and the other to the 
after part of the fore-chains ; two runners lashed at the mast- 
head ; one set up to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-bolts ; two 
belly-stays of eleven inch, one-third way down the mast, and set 
up half-way in on the bowsprit ; two fore-top-tackles one-third 
down the mast ; one to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-water- 
ways, or scupper-holes, as most convenient. 

THE BOWSPRIT 

May be secured by the two fore-yard-tackles, hooked on the 
weather-side. 

THE MIZEN-MAST 

May be shored with one shore at the mast-head, and themizen- 
pendant-tackles and burtons may be used to assist the rigging, 
if considered necessary. 

SETTING UP THE RIGGING. 

The wedges being taken out, and the masts drawn over to the 
opposite partners, the shores may be cleated and lashed above the 
rigging, and below the trestle-trees with good worn rope of three 
or three-and-a-half-inch ; the lashing should be passed on both, 
with racking turns, hove taut by a Spanish windlass, the ends 
flapped round all parts, and secured ; the heels should also be 
lashed to the side, so that they can have no play forward or aft. 
The outriggers' and martingales being well set up to the span- 
shackle bolts, and secured otherwise as before mentioned, the lower 
rigging and outrigger-shrouds may be set up to a fair and equal 
strain, respectively ; the outrigger-shrouds may be a little tauter 
than the rigging, because they have a longer drift, and are les* 
strained when offering the same support ; in proportion, the ad- 
ditional purchases may then be set up. 



* i. e., -Supposing the vessel to be one of the largest class of frigates. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 265 

There is one point in the foregoing arrangements that merits 
peculiar attention ; having once measured the distance between 
the mast-heads, and the same between your lower blocks, you 
must be careful to preserve the same distance between the mast- 
heads whenever you may have occasion to set up afresh ; if you 
neglect this, your mast spreads apart as the ship comes down, 
and the stays and rigging are unfairly strained. 

The slack of the opposite rigging should then be taken in, and 
a swifter should be rove to keep it from hanging in a bight as 
the ship goes down. 

When the masts are thus secured, the purchase-blocks may be 
lashed, and the shores wedged under the heels until they have 
taken part of the strain off the rigging. Care should be taken 
that the shore-heads are clear of the trestle-trees ; the strain 
should not be wholly upon the shores and deck, but each shroud 
and purchase must bear its proportion. 

PURCHASE FALLS. 

Eleven-inch fall tailed with eight inch, is sufficient for the 
heaviest ship in the service. If you have only your own re- 
sources, use the large hawsers tailed with the smaller, or what- 
ever rope is convenient in the store-room, which may suit the 
purpose. 

Note. — In reeving, use a small line for that purpose ; you will 
also save time and trouble by using the capstan* in reeving and 
overhauling the falls, which is a work of considerable time. 

Two-and-a-half-inch stuff is a good size for a reeving line. 

MAST-HEAD STOPPERS. 

Two good stoppers of eleven-inch rope should be fitted to each 
mast; they may go with a clove-hitch round the mast-head, the 
ends being long enough to reeve through the strap of the lower 
purchase-blocks, to hitch and seize back; a small jigger, and two 
balls of spun-yarn should be ready for each purchase ; the lead- 
ing block should also be lashed alongside of its respective pit- 
block with a long lashing, to allow the leader to rise high enough 
to clear the fall of the edge of the pit ; and stoppers must also be 
fitted for each leader-crab or capstan. 

The greatest attention is required to the leading of the falls, as 
the slightest chafe or rub, with so great a strain, might prove of 
serious consequence ; a sharp axe should be ready at each pit. 



* If at the wharf or navy-yard, cattle might be clapped on to reeve the fall with 
greater facility. 



266 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



THE PIT. 



The formation of the pit, or sleeper, in which your lower block 
is secured, must vary so much in locality, that no general rule 
can be given. 



ANCHORS AND CABLES. 



The bowers may be landed, or used to moor the ship with, 
head and stern ; the sheet-anchors may next be laid out a-beam 
as tripping-anchors, at such a o distance according to the depth of 
the water, as may ensure their holding ; one should be abreast 
of the foremast, the other opposite the main-mast ; a stout haw- 
ser should be bent to the ring of each, and brought in at the 
second lower-deck port, abaft the main-mast, and first port abaft 
the foremast, on the same side as the anchors are laid out. 

The chains to these tripping-anchors should be tailed with a 
stream-cable, which is to pass under the ship's bottom and in at 
the quarter-deck port, abaft the main channels and second port 
on the forecastle ; these ports should be well lined, and stoppers 
fitted ready for fleeting j a three-fold purchase stretched across 
the deck, may be here applied, so that when you have tripped 
the ship off by the hawsers you may bouse the cables in taut, 
stopper and rack to the breeching-bolts. 

In tripping off, you must be careful to keep the ship parallel to 
the pits, or you may chance to bring one anchor iiome. 

caulking, &c. 

While the foregoing preparations are being made, the pumps 
should be shortened, to work on the lower deck. The caulkers 
and carpenters should be employed upon the side that is to be 
hove down, stopping the air-holes on all the decks, and thorough- 
ly caulking every seam or hole that will either be immersed, 
or exposed to the action of the water that may find admittance, 
particularly in the wake of the hammock-nettings that have, 
been removed, and round the quarter-galleries. 




Water' 




Line 



Arrangement of the Pumps, in heaving down. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 267 

The caulking should be considered a very important point ; 
the smallest hole that can admit water must be carefully stopped. 

The main-deck ports must be filled up in the centre with plank, 
well caulked, and covered with tarred canvass ; the lower deck 
ports and scuttles thoroughly caulked in ; the holes for the port- 
pendants plugged, cross-caulked, and payed over, and the scup- 
pers made tight in the same manner ; and it must be remember- 
ed that want of attention to these particulars may cost you hours 
at the pumps, or perhaps oblige you to right the ship at a 
moment when you might advantageously continue the repair ; 
the hawse-holes and stern-ports need not be stopped^Vor they will 
not be near the water when the ship is keel out 

LADDERS, &C. 

Battens four inches deep, should be nailed fore and aft on each 
deck ; knotted ropes and Jacob's-ladders should be placed at con- 
venient distances, to secure ready access to every part of the ship, 
which is more difficult when she is down than would be ima- 
gined. 

Note. — The hatchway ladders should all be lashed. 

ARRANGEMENT OF THE PUMPS. 

If the water must be raised more than thirty feet, two sets of 
pumps will be required ; the lower ones must throw the water 
into tubs or tanks placed on the lower deck — the upper ones 
must be placed in these vessels, and raise it from them to the up- 
per deck ; for this purpose nine or ten pumps will be required ; 
they may be built square, of plank caulked in the seams, well 
parceled and woolded, or if timber can be had, may be formed 
by sawing straight spars in half lengthwise, and rejoining them 
after they are hollowed ; then parceling, tarring, and woolding 
all over. 

The number required being completed, the lower and orlop- 
decks must be scuttled, to allow the pumps to be placed at the 
required angle, so that their ends may rest a little below the 
orlop-wing gratings; the main and upper deck pumps may be 
sufficiently sloped in the hatchways with their heels in the ves- 
sels, which are raised on platforms inclined at an angle, to pre- 
serve their level when the ship is down. 

The pumps should have large holes in their nozzles, and 
troughs should be made to carry the water over the skids to lee- 
ward on the upper deck. 

Substantial platforms must be secured at the same angle, at 
convenient positions, for the men to work the pumps. 

The pumps should be tried before you heave down, to see that 
they are tight, and also when in position to see that the brakes 
work clear of the beams and comings. 



268 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 

Any fire engines that can be procured, should be worked in 
the hold on similar platforms, with their hoses led on deck. 

WEIGHT FOR HEELING AND TRIPPING SHIP. 

The rigging being set up, the purchase falls rove, the pumps 
rigged and all the foregoing preparations made, fifteen or twenty- 
tons of water in casks may be placed on the side to be hove 
down, and lashed to the breeching-bolts, &c., on the quarter-deck 
and fore-castle. 

PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING. 

The ship may then be hove off by the tripping-hawsers to the 
distance of seventy or eighty feet from the pits, and the tripping- 
cables boused well taut. 

The men required to work the pumps and engines, should be 
on board, with a proportion of carpenters to stop small leaks, 
clear the pumps, attend the masts in the partners, &c. ; the 
hand-pumps should be used as long as they will act, so as to 
keep the ship perfectly dry ; the ' men ' should be to leeward on 
the upper deck, to assist with their weight the purchases ; at 
slack water you may commence heaving ; the ship will incline 
15° before the slack of the falls is through, and will continue to 
close the pits until she is down to 35° ; she will then begin to go 
off. It must be remembered that the main-mast is to heave the . 
ship down ; the fore purchase is only an assistant, and must not 
be unfairly hove upon; avoid surging as much as possible; the 
moment the pumps will draw they must begin to work. When 
the ship is down the falls must be stoppered and racked, the 
mast-head stoppers passed, boused taut and secured; you may 
then walk back and reverse the falls upon the capstans, taking a 
turn round the bitts with the running part, which is to be hove 
off by the capstans as you ease up, and will cause less surging. • 

STAGES. 

Substantial floating stages having been previously made by 
the carpenters, should now be ready to haul in ; a large boat 
containing tool-chests and the stores necessary for stopping the 
leak, should be in attendance ; when the ship is down, not a 
single second should be lost ; let your men sing out cheer at the 
pumps, and forego that part of your discipline for a short time, 
which might be a hindrance to your immediate object. Watch 
narrowly the purchases and be ready to ease-up at a moment's 
warning, if they slacken or any of the gear carries away. In 
easing-up, when the main-deck scuppers are out of water, hold on, 
take the lead or canvass off that secured them, and let the water 
escape from the deck ; you may get rid of several tons thus with- 
out much labor. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



269 



The carpenters must be careful in clearing the injured part, 
not to increase the leak by undertaking more than they are able 
to perform ; as a general rule, make all as tight as possible before 
you think of easing-up for the night. 



490.— A DERRICK. 



What is termed a derrick, is a 
single spar rounded off at the heel 
to set in a shoe, (similar to a shear- 
leg;) the upper end is made with 
shoulders or cleats, to stop the pur- 
chase-block from working down, 
also the guys ; the derrick may be 
used for many purposes instead of 
shears to great advantage, espe- 
cially on board of merchant ships 
when discharging, it being so easily 
swung from a perpendicular posi- 
tion to rake over the ship's side, 
the heel resting in its shoe, and 
the head canted in any position by 
the guys ; any kind of a purchase 
may be used at a derrick-head, but 
the most general, is the single and 
double-burton. 

On the subject of providing 
means — few ships go to sea with- 
out a spare topmast or a spar to make one, which spar is in every 
way calculated for a derrick, if it will make a topmast. 

The rigging, (that is the various guys and ropes necessary to 
sustain it in its position,) and the purchase-blocks for lifting the 
weight, may be secured to the spar any height above the deck to 
suit the particular purpose in hand, without either cutting the 
spar, or nailing on cleats — as by a well managed arrangement 
of lashings, all slipping or shifting of position may certainly be 
prevented. 

Note. — The more a derrick approaches a perpendicular position, 
the less will be the strain upon the guys. 




270 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

GENERAL CAUTIONS. 



In any very intricate Navigation, 

Anchor at night or when in doubt. 

Take frequent and short departures. 

Pay particular attention that the proper course is steered. 

Hand in the chains, and lead kept going. 

Good look out. 

Anchors ready, and cables clear. 

Canvass well regulated and be ready for bringing up. 

Boats ready, tackles at hand. 

Stream cable and hawsers ready. 

Top-gallant-mast-ropes rove. 

Taken in a Squall. 

A vigilant look out, will usually prevent your being taken by 
a squall in an unprepared state. 

If taken in a squall with the wind on the beam, before it, or 
close hauled, keep your luff, and lower away, and clew up all as 
fast as you can. In doing so the ship will be relieved, and the 
canvass got in better than if the helm had been put up. 

But if taken in a squall with the wind abaft ihe beam, putting 
the helm up, and running away from it, as well as shortening sail, 
will then be the readiest mode of easing a ship. (Remember this.) 

On Good Order — (Merchant Service). 

In a man-of-war, discipline is productive of the greatest good 
— the energies of all are called for, and employed as most requir- 
ed ; but even without martial law good regulations might, and 
ought to be established in every ship, at all times, and in all 
places. 

The greatest assistance to the promotion of good order, would 
be sobriety in seamen. The few shades in the sterling qual- 
ities which belong to them, many of their irregularities and acts 
of insubordination, may be traced to intemperance. They might 
abstain, perhaps, but they cannot refrain. If owners would give 
$1 a month in lieu of spirits, and have a mutual agreement respect- 
ing its use abroad, with a stipulated penalty for drunkenness, 
ships might be managed much more safely, and with greater 
ease and economy than at present ; half the work of discipline 
would then be effected. 

Where the men are sober, have entire confidence in their offi- 
cers, and are well treated, not harrassed unnecessarily, and see 
that the comforts they ought to have are properly attended to — 
I think it would be found in most instances, that effective good 
order would establish itself. Where it does exist, the vessel's ser- 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 271 

vices are rendered in every way more effective and beneficial to 
her employers, as well as more agreeable to the officers, crew, and 
passengers, if any, and her chances of casualties considerably 
lessened. 

The remedy, too, is in a great measure in the hands of ship- 
owners and captains themselves ; for if they required certificates 
of sobriety before they would ship men, drunken ones would 
either remain unemployed or become sober, — for even a sober 
landsman, is more useful than a drunken sailor. 

On Cleanliness, as regards the Preservation of Life in Vessels. 

Nothing is toe trifling for an officer's attention, that tends to 
the health and benefit of those dependent on his care and fore- 
thought. 

Every vessel should be pumped out mormng and evening. 

A clean, sweet, and dry hold is essential to the health of the 
crew. 

Nothing can be more injurious than for men to sleep over 
bilge-water, which must be the case if any water is left in the 
hold at night. 

The hold ought to be cleared often, and when it is, it should 
be white-washed ; and also the between-decks frequently white- 
washed. 

On Painting. 

In tropical climates, avoid painting as much as possible, par- 
ticularly in-board. 

On the Health of Men, in the Merchant Service. 

In port, in tropical climates, give the men a little coffee before 
they go to work in the morning. 

The inconsiderate indulgence in new rum, has been one great 
means of increasing the numbers attacked with yellow fever. 

Do not allow the men to lay about in night dews ; and partic- 
ularly not to wait about at wharfs. 

Allow the men the use of fresh water whenever it can be spared, 
for washing clothes, and also for themselves. 




PART X 



491.— EXPLANATION OF SEA TERMS. 

Aback. A sail is aback when its forward surface is acted upon 
by the wind. 

Abaft. The hinder part of the ship. Behind, thus abaft the 
foremast, means anything nearer to the stern than the foremast. 

Aboard. In the ship ; as the cargo is aboard. A ship is said 
to fall aboard when she runs foul of another. To get aboard 
the main-tack is to bring the clew of the mainsail down to the 
chess-tree. 

About. A ship is said to be going about, when in the act of 
backing ; the order for which is " ready about there." 

Abreast. Opposite to. 

Adrift. Broken loose from the moorings. 

Afloat. Swimming ; not touching the bottom. 

Afore. That part of the ship nearest to the stem or head. 

Aft. Behind ; as stand farther aft — stand nearer to the stern. 

After. Hinder, as the after ports — those ports nearest the stern 
— after sails, after hatchway, &c, &c. 

Aground. Not having water enough to float the ship, which 
rests on the ground. 

Ahead. Before the ship. 

A-lee. The helm is a-lee when the tiller is put to the lee-side. 
— " Hard-a-lee," when it is put as far as it will go. 

All in the toind. When the wind blows on the leeches or out- 
ward extremities of the sails, and causes them to shake. 
IS 



274 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

All hands, ahoy. This word given by the boatswain and his 
mates at the hatchway to assemble the ship's company. 

Aloft. Up above ; in the rigging ; on the yards ; at the mast- 
head, <fec. 

Alongside. Close to the ship's side. 

Amidships. In the middle of the ship. The helm is amid- 
ships when the tiller is not put over, either to one side or the other. 

To anchor. To let the anchor fall overboard, that it may hold 
the ship. 

To foul the anchor. To let the cable be twisted round the up- 
per fluke, &c. 

To drag the anchor. When the ship pulls it with her, from the 
violence of the wind. 

Anchorage. Ground fit to anchor in. 

The anchor is a cock bill. It is hanging by the stopper at the 
cat-head. 

The anchor is a-peak. Near to the ship. Thus at different 
distances it is called a long peak, a stay peak, a short peak. 

The anchor is a-weigh or a-trip. Loosened from the ground 
by heaving in the cable. 

The anchor is backed. Another anchor is placed at a certain 
distance before it, and attached to it by the cable of the former 
being fastened to it, which fixes it firmly in the ground. 

The anchor is catted. Drawn up to the cat-head. 

The anchor is fished. Its inner arm is drawn up by the fish- 
pendant. 

To weigh the anchor. To heave it up by the capstan or wind- 
lass. 

The sheet-anchor, is of the same size and weight of the two 
bower anchors, and the spare anchor ; it is a resource and de- 
pendence should either of the bowers part, for which purpose the 
cable is always kept ready bent with a long range, that it may 
be let go on an emergency. 

Best bower or small bower anchors, are the two anchors which 
are stowed the farthest forward, or near the bows. 

The stream-anchor, is used to bring the ship up with occasion- 
ally, or to steady the ship when she comes to a temporary moor- 
ing. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 275 

The kedge-anchor. The smallest of the anchors, to which a 
hawser or cable is generally bent, and used for warping ship. 

An end. Any spar or mast placed perpendicularly. The top- 
masts are an end ; they are swayed up and ridded above the lower 
masts. 

All an end. All the masts are up in their proper stations. 

A-peak. (See Anchor.) 

Ashore. On land ; aground. 

Astern. Behind the ship. 

Athwart. Across. Athwart hawse, across the stem ; athwart 
ships, anything lying in a direction across the ship ; athwart 
the fore-foot, a shot fired by another ship across the bows. 

Atrip. (See Anchor.) 

Avast. To cease hauling ; to stop. 

Aweigh. (See Anchor.) 

Aweather. The helm is said to be aweather, when the tiller is 
put over to the windward side of the ship ; hard aweather, when 
it it is put over as far as it will go. 

Awning. A canvass canopy, placed over the deck when the 
sun is powerful. 

To back the sails. To expose their forward surfaces to the 
wind, by hauling in the weather braces. 

Back-stays. Ropes fixed at the topmast and topgallant-mast 
heads, and extended to the chains on the ship's sides. 

To bag-pipe the mizen. To bring the sheet over to the 
weather-mizen-shrouds, in order to lay it aback. 

To balance the mizen. Rolling up a portion of it at the peak. 

Ballast. A quantity of iron, stone, gravel, &c, placed in the 
hold to give a ship proper stability when she has no cargo, or 
but a small quantity of goods, &c. 

Bands. Pieces of canvass sewn across the sail, called reef- 
bands — also a piece stuck on the middle of the sail, to strengthen 
it when half-worn. 

Bar. A shoal running across the mouth of a harbor. 

Capstan bars. Pieces of timber put into the holes in the drum- 
head of the capstan, (where they are secured with iron pins,) to 
heave up the anchor, &c. 

Bare poles. Having no sail up. 



276 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

Battens. Slips of wood nailed on the slings of the yard, which 
are eight square — also over the tarpaulings of a hatchway to 
keep the water out in stormy weather. 

Bays. In men-of-war, the starboard and larboard sides between 
decks, before the bitts ; in small vessels, amidships. 

Beams. Strong pieces of timber across the ship, under the 
decks, bound to the side by knees. They support and keep the 
ship together. 

On the beam. When the wind blows at a right angle with the 
keel. 

Before the beam. When the wind or object bears on some 
point less than a right angle, or ninety degrees from the ship's 
head. 

Abaft the beam. When the wind or object bears on some point 
which is more than a right angle of ninety degrees from the 
ship's course. 

Bearing. The point of the compass on which any object ap- 
pears ; it is also applied to an object which lies opposite to any 
part of the ship ; thus the buoy, &c., bears on the beam, the bow, 
the quarter, &c. 

Beating to windward. Tacking, and endeavoring to get to 
windward of some head land. 

Becalmed. Having no wind to fill the sails. The ship being 
deprived of the power of the wind, by the intervention of high 
land, a large ship, &c. 

Beckets. Short straps, having an eye in one end and a double 
walled knot on the other — for suspending a yard, &c, till wanted ; 
such as the beckets for the royal-yards, for the bights of the 
sheets, &c. 

To belay. To make fast. 

Bend. A kind of knot — as a sheet-bend, &c, or a seizing, such 
as the bends of the cable. 

To bend. To make fast — as to bend the sails, the cable, &c. 

Bends. The streaks of thick stuff, or strongest planks in the 
ship's sides, on the broadest part ; these are also called the wales. 

Between decks. Any part of the ship below, betwcn two decks. 

Bight. Any part of a rope between the ends, also a collar or 
eye formed by a rope. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 277 

Bilge. The flat part of a ship's bottom. Bilge water, that 
which rests in the bilge, either from rain, shipping water, &c. 

Binnacle. The frame or box which contains the compass. 

Berth. A place of anchorage ; a cabin or apartment. 

Bitts. Large, upright pins of timber, with a cross piece, over 
which the bight of the cable is put, also smaller ones to belay 
ropes, such as topsail-sheets, &c. 

To bitt. To place a bight of the cable over the bitts. 

Blocks. Instruments with sheaves or pulleys, used to increase 
the power of ropes. 

Block and block. When the two blocks of a tackle are drawn 
so close together that there is no more of the fall left to haul 
upon ; it is also termed chock-a-block. 

To make a board. To tack. 

To make a stem board. To drive a ship stern foremost, by 
laying the sails aback. 

Boarding. Entering an enemy's ship by force ; the men are 
called boarders. 

Boarding netting. Net work triced round the ship to prevent 
the boarders from entering. 

Boats. Small vessels. Those belonging to ships are the long 
boat, the launch, the cutter, the yawl, and the jolly-boat. 

Boatswain. The officer who has charge of the cordage, boats, 
rigging, &c. 

Bobstays. Ropes rove through the cutwater, and set up with 
dead-eyes under the bowsprit, to act against the power of the 
fore stays. Sometimes one of these is taken to the end of the 
bowsprit to act against the fore-topmast stays. 

Bolsters. Pieces of wood or canvass stuffed, placed on the 
lower trestle-trees to keep the rigging from chafing. 

Bolts. Iron fastenings by which the ship is secured in her hull. 

Bolt-ropes. Ropes sewn round the edges of the sails. 

Booms. Large poles, used to extend the studding-sails, spanker, 
jibs, &c. 

Boom-irons. Iron caps fixed on the yard-arms for the studding- 
sail-booms to rest in. 

Bows. The round part of the ship, forward. 

To bouse. To haul upon. 



278 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 

Bower. (See Anchor.) 

Bowlines. Ropes made fast to the leeches, or sides of the sails, 
to pull them forward. 

Bowsprit. A mast projecting over the stem. 

Box-hauling. A method of waring or turning a ship from the 
wind. 

Boxing-off. Turning the ship's head from the wind by back- 
ing the head sails. 

Braces. Ropes fastened to the yard-arms to brace them about, 
also a security to the rudder, fixed to the stern-post. 

Brails. Ropes applied to the after leeches of the mizen, and 
some of the staysails to draw them up. 

To break bulk. To begin to unload. 

To break the sheer. To swerve from the proper direction in 
which a ship should be when at anchor. 

Breaming. Burning the stuff which is collected on the ship's 
bottom during a long voyage. 

Breast-hooks. Pieces of timber placed across the bows of a 
ship to keep them together. 

Breast-work. Railing on the fore part of the quarter deck, where 
ropes are belayed. 

Breeching. A stout rope fixed to the cascable of a gun, fasten- 
ed to the ship's side to prevent its running in. 

Bridles. The upper part of the moorings laid in harbors for 
men-of-war ; also ropes attached from the leeches of the square 
sails to the bowlines. 

To bring up. To come to an anchor. 

To bring to. To make a ship stationary, stopping her way by 
bracing some of the sails aback, and keeping others full, so as to 
counterpoise each other. 

To bring by the lee. When a ship is sailing with the wind very 
large, and flies off from it so as to bring it on the other side, the 
sails catching aback, she is then said to be brought by the lee ; 
this is a dangerous position in a high sea. 

To broach-to. Flying up in the wind, so as to bring it on 
the other side when blowing fresh. 

Bulk-heads. Partitions in the ship. 

BulVs-eye. A wooden thimble. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 279 

Bumkin, or boomkin. A short boom fitted to the bows of a ship 
for the purpose of hauling down the fore tack to ; it is supported 
on each side by a shroud. 

Bunt. The middle part of a square-sail, also the fore leech of a 
quadrangular staysail. 

Buntlines. Ropes attached to the foot of a square-sail, to haul 
it up. 

Burton pendants. The first piece of rigging which goes over 
the topmast-head, to which is hooked a tackle to set up the top- 
mast-shrouds. 

Bush. Metal in the sheaves of blocks which have iron pins. 

Butt-end. The end of a plank in a ship's side. 

Buttock. That part of a ship's hull under the stern, between 
the water-line and wing- transom. 

By the board. Over the side. A mast is said to go by the 
board when it is carried or shot away just above the deck. 

By the head. When a ship is deeper in the water forward than 
aft. 

By the stern. The reverse of by the head. 

By the wind. When a ship is as near to the wind as her head 
can lie, with the sails filled. 

Cabin. A room or apartment ; also a bed place. 

Cable. A large rope by which the ship is secured to the anchor. 
Cables take their names from the anchor to which they belong ; 
as the sheet-cable, the best bower-cable, &c. They are generally 
120 fathoms in length. 

To bitt the cable. (See Bitts.) 

To heave in the cable. To pull it into the ship by the windlass 
or capstan. 

To pay out the cable. To pass it out of the hawse-hole. 
To veer away the cable. To slacken it so that it may run out, 
as in paying out. 

To serve the cable. To wrap it round with rope, plait, or horse- 
hide, to keep it from chafing. 

To slip the cable. To let it run clear out. 
Cable tier. That part of the orlop-deck where the cables are 
soiled. 

To coil the cable. To lay it on the deck in a circular form. 



280 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Caboose. The place where the victuals are dressed in mer- 
chantmen. 

Call. A silver pipe or whistle used by the boatswain and his 
mates, by the sounding of which they call up the hands, direct 
them to haul, to veer, to belay, &c, &c. 

Canted. Anything turned from its square position. 

Canvass. Strong cloth, of which the sails are made. 

Cap. A block of wood which secures the topmast to the lower 
mast. 

Capsize. To turn over. 

Capstan. A machine for drawing up the anchor by the mes- 
senger, which is taken round it and applied to the cable by the 
nippers. 

Careening. Heaving a vessel down on one side, to clean or 
repair her bottom. 

Carrick bend. A kind of knot. 

Cast. To pay a ship's head off by backing the head sails when 
heaving up the anchor, so as to bring the wind on the side required. 

Cat-block. A large, double or threefold block, used for drawing 
the anchor up to the cat head. 

Cat-head. A large piece of timber or crane, projecting over the 
bow, for drawing up the anchor clear from the ship's side. 

Cat-harpings. Short legs of rope seized to the upper part of the 
lower shrouds and futtock-staves, to keep them from bulging out 
by the strain of the futtock-shrouds, and to permit the bracing 
up of the lower yards. 

Cafs-paw. A light air, perceived by its effect upon the water, 
but not durable ; also a twist made on the bight of a rope. 

To Caulk. To drive oakum into the seams of the sides, decks, &c. 

Chains. Links of iron bolted to the ship's sides, having dead- 
eyes in the upper ends, to which the shrouds are connected by the 
lanyards. 

Channels. Strong, broad planks, bolted to the sides to keep the 
dead-eyes in the chains from the side, to spread the rigging 
farther out. 

Chapeling. A ship is said to build a chapel, when by neglect 
in light winds she turns round so as to bring the wind on the 
same part it was before she moved. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 281 

Chase. A ship pursued by another. 

Bow-chase. A gun in the fore part of the ship. 

Stem-chase. A gun pointing astern in the after part of the ship. 

To chase. To pursue ; to follow. 

To cheer. To huzza. What cheer-ho ! a salutation. 

Chock-a-block. (See block and block.) 

To clap on. To make fast ; as, clap on the stoppers, &c. 

To claiv off. To beat to windward from a lee-shore 

Cleats. Pieces of wood to fasten ropes to. 

Close-hauled. As anigh the wind as a ship can lie. 

Club-hauling. Tacking by means of an anchor. 

Clues or Clews. The lower corners of the square sails. 

Coamings. The borders of the hatchways which are raised 
above the deck. 

Coiling. Laying a rope down in a circular form. 

Companion. A wooden covering over the cabin hatchway. 

Course. The point of the compass on which the ship sails ; the 
mainsail, foresail and mizen are also called courses. 

Crab. A small capstan. 

To cun the ship. To direct the helmsman how to steer. 

Cutwater. The knee of the head. 

Davit. A crane of timber used for fishing the anchors. 

Dead-eye. A block with three holes in, to receive the lanyard 
of a shroud or stay. 

Dog-vane. A small vane made of cork and feathers, and placed 
on the weather side of the quarter deck. 

Dolphin. A wreath of rope placed round a mast. (See Pudding.) 

To Douse. To let fly the halliards of a topsail ; to lower away 
briskly, &c. 

Downhauler. A rope to pull down the staysails, topmast, stud- 
dingsails, &c. 

Drift. Driving to leeward ; driving with the tide. Drifts are 
also those parts where the rails are cut off an end with scrolls. 

Driver. A large sail suspended to the mizen-gaff. 

Dunnage. Wood, &c. laid at the bottom of a ship to keep the 
cargo dry. 

Barings. Small ropes to make fast the upper corners of square- 
sails, &c. 



282 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Ease-off. To slacken. 

End-for-end. To let a rope or cable run quite out. 

End-on. When a ship's bows and head sails are only seen. 

Ensign. A national flag worn by ships at their gaff-ends. 

Fag-end. The end of a rope which is untwisted. 

Fake. One circle of a coil of rope. 

Falling-off. When a ship moves from the wind farther than 
she ought. 

Fid. A tapered piece of wood, or iron, to splice ropes with ; 
also a piece of wood which supports one mast upon the trestle- 
trees of another. 

To Fill. To brace the yards so that the wind may strike the 
sails on their after surfaces. 

Flukes. The broad parts or palms of the anchors. (See Anchor.) 

Fore. That part of the ship nearest to the head. 

Fore and aft. The lengthway of the ship, or in the direction 
of the keel. 

Fore-castle. A short deck in the fore part of the ship. 

Forging-a-head. Forced a-head by the wind. -" 

Foul hawse. When the cables are twisted. 

To founder. To sink. 

Full and by. (See' close-hauled.) 

Furling. Making fast the sails to the yards by the gaskets. 

Gaff. The spar or yard, to which the mizen of a ship, or the 
mainsail of a brig or cutter is bent. 

Gang-way. A deck reaching from the quarter-deck to the fore- 
castle ; also the place where persons enter the ship. 

Gasket. A piece of plat to fasten the sails to the yard. 

Girt. A ship is girted when her cables are too tight, which 
prevents her swinging. 

Goose-neck. An iron hook at the end of a boom. 
Goose-wings. The outer extremities of a main or foresail, 
when loose, the rest of it being furled. 
Goring. Cutting a sail obliquely. 

Gripe. A piece of timber that joins the keel and the cut-water. 
Griping. When a ship carries her helm much to windward. 
Gunnel. The upper part of a ship's side. 
Guy. A rope to steady a boom. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 283 

Gybing. When (by the wind being large), it is necessary to 
shift the boom of a fore and aft sail. 

Halliards. Tackles or ropes to hoist up the sails. 

To Hand. (The same as to furl.) 

Hatchway. A square hole in the deck, which communicates 
with the hold, or another deck. 

To Haul. To pull. 

To Hail. To call out to another ship. 

A clear Hawse. When the cables are not twisted. 

Afoul HaiDse. When the cables lie across, or are twisted. 

Haivse-holes. The holes through which the cables pass. 

Hawser. A small cable. 

To Heel. To incline to one side. 

Helm. A wooden bar put through the head of a rudder ; also 
called a tiller. 

To Hitch. To make fast. 

The Hold. The lower apartment of a ship, where the provisions 
and goods are stowed. 

To haul Home. To pull the clew of a sail, &c. as far as it will go. 

Horse. A rope made fast to the yard, on which the men stand. 

Hull. The body of a ship. 

Jewel-blocks. Blocks at the topsail-yard-arms for the topmast- 
studding-sail halliards. 

Jigger. A purchase used in merchant ships to hold on the cable. 

Junk. Pieces of old cable, out of which mats, gaskets, &c. are 
made. (See article on Junk.) 

Jury-masts. Temporary masts, when the others are carried or 
shot away. 

Keckling. Old rope passed round the cable at short distances. 

Kink. A twist or turn in a rope. 

To Labor. To pitch and roll heavily. 

Land-fall. Discovering the land. 

Larboard. The left side. 

Launch-ho. To let go the top rope when the topmast is fidded. 

Leeioard. That point which the wind blows. 

Lee-lurch. When the ship rolls to leeward. 

Lee-tide. When the wind and tide are the same way. 



284 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

Lizard. A small piece of rope with a thimble spliced into a 
larger one. 

Looming. The appearance of a distant object ; such as a ship, 
the land, &c. 

Lubber. A sailor who does not know his duty. 

Luff. A direction to the steersman to put the helm to leeward. 

Luff-tackle. A large tackle consisting of a double and single 
block. 

Lying-to. (See To bring- to.) 

To man the yards. To send men upon them. 

To moor. To secure a ship by more than one cable. 

Moorings. The place where a vessel is moored ; also anchors 
with chains and bridles, laid in rivers for men-of-war to ride by. 

Neap-tides. Those tides which happen when the moon is in 
her quarters, and are not so high as the Spring-tides. 

Neaped. A ship is said to be neaped, when she is left on shore 
by these tides, and must wait for the next Spring-tides. 

To Near the land. To approach the shore. 

To Near. A direction to the helmsman to, put the helm little 
" a-weather ; " to keep the sails full ; to let her come no nearer to 
the wind. 

Nippers. Plaiting or selvagees, to bind the cable to the mes- 
senger. 

Off-and-on. Coming near the land on one tack, and leaving it 
on another. 

Offing. Out to sea from the land. 

Orlop-deck. The lowest deck in the ship, lying on the beams 
of the hold. The place where the cables are coiled, and where 
other stores are kept. 

Overboard. Out of the ship. 

Overhauling. To haul a fall of rope through a block till it is 
slack — also examining a ship. 

Painter. A rope by which a boat is made fast. 

To Pass. To hand anything from one to another, or to place 
a rope or lashing round the yard, &c. 

Pay. To rub tar, pitch, or anything, with a brush. 

To pay off. To make a ship's head recede from the wind, by 
backing the head-sails. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 285 

To Peak up. To raise the after end of a gaff. 

Plying. Turning to windward. 

Pooping. A ship is said to be pooped when she is struck by a 
heavy sea, on the stern or quarter. 

Port. To the left side. This term is used for the helmsman 
to put the helm to the left, instead of the word Larboard, to 
make a distinction from the affinity of sound in the word Star- 
board. 

Preventer. Anything for temporary security, as a preventer- 
brace, &c. 

Pendant, or Pennant. A sort of long, narrow banner. 

Pendant (broad). A sort of flag terminating in two points. 

Pendant. The name of a piece of rope applied to different 
objects on ship-board; i. e., fish-pendants, rudder-pendants, &c. 

Quarter. That part of a ship's side between the main-chains 
and the stern. 

Racking a Fall. Seizing the parts of a tackle-fall together by 
cross-turns. 

Rake. The projection of a ship at the stem and stern, beyond 
the extent of the keel — also the inclination of a ship's masts, 
either forward or aft from a perpendicular line. 

Range of Cable. A sufficient length hauled up to permit the 
anchor to drop to the bottom. 

To Rattle down the Shrouds. To fix the ratlings on them. 

To Reef. To reduce a sail by tying it round the yard with 
points. 

To Reeve. To put a rope through a block, &c. 

To Ride. To be held by the cable ; to ride easy, is when a ship 
does not labor much ; to ride hard, is when a ship pitches with 
violence. 

To Rig. To fit the rigging to the mast. 

To Right. A ship is said to right when she rises to her up- 
t ight position, after being laid down by a violent squall. 

To Right the Helm. To put it a-midships, or in its fore and 
aft position parallel to the keel. 

To Round-in. To haul in a brace, &c, which is not very tight. 

To Rouse-in. To haul in the slack part of the cable. 



286 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 

To Run down. When one ship sinks another by running ovei 
her. 

To Scud. To sail before the wind in a storm. 

To Scuttle a Ship. To make holes in her bottom to sink her. 

To Serve. To wind anything around a cable or rope, to pre- 
vent its being chafed. 

To Seize. To make fast or bind. 

To Sheer. To go in and out, and not in a direct course. 

To Ship. To put anything on board ; to ship a sea, when a 
sea breaks into a ship. 

To Shiver. To make the sails shake. 

The Slack of a Rope, fyc. That part which hangs loose. 

To Slip a Cable. To let it run out to the end. 

To Slue. To turn anything about. 

To Sound. To find the bottom by a leaden plummet. 

To take a Spell. To be in turn on duty at the lead, the 
pump, &c. 

To Spill. To take the wind out of the sails by the braces, &c, 
in order ro reef or to hand them. 

To Splice. To join two ropes together, by uniting the strands. 

Spoon-drift. A continued flying of the spray and waves over 
the surface of the sea. 

To Spring- a Mast. To crack or split it. 

A Spring. A rope made fast to the cable at the bow and 
taken in abaft, in order to expose the ship's side in any direction. 

Spring-tides. The highest tides at the full and change of the 
moon. 

To Stand-on. To keep in the course. 

To Stand-by. To be ready. 

Starboard. The right side. 

To Steer. To manage a ship by the movement of the helm. 

To Stopper the Cable. To keep it from running out by fasten- 
ing short ropes to it, called stoppers. 

Strandj. One of the divisions of a rope. 

Stranded When one of the divisions of a rope is broken— 
also when a ship is run on shore, so that she cannot be got off, 
she is said to be stranded. 

To Stretch. To stand on different tacks, under a press of sail 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 287 

To Strike. To beat against the bottom — also to lower the flag 
in token of submission. Lowering the topmasts, is commonly 
termed striking them. 

To Surge the Messenger. To slack it suddenly. 

To Sway. To hoist up the yards and topmasts. 

To Swing. To turn a ship from one side of her anchor to 
another, at the change of the tide. 

To Tack. To turn a ship by the sails and rudder against the ' 
wind. 

Taut. A corruption of tight. 

Taunt. Long, lofty. 

Tending. The movement of a vessel in swinging at anchor. 

Tier. The place where cables are coiled. 

Traverse. To sail on different courses. When a rope runs 
freely through a thimble, &c, it is said to traverse. 

Trying. Laying-to in a gale of wind under a small sail. 

Turning to Windward. Tacking. 

Twice-laid stuff. Rope made from the yarns of a cable, &c, 
which has been half-worn. 

To Veer and Hard. To pull a rope, and then slacken it. 

To Unbend. To cast loose. 

To Unmoor. To reduce a ship to a single anchor, after riding 
by two. 

To Unreeve. To pull a rope out of a block. 

To Unrig. To deprive a ship of her rigging. 

To Unshij). To take anything from the place in which it was 
fixed. 

Waist of a Ship. The part between the main and fore-drifts ; 
also a term sometimes used for the spare or waist-anchor, from 
its being stowed near the fore-drift, or fore part of the waist. 

Wake. The track left by the ship on the water which she has 
passed over. 

Wales. (See Bends). 

To Wear. To turn a ship round from the wind. 

To Warp. To move a ship by hawsers. 

Watch. A division of the ship's company, who keep the deck 
for a certain time. One is called starboard, and the other the 
larboard watch. 



288 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



Water-logged. The state of a leaky ship, when she is so full 
of water as to be heavy and unmanageable. 

Way of a Ship. Her progress through the water. 

To Weather a Ship. To get to windward of her. 

A Weather Tide. A tide or stream which runs to windward. 

Weather- Beaten. Anything worn or damaged by bad weather. 

To Weigh. To heave the anchor out of the ground. 

To Whip. To bind the end of a rope with yarn to prevent its 
untwisting ; also to hoist anything by a rope which is rove 
through a single block. 

Wirud?s-eye. That point from which the wind blows in a di- 
rect line. 

Between Wind and Water. That part of the ship's bottom 
which is just at the surface of the water, or what is called the 
water-line. 

To Wind a Boat, fyc. To turn it round from its original 
position. 

W'md-Rode. When a ship is kept astern, &c, of her anchor, 
solely by the wind. 

To Windward. Towards that point from which the wind 
blows. 

To Work to Windward. To make progress against the wind 
by tacking. 




PART XI 



TABLES 

RELATING TO 

RIGGING, BLOCKS, SPARS ANCHORS, CABLES, &c. 



290 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



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A Sketch, showing the Names of the different parts of an Anchor. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



291 



49 3. — A Table Showing the Weight, Size and Length 
of Guns and Carriages, U. S. Navy. 



SIZE OF GUNS. 



42 Pounder, Long Gun, - 

32 « - . - - . 

32 « 

32 " 

32 " 

32 « - . . - - 

32 « 

32 " 

32 « 

32 « 

32 « ■ . . - - . 

32 « 

24 " Long Medium 

24 " - - - - - 

24 " 

24 « 

18 « 

18 " 

18 « - - - - - 

12 « 

9 " ..... 

9 « - . . . . 

12 inch Peace Maker r - - 

10 inch Shell Gun, - - - 

8 " " -.- 

8 " " ... 

8 " « .-- 

8 '• " ... 

CARRONADES. 

42 Pounder, 

32 « ..... 

32 " ..... 

32 " - . - . - 

24 " ..... 

24 l < ..... 



WEIGHT OF 
GUN. 



cwt. qrs. lbs. 

70 
61 
51 

60 

50 

42 2 

61 2 
41 
41 
32 

51 

43 
49 
49 
49 
32 
38 0.0 
40 
36 
23 



18 

18 

150 

136 









3 9 



63 
68 2 

64 
53 



27 

20 

21 
19 
13 
15 



WEIGHT OF 
CARRIAGE. 



cwt. qrs. lbs. 



8 2 



8 1 

9 1 

8 



6 3 

6 3 

5 2 

5 2 

4 3 

3 3 



LENGTH OF 
GUN. 



7 2 



6 2 14 

5 2 

6 



1 
2 

4 
2 
4 

2 
2 


7 


4i 

H 

4 
7 

2 



TOTAL. 



9 

7 7 
6 8 
6 1 
5 11 



8 10 

9 1 

8 10 
8 4 

4 3 
4 1 

4 2 

3 7 
3 9 



cwt. qrs. lbs. 



59 2 



50 3 
70 3 



49 



55 3 

55 3 

43 2 

45 2 

27 3 

21 3 



34 2 



25 2 14 
18 2 
21 



292 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



494.— A Table showing the Weight of Chain Cable. 



150 Fathoms of 2£ inch weighs 



150 


u 


2* 


150 


u 


2 


150 


u 


m 


150 


a 


H 


150 


u 


if 


150 


u 


m 


150 


« 


if 


150 


a 


if 


150 


a 


i* 


150 


u 


H 



Pounds. 


- 45 


249 


- 37 


400 


- 37 


372 


- 34 


125 


- 32 225 


- 27 


192 


- 25 


350 


- 23 


934 


- 17 204 


- 14 384 


- 11 


921 



495. — A Table showing how many Fathoms make 112 
Pounds of 4-strand shroud-laid Rope. 



486 fath. feet in. of 


313 ' 


3 


" 





« 


216 < 


3 


(i 





ft 


159 ' 


3 


ft 





" 


124 ' 


3 


ft 





" 


96 < 


2 


(( 





(( 


77 ' 


3 


" 





» 


65 ' 


4 


ft 





<< 


54 < 





a 





" 


45 < 


5 


c< 


2 


<{ 


39 ' 


3 


" 





ft 


34 ' 


3 


C( 


9 


u 


30 ' 


1 


(( 


6 


ft 


26 < 


5 


ft 





a 


24 < 





a 





ft 


21 ' 


3 


" 





ft 


19 ' 


3 


a 





ft 


17 « 


4 


« 





ft 


16 « 


1 


f< 





(( 


14 < 


4 


ft 





a 


13 ' 


3 


(( 





a 


12 « 


2 


ft 





IC 


11 < 


3 


« 





u 


10 « 


4 


" 





(< 


9 < 


5 


(( 





" 


9 < 


1 


" 





(i 


8 ' 


4 


(i 





a 



1 inch 


in si 


ze. 


8 fath. 3 feet 6 in. 


n « 






7 < 


' 3 " 6 « 


1J 






7 ' 


< " 8 < : 


If 






6 < 


< 4 " 3 « 


2 






6 < 


i 2 ic i » 


2i « 






6 < 


« o « » 


2ft < 






5 ' 


« 4 « o ■ « 


2| < 






5 ' 


« 2 « " 


3 < 






5 « 


« « « 


3* ' 






4 ' 


c 5 « o « 


3| < 






4 < 


« 4 « 1 " 


3| ' 






4 < 


' 2 « 1 <( 


4 






4 ' 


i I « o " 


4* ' 






4 ' 


' " 3 « 


4* < 






3 ( 


i 5 « 7 ft 


4f ' 






3 « 


« 4 « 1 « 


5 






3 < 


t 3 «« 3 « 


5i ' 






3 ' 


' 2 " 3 « 


5£ ' 






3 « 


' 2 » 1 " 


5f < 






3 ' 


' 2 " << 


6 






3 < 


« 1 « 8 « 


6* ' 






2 : 


< 5 » 3 « 


61 ' 






2 ' 


« 4 « 9 « 


6| ■ 






2 ' 


< 4 « « 


7 






2 < 


c 3 « 6 c« 


7i ' 






2 ■ 


< 2 " 4 « 


7§ < 











of 7f inches 


in size. 


8 


<t 


ft 


8ft 


« 


<( 


8| 


ft 


ft 


8| 


" 


ft 


9 


ft 


ft 


9i 


ft 


<( 


9| 


a 


ft 


91 


ft 


« 


10 


ft 


ft 


10* 


•< 


« 


10* 


ft 


ft 


10| 


« 


ft 


11 


c( 


ft 


Hi 


ft 


ft 


m 


ft 


ft 


iii 


ft 


ft 


12 


ft 


u 


12i 


ft 


ft 


18ft 


ft 


ft 


12| 


« 


ft 


13 


(( 


ft 


134 


« 


<( 


13ft 


ft 


ft 


13| 


ft 


« 


14 


ft 


ft 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



293 



496. — Weight of one Foot of Bar Iron of the following 

forms. 



THICKNESS. 


SQUARE. 


OCTAGONAL. 


ROUND. 


THICKNESS. 


SQUARE. 


OCTAGONAL. 


ROUND. 


Inches. 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Inches. 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


3 


29.45 


24.27 


23.14 


u 


5.11 


4.14 


4.02 


2k 


20.45 


16.85 


16.07 


11 


4.14 


3.41 


3.25 


2* 


16.56 


13.65 


13.02 


1 


3.27 


2.70 


2.57 


2 


13.09 


10.79 


10.29 


5 


2.51 


2.06 


1.97 


n 


11.50 


9.48 


9.04 


a 


1.84 


1.52 


1.45 


if 


10.02 


8.26 


7.87 


f 


1.28 


1.05 


1.00 


if 


8.64 


7.12 


6.79 


1 


.81 


.67 


.64 


i* 


7.36 


6.07 


5.78 


f 


.46 


.38 


.36 


it 


6.19 


5.10 


4.86 


1 


.17 


.17 


.16 



Note. — The above Table shows pounds and hundredths of pounds. 



497.— A Table showing the Weight of 100 Fathoms of 
Cable-laid Rope, from 2 to 26 inches. 

ALSO A COMPARATIVE SIZE OF CHAIN. 









z ^ 








z J 


SIZE. 


THREADS. 


WEIGHT. 


2 * 

og 


SIZE. 


THREADS. 


WEIGHT. 


g ef 






cwt. qrs. lbs. 








cwt qrs. lbs. 




2 


27 


3 26 




14| 


1098 


40 1 12 


1* 


21 


36 


1 1 8 




15 


1170 


43 1 




3 


54 


1 3 25 




15h 


1251 


45 3 26 


11 


31 


72 


2 2 16 




16 


1332 


48 3 24 




4 


99 


3 1 6 


I 


161 


1413 


51 3 21 




44 


108 


3 3 24 




17 


1503 


55 1 


if 


5 


135 


4 3 23 




171 


1593 


58 2 6 




51 


162 


5 3 22 




18 


1683 


61 3 13 


1| 


6 


189 


6 3 21 




181 


1782 


65 2 1 




eh 


216 


7 3 21 




19 


1881 


69 17 


l* 


7 


252 


9 11 




19| 


1980 


72 3 4 




7| 


288 


10 2 9 




20 


2088 


76 3 1 




8 


336 


12 26 


I 


m 


2187 


80 1 16 ' 




si 


378 


13 3 15 




21 


2295 


84 1 14 


2 


9 


423 


15 2 25 




sni 


2403 


88 1 10 




?1 


468 


17 22 


7 


22 


2520 


92 2 16 




10 


522 


19 21 


1 


221 


2G46 


97 I 3 




m 


576 


21 19 


1 


23 


2763 


101 2 8 


2* 


a 


630 


23 18 




23A 


2S80 


105 3 14 




m 


684 


25 15 


H 


24 


3006 


110 2 1 


21 


12 


747 


27 1 23 


11 


24| 


3132 


115 16 




12£ 


810 


29 3 3 




25 


3235 


119 3 2 


2* 


13 


882 


32 1 19 




25§ 


3393 


124 2 16 




13§ 


954 


35 7 


H 


26 


3528 


129 2 22 


2* 


14 


1026 


37 2 24 











Note. — The Size Chain are set down opposite their respective Hemp Cables, 
as near as can be calculated, within a fraction. 



294 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



498. — 1 Table for showing* the Strength of Hemp Cables; 
their Weight, Size, and Number of Yarns in each. 









BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 




Size in Inches, 


Number of Yarns. 


Weight of 100 






Mean. 






Fathoms in lbs. 


Maximum. 


Minimum. 




26 


3528 


14112 


122.2 


105.9 


111.6 


25! 


3393 


13572 


117.5 


101.9 


107.3 


25 


3267 


13068 


113. 


98. 


103.2 


m 


3122 


12488 


114.4 


94.4 


102.5 


24 


3006 


12024 


115.7 


91. 


101.9 


23| 


2880 


11520 


117. 


87.6 


101.3 


23 


2763 


11052 


118.3 


84.2 


100.7 


22| 


2646 


10584 


119.5 


81. 


100.1 


22 


2529 


10116 


111.4 


77.9 


95. 


21! 


2412 


9648 


103.5 


74.9 


90.1 


21 


2304 


9216 


95.8 


72. 


85.3 


20| 


2196 


8784 


88.3 


69.2 


80.6 


20 


2088 


8352 


81. 


66.5 


76.1 


19^ 


1980 


7920 


76.7 


62.1 


71.3 


19 


188 L 


7524 


72.6 


57.9 


66.6 


18! 


1782 


7128 


68.6 


53.8 


62.1 


18 


1692 


6768 


64.7 


49.8 


57.7 


H! 


1597 


6388 


61. 


46. 


53.4 


17 


1512 


6048 


57.3 


44.9 


51. 


16! 


1422 


5688 


53.9 


43.8 


48.7 


16 


1332 


5328 


50.5 


42.8 


46.5 


15! 


1251 


5004 


47.3 


41.9 


44.3 


15 


1179 


4716 


44.2 


41. 


42.3 


14! 


1098 


4392 


41.6 


38.4 


39.9 


14 


1026 


4104 


39.1 


36. 


37.6 


13J 


954 


3816 


36.7 


33.6 


35.4 


13 


882 


3528 


34.4 


31.3 


33.3 


12! 


810 


3240 


32.2 


29.2 


31.3 


12 


756 


3024 


29.8 


26.6 


28.6 


HI 


693 


2772 


27.6 


24.2 


26.1 


11 


630 


2520 


25.5 


21.8 


23.7 


10! 


576 


2304 


23.4 


19.6 


21.4 


10 


522 


2088 


21.5 


17.5 


19.2 


9£ 


468 


1872 


19. 


15.7 


17.1 


9 


432 


1728 


16.7 


14. 


15.2 


*8! 


396 


1584 


14.6 


12.4 


13.4 


8 


315 


1260 


12.6 


10.9 


11.7 


7! 


288 


1152 


10.7 


9.5 


10.2 


7 


252 


1008 


9.3 


8.2 


8.8 


6! 


216 


864 


8.1 


7. 


7.5 


6 


189 


756 


7. 


5.8 


6.3 


5* 


162 


648 


5.9 


4.8 


5.3 


5 


135 


540 


5. 


3.9 


4.3 


4! 


108 


432 


4. 


3.1 


3.4 


4 


90 


360 


3.2 


2.5 


2.7 


3i 


69 


276 


2.4 


1.9 


2.1 


3 


54 


216 


1.8 


1.4 


1.5 



Note. — The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



29; 



499. — A Table showing* the Strength of Plain-laid Rope 
of three Strands. 



Size. 


Number of Yarns 
in Rope. 


Weight of 100 
Fathoms in lbs. 


BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 


Mean. 




Maximum. 


Minimum. 




12 


1173 


2940 


45.5 


35. 


40. 


iii 


1077 


_ 


41.7 


32. 


36.7 


li 


987 


_ 


38.2 


29.3 


33.6 


m 


900 


_ 


34.9 


26.7 


30.7 


10 


816 


2136 


31.7 


24.2 


27.9 


9* 


738 


_ 


28.6 


21.8 


25.2 


9 


660 


1712 


25.7 


19.6 


22.6 


8£ 


591 


_ 


23. 


17.5 


20.2 


8 


522 


1379 


20.4 


15.5 


18. 


n 


459 


_ 


18. 


13.6 


15.8 


7 


399 


_ 


15.8 


11.8 


13.8 


6* 


345 


— • 


13.7 


10.2 


12. 


6 


294 


834 


11.75 


8.7 


10.3 


5i 


249 


712 


9.8 


7.3 


8.7 


5 


204 


_ 


8.2 


6.1 


7.2 


H 


168 


413 


6.7 


5. 


5.9 


4 


132 


_ 


5.3 


4. 


4.7 


H 


102 


— 


4.1 


3.2 


3.7 


3 


75 


203 


3.1 


2.4 


2.8 


2 i 


54 


_ 


2.2 


1.8 


2.1 


2 


33 


_ 


1.5 


1.3 


1.4 


H 


27 


_ 


1.28 


1.13 


1.23 


H 


21 


— 


.90 


.86 


.88 


H 


15 


_ 


.60 


.53 


.56 


l 


12 


_ 


.58 


.46 


.51 


.a. 


9 


_ 


.51 


.42 


.46 


4 


6 


- 


.28 


.28 


.28 



Note. — The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons'. 




296 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



500. — A Table for showing the Strength of Chain Cable, 
as tested in Fifteen Fathom Lengths* 









BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 








Weight of 100 










Strain in Tons. 


Fathoms in lbs. 


Maximum. 


Minimum. 




2i 


91* 


27216 


130.3 ' 


121.8 


125.9 


2* 


811 


24276 


116.2 


108,6 


112.3 


2 


72 


21504 


103. 


96.25 


99.5 


if 


63i 


18900 


99. 


88. 


92.8 


If 


55i 


16464 


85.25 


65. 


74.1 


if 


47i 


14196 


75. 


59.5 


66.5 


ii 


40i 


12096 


65.5 


54.5 


59.5 


if 


34 


10164 


53.6 


44.4 


48.5 


it 


28* 


8400 


42.8 


35.3 


38.5 


H 


22f 


6804 


33. 


27. 


29.5 


i 


18 


5376 


27.25 


22. 


24.3 


2. 
f 


13f 


4116 


22.5 


20.3 


21.1 


10i 


3024 


15. 


12.5 


13.5 


ii 


8i 


2541 


12.3 


10:8 


11.4 


i 


7 


2100 


9.87 


9.37 


9.5 


■& 


5£ 


1701 








£ 


4i 


1344 


6.3 


5.9 


6. 



Note. — The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons. 




OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



297 



501. — A Table showing the Strength of Short Round- 
linked Bobstay, Bowsprit-shroud or Crane Chain, with- 
out Studs, such as is used for Rigging, &c. 







BREAKING STRAIN IN TONS. 








"Weight of 100 








Required Teat of 
Strength. 




Fathoms in lbs. 












Maximum. 


Minimum. 






If 


15569 


75. 


68. 


73. 


31.6 


H 


— 


64. 


58.2 


62.3 


27. 


1-& 


- 


59. 


53.8 


57.4 


24.7 


H 


- 


54.2 


49.6 


52.8 


. 22.6 


M 


- 


49.7 


45.5 


48.4 


20.6 


H 


- 


45.3 


41.7 


44.1 


18.8 


l & 


- 


41.2 


38. 


40.1 


17. 


4 


7481 


37.3 


34.5 


36.3 


15.3 


*tV 


- 


33.6 


31.2 


32.7 


13.6 


1 


6490 


30.1 


28.1 


29.3 


12. 


if 


5600 


26.8 


25.2 


26.1 


10.5 


§ 


4500 


23.7 


22.5 


23.1 


9.1 


JL3. 


4000 


20.9 


20. 


20.4 


7.9 


a. 


3449 


17.8 


16.6 


17.3 


6.8 


tt 


2900 


14.9 


13.5 


14.6 


5.6 


i 


2538 


12.3 


10.8 


12. 


4.6 


■& 


2001 


10. 


8.7 


9.7 


3.8 


i 


1583 


7.9 


6.9 


7.7 


3. 


T¥ 


1060 


6. 


5.2 


5.9 


2.3 


i 


827 


4.4 


3.8 


4.3 


1.6 


tV 


581 


3. 


2.7 


3. 


1.1 


JL 


392 


1.9 


1.7 


1.9 


.75 


tV 


- 


1.1 


.97 


1. 


.42 



Note. — The above Table shows tons and hundredths of tons. 



298 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR 



502. — Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned Statd 



Description of Timber. 



Weight of Cubic Foot 




Live Oak - 
White Oak 
Ked Oak - 
Hickory - - 
Locust - - 
Cypress - - 
Cedar - - 
Maple - - 
Yellow Pine 
White Pine 
Spruce - - 
Elm - - - 
Beech - - 
White Ash 



30 11 
28 14 
37 5 
53 6 
50 



Note. — The average weight of the different species, of timber, used 
in building and equipping ships-of-war in the United States 5 Navy, may 
be reckoned about 50 lbs. to the cubic foot. 



503. — A Table of Measures and Weights of different 

Substances. 



A ton of water (net weight), 250 gallons. Cub. in. lbs. oz. 

A cubic foot of Water (specific gravity) — 62 9 

" " Sea-water — 64-2 

" " New York Harbor-water — 63 14 

« « Cork — 15 

« " Tallow — 59 

Platina — 1218.75 

" " Copper ----- — 486.75 

Lead — 709.05 

Steel — 489.08 

Cast Iron - 450.45 

A Bushel of Beans 100. 63. 

A Cord of Wood (stowage) 128. 1700. 

The Weight of a Man and his Effects is from 2 to 2* cwt. 

N 0TE . — The above table will be found useful in making calculations of stow- 
age, and also in keeping the ship properly trimmed. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



299 



504.— A Table of Weight of Tarred Cordage. 







CABLES. 














cwt. qr. Iba. 










cwt. qr. lbs. 


130 Fathoms of 3 inch weighs 


2 3 20 


1 Fathom of 24 inch weighs 


11 4 


130 


" 


2i 


« 


2 5 




CI 


22 


' 




1 9 


130 


" 


2 


« 


1 1 6 




« 


20 


< 




3 16 


130 


« 


H 


K 


3 13 




(( 


19 


1 




3 6 


130 


» 


l 


« 


1 20 




II 


17 


* 




2 16 


130 


" 


1 


" 


1 4 




(( 


16 


i 




2 8 














" 


15 


1 




1 27 


HAWSERS OF 120 FATHC 


100 
100 


(( 

11 


14 
13£ 


1 




41 2 20 
38 3 1 


120 Fathoms of 9§ inch weighs 


22 2 9 


100 


(( 


13 


i 




35 3 9 


120 


" 


9 


K 


20 1 17 


100 


u 


12£ 


i 




32 3 17 


120 


" 


Sh 


(C 


18 26 


100 


u 


11$ 


< 




30 1 10 


120 


« 


8 


(( 


16 6 


100 


<( 


11 


i 




26 1 19 


120 


" 


7* 


" 


13 3 16 


100 


<t 


10i 


t 




23 1 17 


120 


" 


7 


" 


12 18 


100 


c< 


10 


I 




21 3 


120 


(( 


61 


<( 


10 1 19 












120 


« 


6 


<c 


9 12 


HA\ 


120 


" 


5h 


«( 


7 3 7 












120 


<( 


5 


<( 


6 2 1 


130 Fathoms of 6* inch weighs 13 1 11 


120 


" 


4| 


(( 


5 23 


130 


« 


6 




11 1 13 


120 


K 


4 


II 


4 18 


130 


" 


5* " 




9 2 2 


120 


" 


3| 


« 


3 1 22 


130 


" 


5 




7 3 19 


120 


" 


3 


<( 


2 2 11 


130 


C( 


4£ ■ 




6 1 22 


120 


(C 


2h 


<( 


1 3 


130 


» 


4 




5 6 14 


120 


u 


2 


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1 1 4 


130 


(C 


3J 






3 3 7 













505. — A Table showing the comparative Strength be- 
tween Iron Chains and Hemp Cabies. 

Also the Size required agreeably to Tonnage, with the Weight 
equal to Cable. 



SIZE OF CHAIN. 


Vessel's 


Size of 


Weight of 


Proof 


Weight per 




Tonnage. 


Rope. 


Anchor. 


required. 


Fathom. 


Five-sixteenths of an inch - - - 




2k 




I ton. 


5J 


Three-eighths " - - - 


- 


3i 


_ 


H 


8 


Seven-sixteenths " - - - 


_ 


4 


- 


2| 


11 


One-half " ... 


20 


4| 


l£cwt. 


3 


14 


Nine-sixteenth " - - - 


30 


5* 


2 


4| 


18 


Five-eighths " ... 


40 


6| 


2S 


6 


24 


Eleven-sixteenths " - - - 


50 


7 


3 


7£ 


28 


Three-quarters " ... 


60 


71 


4 


9 


32 


Thirteen-sixteenths " ... 


75 


8k 


4| 


11 


38 


Seven-eighths " - - - 


95 


9i 


5| 


13 


44 


Fifteen-sixteenths " - - - 


120 


10 


61 


15 


50 


One inch -------- 


150 


lOf 


8 


17 


56 


One and one-sixteenth inch - - 


180 


114 


9 


19 


62 


One and one-eighth inch - - - 


210 


12 


10£ 


21| 


70 


One and three-sixteenths inch 


240 


12f 


12 


24 


78 


One and one-quarter inch - - - 


280 


13i 


13| 


27 


86 


One and five-sixteenths inch - - 


320 


14| 


15 


30 


96 


One and three-eighths inch - - 


360 


15 


m 


33 


108 


One and seven-sixteenths inch - 


400 


15| 


18 


36 


115 


One and one-half inch - - - - 


450 


16 


20 


40 


125 



300 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 



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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



301 



507.— Cordage Table, showing the Weight of one Fathom 
Rope, from 1 inch to 24 inches inclusive, plain laid 
3-strand, such as used for running rigging, &c. 



Size Rope. 






lbs. oz. 


Size K 


1 inch 


weighs - 


. - . 


•3f 


9i 


H " 


« 


- - - 


.5f 


9i 


l* « 


K 


- - - 


.Si 


9* 


{ A « 


" 


- - - 


AH 


9f 


2 « 


« 


- 


.14f 


10 


2* « 


a 


- , - 


1.2f 


10J 


2* « 


« 


- - - 


1.7 


10* 


2f « 


« 


- - . 


l.H-l 


lOf 


3 « 


a 


- - 


2.1* 


11 


3* « 


a 


- - - 


2.7 


ll i 


3* « 


• i 




2.13* 


11* 


3f « 


a 


- . - 


3.2f 


llf 


4 " 


n 


- - - 


3.11 


12 


4* " 


u 


. 


4. If 


12 i 


4* " 


« 


- - - 


4.10f 


12* 


4f « 


« 


. - - 


5.3f 


12f 


5 « 


« 


... 


5.12* 


13 


5* " 


« 


- - - 


6.5f 


l H 


5* " 


" 


- - - 


7. 


13* 


5f « 


« 


_ - . 


7.9* 


13-g- 


6 « 


« 


... 


8.4f 


14 


6* " 


« 


- - - 


9. 


15 


6* « 


« 


- . - 


9.1 If 


16 


6f " 


« 


- - - 


10.8 


17 


7 " 


« 


- - - 


H.4f 


18 


7£ " 


a 


... 


12.2 


19 


7* " 


« 


- - - 


13.0* 


20 


7} " 


« 


- - - 


13.13f 


21 


8 « 


« 


- - - 


14.12* 


22 


8£ " 


« 


- . - 


15.11* 


23 


8* " 


« 


- - - 


16.10* 


24 


8f « 


« 


- - - 


17.10* 





9 inch weighs - - 



18.10-f 

19.1 If 

20.13f 

21.14| 

23.1* 

24.3* 

25.7 

26. llf 

27.14£ 

29.1* 

30.9 

31.14 

33.3 

34.9* 

36. 

37.8 

38.15 

40.8* 

42. 

43.9* 

45.4} 

52.0* 

59.5 

66.10 

74.10 

83.2 

92.11 

102.1 

112. 

122.3 

134.6 



Rule to find the weight of any sized Rope. — A rope of 1 inch circumference re- 
quires 486 fathoms to make one hundred weight. The superficial part of all cir- 
cles being in proportion to the square of their diameters, consequently the square 
of their circumference. Therefore, a rope of 1 inch in circumference, whose 
square is one, has 486 fathoms to a cwt. ; and, therefore, 486 being divided by 
the square of the circumference of any rope, the quotient will give the number of 
fathoms. For instance, 

9X9 = 81)486(6. The number of fathoms in a cwt. 
486 

Rule to find the weight of 120 fathoms of any sized Cable. — Multiply the circum- 
ference by the circumference, and divide the product by 4, and the quotient will 
be the number of cwts. in 120 fathoms. 



302 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



303 



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304 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 



5io. — A Table showing the Quantity of Provisions, Slop 
Clothing and Small Stores, for 200 men, for four months, 
in the U. S. Navy. 



SMALL STORES. 

Tobacco (plugs) - - - - 
Soap (bars) ------ 

Mustard (bottles) - - - - 
Pepper (bottles) ----- 
Knives (1 each) - - - - 
Spoons (1 each) - - - - - 
Fine Combs (1 each) - - - 
Coarse Combs (1 each) - - 
Tin Pots (1 each) - - - - 
Tin Pans (1 each) - - - - 
Scrubbing Brushes (1 each) 
Ribbon (pieces) ----- 

Tape (pieces) 

Needles (papers) - - - - 
White Thread (pounds) - - 
Blue Thread (pounds) - - 
Thimbles (1 each) - - - - 
Beeswax (cakes) - - - - 
Blacking (boxes) 1 - - - - 
Scissors (1 pair each) - - - 
Shoe Brushes (1 pair each) - 
Mittens (1 pair each) - - - 
Cotton Handkerchiefs - - 

SLOP CLOTHING. 

Mattresses (1 each) - - - - 
Blankets (2 each) - - - - 



1,000 
800 
100 
100 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
200 
100 
100 
100 
50 
50 
200 
100 
200 
200 
200 
200 
50 



200 
400 



Pea-jackets ------ 

Trowsers (1 pair each) - - 
Duck Frocks (1 each) - - 
Duck Trowsers (2 pairs each) 
White Flannel Shirts (2 each) 
Blue Flannel Shirts (2 each) 
Drawers (2 pairs each) - - 

Hats (1 each) 

Shoes (1 pair each) - - - 
Stockings (2 pairs each) - - ■ 
Black Handkerchiefs (1 each) 
Boots (1 pair each) - - - 

PROVISIONS. 

Bread (pounds) 22,320 

Beef (pounds) 14,652 

Pork (pounds) 10,914 

Flour (pounds) 1.819 

Raisins (pounds) ----- '910 



100 

200 
200 
400 
400 
400 
400 
200 
200 
400 
200 
200 



Tea (pounds) 
Sugar (pounds) - 
Rice (pounds) - 
Beans (pounds) - 
Pickles (pounds) 
Vinegar (gallons) 
Spirits (gallons) 



400 
3,210 
3,636 
5,460 
1,819 
228 
750 



Allowing per centagefor waste. 



N. B.— All recruits, when received on board of receiving-ships of the U. S. 
Navy, are required to have an outfit in slop clothing, &c, of one blue clcth jacket, 
one pair of blue cloth trowsers, 2 duck frocks, one pair of duck trowsers, two blue 
flannel shirts, one pair of drawers, one hat, one pair of shoes, two pairs of stock- 
ings, one black silk handkerchief, two pounds of tobacco, two pounds of soap, one 
knife, one tin pot, pan and spoon ; the greater part of which they have when 
transferred to vessels for sea-service. This being the case, there is no necessity 
for having the full amount, as above stated, in slops and small stores in the pur- 
ser's department, for issue in the course of four months. 



QUANTITY OF WATER FOR EACH CLASS. 

Ships of the Line — Three Decks, 110,000 gallons ; Two Decks 
—1st Class, 82,000 gals. ; 2d Class, 78,000 gals. ; Razees, 55,000 
gals. ; Frigates— 32 Pounder. 48,000 gals. ; 24 Pounder, 43,000 
gals. ; 18 Pounder, 34,900 gals. ; Sloops— 32 Pounder, 21,000 
gals. ; 24 Pounder, 19,000 gals. ; Sixteen 32 lb. Carronades, 
15,000 gals. ; Brigs, 8,000 gals. ; Brigantines and Schooners 
7,900 gals. ; Steamers— 1st Class, 23,500 gals. ; 2d Class, 10,000 
gals. ; 3d Class, 5,000 gals. ; Receiving Vessels — Ships of the 
Line, 14,600 gals. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS* ASSISTANT. 



305 



511. — Exhibit of the Navy Ration, 

Showing the component parts for each day of the week, and the vahie at 
which they are to be computed, under the 2d, Mh and 5th Sections of 
the Act of Congress, " To establish and regulate the Navy Ration," ap- 
proved 29th August, 1842. 





Pounds. 


Ounces* 


Pints. 


Days of the Week. 


0) 

M 

1 

1 

1 
1 

4 


o 

Ol, 


3 

fa 


a 

s 


2 

o'| 

"ST5 

■a-g 


.as 

faO 


Q 


3 

M 

■f) 


* £ 8 

<o o o 
H O O 


5 

a 
oa 


9 

B 
B 

o 


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« 
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pq 

2- 
i 

I 
2 


■ 

1 

c 
1 

2 
1 


3" 
bo 

c 

_> 

1 

2 
1 


4 




Either. 


s 


Sunday ------- 

Monday 

Tuesday ------- 

Wednesday - - - - - 

Thursday ------ 

Friday ------- 

Saturday 

Weekly Gluantity - - - 


1 
1 

1 
3 


h 
h 
1 


1 

2 

1 
2 

1 


4 

i 

i 


i 

i 

h 


14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
14 

98 


2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 

2 

14 


I 

4 

4 

I 
4 

1 

1 

! 

i 

i 


1 
1 
1 
1 

1 

1 

7 


7 


2 

2 
4 


2 
2 
4 


J 

i 

i 

1 
4 

i 

i 

H 



VALUATION OF THE WEEKLY GLUANTITY, &c. 



3 pounds 


of Pork 


- 


- lh 


cents pei 


pound, 


- 


- 


- 


22£ cents 


4 " 


Beef 


- 


- 6 


" 


« 


- 


- 


- 


24 « 


1 " 


Flour 


- 


- 4 


<( 


« 


_ 


- 


. 


4 « 


1 " 


Rice 


- 


- 3 


" 


(C 


_ 


_ 


_ 


3 " 


i " 


Raisins, &c. 


- 


- 13 


" 


(C 


- 


- 


- 


6* « 


i " 


Pickles, &c. 


- 


- 12J 


<( 


M 


- 


- 


- 


6* " 


98 ounces 


of Bread 


- 


- 4 


u 


(( 


. 


- 


_ 


24* " 


14 


Sugar 


- 


- 8 


u 


(« 


- 


- 


- 


7 « 


If « 


Tea ) 


















7 


Coffee > of same 


ral. 80 


u 


(( 


. 


_ 


_ 


8| « 


7 " 


Cocoa ) 


















4 


Butter - 


. 


- 23 


ti 


.« 


. 


_ 


_ 


5| " 


« 


Cheese - 


- 


- 16 


u 


« 


. 


- 


_ 


4 « 


1£ pints 


of Beans 


- 


- 24 


It 


gallon 


- 


- 


- 


4£ « 


i " 


Molasses 


- 


- 64 


(( 


u 


- 


- 


_ 


4 « 


£ " 


Vinegar - 


- 


- 20 


« 


(C 


- 


_ 


- 


H " 


If " 


Spirits - 


- 


- 64 


u 


C( 


- 


- 


- 


14 « 



Averaging 20 cents per day, or weekly 



SI. 40 



The foregoing exhibit of the component parts, &c, of the Navy Ra- 
tion, has been compiled in pursuance of the act of Congress, and will 
be strictly observed by commanders of vessels and by pursers, as a 
regulation of this Department, prescribing the daily issue of provisions, 
and the valuation at which they are to be commuted. All persons 
" attached to vessels for sea-service, : ' are entitled individually to one 
ration per day. 

Every commissioned or warrant-officer, of, or over, twenty-one years 
of age. may, at his option, commute the entire ration, or only the spirit 
20 



306 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 

portion of it : provided the commutation, in either case, be made for 
not less than three consecutive months. And every other person, of 
the above-named age, entitled to a ration, may commute the spirit 
component, under the limitation of time, unless sooner detached, or 
entitled to a discharge. 

No officer or other person, under twenty-one years of age, shall be 
permitted to draw the spirit part of his ration. Its value in money, 
as estimated by the foregoing table, will be credited to him by the 
purser, and paid whenever the commander of the vessel, to which such 
officer or person may belong, shall direct. 

The messes of a ship's crew may, with the sanction of the command- 
ing officer, commute, daily or weekly, one or more entire rations, for 
not less than three months (unless sooner detached, or entitled to a 
discharge) ; the commutation to be paid by the purser, at such times 
as the said commanding officer shall deem fit. 

Pursers having the delivery of rations, will make out and transmit, 
monthly and otherwise, by the earliest opportunities, to the Bureau of 
Provisions and Clothing of this Department, abstracts of provisions, 
agreeably to such forms as may be furnished to them from that bureau, 
approved by the Second Comptroller of the Treasury ; their provision 
accounts, as heretofore, will be rendered to the Fourth Auditor's 
office. 

A. P. UPSHUR, Secretary of the Navy. 



AN ACT TO ESTABLISH AND REGULATE THE NAVY 

RATION. 

Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of 
the United States of America, in Congress assembled. That the navy 
ration shall consist of the following daily allowance of provisions for 
each person : — One pound of salted pork, with half a pint of peas or 
beans ; or one pound of salted beef, with half a pound of flour, and a 
quarter of a pound of raisins, dried apples, or other dried fruits ; or 
one pound of salt beef, with half a pound of rice, two ounces of butter, 
and two ounces of cheese ; together with fourteen ounces of biscuit, 
one quarter of an ounce of tea, or one ounce of coffee, or one ounce of 
cocoa, two ounces of sugar, and one gill of spirits ; and of a weekly 
allowance of half a found of pickles or cranberries, half a pint of molas- 
ses, and half a pint of vinegar. 

Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That fresh meat may be substituted 
for salt beef or pork, and vegetables or sauer-kraut for other articles 
usually issued with the salted meats, allowing one and a quarter pounds 
of fresh meat for one pound of salted beef or pork, and regulating the 
quantity of vegetables or sauer-kraut, so as to equal che value of those 
articles for which they may be substituted. 

Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That, should it be necessary to vary 
the above described daily allowance, it shall be lawful to substitute one 
pound of soft bread, or one pound of flour, or half a pound of rice, for 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



307 



fourteen ounces of biscuit ; half a pint of wine for a gill of spirits ; 
half a pound of rice for half a pint of peas or beans ; half a pint of 
beans or peas for half a pound of rice. When it may be deemed ex- 
pedient by the President of the United States, Secretary of the Navy, 
commander of a fleet or squadron, or a single ship, when not acting 
under the authority of another officer on foreign service, the articles 
of butter, cheese, raisins, dried apples (or other dried fruits), pickles 
and molasses may be substituted for each other and for spirits ; pro- 
vided the article substituted shall not exceed in value the article for 
which it may be issued, according to the scale of prices which is or 
may be established for the same. 

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted. That in cases of necessity the daily 
allowance of provisions may be diminished or varied, by the discretion 
of the senior officer present in command ; but payment shall be made 
to the persons whose allowance shall be thus diminished, according to 
the scale of prices which is or may be established for the same ; but a 
commander, who shall thus make a diminution or variation, shall report 
to his commanding officer, or to the Navy Department, the necessity 
for the same, and give to the purser written orders, specifying particu- 
larly the diminution or reduction which is to be made. 

Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That no commissioned officer, or 
midshipman, or any person under twenty-one years of age. shall be 
allowed to draw the spirit part of the daily ration ; and all other per- 
sons shall be permitted to relinquish that part of their ration, under 
such restrictions as the President of the United States may autho- 
rize ; and to every person who, by this section, is prohibited from 
drawing, or who may relinquish, the spirit part of his ration, there 
shall be paid, in lieu thereof, the value of the same in money, accord- 
ing to the prices which are or may be established for the same. 

Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That the provisions of this act shall 
go into effect, in the United States, on the first day of the succeeding 
quarter after it becomes a law ; and in vessels abroad, on the first day 
of the succeeding quarter after its official receipt ; and any acts, or 
parts of acts, which may be contrary to, or inconsistent with, the pro- 
visions of this act, shall be and are hereby repealed. 




BERTH-DECK, OR SAILORS' MESS-TABLE. 



308 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



512.-TABLE 

For finding the Distance of an Object by two Bearings^ and 
the Distance run between them. 





1 


1 « - ,A 
ggf 


DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE COURSE AND FIRST BEARING IN POINTS 


sl-s 


OF THE COMPASS. 


2S.S 

hs§l 

|j OOCQ 

1 3i 
4 




2 


2* 


3 


3*. 


4 


4| 


5 


5* 


6 


6i 


7 


7i 

' 2 


8 


A 


9 


9* 


10 


1.00 


































4* 


0.81 


1.23 
































5 


0.69 


1.00 


1.45 






























5* 


0.60 


0.85 


1.17 


1.66 




























6 


0.54 


0.74 


1.00 


1.35 


1.85 


























6* 


0.49 


0.67 


0.88 


1.14 


1.50 


2.02 
























7 


0.46 


0.61 


0.79 


1.00 


1.27 


1.64 


2.17 






















7* 


0.43 


0.57 


0.72 


0.90 


1.11 


1.39 


1.77 


2.30 




















8 


0.41 


0.53 


0.67 


0.82 


1.00 


1.22 


1.50 


1.87 


2.41 


















8* 


0.40 


0.51 


0.63 


0.76 


0.92 


1.09 


1.31 


1.58 


1.96 


2.50 
















9 


0.39 


0.49 


0.60 


0.72 


0.85 


1.00 


1.18 


1.39 


1.66 


2.03 


2.56 














9i 


0.38 


0.48 


0.58 


0.69 


0.80 


0.93 


1.08 


1.25 


1.46 


1.72 


2.08 


2.60 












10 


0.38 


0.47 


0.57 


0.66 


0.76 


0.88 


1.00 


1.14 


1.31 


1.51 


1.76 


2.11 


2.61 










10* 


0.38 


0.47 


0.56 


0.65 


0.74 


0.84 


0.94 


1.06 


1.19 


1.35 


1.55 


1.79 


2.12 


2.60 








11 


0.39 


0.47 


0.56 


0.64 


0.72 


0.81 


0.90 


1.00 


1.11 


1.24 


1.39 


1.57 


1.80 


2.11 


2.56 






11* 


0.40 


0.48 


0.56 


0.63 


0.71 


0.79 


0.87 


0.95 


1.05 


1.15 


1.27 


1.41 


1.58 


1.79 


2.08 


2.50 




! 12 


0.41 


0.49 


0.57 


0.64 


0.71 


0.78 


0.85 


0.92 


1.00 


1,08 


1.18 


1.29 


1.41 


1.57 


1.76 


2.03 


2.41 


12* 


0.43 


0.51 


0.58 


0.65 


0.71 


0.77 


0.83 


0.90 


0.97 


1.03 


1.11 


1.20 


1.29 


1.41 


1.55il.72 


1.96 



The Table is to be entered with the number of points con- 
tained between the ships head and the first bearing of the object, 
at the top, and with the number of points, reckoned the same 
way, between the ship's head and the second bearing, at the 
side ; the number in the table at the intersection of the two col- 
umns being multiplied by the distance run, is the distance from 
the object at the time the last bearing was taken. 

Example. — A Light-house bears N. W., and after running 
W. by S. 8 miles, it bears N. N. E. ; the number of points be- 
tween W. by S. and N. W. is 5, and that between W. by S. and 
N. N. E. is 11 ; then under 5 points at the top, and abreast of 11 
points at the side, stands the number 0.9, which being multi- 
plied by 8 gives 7.2 miles, the distance at the time of the last 
(N. N. E.) bearing. 

If the bearings are observed to quarter points, the numbers 
may be taken out accordingly ; this needs no example. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



309 



513. — Dimensions of the Masts and Spars of the U. S. 
Steam-ship Princeton. 

Above Deck. 

49 ft. 2 in. Fore-mast, 70 ft. Head, 
53 ft. Main-mast, 74 ft. " 

46 ft. 8 in. Mizen-mast, 54 ft. 6 in. " 
Fore and Main Top-mast, 42 ft. " 

Do. Top-gallant M., 22 ft. Hoist, 1 4 ft. 6 in. Royal 9 ft. Pole-cap, 8£ in. 

Mizen Top-mast, 33 ft. Head, 5 ft. 6 in. Cap, 1 1 in. 

" Top-gallant Mast, 18 ft. Hoist, 12 ft. Royal, 7 ft. Pole, 6f in. 



12 ft. 


Diameter, 24£ in. 


12 ft. 


a 


25 in. 


10 ft. 


u 


18iin. 


7 ft. 6 in 


Cap, 


.14} in. 



Ft. In. 

Fore and Main Yard, - - - 68. 

" « Top Yard, - - 54. 

" " Top-gaFt Yard, 37. 

" " Royal Yard, - 25.6 
Mizen Yard, ------ 54. 

• 39. 

■ 26.6 
19. 
25.6 
24. 

■ 19. 

■ 47.6 

■ 39. 
45.6 

Top-mast Steering-sail Booms, 35. 



" Top Yard, - - 
" Top-gallant Yard, 

" Royal Yard, - - 

Bowsprit (Outboard), - 

Jib-boom " 

Flying " " 

Spanker-boom, - - - 

Spanker-gaff, - - - - 

Swinging-booms 



T. G. M. 

Royal " 

Lower " 

Top-mast " 

t. a. m. " 

Royal « 
Mizen Try-sail Mast, 



Yards, 



28. 
19. 
17. 
21. 
16. 
10. 
38. 



Ft. 

Arms, 4 
it 



U 



In. Inch. 

Sling, 15£ 

.6 " 

6 " 

.3 " 
u 

a 

a 

u 



Inb'd, 20 ft. Head, 3. 

- - - - "5. 

- - - - "2. 
--- - "8. 



13 
7f 

5* 
13 
9 

6} 
4 

Bed, 25 
Cap, 13| 

" 8 
Slings, 9 
7 
8 
7 

5i 
3* 
5 
5 
4 
3 
7£ 



The Fore-mast from top of deck to top of kelson is buried, 
The Main-mast " " " " " 

The Mizen-mast " " " " 

Which leaves the Fore-mast just 

And the Main-mast, 

Length between perpendiculars, - 
Length of Spar-deck, - 
Length of Keel, - 

Extreme breadth of Beam, - 
Depth of Hold to Spar-deck, - 
Dead rise at half breadth, - 



Ft. In. 

20. 4 

20. 7 

7.10 

69. 8 

73. 7 

156. 

165. 2 

142. 9 

30. 

21. 

2. 



8 



310 



THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



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P* O H 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



311 



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312 515. — A Table showing the Dimensions of the Masts 

FRENCH SHIPS AS PUBLISHED, AND 





Three-deck Ships. 


Two-deck Ships. 




AMERICAN. 


ENGLISH. 


FRENCH. 


First Class. 




AMERICAN. 


ENGLISH. 




a 

3 


| 
5 


J3 

s 
<u 

(J 


0) 

I 

a 


60 

a 
<o 
►J 


"5 
S 

ed 

(5 


4 

a 


<o 

s 

.a 

Q 


i . 

a 

(J 


S 

at 
Q 




Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft In. 


Inch 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


Length of Lower-deck - - 
Breadth Extreme - - - - 


- 


- 


205. 
54.6 


— 


206.6 
59.6 


- 


- 


- 


193.10 
51.5 


- 


Main Mast to the hound - 
Main Mast head - - - - 
MainTop-mast to the hound 
Main Top-mast head - - 
Main Top-gallant Mast to 

the hound ----- 
Main Top-gallant Mast 

pole 


132. 
22. 
70. 
12. 

41. 
24. 


41. 

21.5 

12. 
9.5 


106.7 
20.7 
64.11 
10.1 

33. 

23. 


41 
22 

m 


109.8 

18.1 

68.5 

9.4 

35.2 

19.2 


41* 

23f 

12f 


124.6 
20. 
70. 
12. 

41. 

24. 


40. 

21.5 

12. 
9.5 


101.7 

19.8 

59.8 

9.7 

30.5 

21.6 


39i 
20| 

Hi 


i 
Fore Mast to the hound - 1 
Fore Mast head - - . - ! 
Fore Top-mast to the hound 
Fore Top-Mast head - - 
Fore Top-gallant Mast to 

the hound 

Fore Top-gallant Mast 

pole 


120. 
20. 
63. 
10.6 

37.6 

22. 


37. 
21.5 

12. 

8.7£ 


98.11 

19.1 

52.2 

9.2 

30.1 

21. 


38 

22 

11 


102.2 
17. 
62.10 
8.6 

30.11 

17. 


39| 
23| 

Hi 


115. 

18. 
63. 
10.6 

37.6 

-22. 


36.5 
21.5 

12. 

8.7| 


92.6 
18.6 
53.10 

8.8 

26.4 

20. 


37 

20f 

10 


Mizen Mast to the hound - 
Mizen Mast head - •- - 
MizenTop mast tothe hound 
Mizen Top-mast head - - 
Mizen Top-gallant Mast to 

the hound^ - - - - - 
Mizen Top-gallant Mast 

pole - 


110. 
17. 
55. 

9. 

33.6 
20. 


•27. 
16.5 

9.5 

7. 


73.4 
12.9 
46.6 

7.4 

22. 
15. 


25 
14| 

8| 


76.7 
11.8 

48. 
6.4 

27.11 

14.11 


275 
14f 

9i 


105. 

16. 

55. 

9. 

33.6 

20. 


26.5 
16.5 

9.5 

7. 


71.2 

12.10 

43.9 

7. 

21.7 
17.6 


25| 
14 

8* 


Main Yard 

Fore Yard ------ 

Cross-Jack Yard ------ 


110. 

100. 

80. 


24. 

23. 
16. 


109.3 
95. 

78.8 


26 

22| 

16| 


117. 

106.6 

92. 


27| 
25£ 
195 


107.6 
96. 

80. 


23.5 
21.5 
16. 


103.3 
89.9 
74.3 


24| 
21* 
16 


Main Top-sail Yard - - 
Fore Top-sail Yard - - - 
Mizen Top-sail Yard - - 


82. 
75. 
52. 


18. 
16. 
11. 


78.8 

69. 

52.6 


16J 
14| 

11 


82.4 
78.6 
60.8 


17 
17 
13& 


78. 
71. 
52. 


17.5 

16. 

11. 


74.3 

64.8 
49. 


16 

I3g 
10} 


Main Top-gallant Yard - 
Fore Top-gallant Yard 
Mizen Top-ga.lant Yard - 


52. 

48. 
33. 


10. 
9.5 
6. 


51.10 

46.3 

36.3 


10| 

9^ 

7* 


54.4 

48.11 

42.7 


10| 
9 

8* 


52. 

46. 
33. 


10.5 
9.5 
6.5 


46. 

38.10 

34. 


9! 

8 
7 


Bowsprit 

Sprit-sail Yard - - - - 
Spanker Boon- - - - - 
Gaff 


81. 
52. 
60. 
38. 


11. 

13. 

9. 


75.1 
69. 
74.4 
55.9 


37 
14| 
14| 
12* 


74.6 
72.5 


40* 
I6h 


78. 
52. 
60. 

38. 


11. 

13. 

9. 


71.11 

64.8 
70.2 
43. 


36 
13§ 

13J 

7! 


Jib-Boom - 


60. 


Cap 

16.5 


46.3 


Oh 


63.11 


17 


60. 


Cap. 

16.5 


50. 


14^ 



and Yards of American, English and French Ships. 

REDUCED TO ENGLISH MEASURE. 



313 



Two 


-deck Ships* 


Frigates. 


1st Class. 


2d Class.. 


AMERICAN. 


ENGLISH. 




FRENCH. 


AMERICAN 


ENGLISH. 


FRENCH. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 




a> 
►J 


g 

5 


A 
to 
c 
o 


5 


J3 

c 


S 

s 
3 


A 

a 


a 

S 

5 


5 


a 
§ 

s 


c 


i 

3 


c 

•3 


0> 

§ 

5 


rj 

a 


I 
3 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


Ft In. 


Inch 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


Ft. In. 


Inch 


191.8 
50. 


"" 


— 


- 


176. 
47.6 


- 


179.11 

47. 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


151.5 
40.1 


- 


151.2 

38.4 




105.5 

17. 

65.5 

9. 


38i 
21| 


117. 
20. 
70. 
10. 


36.5 
21.5 


93. 

18. 
56.2 
9.1 


36 

m 


95.8 

15.11 

60.2 

9. 


36| 
20* 


105. 
18. 
63. 
9.7 


34.6 
19.3 


95. 
16. 
56. 
9.6 


31.5 
17. 


77.6 
15. 
46.10 
7.6 


28 
161 


81.2 
13.1 
52.10 
7.11 


29i 
171 


34.2 


llf 


41. 


12. 


29.0^ 


a 


33. 


in 


37.6 


11. 


33.6 


10. 


23.8 


9 


30.11 


101 


18.1 


- 


24. 


9.5 


21. 


- 


13. 


- 


22. 


8.8 


20. 


6.6 


19. 


- 


17. 




95.11 
15.11 
59.11 

8.2 


36| 
21! 


105. 
18. 
63. 
10.6 


33. 
21.5 


84.9 
16.6 
50. 

8. 


- 


88,5 

14.11 

57.11 

7. 


36h 

20j 


95. 
16. 
56. 
9.6 


31.5 
19.3 


86. 

14.6 

51. 

8.4 


28. 
17. 


71.1 

13.9 

41.6 

6.8 


25 

16| 


72.1 
12.1 
48.1 

7.2 


26* 
171 


•29.10 


1<H 


37.6 


12. 


25.31 


9f 


29.10 


111 


33.6 


11. 


30. 


10. 


20.5 


7! 


27.8 


10| 


15.11 


- 


22. 


8.71 


19.6 


- 


10.7 


- 


20. 


7.5 


18. 


6.6 


17.6 


- 


14.11 




67.11 
10.7 
46.5 
5.11 


24* 

13| 


98. 
16. 
53. 
5.9 


26. 
16. 


66.7 
11.1 
41.4 

6.8 


23f 
13 


57. 

9.11 
45.10 

5.4 


19 
13| 


84. 

12.4 

46.4 

6.8 


24. 
13.5 


76. 

11. 

41. 

6. 


20. 
12. 


57. 
9.11 
35.6f 

5.8| 


19 
111 


57.6 
9.6 

38.5 
6.4 


191 

12! 


29.10 


71 


33.6 


9.5 


21.0i 


8 


29.7 


71 


24.6 


8.5 


21. 


6.5 


17.111 


61 


21.4 


'1 


10.7 


- 


20. 


7. 


17. 


- 


9.6 


- 


16.6 


- 


14. 


4.6 


15.6 


- 


10.7 




106.6 
96.6 
96.9 


26| 
24| 
18J 


105. 
90. 

80. 


23.5 

21. 

16. 


96.8 
84.8 
70.6 


22f 

19| 

14| 


97.11 

89.5 
89.5 


27! 
24| 

151 


95. 
84. 
66. 


20. 

18.5 

14. 


86.6 

76. 

65.1 


19. 
18. 
13. 


81.9 
71.5 
59. 


18^ 
16| 
12i 


85.2 
74.6 
58.6 


20! 

171 
121 


79.10 
62.11 
55.4 


17 
155 
91 


77. 
67. 
49. 


17. 
15. 
11.3 


70.6 
61.6 
46.1 


14| 
I2f 

19f 


74.6 

66. 

66. 


15|' 
145 

13f 


71.6 

62. 

45. 


16. 

14.7 

10. 


65. 
57. 
40. 


15. 

13. 

9. 


59. 
53.4 

40.8 


12i 

Hi 

8i 


61.9 
54.4 
47.11 


121 

Hi 

81 


50. 

44.8 
38.4 


81 
61 


51. 
45. 
32. 


10.5 
9.4 

7. 


45.10 

40. 

32. 


91 

8* 
6t 


47.9 

42.7 
36.6 


7! 

7§ 


45. 
41. 

30. 


9.5 

9. 

6. 


40. 

38. 
26. 


8. 
7.5 

5.2 


37.6 
32.11 

28. 


7| 

6* 

51 


40.5 
35.4 
30.10 


71 
61 
61 


69.2 
71.4 
48.11 


37i 

16* 

6| 


72. 
49. 
60. 
38. 


10.5 

13. 

9. 


61.6 
61.6 
66. 
50.2 


12* 
I2f 
12| 

Hi 


66. 

64.11 

47.11 


24| 

14| 

5f 


66. 
44.6 
1 50. 
32. 


10. 
11. 

8. 


60. 
40. 
45. 
30. 


9. 
10. 

7. 


53.4 
53.4 
55.8 
42.5 


HI 
HI 
11 
10 


55.4 

58.6 


27! 
11! 


56.5 


13f 


54. 


Cap 

|16.3 


40. 


8* 


| 53.2 


13| 


50. 


Cap. 

14.3 


45. 


Cap. 

13. 


- 


- 


58.6 


12! 



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318 



517.— A Table of Spars, &c, for 





Skips of the Line. 








Names of the 


THREE DECKS. 


TWO DECKS. 


Razees* 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 




different Spars. 


a 
o> 

Ft. In. 

132. 
70. 

35. 

23.6 
9.f 


8 

s 

cd 

5 

Inch. 

42.7 
21.5 

12. 

4. 


H3 

a 

0) 

1 
Ft. In. 

22. 
12. 


J3 
w> 
a 

<a 

1-1 

Ft. In. 

124.6 
70. 

35. 

23.6 

9.f 


8 

1 

(3 


1 


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s 

0) 

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8 

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as 


5 ' 

em 


8 
3 

5 


1 
1 


Main Mast - - - 
Main Top-mast - - 
Main Top-gallant 
Mast - - - - 
Main Royal Mast - 
Main Flag Pole - 


Inch. 

40.2 
21.5 

12. 
1 


Ft. In. 

20. 
12. 


Ft. In. 

117. 
70. 

35. 

23.6 
9.! 


Inch. 

36.8 
21.5 

12. 

4. 


Ft. In. 

20. 
12. 


Ft. In. 

113. 

70. 

35. 
23.6 
94 


Inch. 

36.8 
21.5 

12. 

4. 


Ft. In. 

20. 
12. 


Fore mast - - - 
Fore Top-mast - - 
Fore Top-gallant 

Mast - - - - 
Fore Royal Mast - 
Fore Flag Pole - - 


120. 
63. 

32. 

21.4 
8.6 


38.8 
21.5 

12. 

4. 


20. 
10.6 


115. 
63. 

32. 
21.4 
8.6 


36.8 
21.5 

12. 

4. 


8. 
10.6 


105. 
63. 

32. 
21.4 
8.6 


34. 

21.5 

12. 
4. 


18. 
10.6 


101. 
63. 

32. 

21.4 

8.6 


34. 

21.5 

12. 
4. 


18. 
10.6 


Mizen Mast - - - 
Mizen Top-mast - 
Mizen Top-gallant 
Mast - - - - 
Mizen Royal Mast 
Mizen Flag Pole - 


110. 
55. 

29. 
19.4 
7.9 


27.5 

15.8 

9.8 
3.7 


17. 
9. 

Yard 
Arm. 


105. 
55. 

29. 
19.4 
7.9 


26.5 

15.8 

9.8 
3.7 


16. 

9. 

Yard 
Arm. 


98. 
53. 

29. 
19.4 
7.9 


26. 
15.3 

9.8 

3.7 


16. 
9. 

Yard 
Arm. 


94. 
53. 

29. 
19.4 

7.9 


26. 
15.3 

9.8 

3.7 


16. 
9. 

Yard 
Arm. 


Main Yard - - - 
Main Top-sail Yard 
Main Top-gallant 
Yard - - - - 
Main Royal Yard - 


110. 

82. 

52. 

36. 


26.4 

20.5 

11.8 
7.2 


5. 

7. 

2. 
1.6 


107.6 

78. 

52. 
36. 


25.7 
19.5 

11.8 
7.2 


5. 
6.6 

2. 
1.6 


105. 

77. 

49. 
35.1 


25.3 

19.2 

11.2 

7. 


5. 
6.6 

2. 
1.6 


105. 

77. 

49. 
35.1 


25.3 
19.2 

11.2 

7. 


5. 

6.6 

2. 
1.6 


Fore Yard - - - 
Fore Top-sail Yard 
Fore Top-gallant 

Yard - - - - 
Fore Royal Yard - 


100. 
75. 

48. 
33. 


24. 

18.8 

10.9 
6.6 


5. 
6.6 

2. 
1.6 


96. 
71. 

46. 
33. 


23. 

17.8 

10.7 
6.6 


5. 
6. 

2. 
1.6 


90. 
67. 

45. 
30.5 


21.6 
16.8 

10.5 
6.1 


4. 
5.6 

2. 
1.3 


90. 
67. 

45. 

30.5 


21.6 
16.8 

10.5 
6.1 


4. 

5.6 

2. 
1.3 


Cross-jack Yard - 
Mizen Top-sail !ifard 
Mizen Top-gallant 
Yard - - - - 
Mizen Royal Yard 


80. 
53. 

33. 
23. 


16. 
11.1 

6.6 
4.6 


7.6 
4.6 

1.6 
1. 


80. 
53. 

33. 
23. 


16. 
11.1 

6.6 
4.6 


7.6 
4.6 

1.6 

1. 


76. 
49.6 

32. 

21. 


15.2 
10.2 

6.4 
4.2 


7.6 
4. 

1.6 
.11 


76. 

49.6 

32. 
21. 


15.2 
10.2 

6.4 

4.2 


7.6 
4. 

1.6 
.11 


Sprit-sail Yard - - 


























Bow-sprit - - - - 
Jib-boom - - - - 
Flying Jib-boom - 
Pole 


1 
I 80. 

60. 

61. 
1 9. 


17.8 
12. 

- 


- 


78. 

60. 

161. 

I 9. 


17.8 
12. 


- 


72. 

54. 

56. 

9. 


16. 
11. 


- 


72. 

54. 

56. 

9. 


16. 
11. 


- 



all Classes of Vessels, U. S. K. 



319 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


i 

B 

i-5 


4> 

S 

cS 

5 

Inch. 

34. 
19.3 


■a 

41 

5 
3 

i 


4 

em 

c 

0) 

►J 


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Q 


1 

JC 

3 


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1 


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£ 

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£ 

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Ft. In. 

105. 
63. 


Ft. In. 

18. 
9.7 


Ft. In. 

95. 
56. 


Inch. 

30.8 
17.4 


Ft. In. 

16. 
9.6 


Ft. la. 

80. 
47. 


Inch. 

25.8 
14.8 


Ft. In 

14. 

7. 


Ft. In. 

75. 
45. 


Inch 

24.2 
14.5 


Ft. In. 

12. 
6.9 


Ft. In. 

72. 
45. 


Inch. 

24.2 
14.5 


Ft. In. 

12. 
6.9 


32. 

21.8 
8.8 


11. 
4. 




29. 
19.4 
7.9 


10. 
3.5 


- 


24. 
16. 
6.5 


8. 
3.5 


■~ 


22. 

14.8 
6. 


7.5 
3. 


- 


22. 

14.8 

6. 


7.5 
3. 


- 


95. 
56. 


30.8 
19.3 


16. 
9.6 


86. 
51. 


27.9 
17.4 


14.6 

8.4 


72. 
43. 


23.3 
14.6 


12. 

6.9 


67.6 
42. 


21.8 
14.5 


11. 
6.4 


64.6 
42. 


21.8 
14.5 


11. 
6.4 


29. 
19.4 

7.9 


11. 

4. 


— 


25.8 
17.1 
6.10 


10. 
3.5 


- 


23. 

15.4 

6. 


8.3 
3.5 


— 


21. 
14. 

5.7 


7. 
3. 


- 


21. 
14. 
5.7 


7. 
3. 


— 


87. 
46.4 


24.8 
13.3 


12.4 
6.8 


79. 
41. 


21. 

11.8 


11. 
6. 


66. 
37. 


18. 
11. 


10. 
6. 


63.9 
32. 


16. 
9.9 


10. 
5. 


60.9 
32. 


16. 
9.9 


10. 
5. 


24.6 

16.4 

6.6 


8. 
3.6 


Yard 
Arm. 


21. 

14. 
5.7 


7. 
3.3 


Yard 
Arm. 


20. 
13.4 
5.2 


6.5 
3.3 


Yard 
Arm. 


16. 

10.8 
4.3 


5.3 

2.8 


Yard 
Arm. 


16. 
10.8 
4.3 


5.3 

2.8 


Yard 
Arm. 


95. 
71.6 


22.6 

17.8 


4.9 
6. 


86.6 

65. 


20. 
15.5 


4.4 
5.5 


75. 
56. 


17.5 
13.4 


3.9 
5. 


67.6 
52.2 


15.9 
12.6 


4. 
5. 


67.6 
52.2 


15.9 
12.6 


4. 
5. 


44. 
30. 


10.2 
6. 


2. 
1.6 


40. 

27. 


9. 
5.4 


2. 
1.3 


37. 
25. 


8.4 
5. 


2. 
1. 


34. 
22.9 


7.6 
4.5 


2. 
.9 


34. 
22.9 


7.6 
4.5 


2. 
.9 


84. 
62. 


20.2 
15.5 


4.6 
5.3 


76. 
57. 


17.9 
13.6 


4. 
5. 


65. 
49. 


15.2 
11.5 


3.3 

4.8 


60.9 
46. 


14.1 
11.1 


3.8 
5. 


60.9 
46. 


14.1 
11.1 


3.8 
5. 


41. 
27. 


9.3 
5.4 


2. 
1.3 


38. 
25. 


8.5 
5. 


2. 
1. 


32. 

22. 


7.3 
4.4 


1.9 
.9 


30.6 
20.6 


6.8 
4.1 


1.9 

.8 


30.6 
20.6 


6.8 
4.1 


1.9 

.8 


66. 
46. 


13.2 
9.5 


7. 
4. 


64. 
41. 


12.8 
8.5 


7. 
4. 


53. 
36.6 


10.6 
7.6 


4.9 
3.6 


51.10 
34.8 


10.4 
7.3 


4. 
3.3 


51.10 
34.8 


10.4 
7.3 


4. 
3.3 


30. 
19. 


6. 
3.8 


1.6 
.9 


26. 
16. 


5.2 
3.2 


1.4 

.8 


22.6 
15. 


4.5 
3. 


1.4 
.6 


22. 
14. 


4.4 

2.8 


1.3 

.6 


22. 
14. 


4.4 

2.8 


1.3 
.6 


66. 
50. 
54. 

8.8 


14.8 
10.8 


- 


60. 
45. 
45. 
7.9 


13.5 
9. 


_ 


50. 
30. 
40. 
6.5 


11.2 

8. 


_ 


48. 

34.6 

38.9 

6. 


10. 

7.8 


- 


46. 

34.6 

38.9 

6. 


10. 

7.8 


_ 



320 



A Table of Spars, &c, for all 





Ships of the Line. 








Names of the 


THREE DECKS. 


TWO DECKS. 


Razees. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 




different Spars. 


J3 

to 

B 
W 

►J 

Ft. In. 


1 

1 

CO 

Q 
Inch. 


<*- 

o 

n 

Ft. In. 


em 
s 

_1 

Ft. In. 


2 

"3 
| 

Q 
Inch. 


"3 

gfln 


f 

a 


4J 


*3 


4 

a 

V 

.J 


2 

9) 

s 

5 


fig 

tifM 




Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Main Gaff - - - 


33. 


8.2 


- 


33. 


8.2 




30. 


7.4 




30. 




M'n Top-mast Stud- 


























ing-sail Boom 
Yard for Main Top- 


55. 


11.5 


- 


53.9 


11. 


_ 


52.6 


11. 


_ 


52.6 


11. 


„ 


























mast Studding- 


























sail ----- 


24. 


4.8 


- 


24. 


4.8 


_ 


23.6 


4.7 


_ 


23.6 


4.7 


_ 


Main Top-gallant 


























Studd'g-sail Boom 


41. 


8.6 


- 


39. 


8.2 


_ 


38. 


6.8 


_ 


38. 


6.8 


_ 


Yard for Main Top- 
























gallant Studding- 


























sail - - - - - 


24. 


4.8 


" 


24. 


4.8 


- 


23.6 


4.7 


— 


23.6 


4.7 


- 


Pore Gaff- - - - 


37. 


9.2 




37. 


9.2 




36. 


8.8 




36. 


8.8 




Lower Swinging 


























Boom - - - - 


65. 


13. 


- 


60. 


12. 


_ 


58. 


11.6 


_ 


58. 


11.6 


_ 


Yard for Lower Stud- 


























ding-sail - - - 


32.6 


6.5 


_ 


30. 


6. 


_ 


29. 


5.8 


_ 


29. 


5.8 




Pore Top-mast Stud- 


























ding-sail Boom - 


50. 


10.5 


_ 


48. 


10. 


_ 


45. 


9.4 


_ 


45. 


9.4 


_ 


Yard for Fore Top- 


























mast Studding- 
















" 










sail - - - - _ 


31. 


6.2 


_ 


29.9 


6. 


_ 


28. 


5.6 


_ 


28. 


5.6 


— 


Pore Top-gall't Stud- 


























ding-sail Boom - 


37.6 


7.8 


_ 


35. 


7.4 


_ 


33.6 


7. 


_ 


33.6 


7. 


_ 


Yard for Fore Top- 


























gallant Studding- 


























sail - - - - - 


22. 


4.4 


— 


21. 


4.2 


~ 


20.6 


4. 


- 


20.6 


4. 


" 


Spanker Boom - - 


60. 


12.5 




60. 


12.5 




57. 


11.8 




57. 


11.8 




Ring-tail Boom - - 


30. 


6. 


_ 


30. 


6. 


_ 


28.6 


5.7 


_ 


28.6 


5.7 


_ 


Mizen Gaff - - - 


38. 


9.4 


5. 


38. 


9.4 


5. 


35. 


8.6 


5. 


35. 


8.6 


5. 


Square-sail Boom - 












— 




— 










Yard for Square- 






















sail 












- i - 


_ i _ 








Jack Gaff- - - - 


17. 


6. 


_ 


16. 1 5.5 


- 16. 


5.5 - 


16. 


5.5 


_ 


Dolphin Striker - - 


22. 


9. 


3. 


20. 


8.5 


3.1 


20. 


8.5 


3. 


20. 


8.5 


3. 



Classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Continued. 



321 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


4 

S 


£ 

£ 
B 

5 


►4 


5 

B 
►J 


s 
| 
S 


O 


5 

M 

a 
o 
■J 


6 

a 

5 


o 




2 

e 

a 

a 


"3 

rO 

5c, 


c 

3 


£ 

s 

5 


"3 

JS . 


Ft In. 

28.6 


Inch. 

7.1 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 
27. 


Inch. 

6.8 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 

19.5 


Inch. 

5. 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 

17. 


Inch. 

4.4 


Fu In. 


Ft. In. 

17. 


Inch. 

4.4 


Ft. In. 


47.6 


9.9 


- 


43.3 


9. 


- 


37.6 


7.8 


- 


33.9 


7. 


- 


33.9 


7. 


- 


20. 


4. 


- 


18. 


3.6 


- 


16.6 


3.3 


- 


15. 


3. 


- 


15. 


3. 


- 


35.9 


7.4 


- 


32.6 


6.8 


- 


28. 


5.8 


- 


26. 


5.4 


- 


26. 


5.4 


- 


20. 


4. 


- 


18. 


3.6 


- 


16.6 


3.3 


" 


15. 


3. 


- 


15. 


3. 


- 


33.6 


8.3 


_ 


33. 


8.2 


_ 


26. 


6.4 


_ 


25. 


6.2 


_ 


25. 


G.2 


_ 


51.3 


10.2 


- 


46.3 


9.2 


- 


42. 


8.4 


- 


40.9 


8.2 


- 


40.9 


8.2 


- 


25.6 


5. 


- 


23. 


4.6 


- 


21. 


4.2 


- 


20.4 


4. 


- 


20.4 


4. 


- 


42. 


8.8 


- 


38. 


8. 


- 


32.6 


6.8 


- 


30.3 


6.4 


- 


30.3 


6.4 


- 


25.9 


5.2 


- 


23.6 


4.7 


- 


19.10 


4. 


- 


18. 


3.6 


- 


18. 


3.6 


- 


31. 


6.5 


- 


28.6 


6. 


- 


24.6 


5.2 


- 


23. 


4.9 


" 


23. 


4.9 


- 


18.6 


3.7 


- 


17. 


3.4 


- 


14. 


3.3 


" 


13.6 


2.7 


- 


13.6 


2.7 


" 


50. 
25. 
32. 


10.5 
5. 

7.8 


4.6 


45. 

22.6 

30. 


9.5 
4.5 
7.4 


4.6 


35. 

17.6 

28. 


7.7 
3.5 
6.8 


4. 


34. 
17. 
26. 


7.4 
3.4 
6.4 


4. 


34. 
17. 

26. 


7.4 
3.4 
6.4 


4. 


14. 
18. 


4.2 

7.5 


2. 


18. 


4.2 
7.5 


2. 


13. 
15. 


3.7 

7. 


2. 


11. 
14. 


3.2 
6.3 


1.8 


11. 

14. 


3.2 
6.3 


1.8 



21 



322 



A Table of Spars, &c. — Concluded. 



Names ot the 


Brigs 


• 1 


Brigantines. 


Schooners. 


Remarks. 


different Spars. 






*9 






t3 






. 




a 


£ 


ctf 


£ 


£ 


5 

<u 


A 


2 

4> 








s 


S 

s 


a 


a 


I 


1 


c 


i 


td 






•J 


5 


s 


.J 


(3 


a 


>J 


5 


s 






Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 


Ft. In. 


Inch. 


Ft. In. 




Main Mast - - - 


72.2 


22.6 


12.2 


76. 


20. 


8. 


78.8 


20.3 


8. 




Main Top-mast - - 


40.6 


12 6 


6.9 


21. 


6.3 


- 


26.2 


7.5 






Main Top-gallant 






















Mast - - - - 


20.3 


7.2 


- 


14. 


5.2 


- 


13.1 


5. 






Main Royal Mast - 


13.4 


_ 


- 


6.6 














Main Flag Pole 


5.4 


.2.5 


- 


5.4 


_ 


_ 


6. 


2.5 


_ 


( Diameter at the 


Fore Mast - - - 


64.8 


22. 


11.3 


55. 


18.7 


9.2 


75.8 


21.3 


8. 


( Truck. 


Fore Top-mast - - 


40.6 


12.6 


6.9 


32.6 


10.4 


5.6 


26.2 


7.5 






Fore Top-gall't Mast 


20.3 


7.2 


- 


18.3 


6.8 


- 


13.1 


5. 






Fore Royal Mast - 


13.6 


_ 


_ 


12. 














Fore Flag Pole - - 


5.4 


2.5 


- 


5. 


_ 


- 


6. 


2.5 


_ 


( Diameter at the 
I Truck. 


Mizen Flag Pole - 






Yard. 
Arm. 






Yard 
Arm. 






Yard 
Arm. 


\ Diameter at the 
{ Truck 


Main Yard - - - 


59.6 


14. 


3. 


35.6 


8. 


2.9 










Main Top-sail Yard 


44.7 


10.6 


3.8 


24.6 


5.5 


1.4 










Main Top-gal't Yard 


28.4 


6.5 


1.4 


16.3 


3.2 


.9 










Main Royal Yard - 


18.11 


3.6 


.9 
















Fore Yard - - - 


59.6 


14. 


3. 


45. 


10.1 


2.9 


50. 


11.3 


2.6 




Fore Top-sail Yard 


44.7 


10.7 


3.8 


33.6 


7.7 


3. 


33.4 


7.4 


2.6 




Fore Top-gall't Yard 


28.4 


6.5 


14 


22. 


4.5 


1.6 


22.2 


4.5 


1. 




Fore Royal Yard - 


18.11 


4. 


.9 


14.9 


3. 


.9 










Sprit-sail Yard - - 






















Bow-sprit - - - - 


42. 


- 


- 


17.6 


Out 


b'rd. 


29.1 


18. 






Jib-boom - - - - 


32.5 


9.5 


_ 


14. 


Out 


b'rd. 


37. 


11. 






Flying Jib-boom - 


34.5 


6.8 


_ 


12. 


Out 


b'rd. 










Pole 


5.4 


- 


L'gth 
Pole. 


3.4 




L'gth 
Pole. 






L'gth 
Pole. 


fPolestotheM'n 
Gaffs of Brigs, 
















Main Gaff - - - 


39.8 


9.8 


5. 


25. 


8.5 


5. 


25. 


8.5 


5. 


1 Brigantines and 
| Sch'ners are not 


M'n Top-mast Stud- 




















included in the 


ding-sail Boom 


29, 


6. 
















(.lengths given. 


Yard for Main Top- 






















mast Studding-sail 


12.10 


2.6 


















Main Top-gallant 






















Studd'g-sail Boom 


22.3 


4.6 


















Yard for Main Top- 






















gal't Studding-sail 


12.10 


2.6 




) 












Fore Gaff- - - - 


25. 


6.2 


_ 


24. 8. 


_ 


25. 


8. 






Lower Swinging 








1 












Boom - - - - 


31.6 


6.4 


_ 


22. 1 4.6 


_. 


22. 


4.6 






Yard for Lower Stud- 




















ding-sail - - - 


15.3 


3. 


_ 


11. 


I 2.6 




11. 


2.6 






Fore Top-mast Stud- 






















ding-sail Boom - 


29.9 


6.2 




22.6 


4.8 




25. 


5.3 






Yard for Fore Top- 






















mast Studding-sail 


18.7 


3.8 




13.9 


3. 


_ 


14.2 


3. 






Fore Top-gall't Stud- 






















ding-sail Boom - 


22.3 


4.7 




16.9 


3.6 




16.8 


3.6 






Yard for Fore Top- 






















gal l'nt Studd'g-sail 


12.10 


2.6 




9.6 


2. 


- 


10.1 


2.2 






Spanker Boom - - 


59.6 


13. 


_ 


50. 


11. 


_ 


50. 


11. 






Square-sail Boom - 














45. 


9.7 






Yard for Square-sail 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


22.8 


5. 




r Length tor Brigs 
I and Schooners 
j £ov'd by Steeve 
I of Bowiprit 


Jack Gaff- - - - 
Dolphin SV^er- - 


9. 


3. 


~ 


t 


3. 


- 


9. 

- 


3. 





OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



323 



A Cordage Table of Feet and Fathoms. 



Feet. 


Fath. 


Feet. 


Fath. 


Feet. 


Fath. 


Feet Fath. 


Feet. 


Fath. 


Feet. 

655 


Fath. 


Feet. 


Fath. 


30 


5 





155 


25 5 


280 


46 


4 


405 


67 


3 


530 


88 2 


109 1 


780 


130 


35 


5 


5 


160 


26 4 


285 


47 


3 


410 


68 


2 


535 


89 1 


660 


110 


785 


130 5 


40 


6 


4 


165 


27 3 


290 


48 


2 


415 


69 


1 


540 


90 


665 


110 5 


790 


131 4 


45 


7 


3 


170 


28 2 


295 


49 


1 


420 


70 





545 


90 5 


670 


111 4 


795 


132 3 


50 


8 


2 


175 


29 1 


300 


50 





425 


70 


5 


550 


91 4 


675 


112 3|800 


133 2 


55 


9 


1 


180 


30 


305 


50 


5 


430 


71 


4 


555 


92 3 


680 


113 2 


805 


134 I 


60 


10 





185 


30 5 


310 


51 


4 


435 


72 


3 


560 


93 2 


685 


114 1 


810 


135 


65 


10 


5 


190 


31 4 


315 


52 


3 


440 


73 


2 


565 


94 1 


690 


115 


815 


135 5 


70 


Jl 


4 


195 


32 3 


320 


53 


2 


445 


74 


1 


570 


95 


695 


115 5 


820 


136 4 


75 


12 


3 


200 


33 2 


325 


54 


1 


450 


75 





575 


95 5 


700 


116 4 


825 


137 3 


80 


13 


2 


205 


34 1 


330 


55 





455 


75 


5 


580 


96 4 


705 


117 3 


830 


138 2 


85 


14 


1 


210 


35 


335 


55 


5 


460 


76 


4 


585 


97 3 


310 


118 2 


835 


139 1 


90 


15 





215 


35 5 


340 


56 


4 


465 


77 


3 


590 


98 2 


715 


119 1 


840 


140 


95 


15 


5 


220 


36 4 


345 


57 


3 


470 


78 


2 


595 


99 1 


720 


120 


845 


140 5 


100 


16 4 


225 


37 3 


350 


58 


2 


475 


79 


1 


600 


100 


725 


120 5 


850 


141 4 


105 


17 


3 


230 


38 2 


355 


59 


1 


480 


80 





605 


100 5 


730 


121 4855 


142 3 


110 


18 


2 


235 


39 1 


360 


60 





485 


80 


5 


610 


101 4 


735 


122 3 ! 860 


143 2 


115 


19 


1 


240 


40 


365 


60 


5 


490 


81 


4 


615 


102 3 


740 


123 2865 


144 1 


120 


20 





245 


40 5 


370 


61 


4 


495 


82 


3 


620 


103 2 


745 


124 1870 


145 


125 


20 


5 


250 


41 4 


375 


62 


3 


500 


83 


o 


625 


104 1 


750 


125 0875 


145 5 


130 


21 


4 


255 


42 3 


380 


63 


2 


505 


84 


1 


630 


105 755 


125 5880 


146 4 


135 


22 


3 


260 


43 2 


385 


64 


1 


510 


85 





635 


105 5 760 


126 4 885 


147 3 


140 


23 


2 


265 


44 1 


390 


65 





515 


85 


5 


640 


106 4 


765 127 3 


890 


148 2 


145 24 


1 


270 


45 


395 


65 


5 


520 


86 


4 


645 


107 3 


770128 2 


895 


149 1 


150 25 





275 


45 5 


400 


66 


4 


525 


87 


3 


650 


108 2 


775 ( 129 1 


900 


150 



Weight of Cables of 120 fathoms from 3 to 25 inches. 

Three inch cable weighs 252 pounds ; 3£ inch, 336 pounds ; 4, 448 ; 4J, 560 ; 
5, 700 ; 5£, 840 ; 6, 1008 ; 6£, 1176 ; 7, 1340 ; 7*, 1568 ; 8, 1792 ; 8j, 2016 ; 9, 2268 ; 
9£,2520; 10,2800; 10*, 3080; 11, 3388; 11*, 3696; 12, 4032; 12£, 4368; 13,4732; 
VSi, 5056; 14,5480; Uh, 5880; 15, 6328; 15£, 6720; 16, 7168; 16§, 7616; 17, 
8092; 17i 8568; 18, 9072; 18£, 9520; 19, 10108; 19£, 10640; 20, 11200; 20*, 
11760; 21, 12348; 21J, 12936; 22, 13452; 22*, 14168; 23, 14840; 23£, 15456; 24, 
16128; 25, 17500. 



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340 523. — A Table showing the Length and Size of Stand- 



1 




Ships of the Line. 




Razees. 


Frigates* 








2 DECKS. 






3 DEC 








1st Class. 




1st Class. 2d Class. 




Names of Rigging. 




















1 


5 02 


g c 

►J fc 


6 


a 

"So 

g c 

■J 2 


. 0Q 


5 

60 

B 


6 


8 


i 

3 


6 
_5 


i 


i 


BOWSPRIT GEAR. 




1 








Gammoning (Iron for 


























all classes of vessels 




j 






















Shrouds (pairs) - - 


2 9 


38 | J 


2 9 


34 ! 5 


I 9 


32 


2 


8| 


32 


2 


8 


30 


Collars lor Shrouds - 


2 9 


8 5 


2 9 


7 1 $ 


2 9 


7 


2 


8* 


7 


2 


8 


w 
i 


Lanyards for Shrouds 


























(four-stranded) - - 
Bobstays (pairs) - - 


4 4 


32 


1 4 


32 . 


1 4 


32 


4 


4 


32 


4 


3! 


34 


21(H 


36 


210h 


32 1 ! 


210 


31 


2 


10 


31 


2 


10 


26 


Collars for Bobstays 


210i 


7 


2 m 


6| 


210 


Gh 


2 


10 


6§ 


2 


10 


6i 


Lanyards for Bobstays 


























(four-stranded) - - 


2 5i 


17 


2 5i 


17 


2 5 


17 


2 


5 


17 


2 


5 


18 


Cap Bobstay - - - 


1 7 


20 


1 7 


17 


1 7 


17 


1 


7 


17 


1 


6* 


15 


Collar for Cap Bobstay 


1 7 


31 


1 7 


3* 


1 7 


3 


1 


7 


3 


1 


64 


2£ 


Lanyard for Cap Bob- 


























stay (four-stranded) 


1 31 


8^ 


1 3i 


$h 


1 3i 


81 


1 


3* 


81 


1 


3i 


8* 


Manropes - - - - 


2 4£ 


18 


2 4i 


18 


2 4| 


18 


2 


4| 


17 


2 


44 


16 


Bumkin Braces (Iron 


























for all vessels - - 


























SPRIT-SAIL YARD 


























GEAR. 


























Parrel - - - - - 


1 5 


10 


1 5 


10 


1 5 


9 


1 


5 


7 


1 


4 


7 


Tye 


1 4| 


2 


1 4| 


2 


1 4i 


2 


1 


-4| 


2 


1 


4 


2 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 3£ 


16 


2 3| 


16 


2 3i 


16 


2 


3§ 


15 


2 


3i 


12 


Lifts 


2 4£ 


31 


2 4£ 


30 


2 4£ 


30 


2 


44 


28 


2 


4| 


26 


Braces 


2 3i 


108 


2 3i 


106 


2 3i 


103 


2 


3i 


103 


2 


3 


86 


JIB-BOOM GEAR. 


























Jib Stay 


1 8 


45 


1 8 


44 


1 8 


43 


1 


8 


42 


1 


7| 


39 


Jib Guys (pairs) - - 


2 6 


75 


2 6 


72 


2 6 


72 


2 


6 


68 


2 


5A 


68 


Jib Falls - - - - 


4 3 


40 


4 3 


40 


4 3 


40 


4 


3 


40 


4 


2! 


40 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 4 


18 


2 4 


18 


2 4 


18 


2 


4 


17 


2 


31 


16 


Martingale Stay - - 


1 8 


10 


1 8 


9 


1 8 


8 


1 


8 


8 


1 


71 


7i 


Martingale Backropes 


























(pair) 


1 5§ 


20 


1 54 


17 


1 bh 


17 


1 


H 


17 


1 


5 


16 


Martingale Falls - - 


2 3 


16 


2 3 


16 


2 3 


16 


2 


3 


16 


2 


2! 


16 


Halliards - - - - 


1 3f 


70 


1 3f 


70 


1 3£ 


64 


1 


3i 


67 


1 


34 


62 


Downhaul - - - - 


1 3 


42 


1 3 


40 


1 22 


35 


1 


2* 


36 


1 


2| 


35 


Sheets ----- 


2 4£ 


80 


2 4i 


70 


2 4i 


62 


2 


31 


62 


2 


3* 


68 


Pendants - - - - 


2 6 


8 


2 6* 


8 


2 6 


7 


2 


51 


7 


2 


5f 


6£ 


Brails 


2 2f 


68 


2 2f 


60 


2 2f 


57 


2 


21 


58 


2 


2| 


56 


FLYING JIB-BOOM 




1 










1 










GEAR. 














1 








Flying- Jib Stay - - 


1 5 


52 


1 5 


50 


1 5 


47 


1 


4| 


48 


1 4| 


43 


Flying- Jib Guys - - 


2 4 


52 


2 4 


50 


2 4 


44 


2 


31 


44 


2 


31 


40 


Fiying- Jib Falls - - 


2 3 


24 


2 3 


24 


2 3 


24 


2 


2f 


24 


2 


2| 


20 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 3 


11 


2 3 


10 


2 3 


10 


2 


3 


10 


2 


3 


9 


Martingale Stay - - 


1 5 


24 


1 5 


20 


1 5 


20 


1 


4A 


20 


1 


4i 


18 


Halliards - - - - 


1 3i 


60 


1 3i 


58 


1 3i 


53 


1 


3 


54 


1 


3 


51 


Downhaul - - - - 


1 2| 


46 


1 2| 


46 


1 2f 


39 


1 


2A 


40 


1 


2| 


36 


Sheets 


2 5| 


52 


2 3| 


50 


2 3| 


46 


2 


34 


48 


2 


34 


40 


Heel-rope - - - - 


1 3 


34 


1 3 


32 


1 3 


30 


1 


3 


30 


1 


2! 


30 



NOTE.— The Lanyards for all Standing Rigging should be four-stranded rope. 



ing & Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N. 341 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 




Brig. 


Schoon- 












Brigs. 






Steamers 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




antines 


ers. 








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12 


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64 


11 


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7 


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8 


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54 


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2 


74 


2 


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64 


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41 


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74 


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34 


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14 


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21 


10 


2 


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8 


4 


34 


28 


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25 


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20 


2 


74 


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14 


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9 


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2 


3| 


12 


2 


3 


14 


2 


3 


14 


1 


3 


7 


2 


44 


14 


] 


6 


14 


1 


5* 


12 


1 


5i 


11 


1 


5 


11 




















1 


6 


15 


1 


6 


2* 


1 


54 


24 


1 


54 


2 


1 


5 


2 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 








1 


6 


2 


1 


3 


8| 


1 


2| 


7 


1 


21 


6 


1 


24 


6 




















1 


3 


7 


2 


4 


15 


2 


31 


12 


2 


34 


12 


2 


3i 


11 


2 


3 


8 


2 


3 


8 




" 


— 


2 


4 


14 


1 


4 


6 


1 


3* 


5 




3 


5 


1 


3 


5 














" 


" 




1 


4 


6 


1 


3* 


2 


1 


34 


2 


1 


31 


2 


1 


3i 


2 


















_ 


1 


34 


2 


2 


3 


10 


2 


2f 


8 


2 


2f 


7 


2 


24 


6 


















_ 


2 


3 


10 


2 


4 


22 


2 


31 


18 


2 


31 


16 


2 


3 


15 


















_ 


2 


4 


22 


2 


3 


72 


2 


3 


62 


2 


2! 


58 


2 


24 


54 
















_ 


- 


2 


3 


72 


1 


7 


34 


1 


6 


28 


1 


6 


28 


1 


51 


26 


1 


5 


27 


1 


5 


24 


1 


5 


23 


1 


51 


37 


2 


51 


64 


2 


5 


48 


2 


4f 


44 


2 


44 


42 


1 


5 


18 


1 


5 


16 


1 


5 


16 


2 


51 


62 


4 


2f 


40 


4 


21 


36 


4 


24 


32 


4 


21 


30 


2 


24 


18 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 






4 


2| 


40 


2 


34 


14 


2 


31 


12 


2 


31 


10 


2 


3 


9 


2 


2| 


9 


2 


2f 


8 


2 


24 


9 


2 


34 


14 


1 


71 


7* 


1 


6J 


64 


1 


6 


6h 


1 


54 


6 


1 


54 


5 


1 


54 


44 


154 


44 


1 


74 


7 


1 


4| 


15 


1 


41 


14 


1 


4 


13 


1 


34 


12 


1 


34 


9 


1 


34 


9 


134 


8 


1 


44 


15 


2 


24 


16 


2 


21 


14 


2 


21 


12 


2 


2 


12 












— 




_ 


2 


24 


16 


1 


3 


55 


I 


2! 


46 


1 


2! 


44 


1 


24 


42 


1 


24 


45 


1 


24 


42 


12| 


26 


1 


3 


66 


1 


24 


32 


1 


21 


28 


1 


21 


26 


1 


2 


24 


1 


2 


22 


1 


2 


20 


12 


21 


1 


24 


34 


2 


3i 


60 


2 


31 


56 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


44 


2 


21 


43 


2 


21 


42 


221 


40 


2 


31 


60 


2 


54 


6 


2 


51 


5 


2 


5 


5 


2 


5 


5 


2 


44 


5 


2 


44 


5 


2 


44 


6 


2 


54 


6 


2 


21 


52 


2 


2 


46 


2 


2 


44 


2 


2 


42 


2 


2 


40 


2 


2 


36 


_ 




— 


2 


21 


54 


1 


41 


38 


1 


4 


34 


1 


31 


32 


1 


34 


30 


1 


31 


30 


1 


31 


27 


1 


34 


27 


1 


41 


38 


2 


3! 


34 


2 


34 


30 


2 


31 


30 


2 


3i 


28 


2 


3 


32 


2 


3 


20 


22| 


24 


2 


3f 


34 


2 


2* 


20 


2 


21 


16 


2 


2 


14 


2 


2 


14 














J 




2 


24 


20 


2 


3 


8 


2 


2| 


7 


2 


2| 


7 


2 


24 


7 


2 


24 


7 


2 


24 


6 


221 


6 


2 


3 


8 


1 


41 


17 


1 


4 


15 


1 


4 


13 


1 


3t 


12 


1 


34 


11 


1 


34 


104 


13| 


10 


1 


41 


17 


1 


2| 


45 


1 


24 


39 


1 


21 


37 


1 


21 


37 


1 


2 


37 


1 


2 


34 


12 


33 


1 


2| 


46 


1 


21 


34 


1 


2 


30 


1 


If 


30 


I 


1! 


26 


1 


11 


26 


1 


U 


22 


Ml 


26 


1 


21 


34 


2 


3 


38 


2 2A 


30 


2 


24 


30 


2 


24 


28 


2 


21 


26 


2 


21 


24 


22 


24 


2 


3 


38 


1 


2i 


26 


i 1 


21 


20 


1 


21 


20 


1 


2 


19 


1 


If 


18 


1 


14 


15 


1 


14 


14 


1 


2f 


26 



342 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 



1 


Ships of the Line. 








Frigates. 






2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DEC 








1st Class. 




1st Class. 


2d Class. 




Names of Rigging* 










i 














c 


i .2 


5 

5 c 


8 


B 


6 i 


5 

S 
CD 


6 


<D 
N 


5 

c 


c 


<u 


1 


E 


; go 


J £ 


K 


hJ 


J5 


02 


■J 


K 


03 


►J 


2 


«2 


yl 


FORE-MAST AND 


















YARD GEAR. 




























Pendants (pairs) - 


2l0h 


10 5 


S10| 


10 


2 


10 


10 


2 


10 


10 


2 


10 


10 


Shrouds (pairs)* - - 1 
Lanyards for Shrouds 


010| 


J 124 ( 
{ 134 il 


)l0i 


$120 

i 134 


10 


10 


$114 

ni9 


10 


10 


U23 

H28 


9 


10 


5 92 
?116 


(four-stranded)- - 2 


5i 


200 2( 


) 5| 


160 


20 


5 


160 


20 


5 


160 


18 


5 


153 


Stays 


215 


40 i 


215 


40 


2 


14* 


38 


2 


14J 


39 


2 


14 


46 


Collars for Stays - - 


2 9 


19 5 


I 9 


18 


2 


9 


18 


2 


81 


18 








Futtock Shrouds - - l 


2\ 6h 


3015 


2 6A 


30 


12 


6i 


30 


12 


6 


30 


10 


51 


25 


Slings Proper (to go 
over Cap) — Chain 






















































for all vessels - - 




























Slings, Preventer 


112 


11 


112 


10 


1 


11 


10 


1 


10* 


10 


1 


10 


9 


Lanyard for Slings - 


1 5 


21 


I 5 


21 


1 


4f 


21 


1 


4f 


21 


1 


41 


21 


Pendant Tackle Falls 


2 4 


118 


2 4 


114 


2 


4 


94 


2 


3| 


98 


2 


31 


98 


Runner - - - - - 


1 8 


14 


1 8 


14 


1 


8 


14 


1 


7 


14 


1 


7 


14 


Falls for Runner - - 


1 4 


45 


1 4 


45 


1 


4 


39 


1 


3f 


39 


1 


31 


42 


Jeer Falls - - - - 


2 51 


130 


2 5| 


130 


2 


5| 


108 


2 


5i 


112 


2 


5 


104 


Jackstays (bending) 

Iron _ - - - - 

Jackstays (reefing) - 




























2 3§ 


17 


2 3* 


16 


2 


3i 


16 


2 


3i 


16 


2 


3 


14 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 5 


18 


2 5 


17 


2 


4| 


17 


2 


'4| 


17 


2 


41 


15 


Stirrups - - - - - 


8 3| 


8 


8 3i 


8 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


Truss Pendants (hide) 


2 7 


22 


2 7 


20 


2 


6i 


19 


2 


6* 


19 


2 


6$ 


18 


Falls for Truss Pen- 




























dants - - - - - 


2 31 


52 


2 3i 


50 


2 


3 


48 


e 


3 


50 


2 


3 


48 


Lifts 


2 5i- 


90 


2 5i 


80 


2 


5 


78 


2 


5 


80 


2 


41 


70 


Braces ----- 


2 4| 


154 


2 4i 


150 


2 


41 


154 


2 


4* 


156 


2 


4i 


148 


Tacks (tapered) - - 


2 6i 


80 


2 6£ 


80 


2 


61 


68 


2 


6* 


70 


2 


6 


66 


Sheets (tapered) - - 


2 G| 


84 


2 6| 


84 


2 


6* 


72 


2 


6£ 


74 


2 


6 


68 


Clew Garnets - - - 


2 4 


84 


2 4 


80 


2 


3-1 


74 


2 


3f 


78 


2 


3£ 


64 


Bowlines - - - - 


2 4 


64 


2 4 


62 


2 


31 


60 


2 


3f 


60 


2 


3* 


56 


Reef Pendants - - 


2 4| 


11 


2 4| 


10 


2 


4i 


10 


2 


4i 


10 


2 


4i 


9 


Bunt-lines (pairs) - 
Bunt-line Whips 


2 3i 


54 


2 3f 


52 


2 


3 


48 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


40 


2 3 


52 


2 3 


48 


2 


2* 


44 


2 


2f 


46 


2 


21 


40 


Leech-lines - - - 


4 3 


110 


4 3 


110 


4 


2f 


105 


4 


21 


108 


4 


2i 


104 


After Leech-lines 


4 3 


100 


4 3 


100 


4 


2| 


84 


4 


21 


88 


4 


2* 


80 


Slab-lines - - - - 


1 % 


22 


1 2§ 


22 


1 


91 


21 


1 


2* 


22 


1 


2i 


20 


Clew Jiggers - - - 


2 2f 


86! 


2 2f 


80 


2 


2i 


70 


2 


2i 


72 


2 


2| 


70 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 3| 


38| 


2 3| 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


3 


30 


Boom Jiggers - - - 


2 2f 


42 


2 2f 


40 


2 


n 


34 


2 


2£ 


36 


2 


2| 


34 


Boom Jiggers (in and 




























out) 


2 3 


6fi 


2 3 


60 


2 


3 


58 


2 


3 


60 


2 


21 


56 


Bunt Whip - - - 


1 2§ 


23 


1 % 


23 


1 


2* 


21 


1 


2£ 


22 


1 


Si 


20 


Fore Storm Stay Sail 


























Stay 


1 9 


15 


1 9 


14 


1 


8£ 


13 


1 


84 


14 


1 


8 


13 


Halliards - - - - 


1 3| 


39 


1 31 


36 


1 


3£ 


34 


1 


3* 


36 


1 


3i 


33 


Downhaul - - - - 


1 2| 


21! 


1 2f 


20 


1 


2| 


18 


1 


2f 


18 


1 


2i 


18 


Lower Studding-sail 




1 


















1 






Halliards - - - 


2 4 


98 


2 4 


96 


2 


4 


84 


2 


3! 


m 2 


3! 


92 


Lower Studding-sail 




















1 






Inner Halliards - 


2 3 


60 


2 3 


54 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


52 


2 


21 


52 



It will be remembered that the specific lengths given in these Tables aie 



Run 9 g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. $. Nr-Ctai. 343 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 








Brig- 


Schoon- 


















Brigs. 






Steamers. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




a nt i lies 


ers. 








g 






.C 






£ 


| 


£ 






£ 






gj 






s: 


1 


5 


j 


s 

PS 


s 


Q 


e 

N 

GO 




6 
J5 


v 
ro 


B 


j 


c 

N 


C 
t-1 


6 


6 


s 
o 
t-3 


6 


g 


_;J_ 


i 


V 
s 

PC 


1i 
3 


J 6 
%. 35 


to 
B 


2 


9 


9 i 


2 


8 


8 


2 


71 


8 


2 


1h 


8 


2 


6 


7 


2 


6 


7 


i 


6 


4 


v 


9 


8 


9 




6 


8 


104 


6 


lh 


102 


5 


71 


80 


5 


6 


74 


5 


6 


73 


4 


6 


88 


8 9 


$92 
J 95 


10 


41 


136 


12 


4 


96 


12 


3f 


90 


10 


3f 


75 


10 


3 


70 














16, Ah 


136 


2 


12§ 


44 


2 


10§ 


38 


2 


10 


34 


2 


91 


32 


2 


8 


34 


2 


71 


32 


1 


101 


19 


2l2i 


52 


10 


51 


25 


- 


Iron 


r 


- 


Iron 


- 


- 


I'D 


~ 


- 


I'D 


- 


- 


I*B 




- 


Iron 


- 


10 b\ 


28 


1 


9 


9 


1 


8 


8 


1 


7£ 


7 


1 


71 


7 


1 


6 


7 


1 


6 


7 








1 9 


9 


1 


41 


20 


1 


4 


16 


1 


31 


15 


1 


31 


15 


1 


3 


14 


1 


3 


14 


- 


_ 


- 


1 4i 


18 


2 


3* 


88 


2 


31 


78 


2 


3i 


72 


2 


3i 


70 


2 


3 


66 


2 


3 


58 


2 


2f 


90 


2 3l 


94 


1 


7 


13 


























_ 












ll 7 


13 


1 


3! 


36 






































1 3| 


36 


2 


5 


84 






































V 


100 


2 


3 


13 


2 


21 


11 


2 


2i 


10 


2 


21 


10 


2 


2i 


10 


2 


2t 


9 








2 3 


13 


2 


4i 


14 


2 


4 


12 


2 


3f 


11 


2 


31 


11 


2 


31 


11 


2 


31 


10 


2 


3 


11 


2 


41 


14 


6 


21 


6 


4 


2f 


4 


4 


21 


4 


4 


8i 


4 


4 


2; 


4 


4 


21 


4 


4 


2 


4 


6 


21 


6 


- 


Pat. 


- 


- 


Pat. 


- 


- 


Pat. 


- 


- 


P't 


- 


- 


Pt 


- 


- 


P't 


- 


- 


Pat. 


- 




Pat. 


- 


2 


51 


54 


2 


41 


42 


2 


4| 


38 


2 


5i 


36 


2 


4 1 


32 


2 


41 


28 


2 


4 


36 


2 


51 


62 


2 


4 


145 


2 


3! 


108 


2 


3i 


100 


2 


3i 


90 


2 


3 


85 


2 


3 


85 


2 


2f 


90 


2 


4 


126 


2 


H 


62 


■2 


5 


48 


2 


41 


44 


2 


41 


42 


2 


1 


42 


2 


4 


42 


2 


31 


30 


2 


51 


80 


2 


r oh 


64 


2 


5 


50 


2 


4f 


40 


2 


41 


44 


2 


4 


44 


2 


4 


44 


2 


2f 


20 


2 


51 


80 


2 


3| 


54 


•2 


3 


52 


2 


3 


42 


2 


3 


42 


2 


°l 


46 


2 


21 


46 


_ 


- 


_ 


2 


31 


78 


2 


3i 


52 


2 


3 


46 


2 


3 


44 


2 


3 


40 


2 


2f 


38 


2 


21 


36 


_ 


" 


- 


2 


31 


58 


2 


4 


9 


2 


31 


8 


2 


3i 


8 


2 


3i 


8 


2 


31 


8 


2 


31 


8 


Ya 
2 


rdR 

31 


'pe 

58 


2 


4 


9 


2 


2| 


36 


2 


2| 


32 


2 


2i 


31 


2 


2 


30 


4 


2 


72 


2 


2 


60 


_ 


~" 


_ 


2 


2f 


48 


■2 


21 


36 


2 


2i 


34 


2 


2 


30 


2 


2 


30 
















— 




2 


21 


42 


4 


21- 


88 


4 


2 


72 


4 


2 


72 


4 


2 


72 


2 


2 


36 


2 


2 


36 


_ 




_ 


4 


21 


104 


4 


2| 


72 


4 


2 


60 


4 


2 


56 


4 


2 


54 


2 


2 


34 


2 


2 


28 


_ 


- 


_ 


4 


21 


88 


1 


2 


18 


1 


2 


15 


1 


2 


14 


1 


2 


13 


1 


2 


17 


1 


2 


14 


_ 




_ 


1 


2 


22 


a 


2i 


62 


2 


2 


50 


2 


2 


50 


g 


2 


50 


2 


2 


48 


2 


2 


48 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


~4 


76 


2 


2| 


26 


2 


21 


24 


2 


2* 


24 


2 


21 


24 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


21 


26 


2 


2i 


30 


2 


2 


2-1 


2 


2 


24 


2 


2 


24 


2 


If 


24 


2 


H 


18 


- 


- 


- 


2 


21 


32 


2 


2£ 


52 


2 


2* 


46 


2 


2 


40 


16 


2 


38 


2 


If 


36 


2 


if 


34 




_ 


_ 


2 


21 


58 


1 


2 


18 


1 


2 


14 


1 


2 


14 


1 


2 


14 


1 


U 


12 


1 


if 


12 


- 


- 


- 


1 


2 


20 


l 


7 


11 


1 


6§ 


9 


1 


61 


9 


1 


6 


8h 


1 


6 


10 


1 


6 


10 


1 


71 


14 


1 


7 


14 


1 


3i 


29 


1 


3 


25 


1 


3 


24 


1 


2| 


24 


1 


2| 


28 


1 


2! 


26 


1 


3 


33 


1 


31 


37 


1 


2i 


16 


1 


2* 


14 


1 2 


13 


























1 


21 


18 


s 


3| 


82 


2 


3i 


66 


2 3 


64 










2f 












2f 




2 


3* 


82 


s 


5 2i 


48 


2 


21 


40 


2 


i 2i 


34 


la 








2 


36 














2 


2* 


52 



full pattern lengths for each gang of Standing Rigging. 



344 



A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 



Names of Rigging. 



PORE-MAST AND 
YARD GEAR. Con. 

Lower Studding-sail 
Sheets - - - - 

Lower Studding-sail 
Outhaul - - - - 

Swinging-boom Top- 
ping-lifts - - - 

Falls and Lizard for 
Topping-lifts - 

After Guys - - - 

Forward Guys 

Gear Tricing-lines 

FORE TOP-MAST & 
YARD GEAR. 

Shrouds and Pendants 

(pairs) - - - - 
Lanyards for Shrouds 

and Pendants - - 

Stays 

Breast Backstays(prs) 
Falls for Breast Back 

stays ----- 
Standing Backstays 

(pairs) - - - - 
Lanyards for Standing 

Backstays - - - 
Cat-Harpen Legs - 
Top-Burtons - - - 
Runners - - - - 

Top Tackle Pendants 
Top Tackle Falls - 
Jackstays (bending) 

Iron _ - - - - 
Foot Ropes - - - - 
Stirrups - - - - - 
Flemish Horses - - 
Parrel - - - - - 
Top-sail Ties (all 

hide) 

Halliards for Top-sail 

Tyes ----- 
Rolling Tackle - - 

Lifts 

Braces 

Stay-sail Halliards - 
Stay-sail Downhaul - 
Stay-sail Sheets - - 
Sheets - - - - - 
Clew-lines - - - - 
Bow-lines - - - - 
Bunt-lines - - - - 
Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 



Ships of the Iiine. 



3 DECKS. 



4i 



3| 

9 

•8 

3f 

10 

5 

U 
3i 

9 
5 



32 

58 
44 

108 
76 

128 
44 



123 

84 
70 



52 



40 

4 

17G 



53 

160 



15 

6 
6 
6 

38 

120 
18 
36 

118 
68 
40 
60 
82 
96 
72 
71 
15 



2 DECKS. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 



12 



41 



32 

56 
40 

104 

70 

120 

42 



123 

84 
65 
80 

52 

86 

40 
4 

170 



52 
150 



15 
6 
6 

6 

36 

116 
18 
34 

116 
68 
40 
60 
80 
95 
70 
70 
14 



30 
50 

38 

100 
66 

108 
42 



123 

84 
64 

78 

52 

84 

40 
4 

158 
8 

45 

130 



12 
6 
6 
6 

36 

98 
18 
34 
113 
68 
40 
60 
71 
88 
64 
65 
14 



| Frigates* 



Razees. 



4~3f 



30 
50 
40 

100 
66 

108 
42 



123 



1st Class. 



84 


10 


65 


2 


81 


2 


52 


4 


86 


2 


40 


4 


4 


2 


162 


2 


8 


2 


47 


2 


135 


2 


12 


2 


6 


6 


6 


2 


6 


i 


36 


2 


106 


2 


18 


1 


34 


2 


113 


2 


70 


1 


42 


1 


62 


2 


72' 


2 


90, 


2 


64 


2 


67 


2 


14, 


2 



Run'g- Fugging' for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Cbn. 345 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 








Brig- 


Schoon- 


















Brigs. 






Steamers. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




a lit i lies 


ers. 














^ 






£ 




£J 




& 






£ 






5 






£J 


6 


ffl 


c 







B 


_£ 


s 

02 


c 
o 

►J 


d 

y, 





to 

c 


6 


6 

X 


c 

-1 


i 


6 

s 
X 


c 

►J 


i 


6 

N 


c 
<u 





TO 


C 
O 
►J 


2 


3 


28 


2 


3 


26 


2 


2| 


26 


2 


2| 


24 


2 


24 


18 


2 


24 


18 


2 


2* 


12 


2 


3 


30 


2 


3* 


48 


2 


34 


34 


2 


3 


32 


2 


3 


31 


2 


24 


30 


2 


24 


30 


2 


2f 


36 


2 


3* 


46 


2 


4i 


36 


2 


4 


32 


2 


31 


30 


2 


3f 


30 


2 


34 


28 


2 


34 


26 


2 


31 


35 


2 


44 


42 


2 


2| 


90 


2 


2| 


76 


2 


2i 


74 


2 


24 


73 


2 


2 


68 


2 


2 


66 


2 


24 


30 


2 


2! 


90 


2 


3i 


54 


2 


3 


50 


2 


2f 


44 


2 


2f 


42 


2 


2i 


40 


2 


24 


38 


2 


3 


35 


2 


34 


64 


2 


3i 


94 


2 


3 


78 


2 


2f 


72 


2 


2f 


70 


2 


2* 


64 


2 


24 


62 


2 


3 


36 


2 


34 


100 


2 


2* 


36 


2 


2i 


30 


2 


2 


28 


2 


2 


27 


2 


14 


26 


2 


14 


26 








2 


2| 


42 


5 


5£ 


82 


1 


4* 


■ 58 


4 


4i 


57 


3 


44 


45 


3 


4 


39 


3 


4 


39 


2 


3! 


24 


5 


5* 


106 


10 


2f 


70 


E 


2| 


56 


8 


2| 


56 


6 


24 


42 


















_ 


10 


2| 


70 


2 


84 


54 


2 


74 


45 


2 


7 


44 


2 


7 


43 


2 


54 


42 


2 


54 


42 


1 


i 


24 


2 


8£ 


64 


2 


7 


64 


l 


7 


28 


1 


64 


27 


1 


(5 


26 


1 


54 


25 


1 


54 


23 


- 




" 


2 


7 


80 


4 


34 


52 


2 


34 


24 


2 


3 


22 


2 


3 


21 


2 


24 


16 


2 


21 


16 


- 


- 


" 


4 


34 


52 


2 


9 


68 


2 


8 


60 


2 


71 


58 


2 


74 


561 


1 


64 


28 


1 


64 


26 


1 


44 


28 


2 


9 


84 


4 


4| 


40 


\ 


4 


36 


4 


34 


36 


4 


34 


36 




















4 


4£ 


40 


2 


4 


3 


2 


34 


3 


2 


34 


3 


2 


34 


3 


2 


3 


3 


2 


3 


3 


2 


24 


2 


2 


4 


3 


2 


3i 


134 


•2 


3 


112 


2 


3 


104 


2 


-7 


100 


2 


24 


98 


2 


24 


90 


_ 






2 


34 


160 


2 


4 


7 


2 


3f 


6 


2 


3! 


6 


2 


34 


6 


2 


34 


6 


2 


34 


5 


- 


- 




2 


4 


7 


2 


8 


40 


2 


6i 


35 


2 


6| 


32 


1 


H 


18 


1 


5 


18 


1 


5 


16 


U 
1 


m'st 
4 


r'p 

34 


2 


8 


46 


2 


4 


116 


















J 
















_ 




2 


4 


134 


2 


3* 


11 


2 


3i 


9 


2 


34 


9 


2 


3 


9 


2 


24 


8 


2 


24 


8 


2 


2i 


8 


2 


3* 


12 


6 


2* 


6 


4 


2i 


4 


4 


2 


4 


4 


2 


4 


4 


2 


4 


4 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


6 


2h 


6 


2 


3 


5 


2 


2| 


4 


2 


2i 


4 


Q 


24 


4 


2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


3 


2 


3 


5 


1 


6k 


4£ 


1 


6 


44 


1 


51 


4 


1 


54 


4 


1 


5 


4 


1 


5 


4 


1 


3| 


3 


1 


64 


5 


2 


64 


30 


2 


6 


23 


2 


5* 


22 


2 


54 


22 


15* 


9 


1 


54 


8 


1 


44 


7 


2 


6i 


41 


2 


3* 


90 


2 


3i 


82 





34 


70 


2 


3 


68 


13 


30 


1 


3 


30 


1 


2f 


41 


2 


34 


100 


1 


2f 


15 


1 


24 


14 


1 


24 


13 


1 


24 


12 


12 


12 


1 


2 


12 


1 


2 


5 


1 


2! 


15 


2 


5* 


29 


2 


5 


26 


2 


5 


25 


2 


5 


24 


2 


44 


21 


2 


44 


21 


2 


4 


20 


2 


54 


35 


2 


3i 


94 


2 


34 


78 


2 


34 


74 


2 


3 


721 


2 


24 


60 


2 


21 


64 


2 


2h 


64 


2 


34 


124 


1 


24 


65 


1 


2i 


60 


1 


2^ 


60 


1 




56 


1 


21 


48 


1 


24' 48, 


_ 




_ 


1 


24 


60 


1 


2* 


36 


1 


2 


34 


1 


2 


32 


1 


2 


321 


1 


2 


30 


1 


If 30 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


2 


34 


2 


2f 


56 


2 


24 


52 


2 


2i 


50 


2 


2i 


50 


2 


24 


48 


2 


24 


48 


_ 




_ 


2 


24 


50 


2 


5* 


64 


2 5i 


54 


2 


5 


48 


2 


5 


46 


2 


4 


46 


2 


4 


46 


2 


3? 


46 


2 


54 


71 


2 


34 


74 


2 3 


62 


2 


3 


60 


2 


2f 


59 


2 


24 


58 


2 


24 


56 


2 


24 


56 


2 


34 


86 


2 
2 


3i 


54 


2 3 


48 


2 


3 


44 


2 


2f 


42 


2 


24 


40 


2 


24 


40 


2 


2 


52 


2 


34 60 


3| 


2 3 


50 


2 


3 


46 


2 


24 


45 


2 


24 


42 


2 


24 


42 


2 


24 


44 


2 


34 66 


4i 


11 


2 


4 


10 


2 


4 


10 


2 


34 


10 


2 


34 


7 


2 


34 


7 


2 


3 1 


7. 


2 


44 


12 



346 



A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing' and 







Ships 


of the L 


Ul< 






Razees. 


Frigates. 






2 DECKS. 






3 DE( 








1st Class 




1st Class. 


2d Class. 


JL*3L V^XClOo* 


Names of Rigging* 






















s i 


ength. 

o 
ize. 

ength 


6 


N 




6 


a 


B 


6 


i 




( 


5 02 


■j £; 02 


•j 


_£ 


33 


►J 


_£ 


3j 


h3 


a 


GQ 


►J 


FORE TOP-MAST & 


















YARD GEAR. Con. 




























Whips for Reef Pen- 




























dants - - - - - 


2 34 


79 


2 3i 


78 


2 


34 


74 


2 


31 


74 


2 


34 


66 


Clew Jiggers - - - 


2 2£ 


102 


2 2| 


96 


2 


2| 


92 


2 


24 


94 


2 


24 


86 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 3 


24 


2 3 


24 


2 


3 


24 


2 


3 


24 


2 


2f 


24 


Bunt-runner - - - 


1 4 


11 


1 4 


10 


1 


4 


10 


1 


4 


10 


1 


4 


8 


Jigger for Bunt-runner 


1 3 


30 


1 3 


30 


I 


3 


30 


1 


3 


30 


1 


2f 


25 


Boom Tricing-lines - 


2 2§ 


30 


2 2i 


26 


2 


2 


26 


2 


2 


26 


2 


2 


22 


Studding-s'l Halliards 


2 4 


104 


2 4 


100 


2 


4 


96 


2 


3! 


100 


2 


31 


92 


Studding-sail Tacks 


2 3| 


94 


2 'di 


86 


2 


3| 


80 


2 


31 


84 


2 


34 


84 


Studding-sail Sheets 


2 34 


56 


2 3| 


48 


2 


34 


45 


2 


34 


47 


2 


34 


46 


Studding-sail Down- 




























hauls ----- 


2 3 


70 


2 3 


68 


2 


2! 


60 


2 


2! 


62 


2 


2-J 


60 


Studding-sail Boom 




























Brace - - - - - 


2 Sh 


60 


2 3§ 


60 


2 


3| 


60 


2 


3£ 


60 


2 


34 


50 


Studding-sail Top- 




























ping-lifts - - - - 


2 4 


40 


2 4 


40 


2 


4 


40 


2 


4 


40 


2 


3| 


35 


FORE TOP-GAL'NT 




























M 5 ST & YARD GEAR 




























Shrouds (pairs) - - 


2 5 


66 


2 5 


64 


2 


5 


63 


2 


5 


63 


2 


4* 


56 


Stay - : - - - - 


1 5 


46 


1 5 


45 


1 


5 


41 


1 


5 


42 


1 


4i 


39 


Breast Backstays(prs) 


1 5 


52 


1 5 


51 


1 


5 


49 


-1 


5 


50 


1 


44 


46 


Falls for Breast Back- 




























stays ----- 


2 21 


24 


2 2| 


24 


2 


2J 


24 


2 


24 


24 


2 


24 


20 


Standing Backstays 




























(pairs) - - - - 
Long Yard, or Mast 


1 6 


56 


1 6 


54 


1 


6 


51 


1 


6 


53 


1 


54 


48 




























Rope - - - - - 


1 6* 


58 


1 6A 


58 


1 


6 


52 


1 


51 


54 


1 


54 


49 


Short Mast Rope - - 


1 5| 


12 


1 5| 


12 


1 


5* 


12 


1 


5| 


12 


1 


54 


10* 


Jackstays (Iron) - - 




























Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 3 


9 


2 3 


9 


2 


3 


8* 


2 


2f 


8£ 


2 


2| 


8 


Stirrups ----- 


2 2A 


2 


2 S{ 


2 


2 


2i 


2 


2 


24 


2 


2 


2 


2 


Parrel - - - - - 


1 4 


3 


1 4 


3 


1 


4 


3 


1 


4 


3 


1 


31 


3 


Lifts 


2 3f 


52 


2 3| 


50 


2 


3± 


50 


2 


3§ 


50 


2 


34 


44 


Braces ----- 


2 2| 


128 


2 2| 


120 


2 


2| 


116 


2 


24 


118 


2 


24 


112 


Halliards - - - - 


1 3i 


57 


1 3| 


56 


1 


3 


52 


1 


3 


53 


1 


21 


48 


Sheets 


2 a 


66 


2 4} 


65 


2 


4| 


60 


2 


44 


62 


2 


31 


56 


Clew-lines - - - - 


2 2§ 


90 


2 2| 


84 


2 


24 


81 


2 


24 


83 


2 


2 


78 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 2i 


96 


2 2| 


94 


2 


2 


88 


2 


2 


88 


2 


2 


84 


Bunt-lines - - - - 


2 2f 


48 


2 2| 


48 


2 


2i 


44 


2 


24 


44 


2 


24 


40 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 2i 


24 


2 2| 


24 


2 


at 


24 


2 


24 


24 


2 


2 


20 


Bunt Jiggers - - - 


1 2| 


22 


1 2| 


21 


1 


2J- 


20 


1 


2* 


20 


1 


24 


18 


Tripping-line - - - 


1 2| 


29 


1 2| 


26 


1 


2* 


24 


1 


24 


25 


1 


24 


24 


Studding-sail Hall'rds 


2 3 


94 


2 3 


88 


2 


3 


84 


2 


3 


86 


2 


21 


84 


Studding-sail Sheets 


2 3| 


32 


2 3| 


28 


2 


34 


27 


2 


34 


27 


2 


3 


24 


Studding-sail Tacks 


2 2f 


64 


2 2| 


58 


2 


2| 


54 


2 


S| 


54 


2 


24 


54 


F'RE ROYAL MAST 




























AND YARD GEAR. 




























Shrouds (pair) - - 
Falls for Shrouds 


1 4 


38 


1 4 


38 


1 


4 


37 


1 


4 


37 


1 


3| 


32 


2 2 


10 


2 2 


10 


2 


2 


10 


2 


2 


10 


2 


2 


8 


Stay 1 


1 3| 


58 


1 3i 


57 


1 


34 


52 


1 


3 


53 


1 


3 


46 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Con. 34; 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 






? s. 


Brig- 


Schoon- 








2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


Bri, 


a nt i lies 


ers. 


Steamers. 


c 


<H 


HE 

S 





d 

s 


5 
1-1 


_l 


6 


c 


6 


o 
X 


0) 


i 


i 

x 


to 

s 

(D 


J 


s 

in 


61) 

B 

a 




oj 

a? 


o 


6 


03 
N 
CO 


5 

a 


2 


3 


60 


2 


2f 


56 


2 


2* 


50 


2 


24 


48 


2 


2i 


46 


2 


2 


46 


2 


2 


50 


2 


3 


76 


2 


2i 


80 


■2 


2 


66 


2 


2 


62 


2 


2 


60 


2 


If 


60 


2 


U 


60 


2 


1ft 


46 


2 


2i 


94 


2 


2f 


24 


2 


2* 


22 


2 


2§ 


20 


2 


2J 


18 


2 


2i 


16 


2 


2{ 


16 


2 


2i 


12 


2 


21 


24 


1 


3* 


8 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3 


6 


1 


3 


6 


1 


3 


6 


1 


3 


6 


_ 




_ 


1 


3* 


10 


1 


3| 


22 


1 


2 


18 


1 


2 


16 


1 


2 


16 


1 


2 


12 


1 


2 


12 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


2| 


32 


2 


2 


20 


2 


H 


20 


2 


1* 


20 


2 


H 


20 


2 


1} 


18 


2 


u 


18 


2 


H 


14 


2 


2 


30 


2 


3* 


82 


2 


3i 


68 


2 


3 


64 


2 


3 


63 


2 


2! 


62 


2 


2f 


60 


2 


2£ 


66 


2 


31 


98 


2 


3 


79 


•-2 


3 


62 


2 


2f 


56 


2 


2f 


54 


2 


2i 


50 


2 


2i 


48 


2 


24 


72 


2 


3 


98 


2 


3 


42 


2 


3 


40 


2 


2! 


38 


2 


2| 


37 


2 


2f 


30 


2 


2! 


30 


2 


2* 


32 


2 


3 


44 


2 


2i 


54 


2 


2i 


42 


2 


2 


41 


2 


2 


40 


2 


U 


36 


2 


11 


36 


2 


1ft 


40 


2 


2i 


58 


2 


3| 


50 


2 


3 


40 


2 


3 


40 


2 


3 


40 




















2 


3i 


60 


2 


3* 


35 


2 


3i 


30 


2 


3} 


30 


2 


3i 


30 




















2 


3* 


40 


2 


4 


52 


2 


3i 


44 


2 


3i 


42 


2 


3 


41 


2 


2! 


36 


2 


2f 


36 


1 


2| 


15 


2 


3| 


68 


1 


4 


35 


1 


3A 


31 


1 


3i 


30 


1 


3 


29 


1 


21 


27 


1 


2f 


26 


1 


2i 


2s 


1 


4 


40 


1 


4 


42 


1 


3h 


37 


1 


3i 


35 


1 


3 


33 


1 


3f 


31 


1 


2f 


29 


- 


_ 


- 


1 


4 


53 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


16 


2 


2 


14 


2 


2 


14 


2 


11 


14 


2 


1J 


14 


- 




- 


2 


2 


20 


1 


5 


44 


1 


4§ 


39 


1 


4 


37 


1 


4 


36 


1 


3* 


33 


1 


3i 


30 


1 


3 


34 


1 


5 


54 


1 


5i 


44 


1 


4| 


41 


1 


4i 


36 


1 


4i 


35 


1 


31 


34 


1 


3| 


34 


! 


3 


35 


1 


5i 


55 


1 


4f 


9k 


1 


4 


8* 


1 


3| 


8 


1 


3| 


8 


1 


3* 


7 


1 


3i 


7 


- 


" 


- 


1 


41 


12 


2 


2* 


8 


2 


2i 


7 


2 


2i 


7 


2 


2{ 


7 


2 


2 


6 


2 


2 


6 


2 


2 


6 


2 


2i 


8 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


o 


2 


















_ 


2 


2 


2 


1 


3i 


3 


1 


3 


91 


1 


3 


o 


1 


3 


2 


1 


2* 


2 


1 


2| 


2 


1 


2 


2 


1 


3* 


3 


2 


3 


42 


2 


2f 


36 


2 


2ft 


34 


2 


2A 


33 


2 


2i 


30 


2 


2i 


30 


2 


2 


23 


2 


3 


45 


2 


2i 


102 


2 


2 


80 


2 


2 


75 


2 


2 


74 


2 


•71 

-4 


48 


2 


2i 


48 


2 


2 


52 


2 


2ft 


132 


1 


2| 


45 


1 


2h 


35 


1 


2i 


32 


1 


2 


30 


1 


o 


25 


1 


2 


25 


- 


_ 


_ 


1 


2f 


54 


2 


3| 


50 


2 


3i 


46 


2 


3 


42 


2 


3 


41 


2 


2f 


40 


2 


2f 


38 


2 


2 


44 


2 


3£ 


60 


2 


2 


74 


2 


If 


60 


2 


U 


56 


2 


H 


54 


2 


H 


42 


2 


lft 


42 


2 


li 


43 


2 


2 


80 


2 


2 


74 


2 


U 


62 


2 


i* 


58 


2 


1* 


54 


o 


H 


53 


2 


n 


52 


2 


li 


54 


2 


2 


84 


2 


2i 


36 


1 


2} 


17 


1 


2 


15 


1 


2 


14 


1 


U 


14 


1 


if 


14 


_ 




_ 


2 


2ft 


46 


2 


2 


20 


2 


U 


16 


2 


1* 


15 


2 


H 


14 


2 


H 


12 


2 


H 


12 




_ 


- 


2 


2 


20 


1 


2 


17 


1 


1? 


16 


1 


1* 


15 


1 


H 


15 


1 


11 


13 


1 


H 


13 


- 


_ 


_ 


1 


2 


22 


1 


2* 


22 


1 


2 


20 


1 


1! 


19 


1 


if 


18 


1 


n 


17 


1 


lft 


17 


1 


li 


IS 


1 


21 


26 


2 


2| 


74 


2 


2i 


62 


2 


2| 


58 


2 


2i 


56 


2 


2i 


54 


2 


2J 


52 


2 


2 


70 


2 


2* 


92 


2 


2f 


22 


2 


2* 


20 


2 


2i 


20 


2 


2i 


20 


2 


2 


16 


2 


2 


16 


2 


2 


36 


2 


2i 


28 


2 


21 


46 


2 


2 


38 


2 


2 


37 


2 


2 


36 


2 


U 


32 


2 


i? 


32 


2 


1! 


32 


2 


2i 


46 


1 


3| 


30 


1 


3 


28 


1 


3 


26 


1 


2h 


24 


1 


2i 


22 


1 


2* 


21 














2 


2 


8 


2 U 


8 


2 


1* 


8 


2 


1* 


8 


2 


M 


7 


2 


lft 


7 














1 


2| 


40 


1 


2f 


34 


1 


2* 


34 


1 


2i 


33 


1 


2i 


32 


1 


2 


30 















348 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 





Ships of the Line. 








Frigates* 








2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DECKS. 






1st Class. 




1st Class. 


2d Class. 


Names of Rigging. 






X. 






£ 






.c 






£ 






. 




6 


N 

o5 


c 


6 


03 


fee 

a 

CD 

1-1 


p 


6 

N 
02 


15 

B 


6 




"3; 

s 

CD 
•J 


c 


N 
02 


5 

1 


F'RE ROYAL MAST 














& YARD GEAR. Con. 
































Backstays (pair) - - 


1 


4 


62 


1 


4 


60 


1 


4 


57 


1 


4 


60 


1 


3! 


54 


Yardrope - - - - 


1 


3| 


62 


1 


3f 


60 


1 


3! 


58 


1 


3! 


60 


1 


3| 


54 


Jackstays (Iron) - - 
































Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


2! 


7 


2 


2| 


7 


2 


2£ 


7 


2 


2f 


7 


2 


2! 


6 


Parrel - - - - - 


1 


n 


2 


1 


H 


2 


1 


1* 


2 


1 


1! 


2 


1 


1! 


2 


Lifts 


2 


3 


58 


2 


3 


56 


2 


3 


52 


2 


2! 


52 


2 


2! 


48 


Braces ----- 


2 


Si 


104 


2 


2| 


106 


2 


2! 


88 


2 


2! 


86 


2 


2! 


78 


Halliards - - - - 


1 


2! 


37 


1 


2! 


33 


l 


2i 


32 


1 


2* 


33 


1 


2 


30 


Sheets ----- 


2 


3 


44 


2 


3 


40 


2 


3 


40 


2 


3 


40 


2 


2f 


38 


Clew-lines - - - - 


o 


2! 


48 


2 


2! 


46 


2 


2£ 


46 


2 


2* 


46 


2 


2 


42 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 


2* 


114 


2 


a* 


110 


2 


2i 


101 


2 


2 


103 


2 


2 


100 


Bunt-line - - - - 


1 


3* 


27 


1 


2i 


25 


1 


2i 


24 


1 


2i 


24 


1 


2 


22 


Tripping-line - - - 


1 


2 


30 


1 


2 


30 


1 


2 


28 


1 


2 


29 


1 


2 


26 


FORE TRY-SAIL 
































M'ST & GAFF G'AR. 
































Peak Halliards - - 


1 


3| 


63 


1 


3i 


60 


1 


3f 


53 


1 


3! 


56 


1 


3! 


58 


Throat Halliards 


1 


31 


45 


] 


3i 


45 


1 


3i 


39 


1 


3* 


42 


1 


3i 


38 


Vangs - - - - - 


2 


3 


68 


2 


2! 


60 


2 


3 


56 


2 


3 


58 


2 


2! 


56 


Peak Brails (pairs of) 


2 


2 


88 


2 


2 


80 


2 


2 


78 


2 


2 


78 


2 


2 


74 


Throat Brails (p'rs of) 


1 


3| 


44 


1 


3! 


42 


1 


3| 


40 J 


1 


3! 


40 


1 


3i 


38 


Middle Brails (p'rs of J 
Foot Brails (pairs of ; 


1 


3 


38 


1 


3 


36 


1 


2| 


36 


1 


2f 


36 


1 


2! 


32 


1 


3 


44 


1 


3 


40 


1 


3 


40 


1 


2f 


40 


1 


2! 


34 


Sheets - - - - - 


2 


4 


91 


2 


4 


90 


2 


3! 


85 


2 


3! 


85- 


2 


3! 


78 


MAIN-MAST AND 
































YARD GEAR. 
































Pendants (pairs) - - 


2 


10| 


11 

Warps. 


2 


10! 


10! 


2 


10 


10 


2 


10 


10 


2 


10 


10 


Shrouds (pairs) - - 


11 


10| 


( HI 

^ 113 

f 88 


10 


10| 


(142 
} 147 


10 


10 


U27 
$133 


10 


10 


U35 
$141 


10 


10 


a22 

$132 


Lanyards for Shrouds 


22 


5| 


220 


20 


5| 


200 


20 


5 


170 


20 


5 


170 


20 


5 


170 


Stays 


2 


15 


55 


2 


15 


54 


2 


14! 


50 


2 


14! 


51 


2 


14 


51 


Futtock Shrouds - - 


12 


6! 


39 


12 


6! 


36 


12 


6 


30 


12 


6 


30 


10 


5! 


25 


Slings Proper (to go 
over Cap) — Chain 






























































for all vessels - - 
































Slings, Preventer 


1 


12 


12 


1 


12 


11 


1 


11! 


10 


1 


11! 


10 


1 


10 


9* 


Lanyard for Slings 
































(four-stranded) - - 


1 


5 


22 


1 


5 


22 


1 


4f 


21 


1 


4| 


21 


1 


4! 


20 


Pendant Tackle Falls* 


2 


4 


120 


2 


4 


114 


2 


4 


108 


2 


3f 


112 


2 


3f 


104 


Runner ----- 


1 


8 


24 


1 


8 


23 


1 


8 


22 


1 


7 


22 


1 


7 


18 


Falls for Runner - - 


1 


4 


59 


1 


4 


59 


1 


4 


59 


1 


3£ 


59 


1 


3f 


44 


Jeer Falls - - - - 


2 


5f 


140 


2 


5f 


136 


2 


5! 


130 


2 


5i 


134 


2 


5 


110 


Jackstays (bending) 

Iron 

Jackstays (reefing) - 
































2 


3! 


18 


2 


3! 


18 


2 


3! 


18 


2 


3! 


18 


2 


3* 


15 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


5* 


20 


2 


5i 


19 


2 


5 


19 


2 


5 


19 


2 


4! 


16 



All email vessels which are not allowed Jeers and Top Tackle Tails, the Pendant Tackle Falls 



Ran'g Rigging* for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. l$*-Con. 349 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 




Brig- 


Schoon- 


| 










Brigs. 




Steamers. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




aiitines 


ers. 








_• 




£ 






£ 




^ 




JS 






£ 






a 






jd 


6 


6 
H2 


S 

s 


J 


02 


"S: 

c 


Q 


6 
w 


c 


d 


6 
s 


s 


6 


d 

N 

X 


c 




-j 

N 

X 


c 
<u 

►J 


£ 


c 
s 

X 




d 


6 
s 

02 


1 

s 


1 


3i 


50 


1 


3 


42 


1 


3 


41 


1 


•2-k 


40 


1 


31 


36 


1 


2^ 


34 














1 


3 


48 


1 


2| 


43 


1 


2* 


40 


1 


2f 


3b 


1 


4 


36 


1 


2* 


34 














2 


2^ 


6 


2 


2i 


5 


2 


21 


5 


2 




5 


2 





5 


2 


2 


5 














1 


U 


2 


1 


H 


2 


1 


H 


2 


1 


If 


2 


1 


H 


li 


1 


H 


li 














21 2| 


44 


2 


2i 


40 


2 


2 


36 


2 


2 


35 


2 


2 


32 


2 


2 


32 














2| 2i 


68 


2 


2 


56 


2 


2 


52 


2 


2 


50 


2 


2 


48 


2 


2 


46 














I 


If 


28 












































o 


2* 


34 


2 


** 


26 


2 


2 


27 


2 


2 


26 


2 


2 


26 


2 


2 


26 














2 


2 


40 


2 


1A 


32 


2 


u 


30 


2 


H 


30 


2 


L| 


29 


2 


H 


29 














2 


U 


82 


2 


H 


72 


2 


i? 


72 


2 


H 


68 


2 


1 


66 


2 


1 


60 














1 


2 


20 












































I U 


24 


1 


U 


22 


1 


ii 


21 


1 


li 


20 


1 


1 


19 


1 


1 


18 














i 
lj 3} 


45 


1 


3 


31 


1 


3 


30 


1 


3 


29 


1 


4 


28 


1 


2| 


27 


i 


3t 


55 


1 


3i 


55 


13 


34 


1 


2! 


30 


1 


2| 


28 


1 


2f 


26 


I 


2| 


25 


1 


2* 


25 


i 


3t 


40 


1 


3 


43 


2| 2i 


52 


2 


2| 


46 


2 


2 


44 


2 


2 


43 


g 


2 


42 


2 


2 


40 


2 


2! 


5S 


2 


2* 


60 


2 2 


64 


1 


2 


31 


1 


1| 


30 


1 


H 


28 


1 


li 


28 


1 


H 


28 


2 


H 


>0 


2 


2 


76 


I, 3 


36 


1 


2! 


34 


1 


2| 


28 


1 


2f 


28 


1 




28 


1 


21 


28 


pen. 

1 
w'lp 

2 


2! 


10 
40 


1 


3 


38 


1 3f 


30 


1 


2 


28 


1 


2 


26 


1 


2 


26 


1 


L| 


25 


1 


If 


25 


1 


2| 


28 


1 


2i 


34 


1 2i 


32 


1 


2 


28 


1 


2 


26 


1 


2 


26 


1 


•2 


25 


1 


2 


25 


1 


24 


30 


1 


2i 


36 


2 


3* 


66 


2 


3 


54 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


46 


2 


3 


36 


2 


2| 


36 


2 


41 


54 


2 


3* 


78 


2 


9 


9 


2 


8 


9 


2 


7* 


8 


2 


7* 


8 


2 


G 


7 


1 


G 


4 


1 


6 


4 


2 


9 


9 


9 


9 


c 86 
$113 


7 


8 


140 


7 


7* 


129 


6 


7* 


108 


5 


6 


82 


3 


6 


67 


3 


6 


66 


9 


9 


( 90 
$120 


IS 


4| 


153 


14 


4 


112 


14 


3f 


112 


12 


3f 


96 


10 


3 


70 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 




18 


4* 


153 


•2 


12* 


44 


2 


10* 


40 


2 


10 


36 


2 


9| 34 


2 


8 


34 


2 


6| 


30 


2' 


6| 


30 


2 


12* 


58 


10 


5| 


25 




Iron 


— 


_ 


Iron 


- 


— 


" 


~ 


~ 


I'n 


- 


— 


I'n 


— 


— 


I'n 


- 


12 


5* 


30 


1 


10 


9 


1 


8 


8 


1 


7* 


8 


1 


7* 


8 


1 


6 


7 


- 






_ 




_ 


1 


10 


9 


1 


4f 


18 


1 


4 


16 


1 


3* 


15 


1 


3| 


15 


1 


3 


14 














1 


4! 


18 


2 


3£ 


90 


2 


3i 


84 


2 


3i 


80 


2 


3| 


74 


2 


3 


70 


2 


3 


90 


2 


2f 


90 


2 


3* 


94 


1 


7 


16 


- 














_ 


_ 




















1 


7 


20 


1 


3f 


40 
































I 






1 


3f 


64 


2 


5 


90 
































_ 






2 


5 


100 


2 


3 


14 


2 


2! 


13 


2 


2| 


11 


2 


2i 


11 


2 


2^ 


10 








_ 






2 


3 


13 


2 


U 


15* 


2 


4i 


14 


2 


4 


13 


2 


3| 


13 


2 


3| 


11 


2 


3| 


9 


2 


3| 


9 


2 


4* 


14 



may be increased in size one-fourth in addition to the specified size in the foregoing Table. 



350 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 





Ships of the Line. 








Frigates. 






2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DECKS. 






1st Class. 




1st Class. 


2d Class. 




Names of Rigging. 


































J 


6 

N 

«3 


60 

S 


6 


N 

(55 


"Si 
1 


i 


o3 

53 


I 


i 


6 

N 

'(55 


6£ 

3 

►J 


c* 


N 
(55 


60 

B 


MAIN-MAST AND 






















YARD GEAR. Con. 
































Stirrups 


8 


3| 


8 


8 


3| 


8 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


Truss Pendants (hide) 


2 


7 


23 


2 


7 


22 


2 


64 


21 


2 


64 


21 


2 


^ 


18 


Falls for Truss Pen- 
































dants - - - - - 


2 


3i 


53 


2 


3£ 


52 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


52 


2 


3 


54 


Lifts 


2 


H 


102 


2 


54 


86 


2 


5i 


80 


2 


5i 


82 


2 


5 


78 


Braces ------ 


2 


4f 


180 


2 


44 


180 


2 


4* 


180 


2 


44 


180 


2 


44 


168 


Tacks (tapered) - - 


2 


64 


90 


2 


64 


82 


2 


64 


70 


2 


64 


72 


2 


6 


70 


Sheets (tapered) - - 


2 


64 


94 


2 


61 


86 


2 


6* 


74 


2 


64 


76 


2 


6 


74 


Clew Garnets - - - 


2 


4 


90 


2 


4 


84 


2 


3f 


80 


2 


3| 


84 


2 


34 


74 


Runner (for Main 
































Bow-line) - - - 


1 


44 


8 


1 


44 


7 


1 


44 


7 


1 


44 


7 


1 


4 


6 


Whip for Runner - 


1 


3| 


18 


1 


3 


15 


i 


3 


15 


1 


3 


15 


1 


3 


15 


Reef Pendants - - 


2 


44 


12 


2 


41 


12 


2 


4i 


12 


2 


41 


12 


2 


44 


10 


Bunt-lines (pairs) - 
Bunt-line Whips 


2 


3i 


68 


2 


3i 


68 


2 


3 


60 


2 


3 


62 


2 


3 


60 


2 


3 


72 


2 


3 


62 


2 


21 


62 


2 


2f 


62 


2 


2f 


62 


Leech-lines - - - 


4 


3 


128 


4 


3 


116 


4 


2| 


112 


4 


2f 


116 


4 


24 


108 


After Leech-lines 


4 


3 


108 


4 


3 


106 


4 


2! 


98 


4 


2f 


100 


4 


24 


84 


Slab-line - - - - 


1 


% 


* 23 


1 


24 


23 


1 


2i 


23 


1 


24 


23 


1 


24 


21 


Clew Jiggers - - - 


2 


3 


98 


2 


3 


96 


2 


2! 


88 


2 


2| 


92 


2 


2| 


80 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 


34 


36 


2 


3i 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


3 


34 


Boom Jiggers - - - 


2 


2| 


52 


2 


2f 


50 


2 


2| 


42 


2 


24 


44 


2 


24 


40 


Boom Jiggers (in and 


















— 














out) ----- 


2 


3 


74 


2 


3 


66 


2 


3 


62 


2 


3 


64 


2 


2f 


60 


Bunt Whip - - - 


1 


24 


28 


1 


2* 


27 


I 


24 


26 


1 


24 


27 


1 


24 


22 


MAIN TOP-MAST & 
































YARD GEAR. 
































Shrouds and Pendants 
































(pairs) - - - - 
Lanyards for Pen- 


6 


7 


135 


6 


7 


130 


6 


7 


131 


6 


64 


131 


5 


6 


100 
































dants - - - - - 


12 


3§ 


96 


12 


3| 


84 


12 


3| 


84 


12 


34 


84 


10 


3 


70 


Stays 


2 


94 


69 


2 


94 


64 


2 


94 


62 


2 


94 


63 


2 


9 


61 


Breast Backstay s(prs) 


2 


8 


92 


2 


8 


88 


2 


71 


86 


2 


74 


88 


2 


7 


80 


Falls for Breast Back- 
































stays ---.-- 


4 


3f 


52 


4 


3f 


52 


4 


34 


52 


4 


34 


52 


4 


34 


52 


Standing Backstays 
































(pairs) - - - - 
Lanyards for Standing 


2 


10 


96 


2 


10 


96 


2 


10 


92 


2 


10 


94 


2 


94 


86 
































Backstays - - - 


4 


5 


40 


4 


5 


40 


4 


5 


40 


4 


5 


40 


4 


4f 


40 


Cat-Harpen Legs - 


2 


4| 


4 


2 


44 


4 


2 


4| 


4 


2 


44 


4 


2 


44 


4 


Top-Burtons - - - 


2 


34 


192 


2 


3* 


180 


2 


34 


174 


2 


34 


178 


2 


34 


162 


Runners - - - - 


2 


4| 


8 


2 


41 


8 


2 


44 


8 


2 


44 


8 


2 


4 


7 


Top Tackle Pendants 


2 


9 


58 


'2 


9 


55 


2 


9 


47 


2 


9 


50 


2 


84 


48 


Top Tackle Falls - 


2 


5 


170 


2 


5 


160 


2 


5 


145 


2 


4| 


150 


2 


44 


142 


Jackstays (Iron) - - 
































Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


4 


17 


2 


4 


16 


2 


4 


15 


2 


4 


15 


2 


3| 


14 


Stirrups 


G 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


6 


6 


2f 


6 


Flemish Horses - - 


2 


3 


7 


2 


3 


6 


2 


3 


6 


2 


3 


6 


2 


3 


6 


Parrel 


1 


7 


6 


1 


7 


6 


1 


7 


6 


1 


7 


6 


1 


61 


5 


Top-sail Ties (all 
































hide) 


2 


i 7 


42 


2 


7 


40 


2 


7 


40 


2 


7 


40 


2 


6! 


36 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S* Nt-Gm. 351 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 








Brig- 
aiitines 


Schoon- 








2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


Brigs. 


ers. 


Steamers. 






5 




.C 






^ 






5 




a 






* 






£ 




£ 


e 


s 


be 

a 


o: J 


fcfl 
C 
03 


6 


09 


"So 
c 

o 




as 

c 

03 





i i 1 


6 


| 




6 


s 




c 




to 

a 


Js 


■Jj 


J 


fc 


CO 


►4 


fe 


02 


h3 


£ 


w 


.J 


fc 


Cfl 


►-!_ 


£ 


oS 


_►-!_ 


£ 


X 


_J_ 


_£ 


o3 


»J 


C 


2| 


G 


4 


2f 


4 


4 


2i 


4 


4 


. 


4 


4 


24 


4 


4 


24 


4 


4 


2 


4 


6 


2| 


6 


- 


Put. 


- 


- 


Pat. 


- 


- 


Pat. 


- 


- 


P't 


- 


- 


P't 


" 


- 


P't 




- 


P't 




- 


Pat. 




_ 


Pat. 














































2 


54 


58 


2 


u 


48 


2 


44 


46 


2 




44 


2 


4! 


38 


2 


4 


36 


2 


3 


34 


2 


54 


62 


2 


4 


150 


-2 


31 


100 


2 


34 


100 


2 


34 


92 


2 


3 


84 


2 


24 


60 


224 


66 


2 


4 


160 


2 


54 


58 


2 


5 


50 


2 


4f 


44 


2 


4-4 


44 


2 


4 


42 


- 




_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


54 


80 


2 


54 


62 


2 


5 


54 


2 


4f 


46 


2 


44 


46 


2 


4 


46 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


5± 


84 


2 


3i 


64 


2 


3 


58 


2 


3 


52 


2 


3 


52 


2 


24 


50 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


2 


34 


78 


1 


4 


6 


1 


3| 


6 


1 


31 


5 


1 


31 


5 


1 


3 


5 


_ 


_ 




_ 






1 4 


7 


1 3 


14 


1 


24 


14 


1 


2| 


13 


1 


2i 


13 


1 


2 


10 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 3 


18 


2 


4 


94 


2 


3| 


9 


2 


34 


9 


o 


3 4 


9 


2 


3} 


8 


2 


5 


13 


2 


5 


13 


2; 4 


9 


2 


■21 


52 


o 


Ol 


46 


2 


24 


44 


2 


2 


43 


2 


2 


40 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 




_ 


2 1 21 


48 


g 


2* 


58 


2 


2-1 


50 


2 


2 


48 


2 


2 


46 


2 


2 


38 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


24 


42 


4 


24 


95 


4 


2 


88 


4 


2 


80 


4 


2 


79 


2 


2 


40 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


4 


24 


105 


4 


2i 


80 


4 


2 


68 


4 


2 


64 


4 


2 


62 


2 


2 


36 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


4 


24 


88 


1 


2 


20 


1 


2 


17 


1 


2 


16 


1 


2 


15 


1 


2 


18 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


2 


22 


2 


24 


72 


2 


2i 


61) 


2 


24 


56 


2 


n 


56 


2 


2 


60 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


24 


76 


2 


2f 


30 


2 


n 


24 


2 


24 


23 


w 


2 J - 


23 


2 


2 


30 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


21 


26 


2 


si 


32 


2 


2 


26 


2 


2 


27 


v> 


2 


27 


2 


If 


27 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


2 24 


32 


2 


24 


56 


2 


34 


50 


2 


2 


44 


2 


2 


43 


2 


U 


46 


_ 


_ 


_ 


" 


_ 


_ 


2 24 


58 


I 


2 


18 


1 


2 


16 


1 


2 


15 


1 


2 


15 


1 


1! 


13 














1 


2 


20 


5 


54 


88 


4 


44 


62 


4 


44 


60 


3 


44 


47 


3 


4 


42 


2 


3 


24 


2 


3 


24 


5 


54 


106 


SO 


2f 


70 


8 


24 


56 


8 


24 


56 


6 


24 


42 


._ 




_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 






10 


2f 


70 


2 


8| 


53 


2 


74 


39 


2 


7 


37 


2 


7 


36 


1 


64 


20 


1 


3 


14 


1 


3 


10 


2 


84 


72 


2 


7 


72 


1 


7 


31 


1 


64 


30 


1 


u 


29 


1 


54 


28 


- 


- 


- 


~ 


- 


- 


2 


7 


80 


4 


3i 


52 


2 


34 


24 


2 


34 


22 


2 


3 


22 


2 


2| 


16 


- 


- 


•- 




- 


- 


4 


34 


52 


2 


9 


76 


2 


8 


67 


2 


7| 


64 


2 


71 


63 


1 


64 


29 


1 


34 


28 


. 


3 


30 


2 


9 


84 


4 


4i 


40 


4 


4 


36 


4 


3f 


36 


4 


3|j 36 














_ 






4 


44 


40 


2 


4 


34 


2 


34 


3 


2 


34 


3 


2 


34 3 


o 


3 


3 


2 


3 


3 


2 f 24 


2 


2 


4 


3 


2 


34 


146 


2 


3 


128 


2 


3 


120 


2 


2| 112 


2 


2 : V 


104 


- 


_ 


_ 


__ 


_ 


2 


34 


160 


2 


4 


7 


2 


3| 


6 


2 


3! 


6 


2 


3f 


6 


2 


34 


6 


- 


- 


- 


i 


- 


2 


4 


7 


2 


8 


41 


2 


64 


38 


2 


64 


34 


I 


6* 


20 


1 


3 


20 


Lg 
1 


ms 

4 


rope 

34 


T 1 

Lg ms 

14 


rope 


2 


8 


46 


2 


4 


122 
































1 
| 


- 


2 


4 


134 


2 


34 


12 


2 


34 


11 


2 


34 


10 


2 


3 


10 


2 


24 


8 


2 


2f 


7 


22| 


7 


2 


34 


12 


6 


2| 


6 


4 


24 


4 


4 


2 


4 


4 


2 


4 


4 


2 


4 


2 


2 


2 


22 


2 


6 


24 


6 


2 


3 


5 


2 


2| 


4 


2 


24 


4 


2 


24 


4 


2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


22 


4 


2 


3 


5 


1 


64 


u 


1 


6 


4 


1 


6 


4 


1 


6 


4 


1 


5 


4 


1 


4 


3 


1 


4 


3 


1 


64 5 


2 


6i 


32 


2 


6 


25 


2 


5* 


24 


2 


54 


23 


1 


54 


9 


1 


5 


8 


1 


44 


7 


2 


64 


41 



352 



1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing and 





Ships of the Line. 








Frigatest 






2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DECKS ■ ■■ 






1st Class. 




1st Class, i 


id Class. 




Names of Rigging. 












1 1 












£ 




& 




^ 


1 1 5 






5 


c 


6 

.2 


toil 

5 c 


v. 


S | 


6 

N 


i 


6 


® 1 c 


6 


.2 


OS 

c 

0) 


a 


CO 


J £ 


55 


j 2 


CO 


h3 


J2 


CO 


ij 


fc 


'to 


i-3 


MAIN TOP-MAST & 








YARD GEAR. Con. 


























Halliards for Top-sail 
























Tyes < 


2 4 


134 i 


i 4 


130 5 


I 4 


120 


2 


4 


124 


2 


31 


122 


Rolling Tackle - - 


L 3 


20 


L 3 


20 


L 3 


20 


1 


3 


20 


1 


3 


18 


Lifts 


2 7 


38 S 


2 7 


36 i 


2 7 


34 


2 


6ft 


34 


2 


6 


31 


Braces - - - - - 


2 4£ 


120 S 


2 4* 


120 5 


2 4ft 


120 


2 


4i 


122 


2 


4 


100 


Sheets 


2 6| 


88 5 


2 6| 


82 ' 


2 6ft 


79 


2 


6i 


81 


2 


6 


78 


Clew-lines - - - - 


2 31 


106 < 


2 3f 


104 


2 31 


99 


2 


31 


102 


2 


3ft 


90 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 3k 


78 i 


2 3| 


76 


2 3| 


70 


2 


3ft 


70 


2 


3i 


64 


Bunt-lines - - - - 


2 3f 


82 


2 3| 


74 


2 31 


72 


2 


31 


74 


2 


3ft 


68 


Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 


2 4i 


16 


2 4| 


15 


2 41 


15 


2 


41 


15 


2 


4* 


13 


Whips for Reef Pen- 


























dants 


2 3| 


88 


2 3ft 


80 


2 3ft 


78 


2 


3| 


80 


2 


3| 


76 


Clew Jiggers - - - 


2 2ft 


108 


2 2ft 


104 


2 2ft 


100 


2 


8ft 


104 


2 


2| 


96 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 3 


24 


2 3 


24 


2 3 


24 


2 


3 


24 


2 


21 


24 


Bunt-runner - - - 


1 4 


11 


I 4 


10 


1 4 


10 


1 


4 


10 


1 


4 


9 


Jigger for Bunt-runner 


1 3 


38 


1 3 


35 


1 3 


35 


1 


3 


35 


1 


21 


28 


Boom Tricing-lines - 


2 2ft 


32 


2 2ft 


28 


2 2| 


28 


2 


2| 


28 


2 


2 


24 


Studding-s'l Halliards 


2 4 


114 


2 4 


108 


2 4 


104 


2 


4 


108 


2 


31 


98 


Studding-sail Tacks 


2 3ft 


112 


2 3| 


104 


2 3| 


98 


2 


3* 


102 


2 


3i 


94 


Studding-sail Sheets 


2 3i 


60 


2 3i 


50 


2 3i 


50 


2 


3i 


50 


2 


3| 


48 


Studding-sail Down- 


























hauls - - - - - 


2 3 


74 


2 3 


68 


2 2f 


67 


2 


2f 


68 


2 


2ft 


64 


MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 


























M' ST & YARD GEAR 




























2 5 


73 


2 5 


68 


2 5 


67 


2 


5 


67 


2 


u 


60 


Stay 


1 5 


29 


1 5 


27 


1 5 


26 


1 


5 


26 


1 


u 


24 


Breast Backstays (pr.) 


1,5 


58 


1 5 


57 


1 5 


55 


1 


4ft 


56 


1 


4i 50 


Palls for Breast Back-, 


























stays - - - - - 


2\ 2|| 24 1 


2 2| 


20 


2 21 


20 


2 


2ft 


20 


2 


2\ 


20 


Standing Backstays ! 


I ' i 






















(pair) - - - - ! 
Long Yard, or Mast 


1 6 | 61 


1 6 


60 


1 6 


57 


1 


6 


59 


1 


5| 5 


1 






















Rope - - - - - 


1 6ft 


64 


1 6ft 


61 


1 6 


58 


1 


I 5 * 


60 


1 


5| 


53 


Short Mast Rope - - 


1 6 


14 


1 5f 


14 


1 5ft 


13 


1 


5ft 


13 


1 


5i 


12 


Jackstays (Iron) - - | 


























Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 3i 


10 


2 3| 


10 


2 3 


10 


2 


3 


10 


2 


21 


9 


Stirrups 


2 2ft 


2 


2 S8ft 


2 


2 2| 


2 


2 


2| 


2 


2 


2 


2 


Parrel ----- 


1 4 


3 


1 4 


3 


1 4 


3 


1 


4 


3 


1 


31 


3 


Lifts 


2 4 


58 


2 31 


56 


2 3ft 


56 


2 


3* 


56 


2 


3i 


50 


Braces - - - - - 


2 3| 


118 


2 2| 


116 


2 2ft 


104 


2 


2ft 


106 


2 


2\ 


100 


Halliards - - - - 


1 3* 


61 


1 3ft 


60 


1 3 


59 


1 


3 


60 


1 


21 


56 


Sheets 


2 4ft 


70 


2 4ft 


68 


2 4| 


m 


•2 


41 


68 


2 


4 


64 


Clew-lines - - - - 


2 2\ 


98 


2 2ft 


90 


2 2* 


88 


2 


2| 


90 


2 


2 


84 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 21 


88 


2 2J 


85 


2 2 


82 


2 


2 


83 


2 


2 


78 


Bunt-lines - - - - 


2 2\ 


50 


2 21 


50 


2 2ft 


46 


2 


2ft 


46 


2 


2k 


42 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 2\ 


24 


2 21 


24 


2 2± 


24 


2 


2\ 


24 


2 


2 


20 


Bunt Jigger - ' - - 


1 2\ 


24 


1 21 


22 


1 2\ 


22 


1 


2ft 


22 


1 


2k 


21 


Tripping-line - - - , 
Studding-sail Hal- 


1 2f 


31 


1 21 


30 


1 2J 


27 


1 


2k 


28 


1 


2| 


26 


























liards \ 


2 3* 


104 


2 3^ 


98 


2 3ft 


97 


\ § 


3i 


98 


2 


3 


92 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Gm. 353 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 


1 






Brig- 


Schoon- 












! Bliss. 






Steamers* 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


antiiies 


ers. 




J 


o 
in 


to 

B 

s 

►J 


a 


d 
.2 

CO 


"Si 
B 
V 


c 

_5 


N 

TO 


5 

B 


£ 


6 
s 


"Si 

s 

A 


6 


s 

5 


"Si 

B 

a 


i 


s 


i 

B 


c 


s 
X 


B 

_►£_ 


j 


6 

N 

TO 


i 

c 

-A 


2 


34 


100 


2 


3* 


90 


2 


3i 


80 


2 


3 


16 


1 


3 


34 


1 


24 


43 


1 


24 


34 


2 


34 


100 
























12 1 






Ro 


l'g 


rope 


Ro 


l'e 


rope 








1 


2! 


16 


1 


24 


14 


1 


24 


13 


1 


24 


2 


12 


1 


2 


5 


1 


2 


5 


1 


2| 


15 


2 


5* 


30 


2 


5 


28 


2 


5 


27 


2 


5 


26 2 


44 


22 


2 


3f 


18 


2 


3i 


18 


2 


54 


35 


2 


34 


100 


2 


34 


92 


2 


34 


90 


2 


3 


88 2 


24 


64 


2 


2k 


64 


2 


24 


64 


2 


34 


90 


2 


5f 


70 


2 


54 


58 


2 


5 


54 


2 


5 


50 j 2 


4 


52 


2 


34 


46 


2 


34 


46 


2 


5! 


71 


2 


34 


80 


2 


3 


70 


2 


3 


66 


2 


3 


64 1 2 


24 


60 


2 


2 


52 


2 


2 


52 


2 


34 


86 


2 


3i 


58 


2 


3 


50 


2 


3 


44 


2 


2| 


43 2 


24 


42 


2 


2 


42 


2 


2 


42 


: 2 


34 


74 


2 


34 


60 


2 


3 


54 


2 


3 


48 


2 


3 


47! 2 


2f 


44 


1 


2 


22 


1 


2 


22 


2 


34 


66 


2 


44 


12 


2 


4 


10 


-4- 


4 


10 


o 


3f 


9 2 

| 


34 


7 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


2 


44 


12 


2 


3 


68 


2 


24 


60 


2 


24 


56 


2 


2 j. 


55 


2 


21 


48 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


3 


76 


2 


24 


82 


2 


2 


76 


2 


2 


64 


2 


2 


60 


2 


if 


66 


2 


U 


46 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


24 


94 


2 


2f 


24 


o 


24 


22 


2 


24 


21 


2 


Oi 


20 


2 


24 


16 


2 


2| 


16 


2 


2 


16 


2 


2f 


24 


1 


34 


9 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3*" 


7 


1 


3 


6 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


34 


10 


i 


24 


26 


1 


2 


20 


1 


2 


19 


1 


2 


18 


1 


2 


12 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


1 


24 


22 


2 


2 


22 


2 


14 


20 


2 


14 


20 


2 


14 


20 


2 


14 


20 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


2 


30 


2 


34 


88 


2 


3| 


74 


2 


3 


70 


2 


3 


68'! 2 


2f 


64 


- 


- 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


34 


98 


2 


3 


84 


2 


3 


72 


2 


2f 


64 


2 


2f 


62 2 


2 1 


60 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


3 


98 


2 


3i 


46 


2 


3 


44 


2 


3 


40 


2 


3 


39 | 


2 


2l 


32 


- 


- 


- 




- 


- 


1 2 


3i 


44 


2 


2i 


60 


2 


2i 


50 


2 


2 


48 


2 


2 


46 


2 


2 


38 


- 


- 




" 


- 


- 


2 

1 


24 


58 


2 


4 


56 


2 


34 


48 


2 


34 


46 


2 


3 


45 


2 


24 


38 


1 


^4 


15 


1 


24 


15 


2 


31 


68 


1 


44 


22 


1 


31 


19 


1 


34 


18 


1 


34 


17 


1 


3 


14 


1 


24 


16 


1 


24 


12 


1 


44 


31 


1 


4 


46 


1 


34 


40 


I 


34 


3S 


1 


3 


36 


1 


3 


32 


- 


- 


- 






- 


1 


4 


53 


2 


24 


20 


2 


2 


16 


2 


2 


15 


2 


2 


15 2 


14 


14 


- 


- 


- 




- 


- 


2 


24 


20 


1 


5 


48 


1 


41 


42 


1 


4 


39 


1 


4 


38 

1 


1 


34 


34! 


1 


24 


34 


1 


24 


34 


1 


5 


54 


1 


5i 


48 


1 


44 


43 


1 


44 


40 


1 


44 


1 
39 


1 


34 


36 


1 


2| 


36 




_ 


_ 


1 


54 


55 


1 


41 


11 


1 


44 


9 


1 


4 


9 


1 


4 


9 


1 


34 


1 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


| 1 


4f 


12 


2 


24 


9 


2 


24 


8 


2 


24 


7 


2 


24 


7 


2 


2 


6 


2 


2 


5 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


24 


8 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 






— j 








_ 




_ 


2 


2 


2 


1 


31 


3 


1 


3 


2 


1 


3 


2 


1 


3 


2 1 


24 


2 


1 


24 


2 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


34 


3 


2 


3 


46 


2 


21 


40 


2 


24 


38 


2 


24 


36 2 


24 


31 


2 


2 


24 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


3 


45 


2 


24 


88 


2 


2 


76 


2 


2 


66 


2 


2 


65 2 


2 


50 


2 


2 


48 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


24 


94 


1 


24 


48 


1 


24 


40 


1 


24 


38 


1 


2 


36 1 


2 


26 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 


24 


54 


2 


31 


56 


2 


34 


50 


2 


34 


46 


•2 


34 


44| 2 


24 


41 


2 


24 


44 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


3f 


60 


2 


2 


78 


2 


If 


66 


2 


H 


58 


2 


14 


55 


2 


n 


44 


2 


14 


46 




_ 


_ 


2 


2 


80 


2 


2 


68 


2 


2 


64 


2 


If 


56 


o 


1! 


53 


2 


14 


48 


- 


- 


- 


I 


_ 


_ 


2 


2 


86 


2 


2£ 38 


1 


24 


18 


1 


24 


16 


1 


24 


16 1 


2 


30 


- 


- 


- 


_ 




_ 


2 


24 


46 


2 


2 


20 


2 


U 


16 


2 


14 


16 


2 


14 


15 2 


14 


12 


- 






_ 




_ 


1 2 


2 


20 


1 


2 


19 


i 


U 


17 


1 


n 


15 


1 


H 


15 


1 


14 


13 


- 


_ 


_ 




_ 


_ 


1 


2 


23 


1 


24 


24 


1 


2 


22 


1 


if 


20 


1 


If 


19 


1 


14 


19 


1 


1 


18 


~" 


" 


- 


1 


24 


26 


2 


2f 


80 


2 


2! 


70 


2 


24 


64 


2 


24 


60 


2 


24 


58 


- 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


- 


i 
1 2 


2| 


92 



23 



354 1 Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 





Snips of the Line* 






Frigates. 




3 DECKS. - 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


1st Class. 




st Class. | 2d Class. 


Names of Riggmg. 


1 


02 


§ c 


5 .2 

' 02 


3 

Si 

g c 


o 

N 
93 

J 3| 

1 3 

L 4 

2 2 

I 3i 

L 4 

1 34 

2 2| 

1 11 

2 3 
2 2f 

1 2| 

2 3i 
2 24 
2 2i 
1 Si 
1 2 

1 34 

1 3| 

2 3 
1 2i 
1 3| 
1 2f 

1 3 

2 34 

6 74 

2 3^ 
1 9 


■3 j 

28 
64 

40 

10- 

30 

65 

64 

7 

2 
60 
64 
37 
44 
50 
58 
25 
31 - 

59 
42 
58 
37 
42 
34 
34 
60 

136 

84 
17 I 


.2 

g Q3 

2 3i 

2 3 

1 4 

2 2 
1 3i 
1 4 

1 3| 

2 2| 

1 H 

2 24 
2 2i 

1 2| 

2 3 
2 2| 
2 2 
1 2 
1 2 

1 3i 

1 3i 

2 3 
1 2i 
1 3i 
1 24 

1 2| 

2 34 

6 74 

12 3f 
1 9 


X 
"So 
a 
a) 
>J 

30 
64 

40 
10 
30 
67 
66 

7 
2 
60 
64 
38 
44 
50 
64 
27 
32 

63 
46 
60 
38 
43 
34 
34 
60 

136 

84 
18 


6 
jzj 

2 
2 

1 

2 
1 
1 
1 

2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
'2 
1 
1 

1 

1 
2 
1 
1 

1 
1 
2 

6 

12 

1 


£ 

02 

3 

24 

31 

2 

3 

31 

3i 

2| 
li 

21 
24 

2* 

3 

2i 

2 
2 
2 

3* 

3 

Si 

2i 

3 

2^ 

24 

34 

7 

34 
9 


S 

so 
1 


MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 
M. &VDGEAR. Con 

Studding-sail Sheets 
Studding-sail Tacks 

MAIN ROYAL M'ST 
& YARD GEAR. 

Shrouds (pair) - - 
Falls for Shrouds 

Stay 

Backstays (pair) - - 
Yardrope - - - - 
Jackstays (Iron) - - 
Foot Ropes - - - - 
Parrel - - - - - 

Lifts 

Braces - - - - - 
Halliards - - - - 
Sheets - - - - - 
Clew-lines - - - - 
Bow-lines - - - - 
Bunt-lines - - - - 
Tripping-line - - - 
Main-boom Topping- 
lifts 

Falls for Main-boom 
Topping-lifts - - 

MAIN TRY-SAIL 
M'ST & GAFF G'AR. 

Peak Halliards - - 
Throat Halliards - 

Vangs 

Peak Brails (pairs) - 
Throat Brails (pairs) 
Middle Brails (pairs) 
Foot Brails (pairs) - 

Sheets 

Outhauler - - - - 
Boom Tackle for Out- 
hauler - - - - 
Reef Pendants for Out- 
hauler - - - - 
Reef Tackle for Out- 
hauler - - - - 

MIZEN-MAST&CR. 
JACK YARD GEAR. 

Shrouds and Pendants 
(pairs) - - - - 

Lanyards for Shrouds 
and Pendants - - 

Stay 


2 
2 

1 
2 
1 
1 
1 

2 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 

1 

1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
] 
2 

6 
1 


3| 

3 

4 

2 

3i 

4 

3| 

2| 
li 
3 

2f 
24 
3i 
24 
% 
% 
2 

34 

34 

3 

2i 

3| 

2f 

3 

4 

8 

4 

9^ 


33 

70 

42 
10 
34 

69 
71 

8 
2 
62 
72 
43 
48 
53 
72 
28 
34 

63 
48 
68 
42 
46 
38 
36 
62 

144 

96 
19 


1 34 

2 3 

1 4 

2 2 
1 3i 
1 4 

1 3f 

2 2| 

1 1* 

2 3 
2 2f 

1 24 

2 3i 
2 24 
2 2i 
1 2| 
1 2 

1 3^ 

1 3| 

2 3 
1 24 
1 3* 
1 2f 

1 3 

2 4 

6 8 

L2 4 
1 94 


30 S 
64 S 

40 

10 5 
31 
68 
70 

8 

2 
60 
70 
42 
46 
52 
64 
27 
33 

63 

48 

60 

38 | 

43 

34 

34 

60 

143 

96 1 

18 


28 
60 

36 

8 
28 
60 
62 

6 
2 
54 
56 
35 
42 
48 
60 
24 
29 

48 
43 
56 
36 
38 
32 
34 
54 

136 

84 
17 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, II, S. N,-Con. 35: 



irrigates. 


Sloops. 


| Brig- 


Sclioon ! 








, _ Brigs. 






Steamers^ 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


amiiies 


ers. 








J 






£ 






£ 






d 




£ 






£ 






£ 






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■s 


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52 
























- 


1 


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22 


1 


4 


25 


1 


4 


25 






























- 


2 


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50 


2 


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60 


2 


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60 






























- 


2 


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6 


2 


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6 


2 


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6 










- 


- 




- 


- 


- 


- 


— 


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1 


3 


15 


1 


3 


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1 


3 


IS 








5 


6| 


98 


5 


6 


86 


5 


5i 


78 


5 


5| 


76 




















5 


6| 


103 


10 


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_ 






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- 






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n 



356 i Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 



Names of Rigging* 



Snips of the Line. 



3 DECKS. 



MIZEN-MAST&CR 
JACK Y. GEAR. Con 

Futtock Shrouds - - 
Slings (Chain for all 
vessels) - - - - 
Pendant Tackle Falls 
Foot Ropes - - - - 

Stirrups 

Truss Pendants (all 

hide) 

Fall for Truss Pen- 
dants 

Lifts 

Braces 

MIZENTOP-M'ST& 
YARD GEAR. 

Shrouds and Pendants 

(pairs) - - - 

Lanyards for Shrouds 

and Pendants - 

Stay 

Breast Backstays (pr.) 
Falls for Breast Back- 
stays - - - - - 
Standing Backstays 
(pairs) - - - - 
Lanyards for Standing 
Backstays - - - 
Cat-Harpen Legs - 
Top-Burtons - - - 
Runners - - - - 
Top Tackle Pendants 
Jackstays (Iron) - - j 
Foot Ropes - - - - 
Stirrups ----- 
Flemish Horses - - 
Parrel - - - - - 
Top-sail Tye (all ! 

hide) J 

Halliards for Top-sail 

Tye 

Rolling Tackle - - 

Lifts 

Braces 

Sheets 

Clew-lines - - - - 
Bow-lines - - - - 
Bunt-lines - - - - 
Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 
Whips for Reef Pen- 
dants - - - - - 
Clew Jiggers - - - 
Lift Jiggers - - - 



H 



3i 
2 3i 
3 



24 



110 

16 

4 



74 

56 
15 

38 

20 



2 DECKS. 



1st Class. 



h 39 



20 
§i 
150 
7 

26 

11 
4 
5 
4 

15 

56 
15 
31 

96 
52 

82 
58 
64 
12 

68 
88 
20 



H 



3| 

3i 

3 

3| 

6i 

3i 

2! 
2i 
A* 



20 



106 

16 

4 



69 

56 
14 

38 

20 

38 

20 
3| 
150 

7 
26 



2d Class. 



10 
4 
5 
4 

14 

55 
15 

30 
96 
50 
78 
52 
58 
12 

64 

82 
20 



51 



7§ 



20 



69 

56 
13 
35 

20 

36 



20 
3£ 
132 
7 
6\ 23 



10 
4 
5 
4 

13 

50 
15 

29 
84 
46 
76 
50 
55 
12 

64 

78 
20 



Razees. 



5i 



20 



69 

56 
13 
36 

20 

38 

20 

3, 

140 

7 
25 

10 
4 
5 
4 

13 

52 
15 

29 
86 
48 
78 
52 
57 
12 

64 

80 
20 



Frigates* 



1st Class. 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Om. 357 



Frigates. 



2d Class. 



Sloops. 



1st Class. 2d Class 



3d Class. 



Brigs. 



Brig- 

a ntines 



Schoon- 



Steamers. 



2t 
3i 
2* 

4 

2' 2i 
2 2* 
21 2i 
2 3 



2i 52 
2 1 2 66 



54 

56 
12 
28 

20 

30 

20 

3 

118 

7 

19 

8 
4 
3 
3 

13 

40 
13 
22 
70 
40 
62 
44 
46 
9 



2*1 18 



21 
2* 

3 
b\ 

2* 

2 
2 
4 

5i 

2S 

2 
3i 
2 
31 
2f 
2 
2 2j 
2 2| 

2 2 

2 2 
21 2 



15 2 
54 2 



Pat. 



4 15 

n 52 



2 2 

2,2 
2 If 



48 2 
52 2 
14 



p-t 



4 



" 2 



4| 1G 
2! 64 



36 

56 
13 

28 

24 
36 

20 

3 

120 

5 

20 

9 
4 
3 

3i 

16 



2J 45 
2| 15 



358 1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing and 





Snips of tiie Liine. 








Frigates. 








2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DECKS. 






1st Class. 




1st Class. 


2d Class. 


Names of Rigging. 
































1 


3 

OB 


c 
S 
►5 


6 


02 


45 

S 
CI 


6 


'65 


S 


6 
j5 


4> 
OB 


id 
"St 

s 

3 


6 


N 
OB 


S3 
ta 

B 


MIZENTOP-M'ST& 




























YARD GEAR. Con. 
































Bunt-runner - - - 


1 


31 


10 


1 


3i 


9 


1 


3i 


9 


1 


3i 


9 


1 


3 


8 


Jigger-fall for Bunt- 
































runner - - - - 


1 


21 


17 


1 


21 


16 


1 


21 


16 


1 


21 


16 


1 


21 


14 


MIZ. TOP-GALL'NT 
































M' ST & YARD GEAR 
































Shrouds (pairs) - - 


2 


31 


58 


2 


3* 


55 


2 


31 


53 


2 


3i 


53 


2 


3 


46 


Stay 


1 


3| 


17 


1 


31 


15 


1 


31 


15 


1 


31 


15 


1 


31 


14 


Breast Backstays (pr.) 


1 


3| 


47 


1 


31 


46 


1 


3i 


43 


1 


3i 


44 


1 


31 


40 


Falls for Breast Back- 
































stays ----- 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


Standing Backstays 
































(pair) - - - - 
Long Yard, or Mast 


1 


41 


49 


1 


41 


48 


1 


41 


45 


1 


41 


46 


1 


4 


43 
































Rope 


1 


4 


53 


1 


4 


52 


1 


4 


47 


1 


4 


48 


1 


3f 


43 


Short Mast Rope - - 


1 


3| 


12 


1 


3f 


11 


1 


3f 


10 


1 


3f 


10 


1 


31 


9 


Jackstays (Iron) - - 
































Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


2ft 


7 


2 


2| 


7 


2 


21 


7 


2 


21 


7 


2 


21 


6 


Stirrups - - - - - 


2 


n 


2 


2 


2| 


2 


2 


2i 


2 


2 


2i 


2 


2 


2 


2 


Parrel - - - - - 


1 


3 


2 


1 


3 


2 


1 


3 


2 


1 


3 


2 


1 


21 


2 


Lifts 


2 


3 


48 


2 


3 


44 


2 


3 


44 


2 


3 


44 


2 


2f 


38 


Braces - - - - - 


2 


Si 


78 


2 


a* 


76 


2 


21 


72 


2 


21 


74 


2 


21 


68 


Halliards - - - - 


1 


2! 


48 


1 


2f 


45 


1 


2f 


42 


1 


2f 


43 


1 


21 


42 


Sheets 


2 


3 


56 


2 


3 


54 


2 


3 


49 


2 


3 


50 


2 


2f 


49 


Clew-lines - - - - 


2 


2| 


66 


2 


2| 


60 


2 


21 


56 


2 


21 


58 


2 


2 


50 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 


2 


78 


2 


2 


76 


2 


2 


72 


2 


2 


74 


2 


If 


64 


Bunt-lines - - - - 


1 


2 


22 


1 


2 


21 


1 


2 


19 


1 


2 


19 


1 


2 


18 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


2 


If 


20 


2 


If 


20 


2 


If 


20 


2 


■•■4 


20 


2 


11 


20 


Bunt Jiggers - - - 


1 


U 


20 


1 


If 


19 


1 


If 


18 


1 


If 


18 


1 


11 


16 


Tripping-line - - - 


1 


U 


25 


1 


If 


24 


1 


If 


21 


1 


If 


22 


1 


H 


22 


MIZ. ROYAL MAST 
































& YARD GEAR. 
































Shrouds (pair) - - 


1 


3 


35 


1 


3 


34 


1 


3 


32 


1 


3 


32 


1 


21 


27 


Falls for Shrouds 


2 


1! 


12 


2 


If 


12 


2 


If 


12 


2 


If 


12 


2 


H 


8 


Stay ------ 


1 


2! 


22 


1 


2| 


21 


1 


2f 


20 


1 


2f 


20 


1 


21 


19 


Backstays (pair) - - 


1 


3 


56 


1 


3 


54 


1 


3 


50 


1 


3 


52 


1 


21 


48 


Yardrope - - - - 


1 


3 


57 


1 


3 


56 


1 


3 


52 


1 


3 


54 


1 


2f 


50 


Jackstays (Iron) - - 
































Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


5 


Parrel - - - - - 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


Lifts 


2 


2f 


53 


2 


2f 


52 


2 


2f 


46 


2 


2f 


48 


2 


21 


42 


Braces ----- 


2 


If 


60 


2 


If 


50 


2 


If 


46 


2 


If 


46 


2 


11 


46 


Halliards - - - - 


1 


2 


33 


1 


2 


30 


1 


2 


29 


1 


2 


30 


1 


2 


28 


Sheets - - - - - 


2 


2* 


38 


2 


2* 


36 


2 


2i 


36 


2 


21 


36 


2 


2 


30 


Clew-lines - - - - 


2 


If 


42 


2 


If 


40 


2 


If 


40 


2 


If 


40 


2 


H 


38 


Bow-lines - - - - 


2 


H 


56 


2 


i* 


48 


2 


n 


44 


2 


li 44 


2 


1 


46 


Bunt-lines - - - - 


1 


11 


23 


1 


n 


22 


1 


H 


22 


1 


11 


22 


1 


U 


18 


Tripping-line - - - 


1 


ii 


29 


1 


n 


29 


1 


li 


26 


1 


1* 


27 


1 


U 


24 


SPANKER BOOM 
































AND GAFF GEAR. 
































Topping-lifts - - - 


2 


: u 


41 


2 


51 


40 


2 


51 


40 


2 


1 51 


40 


2 


51 


38 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. Si a*- Con. 359 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 








Brig- 


Schoon- 
















Brigs. 






Steamers* 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




amines 


ers. 






© 


B 
<D 


c 




B 


6 


6 

N 


B 


c 


si 


S 




N 


W 

B 
09 


6 


• 


B 


6 


6 







s 


i 

a 


J 


cc 


►J 


'A 


CO 


1-1 


* 


CC 


h4 


fc 


Cfl 


-1 


js 


W 


t-1 


_fc 


82 


>-l 


z. 


CC 


_►£_ 


fe 


CO 


■J 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3 


6 


1 


3 


6 


1 


3 


6 




















1 


3 


7 


1 


2i 


14 


1 


2| 


12 


1 


2i 


12 


1 


2 


12 




















! 1 


2i 


14 


2 


3 


41 


2 


2! 


39 


2 


2* 


34 


2 


2* 


33 




















2 


3 


46 


1 


3 


13 


1 


21 


11 


1 


2* 


10 


1 


2* 


lO! 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


1 


3 


14 


1 


3 


36 


I 


2| 


32 


1 


2* 


29 


1 


2i 


27 


















"" 


1 


3 


40 


2 


2 


18 


2 


1* 


14 


2 


H 


14 


2 


H 


14 


- 
















_ 


2 


2 


18 


1 


3f 


38 


1 


3£ 


34 


1 


3i 


31 


1 


3i 


29 


- 


















1 


3f 


44 


1 


3^ 


38 


1 


3i 


33 


1 


3 


32 


1 


3 


30 


_ 


















1 


3* 


45 


1 


3i 


8 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3 


7 


1 


3 


7 | 




















1 


3i 


b 


2 


2 


6 


2 


2' 


5 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


li 




















2 


2 


1 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 




















2 


2 


2 


1 


2* 


2 


1 


2 


2 


1 


2 


2 


1 


2 


2 




















1 


2* 


2 


2 


2* 


36 


2 


2i 


32 


^ 


2 


27 


2 


2 


26 


_ 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 




- 


_ 


2 


2* 


40 


2 


2 


60 


2 


If 


50 


2 


1^ 


46 


2 


If 


45! 














- 






2 


2 


64 


1 


2| 


34 


1 


2 


29 


1 


2 


28 


1 


2 


26! 














_ 






1 


2i 


40 


2 


2f 


42 


2 


2i 38 


2 


2i 


36 


2 


2i 


35 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


2f 


45 


2 


2 


46 


2 


If! 44 


2 


If 


42 


2 


If 


40 




















2 


2 


45 


2 


H 


56 


2 


1* 


50 


2 


1 


48 


2 


1 


48 


_ 


- 


- 


_ 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


2 


H 


62 


1 


If 


16 


1 


li 


14 


1 


li 


12 


1 


li 


12 




















1 


If 


18 


2 


H 


18 


2 


U 


16 


2 


li 


14 


2 


H 


14 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 2 


H 


18 


1 


H 


14 


1 


1 


12 


1 


1 


10 


1 


1 


10 




















1 


li 


15 


1 


1* 


20 


1 


1 


18 


1 


1 


16 


1 


1 


15 




















1 


li 


20 


1 


2f 


25 


1 


2i 


24 


1 


2 


19 


1 


2 


19 


























2 


1* 


8 


2 


1 


8 


2 


1 


8 


2 


1 


8 


























1 


2* 


17 


1 


2 


14 


1 


If 


13 


1 


If 


12 


























1 


2* 


42 


1 


2* 


38 


1 


2 


34 


1 


2 


31 


























1 


2* 


43 


1 


2i 


38 


1 


2i 


34 


1 


2i 


32 


























2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


2 


2 


4 


























1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


1 


1 


2 


























2 


2* 


38 


2 


2 


36 


2 


2 


32 


2 


2 


30 


























2 


H 


42 


2 


U 


32 


2 


H 


30 


2 


If 


28 


























I 


2 


25 












































2 


U 


28 


2 


If 


24 


2 


If 


22 


2 


If 


20 


























2 


U 


34 


2 


1 


2a 


2 


1 


26 


2 


1 


24 
28 




















| 






2 


1 


42 


2 


1 


30 


2 


1 


28 


2 


1 


























11 14 


16 


















1 


























1 


li 


22 


1 


1 


20 


1 


1 


18 


1 


1 


16 


























2 


5 


32 


2 


4f 


28 


2 


41 


27 


2 


41 


25 














_ 






'2 


5 


38 



360 1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing* and 





Snips of the Line* 








Frigates. 








2 DECKS. 


Razees. 






3 DECKS. 






1st Class. 




1st Class. 


2d Class, j 




Names of Rigging. 


















. 










6 


as 

3a 


B 


6 


6 
02 


5 

"Si 
§ 
*1 


& 


4> 

N 

o3 


5 

bo 

s 

CO 


6 


6 

o3 


f 

c 

03 


a 


N 

33 


bl 

c 

3 


SPANKER BOOM & 








j 




GAFF GEAR. Con. 








| 






















Falls for Topping-lifts 


2 


3 


36 


2 3 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


3 


36 


2 


2| 


34 


Foot Ropes - - - - 


2 


3 


11 


2 


3 


11 


2 


3 


10 


2 


3 


10 


2 


2f 


10 


Sheets - - - - - 


2 


3i 


74 


2 


3| 


70 


2 


3i 


70 


2 


3i 


70 


2 


3 


58 


Outhauler - - - - 


1 


4 


33 


1 


4 


32 


1 


4 


31 


1 


4 


31 


1 


3f 


30 


Peak Halliards - - 


1 


3f 


67 


1 


31 


66 


1 


3| 


64 


1 


3f 


66 


1 


3| 


60 


Throat Halliards 


1 


3* 


40 


1 


3| 


39 


1 


3i 


38 


1 


3* 


39 


1 


3 


37 


Vangs - - - - - 


2 


3 


60 


2 


3 


56 


2 


3 


55 


2 


3 


56 


2 


21 


48 


Peak Brails - - - 


2 


2 


82 


2 


2 


80 


2 


2 


78 


2 


2 


79 


2 


2 


76 


Throat Brails - - - 


1 


3i 


45 


1 


3i 


44 


1 


3} 


42 


1 


3i 


43 


1 


3i 


38 


Middle Brails - - - 


1 


2| 


41 


1 


2* 


40 


1 


2* 


40 


1 


2§ 


40 


1 


2| 


34 


Foot Brails - - - 


1 


3 


39 


1 


3 


38 


1 


3 


38 


1 


3 


38 


1 


2| 


36 


GAFF TOP-SAIL 






























GEAR. 






























Halliards - - - - 






























- 


Outhauler -■-•--- 






























- 


Sheets 




























- 


- 


Downhaul - - - - 






























- 


MISCELLANEOUS 
































GEAR. 
































Braces, Preventer 
































(Lower Yards) - - 


2 


3f 


116 


2 


3f 


116 


2 


3| 


116 


2 


3* 


116 


2 


3i 


112 


Braces, Preventer 
































(Top-sail Yards) - 


2 


3i 


112 


2 


3i 


112 


2 


3i 


112 


2 


3 


112 


2 


3 


108 


Cleets, Iron, for Tops 


36 


- 


- 


36 




- 


36 


- 


- 


36 


- 


- 


36 


- 


- 


Chain Slings for Top- 
































sail Yards - - - 


3 


- 


- 


3 




- 


3 


- 


- 


3 


- 


_ 


3 


_ 


- 


Chain Slings for Gaff 


6 


- 


_ 


6 




_ 


6 


- 


_ 


6 


_ 


_ 


6 


~ 


- 


Falls, Gat. ----- - 


2 


6 


130 


2 


6 


130 


2 


6 


125 


2 


51 


125 


2 


51 


120 


Falls, Fish — the sizes 
































and lengths given for 
































Sloops, Brigs & Sch. 
































are for Fish Pend'nts 


2 


4f 


140 


S 


4f 


140 


2 


41 


135 


2 


4* 


135 


2 


41 


120 


Falls, Stern Boat - - 


4 


3i 


120 


4 


3f 


120 


4 


3i 


120 


4 


3 


116 


4 


3 


112 


Falls, CLuarter Boats 


4 


3f 


160 


4 


3! 


160 


4 


3| 


160 


4 


31 


160 


4 


3i 


150 


Falls, Waist Boats - 


4 


3f 


135 


4 


3£ 


135 


4 


31 


135 


4 


3* 


132 


4 


3| 


132 


Falls, Deck Tackle - 


1 


4* 


65 


1 


4i 


65 


1 


4i 


65 


1 


4 


62 


1 


4 


62 


Falls, Stock and Bill 
































Tackles - - - - 


2 


3i 


60 


S 


3| 


60 


2 


3* 


60 


2 


Og 


58 


2 


3i 


58 


Falls, Luff Tackles - 


30 


4 


300 


31 


4 


300 


30 


4 


300 


30 


3f 


300 


30 


3| 


300 


Falls, Stay Luff Tack. 


! 4 


4 


100 


4 


4 


100 


4 


4 


100 


4 


3f 


100 


4 


3f 


100 


Falls, Jiggers - - - 


i 8 


n 


160 


g 


2f 


160 


8 


2| 


160 


S 


2f 


160 


8 


2f 


160 


Fenders, Boat (Stuffed 
































Leather) — one set 
































for each boat - - 
































Futtock Staves (Iron) 
Guys, Fish Davit 


IS 




- 


18 


- 


- 


18 


- 


- 


IS 




- 


IS 


_ 


- 


4 


8 


























20 


Guys, Gluarter Davit 




- 


chain 


























Guys, "Waist Davit 




- 




























Gripes, Launch - - 


1 


6 


26 


i 


6 


26 


1 


5f 


26 


1 


52 


25 


1 


5| 


24 


Girt-lines v , Fore Mast- 
































head - - - - - 


2 


3i 


96 


i 


J 3| 


96 


2 


3i 


96 


2 


3| 


96 


2 


3 


90 



Ron'g digging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Om. 361 



Frigates! 



2d Class. 



34 

H 

31 

3i 

3 

9A 

2 

3 

2 

2i 



108 
108 



100 



120 

52 

140 

60 



3*| 56 



280 
100 
160 



Sloops. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 



18 



8 

48 

135 

58 

52 
240 
100 
160 



100 
90 

90 



46 
130 

5G 

48 
240 
100 
160 



18 



8 

46 

130 

56 

48 
240 
100 
160 



Brigs. 



95 



60 



7 

44 

120 

52 

44 

120 
100 
120 



Brig- 

a ut i nes 



I 

40 
116 

52 

44 

120 

50 

120 



Schoon- 
ers. 



3i 40 



Steamers. 



2§ 
21 

2f 

3| 

3} 

3 

Sft 

2 

3 

2 

2i 



362 



1 Table showing' the Length and Size of Standing* and 



Names of Rigging 



Ships of t lie Line. 



3 DECKS. 



MISCELLANEOUS 

GEAR. Con. 

Girt-lines,Main Mast- 
head - - - - - 
Girt-lines, Miz. Mast- 
head 

Girt-lines, Hammock 
Hooks, Can (Iron) - 
Hawse Pend. & Hook 
Hawse R'pe& Shackle 
Halliards, Signal (set* 
Hooks, Fish (fr anch. 
Jacks, Iron (sets) - - 
Lines,Clothes(Manil.) 
Lines, Tricing, Ham 
Nippers (dozens of) - 
Rungs for Jacob Lad 
ders (set) - - - - 
Ropes, Buoy - - - 
Ropes, Ridge, Awn- 
ings (set of) - - 
Ropes, Old (for lash- 
ings) — as much as 
may be required - 
Ropes, Back (for Cat- 
Blocks) - - - - 
Rudder Pendants and 
Chains — as may be 
required) - - - 
Stoppers, Cat-head - 
Stoppers, Ring - - 
Stoppers, Deck (chain 

claw) - - - 
Stoppers, Boats 
Stoppers, Fighting,doz, 
Stoppers, Bit - - - j 
Strap Selvagees (doz.) 
Swabs (dozens) - - 
Seines - - - - - 
Shank Painters (a part 

(Chain) - - 
Spare, Gluarter Davit 
Spare, Waist Davit 
Travelers, iron, for 
Top-sail Tyes - - 
Topping-lifts fr Gtuar 
ter Davits - - - 
Tackle, Fore-yard - 
Tackle, Pendants 
Tackle, Fore-stay* - 
Tackle, Main-yard - 
Tackle, Pendants - 
Tackle, Main-stay* - 
Triatic Stay - - - 
Gluarter and Stay - 
* Or Triatic Stay-tackle. 



52 



2 DECKS. 



1st Class. | 2d Class. 



108 



640 
2 

18 
20 



1560 
144 



40 



2 3} 



30 



4 feet 

32 

100 

9 



2 3 



108 

88 

640 

2 

16 

18 



1560 
144 



50 



80 

5 

chain 
chain 



chain 

90 

8 

60 

108 

8 

60 

20 

80 



40 



30 



18 

4 ft 
32 

100 
9 



108 



512 

2 

16 

18 



2J 1500 
3 144 



40 



80 1 
5 2 



90 

8 

60 

108 

8 

60 

20 

80 



Razees. 



1| 7 

110 

ll - 

2 - 

1 - 

48 2| 1440 

6 3 144 

3 - 



108 

88 

512 

2 

15 

17 



Frigates. 



1st Class* 



Sh 



30 



4 ft! 
32 

100 
9 



80 



90 

8 

60 

108 

8 
60 

20 

so] 



40 



25 



6 
17 

4 ft. 

32 

100 

9 



2 
6 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 - 



70 



8| 



90 



2* 



104 

86 

360 

2 

14 

16 



1230 
132 



40 



25 



9 6 
5i 16 



60 
108 
8 
60 
20 
80 1 



4 ft. 

32 

100 

9 



60 



8 

55 

102 

8 
55 
19 
78 



Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, D. S. ».-Cb?i. 363 



Frigates. 


Sloops. 








Brig- 


Schoon- 


















Briars. 






Steamers. 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. . 


ta ClassJI 
II 


antin.es 


ers. 














A 


1 




je 


1 1 


J5 






£ 






■d 






c 






JS 


1 


6 

N 
X 




5 

z 


B 

s 


be 
C 


6 
Z 


6 


C 


1 



z 


6, 

s 

in 


tx 

S 

1-1 


c 
_Z 


6 

s 
X 




d 

z 


6 

N 

55 


M 

a 

4) 
►J 


A 


03 
N 

s 


B 
® 


j 


i 

X 


c 


2 


3 


100 


2 


21 


96 


2 


2f 


92 


2 


21 


92 


2 


h 


92 


2 


2i 


92 


2 


21 


92 


2 


3 


10C 


2 


2f 


84 


2 


2* 


80 


2 


2* 


78 


2 


2S 


78 - 












— 




_ 


2 


2f 


84 


5 


3 


325 


4 


2f 


200 


4 


2| 


180 


4 


j| 


180, 


4 


2k 


170 


3 


21 


120 


3 


2* 


120 


5 


3 


325 


2 


3 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


^ 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


1 


1 


1 


2 


2 


£ 


1 


(H 


13 


1 


6 


10 


1 


5* 


9 


1 


3 


8 


















- 


1 


6* 


13 


1 


9 


15 


1 


8 


11 


1 


8 


10 


1 


7 


9 


















- 


1 


9 


15 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






] 






40 


2* 


1100 


34 


2 


900 30 


2 


750 


30 


2 


750 2C 


2 


500 


16 


2 


400 12 


2 


300 


40 


2i 


hoc 


6 


3 


125 


6 


2f 


120 6 


21 


120 


6 


31 


120 


4 


2* 


85 


4 


2£ 


85' 4 


2* 


85 


6 


3 


125 


3 






2 




- 2 






2 
















- 








3 






1 






1 




_ 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 


_ 




2 


H 


40 


2 


5 


40 


2 


5 


40 


2 


41 


40 


2 


4 


40 


2 


4 


40 


2 


4 


40 


2 


5| 


4C 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






1 




! 


1 






2 


2* 


25 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


20 


2 


2 


15 


2 


2 


15 


- 


- 


_ 


2 


21 


25 


2 


6A 


6 


2 


6i 


5 


2 


6 


5 


2 


6 


5 


2 


5A 


3 


2 


5| 


3 


I 2 


5 


3 


2 


6* 


( 


4 


5 


14 


4 


41 


12 


4 


4* 


10 


2 


4| 


10 


2 


4 


10 


2 


3| 


8 2 

|! 


3| 


8 


4 


5 


14 


6 




4 ft. 


4 


_ 


4 ft 


4 


_ 


4 ft 


4 




4 ft 1 4 


_ 


4 ft 


4 


_ 


4 ft 4 


_ 


4ft 


6 


_ 


4 ft 


4 


3| 


28 


4 


3 


26 


4 


3 


24 


4 


3 


24 


4 


2f 


22 


4 


2f 


20 4 


2f 


20 


4 


3* 


2* 


3 


4* 


100 


2* 


4 


80 


2i 


4 


80 


2* 


4 


80 


2 


3f 


60 


2 


3f 


60 2 


31 


60 


3 


U 


10( 


4 


8* 


8 


3 


~h 


8 


3 


7 


7 


3 


7 


7 


3 


H 


7 


3 


6 


7 3 


6 


7 


4 


Si 


i 


3 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






2 






3 






3 




- 








2 












2 












2 












1 


- 


50 


1 


- 


40 


1 


- 


40 


1 


- 


40 


1 


- 


35 


1 


- 


35 


1 


- 


35 


1 


- 


5( 


2 


6 


4 


2 


5! 


3 


2 


5i 


3 


2 


H 


3 


2 


5 


2 


2 


5 


2 


2 


41 


2 


2 


6 


i 


6 






6 






6 






6 






2 






2 






~ 






4 






2 


3| 


84 








2 












1 
























2 


6* 


7* 


2 


6 


6 


2 


5f 


6 


2 


5 


6 


1 


5 


3 


1 


5 


3 




_ 


- 


2 


6i 


7 


1 


3| 


54 


1 


3* 


50 


1 


3* 


48 


1 


3h 


46 


1 


3 


40 


1 


3 


40 




_ 


_ 


1 


3| 


5 


2 


3^ 


100 


2 


3* 


86 


2 


3i 


84 


2 


3* 


84 


1 


3 


40 


- 


- 


- || - 


- 


- 


2 


3f 


10 


2 


6^ 


7* 




















1 
















2 


6* 


't 


1 


3! 


54 


1 


3i 


50 


1 


3* 


48 


1 


3^ 


46 


1 


3 


40 


1 


3 


40 - 


_ 


- 


1 


3f 


5 


1 


7 


18 


i 


6A 


18| 1 


6* 


18 


1 


6* 


18 


1 


6 


17 


1 


5 


15 - 


- 


_ 


1 


/ 


1 


1 


3* 


| 70 


1 


3^ 


65 


1 1 


3 


62 


1 


3 


62 


1 


3 


60 




- 


- 


1!- 


- 


- 


1 


3| 


7 



364 524.— A Table showing the Size and Description of 



Names of 
Blocks. 



FLYING JIB-BOOM 

Downhaul 
Royal Bow-lines - 
Halliards F. T. Gal 
lant-mast-head - 

JIB-BOOM. 

Downhaul 
Brails on Stay 
Brails leading or 

Boom-end - 
Martingale back-ropes 
Martingale back-ropes 
Top-gallant Bow-lines 
Guy Tackles - 
Guy-Tackles - 
Jib-stay Tackle 
Jib-stay Tackle 
Sheets in Clew of Sail 
Hall'rds in head of Sail 
Halliards on top-mast 

Trestle-trees 

SPRIT-SAIL YARD. 

Lifts leading to Bow- 
sprit Cap - 
Brace on Yard-arm 
Brace on Fore-stay 
Brace on Trestle-trees 

BOWSPRIT. 

Fore-top Bow-lines 

Fore Bow-lines 

Fore Top-mast Stay- 
sail Downhaul - 

Fore top-mast Hall'rds 
in head of Sail 

F.T. Mast Hall'rds on 
top-mast trestle trees 

F. T. Mast Stay-sail 
sheets in clew of sail 

F. Storm stay-sail stay 
on Bowsprit 

F. Storm Stay-sail 
Downhaul - 

F. storm stay-sail hal- 
liards in head of sail 

F.S. stay-sail halliards 
on Trestle-trees - 

Bumkin Blocks, (fore 
tacks) 

FOREM'ST&YARD. 

Runner - 



Descrip- 
tion of 
Block. 



S. 

s. 
s. 

D. 

s. 
s. 

D. 

s. 

D. 

S. 

s. 
s. 

S. Iron b'd. 



Skips of the Line. 



3 DECKS 



S. Iron b'd 

S. 
S. Clump. 



S. 
S.Should'r. 



1.0 

.8 

71 1.3 
1.3 



112 



212 
212 



1.5 
1.5 

1.3 

1.6 
1.6 
1.5 

2.8 
1.2 
1.4 
1.4 
2.3 



2 DECKS. 



IstClass. 2d Class 



7i 1.0 

: 
7 1.3 



1.3 



212 
212 



1.5 
1.5 

1.3 

1.6 

1.6 

1.5 

2.8 

1.2 

1.4 

1.4 

2.3 



8 1.3 
6, .9 



Razees. 



1.3 

1.6 
1.6 
1.5 
2.8 
1.2 
1.4 
1.4 
2.3 



Frig- 
ates. 



IstClass. 



10 1.2 



1 17 3.0 1117 3.0 1 17 3.0 1 16 2.81 1 16 2.8 



1.5 
1.5 

1.2 

1.4 

1.4 

1.5 

2.4 

1.2 

1.4 

1.4 

2.2: 



1.0 

.8 

1.3 



1.3 
.9 

.9 
1.5 
1.5 

.8 
1.2 
1.2 
1.1 
1.1 
1.4 
1.2 

1.4 



1.3 

1.2 
1.2 
1.2 



1.5 
1.5 

1.2 

1.4 

1.4 

1.5 

2.4 

1.2 

1.3 

1.3 

2.2 



the Different Blocks of all classes of Vessels, I. S. S. 365 



Frig- 
ates. 


Sloops of War. 


Brigs. 


Bi 
t 


igan- 


Sclioon 


Steam- 


2d Class. 


J 1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 


mes. 


ers. 


ers. 


: 


j 






j 






I 






a 






% 

o 






i 


1 


5s 






i 


„• 


-2 




jj 


3 




c 


C3 




X 


~ 




c 


Is 




e 


"3 




ai ~5 




1 


"a 


6 

g 


K 

7 


02 

1.0 


A. 

1 


G 


OB 

.9 


1 


G 


g 

.9 


6 
1 


N 

08 

6 


.9 


6 
1 


X 

G 


.9 


i 


X 

5 


02 

.8 


A. 


02 cb 


1 


jX 


> 

03 


1 


i 


5 .8 


1 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


G 


.8 


2 


5 


.7 


2 


5 


. / 












2 


6 


.8 


1 


7 


1.3 


1 


7 


1.3 


1 


G 


1.1 


1 


G 


1.1 


1 


G 


1.1 


i 


6 


1.1 


i 


61.1 


1 


7 

1 
1 


1.3 


1 


8 


1.3 


1 


8 


1.3 


1 


7 


1.2 


! 


7 


1.2 


1 


G 


1.0 


i 


6 


1.0 


i 


61.0 


1 


! 
8 


1.3 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 .8 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 .8 


2' 6 


.9 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


71.2 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


9 








































9 




2 


6 


.8 


1 2 


G 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


G 


.8 


2 


5 


.7 


2 


5 


.7 


2 


5 .7 


2 


G 


.8 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


81.0 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


81.0 


4 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.0 


1 


9 


1.0 


1 


81.0 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.0 


1 


9 


1.0 


1 


81.0 


1 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


b 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


81.0 


2 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


7 .9 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


12 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.0 


1 


10 


1.0 


1 


10 


1.0 


1 


10 


1.0 


1 1 


01.0 


1 


12 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.1 


















2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.0 


_ 


_ 


- 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


_ - 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.0 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


_ 


_ - 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.0 


- 


- 


— 


— 


~ 


- 


- 


- — 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


31.2 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


- 


- - 


2 


11 


1.5 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


- 


- - 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


11 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


- 


- - 


1 


11 


1.4 


1 


11 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


- ■ 


- - 


1 


11 


.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


- ■ 


— 


2 


11 


1.4 


1 


12 


2.4 


1 


10 


2.0 


1 


10 


2.0 


1 


9 


1.8 


1 


8 


1.6 


1 


8 


1.6 


- ■ 


- - 


1 


12 


2.4 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


-j - 


- - 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


11 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


- - 


- - 


1 


11 


1.3 


t 


11 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


- ■ 


- - 


1 


11 


1.3 


2 


14 


2.2 


2 


12 


2.0 


2 


12 


2.0 


2 


11 


1.8 


2 


9 


1.6 


2 


9 


1,1 


- - 


- - 


2 


14: 


3.2 


i ! 


15 


2.61 










- 


. 


















J 




- —1 


1 


15l: 


2.6 



366 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dii- 





Descrip- 


Ships of the Line. 








Frig- 




3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass 


2d Class. 


lstCl; 




tion of 












Blocks. 






i 






6» 






£ 






sj 


p 




Block. 






_© 






O 






o 

=3 






o 


.IsS 








S3 


"as 




6 


13 




a> 






<D 


el 


a>. ~ 






o 


N 


£ 


o 


N 


£ 


6 


s 


■S 


6 


N 


£ < 


> .Si is 






_£ 


oS 


0Q 


_fc 


QQ 


Ul 


_£ 


a 


m 


_g 


_S 


OB J 


2 jo j»_ 


FOREM'ST&YARD. 








Continued. 






























Tackle for Runner 


D. 


1 


17 


1.6 


1 


17 


1.6 


1 


n 


1.6 


1 


n 


1.6 


117 1.6 


Tackle for Runner 


S. 


1 


17 


1.6 


1 


17 


1.6 




n 


1.6 


1 


n 


1.6 


L 17 1.6 


Pendant Tackles - 


D. 


2 


17 


1.6 


2 


17 


1.6 


2 


i? 


1.6 


2 


n 


1.6 S 


216 1.5 


Pendant Tackles - 


D. 


2 


17 


1.6 


2 


17 


1.6 


2 


17 


1.6 


2 


17 


1.6 1 


216 1.5 


Truss Tackles - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 5 


210 1.3 


Truss Tackles - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 S 


210 1.3 


Jeers - - - - - 


T. 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 J 


2 20 2.1 


Jeers - - - - - 


D. 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 


2 


22 


2.4 5 


220 2.1 


Jeer Leaders - - 


S. 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.1 5 


220 2.1 


Gtuarter Blocks - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


1G 


2.3 


2 


16 


2.3 


2 


16 


2.3 


'2 


10 


2.3 5 


214 2.1 


Clew Garnet - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 5 


213 1.6 


Clews of Sail - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


Lfc 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 5 




Bunt-lines under Fore 






























Top 


D. 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 S 


2 9 1.3 


Bunt-lines under Fore 






























Top 


Shoe. 


2 


18 


1.3 


2 


18 


1.3 


2 


18 


1.3 


2 


18 


1.3 S 


J 16 1.2 


Leech-lines on Yard 


S. 


4 


8 


1.2 


4 


8 


1.2 


4 


8 


'1.2 


4 


8 


1.2 4 


I 8 1.2 


Leech-lines under Top 


D. 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 S 


J 8 1.2 


Leech-lines After - 


D. 


2 


8 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.2 £ 


i 8 1.2 


Leech-lines After - 


S. 


4 


8 


1.3 


4 


8 


1.3 


4 


8 


1.3 


4 


8 


1.2 ^ 


t 8 1.2 


Braces on Yard-arms 


s. 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 S 


515 1.6 


Braces leading under 






























Main Trestle-trees 


s. 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


15 


1.6 S 


!15 1.6 


Lifts on Cap - - - 


D. 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 S 


16 2.2 


Lifts on Yard-arms 


s. 


2 


1G 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.2 S 


16 2.2 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 s 


10 1.1 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 s 


10 1.1 


Boom Jiggers - - 


s. 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 4 


8 1.0 


Boom Jiggers (in and 






























out) - - - - - 


s. 


6 


9 


1.1 


6 


9 


1.1 


6 


9 


1.1 


6 


9 


1.1 6 


8 1.0 


Clew Jiggers - - 


s. 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


8 


U t 


8 1.1 


Bunt Jiggers - - 


s. 


3 


8 


1.1 


3 


8 


1.1 


3 


8 


1.1 


3 


8 


1.1' 3 


8 1.1 


Reef Tackles on Yard 


S.d'blesc'e 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8, 2 


12 1.8 


Fore Tacks in Clews 






























of8ail - - - - 


S. 


2 


15 


2.3 


o 


15 


2.3 


2 


15 


2.3 


2 


14 


2.2 2 


14 2.2 


Sheets in Clews of 






























Sail 


S. 


2 


15 


2.3 


2 


15 


2.3 


2 


15 


2.3 


2 


14 


2.2 2 


14 2.2 


Swinging-boom Top- 






























ping-lifts, - - - 


S. clamp. 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 2 


11 1.5 


Swinging-boom Top- 






























ping-whips, - - 


D. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 2 


10 1.0 


Swinging-boom Top- 






























ping-whips, - - 


S. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 2 


10 1.0 


Pendants for outer 


1 




























Halliards, - - - 


s. 


2 


16 


1.8 


2 


16 


1.8 


2 


16 


1.8 


2 


15 


1.7 2 


14 1.6 


Outer Studding-sail 
Halliards on Boom 


























1 




s. 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 2 


11 1.7 


Inner Studding-sail 




















1 






I 




Halliards on Yard 


s. 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 2 


9 1.3 


Inner Studding-sail 






























Halliards on Gluarter 


s. 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 2 


9 1.3 


Tripping-line - - 1; 


s. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


l.li 2 


9 1.1 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Gcm'd. 367 



Frig- 
ate s« 



2d Class. 



Sloops of IV ar. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 



Brigs. 



Brigan- 
tiiies. 



Schoon- 
ers. 



Steam- 
ers. 



16. 1.6 
16' 1.6 
15 1.5 
15 L.5 



1.5 

1.5 

2.0 
2.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0, 
8Jl.ll 



10 1.0 



14 



1.5 

1.5 

1.8 

1.8 

.9 

.9 

.9 

.9 
1.0 
1.0 
1.6 

2.0 

2.0 

1.3 

.9 

.9 

1.4 

1.5 

1.2 

8 1.2 
81I.O 



12 



i 

1.3 

1.7 

1.7 

.9 

.9 

.9 

I 

.9 

1.0 

.9 

1.6 

1.8 

1.8 

1.3 

.9 

.9 

1.3 

1.5 

1.1 

1.1 1 
1.0 



1.0 

.8 4 

.8! 2 
,8 : j 2 
4 



1.2 



1.2 
1.5 2S. 

2 
2 

V 

.8! 6 



.8 2 



1.2 
1.2 



1.4 
1.1 



- 2 

- 4 

- 2 

--1 



1.1 

1.1 2 

1.2 2s. 

- 2 
.8 2 

.8; 2 

- 4 



- 4 
J 3 

2 



2.0 
2.0 
2.0 
2.1 
1.6 
1.5 

1.3 

1.2 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 



1.5 

1.5 

2.0 
2.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0 

1.1 

1.0 
1.7 



1412.2 
14 2.2 
101.4 



2 

2 8! 1.0 



368 



A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 
tion of 


Skips of tke Line. 








Frig- 




3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass. 


2d Class. 


IstClass. 


Blocks. 






£ 






^ 




! £ 




1 £ 






£ 




Block. 






_o 






o 






_2 






o 






o 

3 








| 


"3 




a5 


"1 




6 


H 






"rf 




oj 


aS 






o" 


£ 


o 


N 


•s 


6 


N 


& 


6 


N 


& 


6 


s 


& 






_£ 


82 


0Q 


J5 


K 


m 


_£ 


0Q 


CQ 


_£ 


53 


02 


J3 


ffl 


02 


FOREM'ST&YARD. 






Continued. 


































Lower Studding-sail 


































Downhaul - - 


S. 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


o 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


After Guys - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


Forward Guys (Cheek 


































on Bowsprit) - - 
Tacks on Boom-end 


S. 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


S. 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


Tricing-lines for Stud- 


































ding-sail Gear - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


FORE TOP MAST 


































AND YARD. 


































Top Blocks - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


22 


3.6 


2 


22 


3.6 


2 


22 


3.6 


2 


20 


3.0 


2 


20 


3.0 


Top Tackles - - 


D. 


4 


20 


2.0 


4 


20 


2.0 


4 


20 


2.0 


4 


20 


2.0 


4 


19 


1.9 


Top Leaders - - 


S. 


2 


20 


2.0 


2 


20 


2.0 


2 


20 


2.0 


2 


20 


2.0 


2 


19 


1.9 


Top Burtons - - 


Fiddle. 


2 


20 


1.4 


2 


20 


1.4 


2 


20 


1.4 


2 


18 


1.4 


2 


18 


1.4 


Top Burtons - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


Top Runners - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


Breast Backstays - 


D. 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


Breast Backstays - 


T. Iron b'd. 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


Gin Blocks (To be fit- 


































ted with band over 


































Trestle Trees - 


S. 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


17 


2.7 


Tye Blocks - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


19 


2.5 


2 


19 


2.5 


2 


19 


2.5 


2 


18 


2.5 


2 


17 


2.4 


Fly Blocks - - - 


D. 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


20 


1.6 


2 


20 


1.6 


Fly Blocks - - - 


S. 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 1 2 


2( 


1.6 


2 


20 


1.6 


Leaders for Fly Blocks 


S. 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


20 


1.6 


2 


20 


1.6 


Braces on Yard-arms 


s. 


2 


17 


1.7 


2 


17 


1.7 


2 


17 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.6 


Braces on Collar of 


































Main Stay - - 
Braces under Main 


s. 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


11 


1.6 


































Trestle Trees - 


s. 


2 


15 


1.7 


2 


15 


1.7 


2 


15 


1.7 


2 


15 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.6 


Sister ----- 


D. 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.2 


2 


20 


2.1 


2 


19 


2.0 


Leaders for Lifts - 


S. Clump. 


2 


12 


2.2 


2 


12 


2.2 


2 


12 


2.2 


2 


10 


2.1 


2 


10 


2.0 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0; 


2 


9 


1.0 


CLuarter Blocks - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.6 


Clew-lines in Clews' 


































of Top-sail - - | 


S. 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


Rolling Tackle - - 


D. 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6, 


2 


11 


1.6 


Rolling Tackle - - 


S. 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.61 


2 


11 


1.6 


Bunt-lines at Mast- 


































head- - - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6; 


2 


12 


1.6 


Reef Tackle Whips 


S. 


4 


12 


1.6 


4 


12 


1.6 


4 


12 


1.6 


4 


12 


1.6) 


4 


12 


1.6 


Sheets in Clews of 




" 






















1 








Top-sail - - - 


S. 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


12 


2.2 


2 


12 


2.2 


Bunt- runner - - - 


s. 


1 


10 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.4! 


1 


9 


1.2 


Jigger for Bunt-runner j 


D. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2: 


1 


8 


1.2 


Jigger for Bunt-runner 


s. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


Clew Jiggers - - 


s. 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


Boom Tricing-lines | 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0' 


2 


811.0 


Span for Studding-sail 


























| 






Halliards - - - 


s. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7, 


2 


121 1.6 


Jewel Blocks - - 


s. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.71 


2 


13) 


1.6 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 369 



Frig- 
ates* 


Sloops of War. 




Brigs. 


Brig 


an- 


Schoon- 


Steam- 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




tines. 


ers. 


ers. 






te 






£ 






i 






i 






£ 






i 






ss 


j 


■J 






J 






o 






_o 






o 






_o 






^o 






_o 






_o 




■ 






w 


% 




aj 


"o3 




e 


"3 




oi 


"3 




o 


*<3 




s 


«3 




d 


"3 


6 


N 


> 


o 


s 


£ 


5* 




sj 


© 


n 


£ 


p 




is 


o 




£ 


6 




£ 


3, 


N 


£ 


g 


OS 


CO 


g 


55 


CO 


g 


02 


03 


g 


go 


CO 


g 


J» 


0J 


g 


QQ 


CQ 


g 


QQ 


CO 


g 


QQ 


» 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 








2 


6 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


20 


3.0 


2 


18 


2.5 


2 


18 


2.5 


1 


16 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.0 


1 


14 


2.0 


1 


10 


1.5 


2 


20 


3.0 


4 


18 


1.9 


4 


16 


1.8 


4 


16 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.5 




















4 


18 


1.9 


2 


18 


1.9 


2 


16 


1.8 


2 


16 


1.8 


1 


14 


1.5 




















2 


18 


1.9 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


15 


1.4 


2 


14 


1.0 


2 


14 


1.0 


2 


13 


.9 


2 


13 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


— 


- 


- 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.5 


4 


14 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


4 


14 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


4 


14 


1.4 


2 


16 


2.5 


2 


14 


2.4 


2 


14 


2.4 


1 


12 


1.8 




















2 


16 


2.3 


2 


16 


2.3 


1 


14 


2.0 


1 


12 


1.8 


1 


12 


1.8 




















2 


16 


2.3 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


14 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


14 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


14 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


2 


18 


1.5 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.5 


2 


13 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


15 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


- 


- 


- 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


18 


2.0 


2 


16 


1.9 


2 


15 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


IS 


2.0 


2 


10 


2.0 


2 


10 


1.9 


2 


9 


1.8 


2 


8 


1.8 


2 


8 


1.7 


2 


7 


1.7 


2 


7 


1.4 


2 


10 


2.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


11 


1.6 


4 


11 


1.6 


4 


9 


1.4 


4 


9 


1.4 


4 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


4 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


J 


2 


10 


1.9 


2 


10 


1.9 


2 


10 


1.9 


2 


















2 


11 


2.0, 


1 


9 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


.9 


1 


8 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


9 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


7 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


7 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.1] 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


.9 


4 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


• 9 ! 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


G 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


- 


- 


- 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6! 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


9 


M 


2 


12 


1.6 



24 



370 



A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 
tion of 


1 


Ships of the 


Line. 








Frig- 




3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass. 


2d Class. 


IstClass. 


Blocks. 






£ 






* 






i 






j» 






i 




Block* 




8 






6 


o 

13 




a> 






q 


13 




s 


o 
-3 






o 


N 


£ 


6 




s 


6 


N 


£ 


c 




£ 


6 




& 






& 


CO 


ca 


_£ 


02 


oa 


_£ 


OS 


a? 


_£ 


j» 


03 


JE 


'co 


03^ 


FORE TOP-MAST 






AND YARD. Contin. 


































Studding-sail Tacks 


































on Buom ends - 


S. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


Studding-sail Down- 


































haul in sails - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Leaders for Boom- 


































braces in Main Rig- 


































ging 


s. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


F'RE TOP-GAL'NT 


































MAST AND YARD. 


































Top Block - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.0 


1 


13 


2.0 


Breast Backstays - 


S. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


Breast Backstays in 


































Channels - - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


Halliards - - - - 


D. 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


Braces on Yard-arms 


S. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


Braces on Collar of 


































Main Top-m'st Stay 


s. 


2 


7 


1.1 


' 2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


Braces on Main Top- 


































mast-head - - - 


s. 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


Sister - - - - - 


s. 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.5 


Lifts in Top - - - 


S. Clamp. 


2 


6 


1.6 


2 


6 


1.6 


2 


6 


4.6 


2 


6 


1.5 


2 


6 


1.5 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


duarter Blocks - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


Bunt-lines - - - 


S. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Span Blocks, Top-gal- 


































lant Studding-sail 


































Halliards - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Jewel Blocks - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Studding-sail Tacks 


































on Boom Ends - 


s. 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


l.l 


F'RE ROYAL MAST 


































AND YARD. 


































Breast Backstays - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


Breast Backstays in 


































Top ----- 

Royal Braces M'nT'p- 
gallant Mast-head 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


































s. 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


•Quarter Blocks 


s. 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


Bunt-line Bloeks - 


s. 


i 1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


FORE TRY-SAIL 


































MAST & GAFF. 


































Peak Halliards - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


Peak Halliards - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.5 


Throat Halliards - 


D. 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5! 


1 


12 


1.5 


Throat Halliards - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.5 


Peak Brails - - - 


Cheek. 
































Throat Brails - - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


Middle Brails - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


Foot Brails - - - 


S. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


Sheets 


S. 


4 


13 


1.7 


4 


13 


1.7 


4 


13 


1.7 


4 


12 


1.6 


4 


12 


1.6 


Vangs 


S. 


' 2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2! 


2 


8 


1.2: 


2 


8 


1.2 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 371 



Frig- 
ates. 


Sloops of War. 


Brigs. 


Br 


igan- 


Schoon- 


Steam- 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




tines. 


ers. 


ers. 


6 

_5_ 


ajj 


~3 

CO 


6 

_5_ 


oS 


5i 



1 

X 


6 
J5_ 


09 

X 


is 

X 


6 

_5_ 




"a 

CO 


6 


s 

■f. 


10 


6 


s 

in 




CO 


J_ 


in 


o 
1 

X 


i_ 


s 
_X 




1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


G 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


G 


1.0 


2 


G 


1.0 


2 


G 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.1 


1 
2 


12 


2.0 


1 


11 


1.8 


1 

2 


11 


1.8 
1 


1 
2 


10 
R 


1.6 


1 
2 


9 
7 


1.4 


1 
2 


9 
7 


1.4 
.9 


2 




1 


1 

2 


12 
9 


2.0 
1 


2 
2 
2 


9 

10 

8 


1.0 
1.2 
1.0 


2 
2 
2 


8 
8 

7 


1.0 
1.2 
1.0 


2 

2 
2 


8 
8 
7 


1.0 
1.2 
1.0 


2 
2 

2 


8 
b 
7 


1.0 
1.2 
1.0 


2 
2 


7 
7 


.9 
1.0 


2 

2 


7 
7 


.9 

i.a 


2 

2 


7 
7 


.9 
1.0 


2 
2 

2 


9 

10 
8 


1.0 
1.2 
1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


G 


1.0 


2 


G 


1.0 


2 


5 


.9 


2 


5 


1 


- 


- 




2 


7 


1.0 


2 

2 
2 
•2 
2 
2 
2 


7 
8 
6 

7 
7 
9 
7 


1.0 
1.4 
1.4 

1.0 
1.0 
1.4 

1.0 


2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 


G 
7 
6 

7 
7 

8 
G 


1.0 
1.4 
1.4 
1.0 
1.0 
1.3 
1.0 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 


G 
7 
G 
G 

G 
7 
G 


1.0 

1,1 

1.4 
.9 
.9 

1.2 
.9 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 


G 
7 
G 

G 
G 
7 
G 


1.0 

1.4 

1.4 

.9 

.9 

1.2 

.9 


2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 


5 
G 
G 
5 
5 
6 
G 


.9 
1.3 
1.4 

.8 

.8 
1.1 

.9 


2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

1 


5 
G 
6 
5 
5 
G 
G 


- 9 i 

1.3! 
1.4' 

.8 

.8 

1.1 

.9 


2 
2 


5 
5 


.9 

1.2 

_ 

J 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 


7 
8 
G 
7 
7 
9 
7 


1.0 
1.4 
1.4 
1.0 
1.0 
1.4 
1.0 


2 
2 


7 
7 


1.0 
1.0 


2 
2 


G 
G 


1.0 
1.0 


2 
2 


6 

G 


.9 
.9 


2 
2 


G 
G 


.9 
.9 


2 
2 


6 
G 


.9 
.9 


2 
2 


6 
6 


.9 
.9 


2 
2 


G 
6 




2 
2 


7 
7 


1.0 
1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


o 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


■ 9 I 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


1 

.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


G 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


- 


- 


- 


2 


6 


.9 


2 

2 

1 


6 
6 
6 


.9 
.9 
.9 


2 
2 
1 


5 
5 

5 


.8 

.8 
.8 


2 
2 
1 


5 
5 
5 


.8 
.8 
.8 


2 
2 
1 


5 

5 
5 


.8 
I 


2 
2 


5 

5 


.8 
.8 


2 
2 


5 
5 


.8 
.8 


- 


: 


- 


2 
2 
1 


6 
6 
6 


.9 
.9 
.9 


1 
2 
1 
1 


11 

11 
11 
11 


1.4 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4 


1 
1 
1 
1 


10 
10 
10 
10 


1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 


1 
1 

1 

1 


10 
10 
10 

10 


1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 


1 
1 
1 


10 

10 
10 
10 


1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 


1 
1 
1 
1 


8 
8 
8 
8 


1.1 
1.1 
1.1 
1.1 


1 

1 
1 


8 
8 

8 
8 


1.1 
1.1 
1.1 
1.1 


1 
2 
1 
1 


14 
14 
14 
14 


1.7 

1.7 
1.7 
1.7 


1 
2 
1 
1 


11 
11 
11 
11 


1.4 
1.4 
1.4 
1.4 


2 
2 
2 
4 
2 


8 
8 
8 

11 

8 


1.1 

.9 

1.1 

1.5 

11.2 


2 
2 
2 
4 
2 


8 

7 

7 

10 

7 


1.1 
.8 
1.0 
1.4 
1.1 


o 
2 
2 
4 

2 


8 

7 

7 

10 

7 


1.1 

.8 
1.0 
1.4 
1.1 


2 

2 

I 

i 2 


8 
7 
7 

10 
7 


1.1 
.8 
1.0 
1.4 
1.1 


2 
2 
2 
4 
2 


7 
6 
G 
8 
6 


1.0 

.7 

.9 

1.2 

1.0 


2 
2 
2 
4 
2 


7 
6 
6 
8 
6 


1.0 

•7 

.9 

1.2 

1.0 


2 
2 
2 

I 


9 
7 
9 

13 
8 


1.2 

J 

1.1 
1.2 


2 

2 
2 
4 
2 


8 

8 

8 

11 

8 


1.1 
.9 
1.1 
1.5 
1.2 



372 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 



Names of 
Blocks* 



MAIN MAST AND 
YARD. 

Runner - - - - 
Tackle for Runner 
Tackle for Runner 
Pendant Tackles - 
Pendant Tackles - 
Truss Tackles - - 
Truss Tackles - - 
Jeers - - - - - 
Jeers - - - - - 
Jeer Leaders - - 
Gluarter Blocks - - 
Clew Garnet - - 
Clews of Sail - - 
Bunt-lines under M'n 

Top 

Bunt-lines under M'n 

Top 

Leech-lines on Yard 
Leech-lines under Top 
Leech-lines After - 
Leech-lines After - 



Braces on Yard-arms 
Braces on Bumkins ■ 
Lifts on Cap - - - 
Lifts on Yard-arms 
Lift Jiggers - - - 
Lift Jiggers - - - 
Boom Jiggers - - 
Boom Jiggers (in and 
out) 
lew * 
Bunt Jiggers 
Reef Tackles on Yard 
Tack Blocks- - - 
Tacks in Clews of 

Sail ----- 
Sheets in Clews of 

Sail 

Runner for Bow-line 
Jigger for Bow-line 
Tricing-lines for Stud- 
ding-sail Gear - 

MAIN TOP-MAST & 
YARD. 

Top Blocks - - - 

Top Tackles - - 

Top Leaders - - 

Top Burtons - - 

Top Burtons - - 

Top Runners - - 



Descrip- 
tion of 
Block. 



S. 
D. 

S. 

D. 

S. 

D: 

S. 

T. 

D. 

S. 
Iron b'd. 
Iron b'd. 

S. 

D. 

Shoe. 
S. 
D. 
D. 

S. 



s. 
s. 

D. 

s. 

D. 

S. 

s. 

s. 
s. 
s. 

d'ble sc'e 
S. 



S. Iron b'd. 
D. 

S. 

Fiddle. 

S. 

S. 



Skips of tke Line. 



3 DECKS. 



22 

22 

220 



2 DECKS. 



IstClass. 2d Class 



2.31 2 

i 

2.3i 2 
1.3! 2 
1.3 2 

1.1 2 



3.0 
1.6 

1.6 
1-6] 

1.6 
1.3 
1.3 
2.4 

2.4 
2.4; 
2.3; 
1.7 
1.7 

1.3 

I 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
8L1.3 



222 



Razees. 



2.8 
1.6 
1.6 
1.6; 

l i\ 

1.3; 

1.3 
2.4 
2.4' 
2.4 
2.2 
1.6 
1.6 
I 

J 



19 2.0 

19: 2.0 



1.3 



2.3 
2.3 
1.1 
1.1 
1.1 

1.1 

1.1 
1.1 
1.8 

, 

2.3 
1.3 
1.3 

1.1 



V2.8 



IstClass. 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Cont'd. 373 



Frig- 
ates. 



2d Class. 



18i 1.9 

181 1.9 

151 2.2 

13:2.1 

9 1.0 

9| 1.0 

8 1.0 



3.0 
2.4 
2.4 
1.4 
1.4 
2.6 



Sloops of War. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 



14 2.0 
12 1.4 
10 1.4 



2 

2 

23. 

2 

2 . 
2 I 8 
4 

6 
4 
3 
9 

12 

12 

12 

S 
8 



1.2 2 



14 



2.5 
1 

l.S 
1.4 
1.4 

2.4; 2 



14 



2 6 
6 



Brigs. 



14 



14 



2.0 



Brigan- Selioon- Steam- 
tines. I ers. ! ers. 



10 



1.2 



2,0 



10 



- 



1.0 



2.0 



15 2.G 
151.6 
151.6 
151.6 
15 1.6 

i- 

19 2.3 
19 2.3 
19 2.3 
15 2.1 



1.5 
1.5 

1.2 

1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 
1.3 



1.9 
1.9 
2.2 
2.1 
1.0 
1.0 
1.0 

1.0 
1.0 
1.0 
1.7 
2.2 

2.2 

2.2 

1.2 

1.2 

1.1 



3.0 
2.4 
2.4 
1.4 
1.4 
2.6 



374 A Table showing* the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 
tion of 


1 


Snips of the Line. 








Frig- 




b 


npfiro 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


C> UUV1VU. 


IstClass. 


2d Class. 


IstClass. 


Blocks. 






£ 






£ 






i 






£ 






i 




Block. 






ji 






js 






JS 






o 






_o 








8 


"3 




<D 


1? 




ai 


'a 






~3 




6 


~3 






6 


N 


& 


o 


N 


£ 


© 




is 


6 


« 


* 


6 


.5 


Z 






_£ 


JQ 


02 


J2h 


33 


05 


_& 


m 


CQ 


_£ 


o3 


05 


J5 


A 


OB 


MAIN TOP-MAST & 






YARD — Continued. 


































Breast Backstays - 


D. 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


Breast Backstays - 


T. Iron b'd. 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


15 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


4 


14 


1.4 


Stay leading in Fore 


































Top 


s. 


! 1 


15 


3.6 


1 


15 


3.6 


1 


15 


3.6 


1 


14 


3.6 


1 


14 


3.6 


Spring Stay leading 




1 
















1 














in Fore Top - - 


S. 


1 


15 


3.6 


1 


15 


3.6 


1 


15 


3.6 


1 


14 


3.6 


1 


14 


3.6 


Gin Blocks (To be fit- 




















1 














ted with band over 




















1 














Trestle Trees - 


S. 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


18 


2.7 


2 


17 


2.7 


Tye Blocks - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


20 


2.7 


2 


20 


2.7 


2 


20 


2.7, 


2 


18 


2.6 


2 


18 


2.6 


Fly Blocks - - - 
Fly Blocks - - - 


D. 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.5 


S. 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.6 


2 


21 


1.6 1 


2 


24 


1.61 2 


22 


1.5 


Leaders for Fly Blocks 


S. 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


1.6 


2 


22 


l.fil 


2 


20 


1.6! 2 


20 


1.6 


Braces on Yard-arms 


s. 


2 


18 


1.8 


2 


18 


1.8 


2 


18 


1.8 


2 


18 


1.8 2 


16 


1.7 


Braces on Mizen M'st 


s. 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


14 


1.7 


Sister 


D. 


2 


20 


2.3 


2 


20 


2.3 


2 


20 


2.3 


2 


20 


2.3| 


2 


19 


2.2 


Leaders for Lifts - 


S. Clamp. 


2 


12 


2.3 


2 


12 


2.3 


2 


12 


2.3 


2 


10 


2.3 


2 


10 


2.2 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


i.o! 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.0 


Quarter Blocks - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7, 


2 


13 


1.7 


Clew-lines in Clews 




















.. 














of sail - - - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6! 


2 


12 


1.6 


Rolling Tackle - - 


D. 


1 


11 


•1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


Rolling Tackle - - 


S. 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


1 


11 


1.6 


Bunt-lines - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


12 16 


Reef Tackle Whips 


S. 


4 


9 


1.3 


4 


9 


1.3 


4 


9 


1.3 


4 


9 


1.3. 


4 


9 1.3 


Sheets in Clews of 


























1 




1 


Sail 


S. 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


13 


2.3 


2 


12 


2.2 


2 


121 2.2 


Bunt-runner - - - 


S. | 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


Jigger for Bunt-runner 


D. 


1 


8 


1.4 


1 


8 


1.4 


1 


8 


L4 


1 


8 


1.4 


1 


8 


1.4 


Jigger for Bunt-runner 


S. 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2. 


2 


7 


l.l 


Clew Jiggers - - 


s. 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2; 


4 


8 


1.1 


Boom Tricing-lines 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Bow-lines in Fore 


























1 








Top ----- 


s. 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.1 


2 


13 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.5 


Span for Studding-sail 


























1 








Halliards - - - 


s. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7j 


2 


12 


1.6 


Jewel Blocks - - 


s. 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7 


2 


13 


1.7; 


2 


12 


1.6 


Studding-sail Tacks 


























l 
i 








on Boom ends - 


s. 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


8 


1.4 


Studding-sail Down- 


























1 








hauler in Sails - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


7 


.9 


Leaders for Boom- 


































braces on Bumkin 


s. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 


































MAST AND YARD. 


































Top Block - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


14 


2.2 


1 


13 


2.0 


Breast Backstays - 


S. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


10 


ll! 


2 


10 


1.1 


Breast Backstays in 


























' 








Channels - - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


Halliards - - - - 


D. 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.2 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, Ui S. N. — Cont'd. 375 



Frig- 
ate s. 


Sloops of War. 


Brigs. 


Brigan- 


Schoon- 


Steam- 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




tines. 


ers. 


ers. 






i 






s 




is 






i 






* 






£ 




I *l 






£ 






J 






_o 






_© 






s 






_o 











1 !§' 






| 




S 


"3 




.- 


~3 




c 


"a 




a! 


"3 




'J 


■3 




B 


~. 




a i 




0* 


a 


o 


I 


6 


s 


fe 


6 


s 


£ 


6 




is 


o" 


s 


5t 







z 


©' 


s 


= 





N 




S 


ja 


X 


g 


j*. 


J£_ 


g 


X 


OT 


g 


Jx 


03 


g 


_X 


<n 


g 


_x 


X 


z 


X 


X 


g 


_x 


CC 


4 


13 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


11 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.0 












— 


4 


.3 


1.4 


4 


13 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


11 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.0 












_ 


4 


13 


1.4 


1 


13 


3.4 


1 


12 


3.2 


1 


12 


3.2 


1 


11 


3.0 


1 


9 


2.8 












_ 


1 


13 


3.4 


1 


13 


3.4 


1 


12 


3.2 


1 


12 


3.2 


1 


11 


3.0 


1 


9 


2.8 














1 


13 


3.4 


2 


16 


2.5 


2 


14 


2.4 


2 


14 


2.4 


2 


12 


1.8 










_ 


~ 








2 


15 


2.5 


2 


16 


2.4 


1 


14 


2.2 


I 


13 


2.0 


1 


12 


1.9 


1 


10 


1.8 


_ 


- 




_ 


- 


- 2 


16 


2.4 


2 


■22 






m 




2 






2 






2 


12 


1 3 


1 


12 


1 3 


1 


12 


1.3 2 


00 


1 5 


2 


22 


1.5 


















1.4 
























2 


18 


1.5 


2 


16 


1.4 


2 


14 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.2 2 


18 


1.5 


2 


15 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.2 2 


15 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.7 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


- 


- 


- 2 


14 


1.7 


2 


16 


2.2 


2 


16 


2.0 


2 


15 


1.9 


2 


14 


1.8 


2 


13 


1.5 


2 


18 


1.2 


_ 


- 


- 


2 


18 


2.2 


2 


9 


2.2 


2 


9 


2.0 


2 


8 


1.9 


2 


8 


1.8 


2 


7 


1.5 


2 


7 


1.5 


- 


- 




2 


9 


2.2 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


'9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


- 


- 


_ 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


- 


- 


- 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.2 


- 


- 


- 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


in 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


11 


1.5 


1 


11 


1.5 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.3 


I 


9 


1.1 














1 


11 


1.5 


1 


11 


1.5 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


9 


1.1 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


1 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


10 


1.3 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


- 




4 2 


11 


1.5 


4 


8 


1.2 


4 


6 


1.2 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


- 


- 


J 4 


H 


1.2 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


10 


1.8 


2 


10 


1.8 


2 


9 


1.7 


2 


8 


1.6 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


-2 


11 


2.0 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


.9 


1 


8 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 1 


9 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.1 


] 


7 


1.1 


1 


7 


1.1 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


_ 


_ 




_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


2 


6 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.1 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


6 


.9 


4 


6 


.9 


4 


6 1 .9 


- 


- _ 


4 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


A 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


- 


- 


_ 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.1 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


2 


12 


1.5 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.2 


_ 




_ 


_ 




_ 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


11 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.2 


- 




- 


- 


- 


- 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


7 


1.3 


2 


6 


1.2 


2 


5 


1.1 


2 


5 


1.1 


- 


- 










2 


6 


1.4 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.7 












- 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 














2 


7 


1.1 


1 


12 


2.0 


1 


11 


1.8 


1 


11 


1.8 


1 


10 


1.6 


t 


9 


1.4 














1 


12 


2.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


3 


7 


.9 


- 




- 


- 




- 


2 


9 


1.8 


2 


'9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


7 


.9 














2 


9 


1.0 


2 


.10 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


u 


8 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


1 — 






_ 






2 


10 


,1.2 



376 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 
tion of 


| Ships of the Line. 








Frig- 




1 

3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees* 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass. 


2d Class. 


IstClass. 


Blocks* 






* 1 




£ 






£ 


1 1 * 






| 




Block. 






o 






o 






^o 


£ 






JS 








QJ 


1? 




<D 


13 




oi 


"oJ 


.1 45! 'ti 






13 






6 


N 


£ 


6 


N 


£ 


6 


N 


£ 


S' .21 £ 


6 


N 


BE 






Jh 


53 


02 


jZ 


0Q 


to 


_£ 


«j 


02 


g GO 1 03 


2", 


0Q 


02 


MAIN TOP-GAL'NT 














MAST & YARD. Con. 


































Braces on Yard-arms 


S. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Braces on Collar of 


































Miz. Top-mast Stay- 
Braces at Mizen Top- 


s. 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


































mast-head - - - 


s. 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.0, 


2 


G 


1.0 


Sister - - - - - 


s. 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


10 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.5 


Lifts in Top - - - 


S. Clamp. 


2 


9 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.6 


2 


9 


1.5 


2 


9 


1.5 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0; 


2 


8 


.9 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


S 


.9 


Gluarter Blocks - - 


D. 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4' 


2 


10 


1.4 


Bunt-lines - - - 


S. 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9; 


2 


7 


.8 


Span Blocks, Main 


































Top-gallant Stud- 


































ding-sail Halliards 


S. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


Jewel Blocks - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2' 


2 


8 


1.2 


Studding-sail Tacks 


































on Boom ends - 


s. 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.0 


MA'N ROYAL MAST 


































AND YARD. 


































Breast Backstays - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


n 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Breast Backstays in 


































Top ----- 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


Royal Braces Mizen 


































Top-gallant Mast- 
































head - - - - 


S. 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


Gluarter Blocks 


s. 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


Bunt-line - - - - 


s. 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


1 


6 


.9 


Bow-lines leading to 


























1 








F. T. G. Mast-head 


s. 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8' 

1 


2 


6 


.8 


MAIN TRY-SAIL 


































MAST & GAFF. 


































Peak Halliards - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


1 1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


Peak Halliards - - 


s. 


; 1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


Throat Halliards - 


D. 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


Throat Halliards - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


Peak Brails - - - 


Cheek. 
























1 








Throat Brails - - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


Middle Brails - - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


Foot Brails - - - 


s. 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


Sheets - - - - - 


s. 


4 


10 


1.5 


4 


10 


1.5 


4 


10 


1.5 


4 


10 


1.4 


4 


10 


1.4 


Sheets on Booms of 


































two-masted vessels 


D. 
































Vangs - - - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


MIZEN MAST AND' 


































CROSS-JACK Y'RD.! 


































Pendant Tackles - 


D. 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.5 


2 


13 


1.5 


Pendant Tackles - 


S. 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


14 


1.6 


2 


13 


1.5 


2 


13 


1.5 


Truss Tackles - - 


D. 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S# N. — Cont'd. 377 



Frig, 
ates. 



2d Class. 



1 i 



Sloops of War. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 



Brigs. 



Brigan< 
tines. 



Schoon 
ers. 



Steam- 
ers. 



1.1 



2 6 
2 6 



1.0 



1.0 



1.0 



1.1 



1.0 



1 14 

2 14 
1 14 
1 14 



12 



378 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 


Skips of tke Line. 








Frig- 




3 DECKS 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass. 


2d Class. 


IstClass. 




tion of 












Blocks. 






i 






£ 






i 






Sj 




£ 




Block. 






_o 






o 






JO 






jS 




JO 








8 


"3 




6 


1? 




£ 






«■? 


"3 




6 5 






° 


? 


o 


s 


£ 


o 


s 


'■$■ 







£ 





£ £ 






fe 


_GQ 


JO_ 


J5 


K 


CO 


fc 


JE 


CO 


_£ 


53 


CO 


_z 


K JO_ 


MIZEN MAST AND 
































CR. JACK Y'RD. Con. 
































Truss Tackles - - 


s. 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


9 


1.1 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 1.0 


Quarter Blocks - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


12 


2.C 


2 


12 


2.0 


2 


12 


2.0 


2 


11 


2.0 


21 


1 2.0 


Braces on Yard-arms 


S. 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


21 


1 1.4 


Braces leading under 






























Main Trestle Trees 


D. 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 1.4 


Lifts on Cap - - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


12 


1.8 


2 


11 


1.8 


21 


1 1.8 


Quarter Davit Top- 
































ping-lifts - - - 


D. 


; 2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 1.2 


Quarter Davit Top- 




1 




























ping-lifts - - - 


S. 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 1.2 


MIZEN TOP-MAST 
































AND YARD. 
































Top Blocks - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


17 


2.8 


2 


17 


2.8 


2 


17 


2.8 


2 


16 


2.6, 


11 


5 2.4 


Top Burtons - - 
Top Burtons - - 
Top Runners - - 


Fiddle. 


2 


18 


1.1 


2 


18 


1.1 


2 


18 


1.1; 


2 


18 


l.ll 


21 


6 1.1 


S. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


21 


1.1 


S. 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5 


2 


10 


1.5; 


2 


10 


1.5, 


21 


1.4 


Breast Backstays - 


D. 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


21 


3 1.3 


Breast Backstays - 


T.Iron b'd. 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


21 


3 1.3 


Stay leading in Main 
































Top 

Tye 

Fly 

Fly 


S. 


1 


10 


2.5 


1 


10 


2.5 


1 


10 


£5 


1 


10 


2.5 


1 


3 2.0 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


13 


2.5 


1 


13 


2.5 


1 


13 


2.5| 


1 


13 


2.5 


11 


2 2.0 


D. 


1 


16 


1.4 


1 


16 


1.4 


1 


16 


1.4' 


1 


16 


1.4 


11 


3 1.4 


S. 


1 


16 


1.4 


1 


16 


1.4 


1 


16 


1.4 


1 


16 


1.4 


11 


3 1.4 


Braces on Yard-arms 


S. 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


21 


1 1.2 


Braces leading at the 




















1 












Main Masthead - 


s. 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


2 


12 


1.3 


21 


1 1.2 


Sister - - - - - 


D. 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


21 


3 1.7 


Leaders for Lifts - 


S. Clamp. 


2 


9 


1.7 


2 


9 


1.7 


2 


9 


1.7 


2 


8 


1.7 


2 


3 1.7 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


D. 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


3 .8 


Lift Jiggers - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


8 


.8 


2 


3 .8 


Quarter Blocks 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


11 


L.4J 


2 


10 


1.4 


21 


3 1.4 


Clew-lines in Clews 


























| 






of sail - - - - j 


S. 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.3 


2 J 


3 1.3 


Rolling Tackle - - 


S. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 i 


3 1.2 


Rolling Tackle - - i 


D. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2' 


1 i 


3 1.2 


Bunt-lines - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


l.l! 


211 


) 1.1 


Reef Tackle Whips 


S. 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 ' 


7 1.1 


Sheets in Clews of i 
































Sail 


s. 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


10 


1.9 


21( 


) 1.9 


Bunt-runner - - - [ 


s. 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 


8 


1.0 


1 I 


3 1.0 


Jigger for Bunt-runner! 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0, 


2 ' 


7 1.0 


Clew Jiggers - - | 


s. 


4 


8 


1.0 


4 


8 


1.0 


4 


8 


1.0 


4 


8 


1.0 


4 c 


i 1.0 


Bow-lines in the Main 
































Top 


s. 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 I 


j 1.0 


MIZEN TOP-GAL'T 
































MAST & YARD. 
































Top Block - - - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.4 


1 


11 


1.4; 


111 


1.4 


Breast Backstays - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


21] 


1.4 


Breast Backstays in 






i 


















1 
1 - 




Channels - - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


2 


12| 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


12 


1.4 


2 


11 


1-4,1 


211 


1.4 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. Si N.— Cont'd. 379 



Frig- 
ates. 



2d Class, 



Sloops of War. 



1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 



Brigs. 



Brigan- 
tines. 



Sclioon 
ers. 



Steam- 
ers. 



P't 



2.0 

1.0 
1.0 
1.4 

1.2 
1.2 

2.0 



1.5 

1.5 

.8 

.8 

1.3 

1.3 
1.0 
1.0 
1.1 
1.0 

1.8 
1.0 
1.0 



101.4 
101.4 

10ll.4 



380 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 





Descrip- 
tion of 


Skips of tke Line. 








Frig- 




3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


Names of 


IstClass 


2d Class. 


1 


stClass. 


Blocks. 






£ 






i 






£ 






£■ 


i 




Block. 






_o 






_© 






_o 






^o 


j2 








<u 


"3 




o 


"3 




89 


"tf 






13 


6 "3 






o 


,E 


£ 


o 


N 


& 


© 


s 


£ 


6 


s 


£ 


» .S * 






J£ 


5 


to 


J5 


bo 


qq 


__£ 


W 


CQ 


_£ 


a 


03 < 


h «5 _0O_ 


MIZEN TOP-GAL'T 






MAST & YARD. Con. 






























Halliards - - - 


D. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 
1.2 


L 8 1.2 


Halliards - - - 


S. 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


1.2 


1 


8 


L 8 1.2 


Braces on Yard-arms 






























Braces on Main Top- 






























mast Backstays - 


D. 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 S 


I 6 1.0 


Sister 


S. 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


8 


1.4 


2 


7 


1.3 $ 


J 7 1.3 


Lifts in Top (Bull's 

Eyes) - - - - 
Lift Jiggers - - - 
Lift Jiggers - - - 


S. 
D. 


2 
2 


7 


1.0 


2 
2 


7 


1.0 


2 
2 


7 


1.0 


2 
2 


7 


_ c 

1.0 s 


I - - 
I 7 1.0 


S. 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0, 5 


I 7 1.0 


duarter Blocks 


D. 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2; •; 


I 7 1.2 


Bunt-line - - - - 


S. 


1 


7 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.2 


1 


7 


1.2j 1 


L 7 1.2 


Bow-lines at Main 






























Top-mast head - 


D. 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 


2 


7 


1.2 5 


I 7 1.2 


MIZ. ROYAL MAST 






























AND YARD. 






























Breast Backstays - 


S. 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 S 


5 6 .8 


Breast Backstays in 






























Top 


D.Ironb'dJ 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8 


2 


7 


.8j 
.8 


: 2 


6 


.8 S 


! 6 .8 


duarter Blocks - - 


S. 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


2 


6 


.8j ', 


! 6 .8 


Braces Main Top- 






























mast-head - - - 


S. 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 £ 


6 1.0 


Bow-lines leading to 






























M'n Top-mast head 


S. 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 


2 


6 


1.0 s 


6 1.0 


Bunt-lines - - - 


S. 


1 


6 


1.0 


1 


6 


1.0 


1 


6 


1.0 


1 


6 


1.0 1 


6 1.0 


SPANKER BOOM 






























AND GAFF. 






























Topping-lifts - - 


S. 


2 


13 


2.7 


2 


13 


2.7 


2 


13 


2.7j 


2 


13 


2.7 2 


12 2.5 


Tackles for Topping- 


























1 




lifts 


D. 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 2 


11 1.2 


Tackles for Topping- 


























1 




lifts 


S. 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 


2 


12 


1.2 2 


11 1.2 


Sheets - - - - - 


D. 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 2 


11 1.5 


Sheets - - - - - 


S. 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 


2 


12 


1.7 2 


11 1.5 


Peak Halliards - - 


D. Iron b'd. 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


13 


1.4 1 


13 1.4 


Peak Halliards - - 


S. 


2 


13 


1.4 


2 


13 


1.4 


2 


13 


L.4 


2 


12 


1.4 2 


12 1.4 


Throat Halliards - 


D. 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


13 


1.4 1 


13 1.4 


Throat Halliards - 


S. Iron b'd. 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


14 


1.4 


1 


13 


1.4 1 


13 1.4 


Peak Brails - - - 


Cheek. 1 
























1 




Throat Brails - - 


S. 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 2 


8 1.1 


Middle Brails - - 


S. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 2 


8 1.0 


Foot Brails - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


l.lj 2 


8 1.0 


Outhauler - - - 


s. 


1 


13 


1.7 


1 


13 


1.7 


1 


13 


1.7 


1 


13 


1.7 1 


12 1.5 


Vangs - - - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 2 


7 1.1 


Vangs leading on 


























1 




duarter - - - 


s. 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 


2 


8 


1.2 2 


7 1.1 


Dasher Block (En- 


1 




























sign Halliards) - 


D. || 


1 






1 


— 




1 






1 




- 1 1 





ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U t S. N« — Cont'd. 381 



Frig- 
ates. 


Sloops of War* 


Brigs. 


Brig 


an- 


Schoon- 


1 
Steam- 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




tines. 


ers. 


ers. 


d 


6 
s 


is 

o 
CO 


1_ 


6 
s 

53 


CO 


i_ 


6 

N 

53 


S 

CO 


6 


a 


CO 




53 


CO 




53 


CO 


1 


93 
0Q 


£ 

O 

- 

CO 


6 

_5_ 


CO 


i 
> 

CO 


1 


7 


1.0 


1 


7 


1.0 


i 


G 


.9 


1 


G 


.9 




















1 


7 


1.0 


L 


7 


1.0, 1 


7 


1.0 


i 


6 


.9 


1 


G 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 




1 


7 


1.0 


2 


5 


.9 2 


5 


.9 


2 


4 


.8 


2 


5 


.9 




















2 


5 


.9 


2 


7 


1.3 


2 


6 


1.2 


2 


G 


1.2 


2 


5 


1.0 


















_ 


2 


7 


1.3 


2 


. 


J 


2 






2 






2 
























2 






2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 




2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 




2 


6 


.9 


2 


6 


1.1 


2 


6 


1.1 


2 


5 


1.0 


2 


5 


1.0 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 




_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


G 


1.1 


1 


G 


1.1 


1 


5 














.9 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


~ 






6 


1.1 


2 


G 


1.1 


2 


5 


1.0 


2 


5 


1.0 


2 


5 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


~ 


- 


2 


6 


1.1 


2 


6 


.8 

! 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 




















2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 




_ 


_ 




— 


2 


6 


.8 


2 


6 


.8 

1 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 




















2 


6 


.8 


2 


5 


• 


2 


5 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


2 


5 


.9 


2 


5 


.9 


2 


5 


.9 


2 


5 


.8 


2 


5 


.8 


_ 


_ 


_ 






_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


5 


.9 


1 


5 


.9 


1 


5 


.9 


1 


5 


.8 


1 


5 


.8 






" 


" 


— 


— 


" 


— 


"~ 


1 


5 


.9 


2 


12 


2.5 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


10 


1.8 


2 


10 


1.8 


2 


11 


2.0 


2 


12 


2.5 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 




























2 


10 


1.1 


2 


9 


1.0 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


8 


.9 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


11 


1.2 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


10 


1.4 


1 


12 


1.3 


1 


11 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


- 
















_ 


1 


12 


1.3 


2 


11 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.1 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


11 


1.3 


1 


12 


1.3 


1 


11 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


- 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


1 


12 


1.3 


I 


12 


1.3 


1 


11 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.1 


1 


10 


1.1 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


" 


- 


1 


12 


1.3 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.0 


2 


7 


1.0 


_ 


_ 


_ 








_ 




_ 


2 


8 


1.1 


2 


3 


1.0 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


- 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


J 

1 


_ 


_ 


_ 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


8 


1.0 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


2 


7 


.9 


_ 


_ 


- 


_ 


_ 


J 


- 


_ 


_ 


2j 8 


1.0 


1 


12 


1.5 


1 


10 


1.4 


1 


9 


1.2 


1 


9 


1.2 


- 


_ 


_ 


_ 


_ 


J 


_ 


_ 


_ 


1 ,12 


1.5 


2 


7 


11 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


1 


- 


- 


- 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


7 


1.1 


2 


6 


.9 


- 


- 


- 


- 


- 


1 


- 


- 


- 


2 


7 


1.1 


1 




_| 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 




_l 


1 




— 


1 







382 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- 



Names of 
Blocks. 



MISCELLANEOUS 
BLOCKS. 

Cat Blocks - - - 
Cat Backropes - - 
Fish Tackle - - 
Fish Leaders - - 
Clear Hawse Pend'nts 
Bull's Eyes for clothes- 
lines - - - - - 
Cap Bobstay Hearts 
Middle and Inner H'rts 
Bowsprit Shr'ds H'rts 
Iron-strapped Bull's 
Eyes (in head), size 
and number as req'd 
Luff Tackle Blocks 
Luff Tackle Blocks for 
Stays 
eading 
Fo'castle and Gang- 
ways - - - - 
Fife-rail Leaders - 
Side Leaders - - 
Snatch Blocks - - 
Hammock Girt-lines 
Ham'ck Tricing-lines 
Relieving Tackles - 
Relieving Tackles - 
Awning Jiggers 
Lower Yard Whips 
Crow-foot Halliards 

for Awnings - - 
Stern, Gluarter and 
Waist Davit Blocks 
Leading Trucks - 
Leading Trucks - 
Fore Yard - - - 
Fore Yard - - - 
Fore Stay - - - 
Fore Stay - - - 
Main Yard - - - 
Main Yard - - - 
Main Stay - - - 
Main Stay - - - 
Gluarter and Stay - 
Dead Eyes (set) 
Stock and Bill Tackle! 
Stock and Bill Tackle; 
Trucks for Jaws of j 
Gaff (set) - .- - ! 
Masthead Trucks(set) 
F. T. Studding-sail | 
Boom Burtons - j 
F. T. Studding-sail j 
Boom Burtons - j 



Des. 




Ships of the Line. 








Frig- 


3 DECKS. 


2 DECKS. 


Razees. 


ates. 


of 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 




1st Class. 






> 






■j 






i 






■> 






i- 


Bl'ck. 






_o 






jg 






s§* 













JO 






CO 


"3 




6 






» 






6 


n 




aj 


m 




1 


5j 




1 


33 


05 


6 


02 


is 

03 


A 


_03 


03 


6 






T. 


2 


20 


2.6 


2 


20 


2.6 


2 


20 


2.6 


2 


20 


2.5 


2 


18 


2.2 


S. 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


9 


1.2 


4 


8 


1.1 


D. 


4 


20 


2.2 


4 


20 


2.2 


4 


20 


2.2 


4 


20 


2.2, 


4 


20 


2.0 


S. 


3 


18 


2.2 


3 


18 


2.2 


3 


18 


2.2 


3 


18 


2.2 


3 


16 


1.8 


s. 


1 


- 


- 


1 


- 


- 


1 


- 


~ 


1 


- 


- 


1 


- 


- 




100 


_ 


_ 


100 


_ 


_ 


100 


_ 


_ 


100 


_ 


_ 


80 


_ 


_ 


L.Vit. 


2 






2 






2 




_ 


2 






2 






L. Vit. 


4 


- 


_ 


4 


- 


_ 


4 


- 


J 


4 


- 


- 


4 


- 


- 


L.Vit. 


8 






8 






8 




J 


8 






8 






S. 


60 


12 


1.4 


60 


12 


1.4 


60 


12 


1.4 


60 


12 


1.4 

1 


40 


12 


1.4 


D. i 

i 


1G 


15 


1.8 


16 


15 


1.8 


16 


15 


1.8 


16 


14 


1.J 


16 


14 


1.6 


Assort 


12 


_ 




12 


_ 




12 






12 






12 






S.d.sc 


56 


- 


_ 


56 


- 


_ 


56 


_ 


i 


56 


- 


1 


56 




- 


- 


100 


- 


_ 


100 


- 


_ 


100 


_ 


_ 


400 


- 


_! 


100 


fe- 


_ 


Assort I 


20 


- 


_ 


20 


- 


- 


20 


_ 


— i 


20 


- 


! 


20 


- 


- 


S. 


20 


12 


1.8 


20 


12 


1.8 


20 


12 


1.8! 


20 


12 


1.8 


16 


ll 


1.5 


S. 


12 


10 


1.4 


12 


10 


1.4 


12 


10 


1.4' 


12 


10 


1. 4 


12 


9 


1.0 


D. 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4! 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


S. 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4! 


2 


10 


1.4: 


2 


10 


1.4 


D. 


8 


10 


1.4 


8 


10 


1.4 


8 


10 


1.4 1 


8 


10 


1.4 


8 


9 


1.2 


S. 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


9 


1.1 


4 


8 


1.0 


S. 


12 


7 


.9 


12 


7 


.9 


12 


t 


.9 


12 


7 


.9, 

1 


12 


7 


.9 


D.Irb. 


20 


10 


1.4 


20 


10 


1.4 


20 


10 


1.4 


20 


10 


1 

1.4; 


12 


10 


1.4 


D. 


30 


- 


_ 


30 


- 


_ 


30 


_ 


J 


30 


- 


_j 


30 


- 


- 


S. 


30 


- 


_ 


30 


- 


_ 


30 


_ 


J 


30 


_ 


_ l 


30 


- 




Fiddle 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


S. 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.7 


D. 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7J 


1 


16 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


S. 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7| 


1 


16 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


Fiddle 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.71 


2 


33 


1.7 


2 


33 


1.7 


S. 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


18 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.7 


2 


16 


1.7 


D. 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


S. 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


17 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


1 


16 


1.7 


S. 


4 


16 


1.6 


4 


16 


1.6 


4 


16 


1.6 


4 


15 


1.6 


4 


15 


1.6 


_ 


1 






1 






1 






1 






1 






D. 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


s.. 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6! 

1 


2 


12 


1.6 


2 


12 


1.6 


i 


1 






1 






1 




! 


1 






1 






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1 






1 






1 






1 




— i 


1 






D. 

| 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


s. I 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.11 


2 


10 


1.1 



ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Conc'd. 383 



Frig- 
ates. 


Sloops of" War. 


Brigs. 


Brigan- 


Sclioon- 


| Steam- 


2d Class. 


1st Class. 


2d Class. 


3d Class. 




tines. 




1 






* 






> 






i 






> 






=: 






st" 






£ 


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17 


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1.7 


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1.6 


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11 


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17 


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H 


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7 


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3 


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1 


1 


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20 


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60 


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9 






2 






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2 






2 






2 




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4 






4 






4 






4 






2 






2 






2 




J 


4 






8 




i 


4 






4 






4 






4 






4 






4 






8 


— 


' 


40 


11 


1.4 


24 


10 


1.2 


24 


10 


1.2 


24 


10 


1.2 


20 


10 


1.2 


20 


9 


1.1 


20 


9 


1.1 


40 


11 


1.4 


16 


13 


1.5 


8 


12 


1.4 


8 


12 


1.3 


8 


11 


1.3 


8 


11 


1.3 


4 


10 


1.2 


4 


10 


1.2 


16 


13 


1.5 


12 




1 


8 






8 






8 
























12 






40 


_ 


-36 


_ 


_ 


36 


- 


_ 


36 


_ 


_ 


20 


_ 


- 


20 


- 


- 


20 


- 


- 


40 


- 


- 


100 


_ 


-80 


_ 


-80 


- 


_ 


70 


- 


_ 


|40 


- 


- 


40 


- 


- 


20 


- 




100 


- 


- 


20 


_ 


J 15 


_ 


-15 


_ 


_ 


15 


_ 


_10 


- 


_ 


10 


- 


- 


8 


- 


_ 


15 


- 


- 


16 


10 


1.4 |12 


10 


1.412 


9 


1.2 


12 


9 


1.2 


8 


9 


1.2 


8 


9 


1.2i 


8 


9 


1.1 


16 


10 


1.4 


12 


9 


1.0 12 





1.012 


8 










8 


















9 


1.0 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


12 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 


2 


9 


1.2 2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


10 


1.4 


2 


9 








1.2 


2 


















10 


1.4 


8 


9 


1.2 


8 


8 


1.1 


8 


8 


1. 1 


8 


7 


9 


6 


7 


.9 


6 


6 


.8 


6 


G 


.8 


8 





1.2 


4 


8 


1.0 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


7 


1.0 


4 


6 


.8 


4 


6 


.8 


2 


G 


.8 


4 


8 


1.0 


12 


6 


.8 


6 


G 


.8 


6 


6 


.8 


6 


6 


.8 


4 


5 


.7 


4 


5 


.7 


4 


5 


.7 


6 


6 


.8 


12 


10 


1.2 


10 


!) 


1.1 


10 


9 


1.1 


10 


8 


1.0 


10 


8 


1.0 


10 


8 


1.0 


10 


8 


1.0 


12 


10 


1.2 


30 


_ 


-,20 


_ 


_ 


20 


- 


_ 


20 


- 


_ 


12 


- 


_ 


12 


- 


J 


12 


- 


_ 


30 


- 


- 


30 


_ 


-20 






20 












12 


















30 






. 2 


30 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.5 


2 


22 


1.5 


2 


22 


1.4 


1 


20 


1.4 


1 


20 


1.3 


1 


20 


1.3 


2 


30 


l.G 


2 


16 


1.5 


2 






2 












1 


















2 






1 


15 


1.6 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.2 


- 


- 


- 


1 


15 


l.G 


1 


15 


1.6 


1 






1 












1 


















1 


L5 


l.G 


2 


30 


1.6 


2 


24 


1.5 


2 


22 


1.5 


2 


22 


1.4 


1 


20 


1.4 


1 


20 


1.3 


1 


20 


1.3 


2 


30 


l.G 


2 


16 


1.5 


2 


14 


1.5 


2 


13 


1.3 


2 


13 


1.3 


1 


12 


1.2 


1 


12 


1.2 


1 


10 


1.1 


2 


10 


1.5 


1 


15' 1.6 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.3 


1 


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1.2 


- 


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J 


1 


15 


l.G 


1 


15! 1.6 


1 


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1 


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1.5 


1 


13 


1.5 


1 


12 


1.3 


1 


10 


1.2 


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1 


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4 


14 1.5 


4 


13 


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12 


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12 


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1 




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11 


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11 


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2 


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1.2 


2 


10 


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J 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


11 


1.4 


2 


10 


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2 


10 


1.2 












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2 


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1 






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1 






1 






1 


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2 


10 


1.1 


2 


9 


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2 


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2 


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- 


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- 


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_ 


- 


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- 


- 


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2 


10 


1.0 



384 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



525.— A Table showing the projective Distances from 
Spar-deck of IT. S. Ship North Carolina* 



From Night-head to Bowsprit Cap 53 feet 

" " to Jib-boom ... 91 « 

" " to Flying Jib-boom - - - 109 " 

" " to Jib of Jib-Truck - - 128 " 



From Spar-deck to Fore Cap - 77i " 

u " to F. T. M. Cap - 122i " 

Ck " to F. T. Gallant Cap - - - 145i " 

" " to F. Royal Cap - - - 170* " 

" " to F. Sky-sail Truck - - - 187£ " 

" " to Main Cap ... 90 " 

" " to M. T. M. Cap ... 141 " 

" " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - 166 " 

" " to M. Royal Cap ... I93i " 

" " to M. Sky-sail Truck - - 21l£ " 

" " to Mizen Cap 75£ " 

" « to M. T. M. Cap - 116 " 

" " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - - - 136 " 

" " to M. Royal Cap - 158 « 

" " to M. Sky-sail Truck - 173 " 

Length on Spar-deck 209 " 

Main Gun-deck 207 " 

Lower Gun-deck 201 " 

Extreme length from Night-head to TafTrail - 210 " 

Ft. In. 

Breadth of Beam ------- 53.6 

Depth from Taffiail to False Keel - - - 53.4 

Height from Water to Port-sill - 7.6 

Height between deck from Spar to Main Gun-deck 7.1 

" " " from Main to Lower Gun-deck 7.3 

u " " from Lower to Orlop - - 7.3 

Size of Spar-deck Beam ----- 10 

" of Main Gun-deck Beam - 1.3 

" of Lower Gun-deck Beam - - - - 1.3 

Height from Port-sills to Spar-deck - .7 

" « to Main Gun-deck - - l.llf 

" " to Lower Gun-deck - - 2.2 



OR YOUNG SAILORS 5 ASSISTANT. 



385 



Distance 


between 


Ports No. 1 ai 


id 2, Spar-deck - 


8.1 


tt 


u 


2 


< 3, " 


12.5 


u 


a 


" 3 


' 4, " 


7. 


tt 


a 


4 


< 5, " 


6.10 


tt 


ti 


" 5 < 


6, " 


8. 


U 


it 


" 6 


1 7, " 


8. 


it 


ti 


a 7 i 


< 8, « 


8. 


it 


it 


8 ' 


< 9, " 


7.9 


a 


tt 


u 9 t 


' 10, " 


7. 


a 


tt 


" 10 < 


< 11, 


. 7.10 


a 


It 


a n < 


£ 12, " 


5.10 


u 


it 


" 12 < 


' 13, " 


7. 


a 


ti 


" 13 < 


' 14, " 


10.3 


tt 


tt 


" 14 ' 


1 15, " 


6.8 


u 


it 


" 15 < 


< 16, " 


10.2 


a 


it 


« 16 < 


' 17, " 


9.9 


it 


tt 


17 < 


' 18, " 


6. 


a 


it 


After Port am 


1 Counter - 


7.6 


it 


ti 


Bridle Port and No. 1 Main Gun- 








deck 


_ 


11. 


a 


ti 


All the other 


Ports 


8. 


u 


tt 


After Port an< 


1 Counter 


12.6 


Between Ports on Lower Gui 


a-deck the same. 










Length. 


Depth. 


Size of Spar-deck 


Ports 


3.1 


3.6 


" Main Gun-deck do. 


- 3.6 


2.11 


Lower Gun-deck do. 


3.2 


2.11 




25 



386 



THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



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OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



387 



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OR YOUJSG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 389 



RECIPES 



527.— FOR BLACKING- SHIP'S STANDING-RIGGING. 

To a half barrel of tar add 6 gallons of whiskey, 4 pounds of 
litharge, 4 pounds lamp-black, 2 buckets of boiling beef-pickle, 
or hot salt water out of the coppers, if the other cannot be had 
conveniently ; mix well together and apply immediately. 



528.— FOR BLACKING GUNS. 

Six pound of beeswax mixed with one gallon of spirits of tur- 
pentine, one paper of lamp-black, mixed well together, for twenty 
24 pounders. 

Note. — The beeswax to be cut fine, and dissolved in spirits of 
turpentine before being mixed with the lamp-black. 



529.— FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK-CLOTHS, YARDS, 
AND BENDS. 

First scrub the cloth well with salt water, and while wet put 
on the first coat of priming, which should be well-ground paint, 
with one and-a-half pounds of beeswax added to each gallon of 
paint ; after the first coat is dry, put on second, mixed as follows, 
viz. : one pound lamp-black mixed for paint, one pound red lead, 
one gallon paint oil, half pound litharge, and half an ounce of 
indigo, boiled for half an hour, and stirred at intervals. Care 
should be taken that the composition boils that length of time. 
After it has cooled a little, add one pint of spirits of turpentine ; 
apply when warm, and it will dry in a short time with a beauti- 
ful gloss, and be perfectly limber. This last mixture has been 
found very suitable for yards, and also the bends ; but it must 
never be used too warm, particularly on canvass, in w T hich case 
it will lose its gloss. The priming, or first coat, is not put on 
cloths that have been blacked before. 



390 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 



530.— FOR MAKING LIQUID-BLACKING. 

Four ounces of ivory black, five or six table-spoonsful of mo- 
lasses, one and a-half ounce oil of vitriol, one and a-half ounce 
sweet oil, and six gills of vinegar. After mixing the ingredients 
together well and stirring them frequently, the blacking will be 
fit for use. 



531.— FOR BLACKING GUNS. 

Six ounces of lamp-black, three pints of spirits of turpentine, 
and three ounces of litharge to be put in after the lamp-black 
and turpentine are well mixed ; add one ounce of umber to give 
it a gloss, and one gallon bright varnish. 



532.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING GUNS. 

Six pounds of beeswax cut up fine, then add seven quarts 
spirits of turpentine ; let it stand until it is well dissolved, then 
add one pound lamp-black, and mix it well together. 



533.— FOR MAKING BLACK-VARNISH, NO. I 

Two pounds of gum shellac, two pounds umber, one gallon 
linseed oil, and quarter pound of lamp-black ; boiled together for 
four hours over a slow fire. 



534.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK 
CLOTHS, NO. I. 

Twenty founds of beeswax, four pounds rosin, two gallons 
spirits of turpentine, one gallon paint oil, and six pound of lamp- 
black. Boil them well together, and keep it warm while put- 
ting on. 

Note. — To be primed first with lead-colored paint. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 391 



535.— COMPOSITION FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. II 

Forty-eight pounds of yellow ochre, eight pounds black paint, 
half pound soap, and three pints of fresh water. 



536.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. III. 

Half a pound of black paint, three pounds yellow ochre, half 
pound of soap, three-quarters of a gill of fresh water. 



537.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. IV. 

Eighty pounds black paint well ground, ten gallons linseed oil, 
ten pounds of beeswax, five pounds litharge, and one gallon of 
spirits of turpentine. For blacking bends, add two gallons of 
tar. 



538.— FOR MAKING BLACK- VARNISH, NO. II. 

One gallon of the spirits of turpentine, one pound and four 
ounces of rosin, one pound and four ounces lamp-black, and one 
quart of linseed oil ; to be boiled on a slow fire for half-an-hour, 
then used or laid on when cold. 



539.— SOLDER FOR COPPER. 

Nothing is necessary here, but good tough borax and brass, 
well mixed together with water, to the consistence of paste. 



392 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 



5 40.— SOLDER FOR LEAD. 

Take two parts of water-lead, and one part of tin ; its good- 
ness is tried by melting it, and pouring the size of a half dollar 
piece on a table ; then if it be good there will arise small, bright 
stars or beads on it. Apply rosin when you use it. 



541.— TO MAKE THE BEST DRYING OIL. 

Mix one pound of litharge of gold to every six gallons of oil ; 
boil it over a slow fire, but not too much, least it prove too thick, 
and be unserviceable. 



542.— FOR BLACK STAIN. 

Four ounces of copperas ; iron rust, or a few pieces of old iron 
noop ; one gallon of vinegar ; half pound lamp-black, and a small 
quantity of oak shavings. 



543.— BLACKING GUNS, SHOT, &c. 

Coal tar alone, or mixed with a little salt water, is a good 
thing for blacking guns and shot. It should be laid on quite 
warm, and if the day be cold, a hot shot may with advantage be 
put into the guns to warm the metal, and make it take the black- 
ing better, due attention being previously paid to unloading. 

Lay the stuff on as thin as possible, with paint-brushes, using 
hot loggerheads or bolts to keep it warm. 

If well laid on, and wiped afterwards with an oil-cloth oc- 
casionally, this process will prevent rust, and preserve the good 
look of the guns for a length of time, without having recourse to 
washing with water. 



OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 



393 



544.— FRENCH RECIPE FOR BLACKING GUNS, &c. 

To one gallon of vinegar, .put ten ounces of lamp-black, and 
one pound and a-half of clear sifted iron-rust, and mix them well 
together. 

Lay this on the guns after a good coat of black paint, and rub 
it occasionally with a soft oil-cloth. 




OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



From the Sailor's Magazine. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant : second edition, improved 
and enlarged with additional matter, illustrated' with seventy engravings, and 
tables, 8vo., pp. 420. By William Brady, Sailing Master, U. S. Navy; re- 
viewed by a Master Mariner. 

This is a work very much needed for the younger members of our profession, 
being the most complete thing of the kind that has ever been published. There 
is nothing of the smallest moment in use on board a man-of-war, or merchant- 
man, but it has illustrated in a plate, and its use or uses fully described. With 
singular faithfulness it details the whole minutiae of ship's duty, from the knot- 
ting of ropeyarns to splicing heavy cables and fitting standing rigging. It not 
only embraces all the particulars of the rigging work, but explains with equal 
clearness the various mechanical operations necessarily combined to fit out a first 
class ship. Here the novice may acquire a great deal by practising from the 
various plates and figures, while preparing for a nautical life ; besides, from its 
fullness on those subjects the most interesting to the young sailor, it will be calcu- 
lated to lead him to study his Manual, and thereby not entirely lose all relish for 
study, when first embarking in his ocean life, which has hitherto been so common 
and so disadvantageous to young men. There is no kind of duty on .ship-board 
but is here explained, and I conceive it the most valuable work not only for 
novices, but for every grade in our profession. There is a great deal of very 
useful information for all, however experienced they may be. Every kind of spar 
is described, with its relative proportions and use — the rules for which few men 
can carry in their minds. And it is quite important to know, in masting and 
sparring a ship, what are the principles which govern the usage of the day, even 
if we alter the proportions afterward to suit our own caprice or fancy. 

The author has clearly shown himself to be master of his business; he has 
described fully all the various parts of the ship's hull and spars — the different 
pieces of standing and running rigging, with the way to fit the one and how to 
cut and reeve the other. He teaches how to get the masts and yards on board, 
aloft, and rigged — he speaks of all with sufficient clearness, and at the same time 
does not unnecessarily multiply words. After rigging and sparring the ship, he 
bends the sails, after the most judicious plan in fitting out for sea, or when blown 
away or split in a storm — and after putting the ship to sea, as it were, he then, in 
a seamanlike manner, explains all the various evolutions through which a ship 
may be passed, and supposes almost every extremity to which a ship is liable, 
giving the modern, and I might add, profitably improved method of doing things : 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 395 

for it is well known, that during the last 30 years there have been very many 
and equally great improvements in the method of rigging as well as working sea- 
going ships. 

I observe the author explains, in such places as have been deemed necessary, 
the different methods in use on board heavy-armed ships and merchantmen, which 
makes the book the more valuable to both classes of the service. Mr. Brady has 
some capital and useful remarks on the subject of the barometer, some of which 
I found entirely new 1o myself, although having used one for the last twenty- 
years. But I conceive that his tables are very valuable even to shipmasters. In- 
stead of lumbering up this book with what in fact belongs to an epitome of navi- 
gation, as has been the practice generally hitherto, he has confined himself, strictly 
speaking, to only those subjects which would naturally occur to one as coming 
under the head of seamanship — or, in other words, he has compiled literally " a 
Sailor's Assistant." I confidently assert, I have never sedh the same amount of 
really useful and practical information in the same space adapted to our profes- 
sion before. Here we find enumerated for the various classes of vessels, according 
to their tonnage, the requisite number of anchors, cables, guns, carriages, shot, 
&c., with their size, weight, and the comparative strength of the cables and rig- 
ging both chain and hemp : also a variety of most useful intelligence, and which 
must have been elicited only after considerable practical experiment — all of the 
most interesting as well as useful importance, not only to the novice, but the 01- 
ficer — the master — and I would even confidently add, that there is a great deal o f 
information contained in this work which would make it a valuable acquisition 
to every ship-owner's counting-room. There is nothing put on board the various 
classes of ships, but is described in the book, first to tell how it is made, and how 
it is rigged — how it is taken on board (if heavy) — its weight, and the amount 
allowed according to the length of the cruise. Nothing is omitted. I conceive 
that every ship-owner would find it an acquisition as a counting-house compan- 
ion, as well as a " Young Sailor's Assistant." His recipes, which I find at the 
termination of the book, are not without their value ; and although simple in 
themselves, yet not generally known. 

I cannot close without saying a few words in relation to the very judicious re- 
marks he has made under the head of "good order" (merchant service) and 
cleanliness. It is undeniable that temperance and cleanliness would add much to 
the health, comfort, and good order of a crew; but it must be allowed that com- 
paratively little has been done for the sailor — much more must be done before he 
will be made to realize the terrible effects .of intemperance and licentiousness 
upon both body and soul, for time and eternity. It is cheering to see that spirits 
have been banished from the list of small stores on board of respectable Amer- 
ican ships : and we can but hope that, ere long, through the influence of the efforts 
that are being made, especially for seamen, among several denominations of 
Christians in this city — by their building handsome churches on shore and afloat 
— splendid Homes which are made to them homes indeed when they resort tc 
them — by their donations of books and libraries adapted to their characters and 
profession — that a few years will see them a different and vastly improved 
class of men. Already do we begin to see the influence of the leaven that has 
been cast among them, which leads us to the conviction that there is a better 



396 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

time coming for tAe sailor ; and we cannot but hope and trust that all ranks ol 
Christians will be diligent in prayer to God that " the abundance of the sea may- 
be speedily converted unto him." Finally, with the author I also think it entirely 
unnecessary for him to offer any apology in sending this work abroad to the pub- 
lic. If I may be allowed to offer an opinion on the merits of the composition or 
its style, I must say I have come to the conclusion, in the absence of any other 
guide but this book, being an utter stranger to the author, that he is — he must be 
— a seaman — a scholar — and a gentleman. I observe he professes, as his motto. 
" Hope for his anchor, and Heaven for his guide," and I fervently pray that nei- 
ther the one nor the other may ever fail him. 



From the Literary World. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By Wm. Brady, Sailing 
Master, U. S. N. Published by the Author. 

Nowadays, when all science, arts, and callings are delineated in books, and the 
pen is wielded by members of every profession, it is no marvel that an excellently 
planned work, upon all things pertaining to seamanship, should be presented to 
the public by a gentleman of the marline-spike. And albeit the author tells us 
that that instrument is to him more familiar than the pen, he has, nevertheless, 
shown himself quite expert with the latter. 

" The Kedge Anchor" (a happy title, at least to Jack) has already run through 
one edition, which, for a purely practical work, is the best evidence of its merits. 
The present edition is, in many respects, an improvement upon the former, con- 
taining additional matter, plates and tables. To a sailor this work is invalua- 
ble ; indeed, it is by far the best of the sort we ever remember to have seen. Gen- 
erally, works of this description are loosely and carelessly put together; to use a 
nautical phrase, they are by no means " ship-shape and Bristol fashion," and, in 
many cases, are mere servile copies, or abridgments of obsolete books on the 
same subject. The sailor-poet's (Falconer) Marine Dictionary, published many 
years ago, has been the source from which most of them have been compiled. 
But in seamanship, as in everything else, great improvements and changes have, 
from time to time, been effected, and Mr. Brady's volume contains them all. We 
cordially commend his book to all the purchasers of Bowditch's Navigation ; ana 
we will futhermore guaranty that he who masters both, will be fully qualified to 
conduct a vessel round the globe with unerring certainty — enter a harbor as un- 
exceptionably and gracefully as ever Brummel did a drawing-room, and cockbill 
his yards at a symmetrical angle. 

Not only to seamen, but to many landsmen, the " Kedge Anchor " cannot fail 
to be an acceptable volume. Its copious dictionary of sea terms, its excellent 
illustrations of nautical manoeuvres and the information imparted upon all things 
pertaining to the construction, rig, and appointment of the ships in our navy, 
make the book truly valuable. From the " gammoning" of a bowsprit, and the 
staying of a royal-mast, to the taking of a " bowline-in-the-bight," the student in 
tar will find all the information he can desire. 

The book is well got up, contains numerous well-executed cuts, and is alike 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



397 



creditable to author and publisher. We specially commend it to the members of 
the Yacht Club, as a vade mecum for blue water. 



From the New York Journal of Commerce. 
The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By William Brady, 
S. M., U. S. N. 

This work, as its title imports, is designed as an assistant for the young Sailor, 
through the various branches of his arduous profession. It contains useful in- 
structions in every department of seamanship, with ample directions, which will 
impart to the young officer a great deal of valuable information in the duties of 
his profession, and enable him to act in the most judicious manner in many try 
ing emergencies. 

In addition to many suggestions, which will prove valuable to every grade of 
seamen, it contains more thorough descriptions of the innumerable articles belong 
ing to the various classes of vessels, than any other work ever published in this 
country; and is embellished with over seventy engravings, in illustration of the 
subjects treated of in its pages. The work is furnished with over one hundred 
pages of tables, which are valuable not only to the sea-faring man, but to all who 
are in any way interested in maritime pursuits. The entire work is contained in a 
volume of 420 pages, octavo, stereotype edition. It is printed on fine paper, and 
bound in handsome style. For sale by R. L. Shaw, No. 222 Water street, N. Y. 



From the True Sun. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. 
We have had for several days lying on our table a massive octavo volume of 
some 420 pages, of which we have given the title. The author of it is William 
Brady, S. M., U. S. N., and it is on sale at the Sailor's Home, and by most of the 
nautical stationers. The whole science of seamanship appears to be included in 
this fine volume, from the coiling of a rope to the dissection of a man-of-war and 
every nautical appendage thereof. No jot or tittle of a seaman's duty appears to 
have been overlooked ; everything is explained, and the most intricate things 
illustrated by engravings. The entire typographical execution and material of the 
volume are excellent ; we do not find the price attached to it ; but to the seaman 
— to the young seaman particularly — it must be invaluable. 



From the New York Courier & Enquirer. 

The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant, <^c, <frc, illustrated with 
seventy engravings. By Wm. Brady, S. M. } U. S. N. 2d edition, enlarged and 
improved. New York. 

This is a handsome and no doubt a useful handbook for the young sailor or 
officer, explaining as it does, and illustrating by handsome cuts the various ma- 
nipulations of the Sailor's craft. ' 

The instruction comprehends the whole of the duties of the sailor, as well as 
regards the practical evolutions of the vessel, as the various details connected 
with rigging the vessel. 



398 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

The volume has already gone through one edition, which is presumptive evi- 
dence of its merits — and we dare say there will be ample demand for this second 
edition. 



From the Long Island Star. 
The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. 

We have just received the second edition of a very neat work, entitled " The 
Kedge Anchor," improved and enlarged, with additional matter, plates, and tables, 
by Mr. William Brady, and dedicated to the United States Navy and Merchant 
Service. 

It is very neatly bound and good print, and is intended to instruct " Young Sea- 
men" in rigging, knotting, splicing, blocks, purchases, and other miscellaneous 
matter applicable to vessels and ships of war. It is illustrated with seventy 
engravings, also a great number of Tables useful to seamen. It is also printed on 
beautiful paper, and it instructs you to build vessels of war. 

Published at New York by Mr. Wm. Brady, and sold at R. L. Shaw's Nautical 
Store, 222 Water street, N. Y. 

It is octavo size, 420 pages, and handsomely illustrated with fine wood-cuts, 
representing many of the most beautifully modeled vessels in the U. S. Navy. It 
is a work of much labor and expense, and should be in the possession of every 
seaman, more especially those of the Navy. A copy of the work may be seen at 
this office. 



From the New York Sunday Dispatch. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. 

The extraordinary demand for the above meritorious work has, in a very shop 
time, exhausted the first edition. 

The author, William Brady, a sailing master in the United States Navy, has 
published a second edition, with additional tables and somewhat improved iv 
typographical beauty. It is useless for us to speak of its merits as a text-book fo/ 
the young officer. It is most emphatically a work of great merit, and one whicfr 
will commend itself to all classes whose " march is o'er the mountain wave.'' 
The remarks it contains on that invaluable instrument the Barometer, are correct, 
and will do much to destroy the unfounded prejudice which some have against it 

The volume contains a great number of plates, neatly executed, which serve to 
illustrate with precision a variety of nautical evolutions. The precautions for 
scudding are worthy of attention. It is a well-known fact among sailors that many 
•a good ship has been boarded by a sea, while scudding under short sail, when the 
disaster might easily have been avoided by showing more canvas. The work 
contains all the tables necessary for sparring and rigging a ship, and that in so 
plain and practical a manner that we cannot see how it is possible for any one to 
make a mistake ; on the whole, we are inclined to think, that, though the author 
modestly calls it a Kedge Anchor, there is many an old salt who will look upon i 
as his best bower. 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 399 

Prom the New York Express. 

The Kedge Anchor. By William Brady, U. S. N. 
This is the title of a very handsome volume, professing to give thorough de- 
scriptions of the almost innumerable equipments belonging to the various classes 
of vessels. We are not " oM salt " enough to speak as to the accuracy of its 
teachings, but it seems to be very complete and intelligible ; and is illustrated with 
drawings of more ways of doing things than any but a sailor would ever dream of.' 



From the New York Tribune. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By William Brady, 5. 
M., U. S. N. New York : R. L. Shaw, 222 Water st., 1 vol. 8vo., pp. 420, with 
numerous engravings. 

This work, as its title imports, is designed as an assistant for the young Sailor 
through the various branches of his arduous profession. It contains useful in- 
structions in every department of seamanship, with ample directions, whicb will 
impart to the young officer a great deal of valuable information in the duties of 
his profession, and enable him to act in the most judicious manner in many trying 
emergencies. 

In addition to many suggestions-, which will prove valuable to every grade of 
seamen, it contains more thorough descriptions of the innumerable articles be- 
longing to the various classes of vessels than any other work ever published in 
this country ; and is embellished with over seventy engravings in illustration of 
the subjects treated of in its pages. The work is furnished with over one hun- 
dred pages of tables, which are valuable not only to the seafaring man but to all 
who are in any way interested in maritime pursuits. The entire work is con- 
tained in a volume of 420 pages, octavo stereotype edition. It is printed on fine 
paper and bound in handsome style. 



From the Brooklyn Daily Advertiser. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant — is the title of a work just 
published by William Brady, Sailing Master in the U. S. Navy. Mr. Brady is 
a thorough seaman and eminently qualified to the task he has here undertaken. 
Every information is given appertaining to the practical evolutions of modern 
seamanship-rigging, knotting, splicing, blocks, purchases, running rigging, and 
other miscellaneous matters, applicable to ships of war and others. Illustrated 
with several engravings. Also tables of rigging, spars, sails, blocks, canvas, 
cordage, chain and hemp-cables, hawsers, &c, relative to every class of vessels. 
To those who are about to become sailors, the Kedge Anchor is invaluable ; and 
those who have followed the sea, no matter how long, may derive information 
therefrom. It should be on board every vessel and in every library, as much may 
be found to interest even the landsman. The work meets the approval of the 
most able commanders in the merchant and naval service. The author is now 
attached to the Brooklyn Navy Yard, holding the appointment of Sailing Master, 
and is known as one of the best practiced seamen in the navy. 



400 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



From the New York Sun. 
The Kedgf. Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant, by Wm, Brady, of the 
U. S. Navy, is the most unique and useful book for young seamen we have any 
knowledge of. Published by the author. 



From the New York Herald. 
The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By Wm. Brady, S. M. } 
U. S. N., second edition. R. L. Shaw, 222 Water street. This is decidedly the 
best work for the maritime community, and the best adapted to convey perfect 
instruction to all who desire to learn the profession of seamanship, that we have 
ever seen. It has reached a second edition, and deserves to reach twenty, as it no 
doubt will. We shall have more to say respecting this valuable work ; and in 
the mean time it should find a place in every library and on board every ship. 



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